e2vincent

Hi All:

I fried the engine and replace the whol engine block. We were able to resolve all error codes except these P0172 and P0175. We changed all 4 Oxygen Sensor ($$$) and the error code still exists. I should've check the forum before doing that. :-(

Any advise on how to resolve this issue ?


V.

don5504

http://www.obd-codes.com/p0172
http://www.obd-codes.com/p0175

BTW those 2 codes represent each side of the engine aka each bank. So look for something that is both in common such as the MAF.

G'luck

D

BLACKURA_NY

iTrader: (6)

i used to pull those codes ALL THE TIME... on my 08 type-s in the winter.... for 2 main reason

1) winter fuel mixture can do that
2) having the car idle for an hour or so will throw that code....

Since it got warm out, i havent pulled the code ONCE... but once it gets cold out again, and i leave the engine idling while im in the car, im sure it will come on again... i wouldnt worry about in my opinion

e2vincent

It is so strange, after the TL being driven for a while, the error code went away. I figured the system got flush/cleanse after putting some good brand gasoline. Any other thoughts ?

BLACKURA_NY

iTrader: (6)

were you letting the engine idle? sitting in the car with the engine on for an extended period of time (45 minutes, 1 hours, etc)

e2vincent

So strange... I am sitting on a red light and the error code shows up again. This time is only P0172. Since it is a new engine, maybe it is a 'break in' period....

BLACKURA_NY

iTrader: (6)

you are using premium fuel right?

stillhere153

iTrader: (1)

sounds like bad cats to me... replace the entire motor but didnt swap cats?

Some_dude89

I initiall had code P0172 only.....(Bank 1 rich)
162,000 miles, 2004, bone stock.
I had some vibs/rough idle that wasn't horrendous, but not normal. It varied in magnitude from time to time. Didn't really notice anything else and car ran seemingly perfect >2000 RPM. Power seemed ok, fuel economy was normal. One day it got a bit rougher at idle, and complained when pulling away from a stop (pretty rough running, some knocking but still fine >2000 RPM. Drove home (600 miles) and it was fine on the highway, gas mileage was still fine. Changed fuel brands, and it seemed to improve the idle a little, and eliminated the knocking when pulling away from a stop. Took about 300 miles from first symptom to throw the P0172 (no other codes). I thought that the exhaust tone sounded lower in frequncy and a bit louder at idle and below 2000 rpm, with a little bit of 'potao potato' sound. Check air filter (clean) and ODBII live data - noticed the bank 1 fuel trim was -27% at idle. Fuel trim improved (reduced to -10 ish when on highway). The bank 1 EQ ratio (should be 1.000 when stoichiometric) would fluctuate above and below 1, very similar to bank 2, and the upstream o2 sensors seemed to fluctuate similarly. At idle, the bank 1 downstream 02 sensor would show .8 ish which is very rich and the Bank 2 downstream 02 would fluctuate too, but seemed to hover near .5 volts at idle. I errantly replaced the Bank 1 downstream sensor before I had done much research...no change. I searched for vaccum leaks and didn't discover any, checked the vaccumm which was very steady and in the green on my guage. I then did a valve adjustment because it was never done and lots of other folks mentioned it for these symptoms. No change. I tried a couple of fuel system treatments (techron, then BG44k). This seemed to provide a smoother idle, a little, and only intermittantly. Leaky injector(s) is another possibility for rich codes, but the exhaust didn't smell rich and I had the same fuel economy, and no difficulty with warm starts.
In all I was scrathing my head for a couple months, still driving it everyday, trying to convince myself it was getting a little better in terms of smoother (but never nomal) idle. Yet the negative fuel trim was allway there at -27 at idle. I also got all the misfire codes a couple times (each individual cylinder and the 'random' one. Twice, when it was raining, I saw the MIL blink indicating misfire during an idle after startup, but the engine didn't run any differently at all when it was blinking. It still had the same relatively mild vibs/rough idle it had been having all along. One day I wondered if the timing belt might have slipped and consulted a buddy and we both thought that it should run much worse if that were the case. I set the crank to TDC and inspected the peep ports on both cam shaft covers an found the rear (bank 1) cam was off (late) by maybe a quarter or 3/8 of an inch using the timing cover mark. So I ordered the timing belt kit thinking maybe the adjuster gave up the ghost. When I got it apart I found the rear cam off by 2 teeth. I still think thats amazing. I also found signs of a water pump leak. Only a hint of coolant, (the rest was dried evidence) This leak worsened considerably after I removed the engine mount mount bracket that surrounds the water pump.
The belt had no damage, the tensioner and the idler/adjuster pullys all looked good. I had done the TB replacement with a kit (not honda parts, probably advance or autozone) about 60,000 miles earlier, and it ran like a top until these symptoms. After another kit replacement it's idling like new, so well its actually really hard to tell the car is running when at idle.
exhaust sound is back to normal.
Hope this helps someone else that's had a hard time....