I Need new ignition Coils for my 2005 TL, the dealer is charging 480 for 6 new OEM coils. Will off market coils work just as well and last as long as the OEM part, I feel like 480 really expensive for ignition coils.

 

Not sure there are aftermarket coils. 480 isn't bad considering the price here: http://www.oemacuraparts.com/parts-c...oil-spark-plug

Edit: wait a second, they're replacing all of the coil packs as a result of a misfire? Does this seem strange to anyone else? Which/how many cylinders are misfiring?

 

I bought mine for about $40-$50 bucks each at advance auto. Comes with lifetime warranty and it's way too easy to install, you just need an allen key.

 

I also agree that all 6 coils should not go bad all at the same time like that

 

Seems strange to me, they should not all have failed at the same time. Likely only 1 needs to be replaced in most cases. ~$50 for one + Tax and a little time to install.

 

Well I had 3 cylinders Fail n misfire, my personal mechanic recommended getting a whole new set of 6 spark plugs and 6 ignition coils. So thats why i was looking to buy 6

 

6mt or auto transmission?

 

6mt

 

3 coil packs going bad at once is awfully suspicious.

Is this a new to you vehicle? It's possible someone missed a shift and the issue is not the coil packs.

 

yea I just got the car, the check engine light came on while I was speeding one day and when the mechanic checked the codes I got multiple misfires.. P0305, 301, 303

 

sounds like an over rev condition

 

any other noise?

CEL's/Codes?

I concur that 3 packs should no go bad at the same time...

 

This isn't what you want to hear, but the problem is likely internal engine damage the previous owner is aware of.

You have 6 coil packs, so you can swap the 3 good ones for the bad ones and clear the code. When the CEL comes back, if its the same cylinders, you would be wasting your money putting new ones in the car.
If you do indeed have 3 bad coil packs, I would personally replace all 6. They take just a few minutes to swap, you just need a hex key.

Do a leak down test.

 

^ This. Swap the coil packs and clear the codes first to prove that they aren't the issue. If the misfires follow the packs, replace. If they stay the same, leak down test.

 

Thanks I'm definitely going to do a Leak down test ASAP, since you say you would also just replace all 6 ( that was my original plan) would you only buy OEM Coil packs or would you trust off market coils. I found the OEM coils for 450 including shipping but I also found them for 180.


This is the Amazon coils i found for 160...
Thanks for all the help i really appreciate it

 

No, don't replace any of the coil packs yet. As many have already tried to tell you, it's highly unlikely that the misfires are caused by bad plugs or coils.

Multiple misfires on a 6MT: sorry dude, most likely over rev...

And exactly what do you mean by this statement, "... while I was speeding one day..."?

Edit: There is a chance the misfire codes were caused by ECM firmware that needs to be updated (heavy acceleration into VTEC). I believe the issue is known in both '04 and '05 TL's. Check the TSB page...

Edit2: Nope, looks like just the '04. TSB 03-033....

 

first and foremost clear the codes without replacement of the coil packs and see what codes come back. then proceed from there

 

I did that a couple of weeks ago, and as soon as speed and rev the engine the codes came back

 

What I meant by "I was speeding one day" was, The check engine light came on one day while I was speeding on the highway. When I took the car to the Mechanic to see why the light came on I was told I was 3 misfire codes. My mechanic cleared the codes and the next time I was speeding in the car. The check engine light came back on.

 

^^^^ That's not a good sign, sorry to say. If you didn't over rev it, then you got screwed by the previous owner....

 

Bent valves

 

Valves bend that easy?

 

Yes, mechanically force the engine to spin faster than it was intended and the valves can get out of control, smacking into a piston.

This is the case with most any interference engine, irrespective of the redline. Go 10-20% above it and you're asking for trouble.

Just for clarification, this most often happens when someone is accelerating at high RPM, and aims for a higher gear, but gets a lower gear. Downshifting from 3rd at redline into 2nd does not make for a happy engine.

 

yes, if you over-rev the car.

automatics dont have this problem, because the computer controls the shifts.

on a 6MT, driver error is very possible.
mis-shifting from 5 to 2, will destroy valves.

 

Define speeding. The only time I see speeding as an issue is a downshift to a lower gear at speeds well above its rev limit. The ECU wont allow you to accelerate above it.

 

being that it is a mechanical error, the ECU has no control and will fuck shit up

 

So your telling me the 6mt has no rev limiter.

 

on up shifts, yes.

on down shifts, you better not fuck up.
its very easy to go from 5 to 4, but accidentally put it into 2nd gear....
driver error.

 

Well all due respect.. My post said "accelerate past it" He says speeding ... Was trying to get him to define it .
If he says he dumped it down a couple gears in error that tells one story... If he was just going 100 mph .. That rules out an over rev.

 

It's very possible the OP could have done it, but without further clarification....

what about the previous owner?
the valves could have been bent slightly, taking a while for the symptoms to show up.

my friend over-revved and bent some valves, he didnt start to loose compression till like 3 or 4 months later, when the engine codes started tripping.
lost two cylinders and his car sounded like a subaru.

 

Way to go Justin...expect Supraru to chime in now!

 

anyways, until the OP gets a leak down test, we're just speculating

 

I missed an upshift from 2nd to 3rd in a 67 Olds 442 that I had...toasted that friggin motor in a heartbeat. Threw a rod. Man did that suck.

 

WOW I didnt know that....

I thought whether* Auto or Manual, it has a hard fuel cut off which wont let you rev the engine past a certain point....

so if you drop from 5th to 2nd...you will be able to complete the shift and mess things up, but wont mess it uppp toooo much since the fuel will be cut off past a certain point (I thought it was 7000 rpm)....

well even then, the minute you leave the clutch, you have already messed up the valves but it still protects you from messing up the crankshaft...

 

In my experience when you bend a valve it doesn't seat from the time it happens .

 

I was accelerating is probably the better term than speeding. I was on the highway and was accelerating from 3rd to 4th Idk the exact speed but i was around 6500 rpm when the light came on

 

did you go to 4th or 2nd

 

I think it's a long shot, but have your dealer check if your ECM firmware is fully updated....

and 6500 RPM in 3rd.... what is that in MPH, 85-90?

 

4th ofcourse, i was upshifting

 

give or take, about that .