Hi All:
2007 TL Type S, 66000 miles, 6MT. The only mod is a Injen CAI.

Something strange has started occurring, and I will try to describe it as best I can. Driving in 3rd gear at around 3200 RPM, hit the gas, RPM jumps to around 3750 for a second or two, then settles back to around 3500 RPM and the car powers forward. Does not happen in 1st or 2nd, only 3rd and 4th. It almost feels like the clutch slips for a second and re-engages. Otherwise, clutch feels fine and car shifts fine as well.

I am having the clutch fluid flushed and replaced, but not sure if that is the issue.

Any thoughts?

Thanks

 

it might be beginning to slip.

 

Since it only happens in very specific instances, is it OK to keep track of it or is it advisable to get it fixed ASAP? Really is not noticeable in normal conditions or freeway driving.

 

when the the clutch starts to slip, it will happen in the higher gears first.

I noticed mine slipping in 5th gear.
the rpms would raise but speed would not.


However, you say there's a jolt in power and then resumes....hmmm

 

That's because it is. What else would slip? My money's on you are instinctively backing off the throttle when the slip occurs. Maybe not by much but it won't take much throttle lift off to get the clutch to grab again.

As for bleeding the clutch? That usually helps when you have "too much" clutch. You have the opposite "not enough" clutch going on.

 

Thanks for all the responses - looks like a clutch replacement is in order here . I am in the Torrance area, can anyone recommend a good independent Honda/Acura shop to get this done? I think the parts are around a $1000 (incl OEM flywheel) so what should labor be?

Thanks to you all for the feedback

 

ah torrance, a little too far for my go-to shop of choice in pasadena. Fuji Auto specialize in japanese cars and my family have been going to them for years. Ive had no issues with them and they're very friendly, willing to help me break my crank bolt loose for my timing belt DIY.

i agree with the statements above, the clutch is worn and will need replacing. Bleeding fluid and what not wont make a difference since that has nothing to do with the clutch in the fully engaged position. At that point its just the SAC pressure plate, and clutch disk
the clutch will eventually "catch" in 3rd much like starting off in 1st gear. the transmission will eventually speed up fast enough so the two are locked.

 

So I took it to a independent shop today, and he checked it out - clutch is just fine, its the clutch master cylinder and or the clutch slave cylinder. Saved me some $. I have an extended warranty, would these parts be covered or will they call the wear and tear?

Thanks

 

i'd imagine they'd be covered.

Kinda doubt the MC/SC diagnosis, but then again i havent seen the car myself. Unless he saw that one or the other was leaking and somehow the clutch engagement is even more delayed because of it.

 

Time for me to replace my clutch too. Same symptoms. I figured since it lasted me 180K miles and 9½ years, I did OK.

Got the LUK kit coming from rockauto today.
.
.

 

Same problem at 92k miles. At high >3.2k RPM in 3rd gear clutch slips. I checked the fluid reservoir and it was just a mm under the low line, so topped it off tonight and hope the lack of hydraulic pressure caused the problem. Based on the threads above, I doubt this will help.

 

yeah, what holds the clutch and flywheel together is the pressure plate. If there's slip then clutch or PP to blame. Unless you push the clutch pedal they're sandwiched together tightly (as tight as the PP can).

MC/SC work together to pull them apart, nothing more.

something for OP to try, shift into 3rd early, wait a little (in case the MC/SC somehow delay full engagement) then go WOT or jab the throttle. If the RPMs rise with little to no change in road speed or there is a discrepancy between the two then you definitely have a worn clutch or bad PP. However, a bad or weak PP usually results in a light pedal action (at least in the cable actuated clutch days).

typical symptoms of a bad MC/SC is a limp pedal, pedal doesnt return to position, hard shifting, leaking fluid, etc.

 

I took the car to an independent Acura mechanic. He test drove it, did a clutch slip test (released clutch with handbrake engaged etc) and determined that the clutch was fine, and it was a faulty MC and slave cylinder.

Since the car is under warranty, I took it to the dealer. Same diagnosis, clutch is fine, but faulty MC. No fault in the slave cylinder per the dealer, so it was not replaced. They replaced the master cylinder only, and the clutch movement/smoothness is so much better, but the symptoms remain. Driving in 3rd gear at 30 mph, step on the throttle, RPM jumps, car speed increases in 1-2 seconds.

Could this be caused by a faulty slave cylinder? I really don't know what a slave cylinder does, so any help is appreciated.

 

^thats a slipping clutch lol .

 

would be funny if it was the clutch the whole time..

 

it'll happen in the higher gears initially.
so, when they performed a "test" it was most likely in 1st gear with the least amount of slippage.
if you have any hills, driving up one in 3rd or higher gear will help present the slipping clutch even more so.

we have a hydraulic dual mass fly wheel that "self-adjust" so, you dont know if its slipping until the end of its life..

 

Thanks to everyone for all the help...I think he answer is clear - new clutch as oon as possible, to save the flywheel. I want to go with all OEM parts - is that the best option or any other options are better. We live in an area that is hilly, with several stop signs.