So back on November of last year, I bought my first TL-S from a member here, MRP with only 86k miles. Sold it my my cousin a few months after.
Car now has 96k miles, all of a sudden, it is burning oil and coolant. Car was not used for about a month during winter, upon starting it up, lots of smoke and engine was sputtering, so I shut it down and put fresh gas on it, and started back up, cleared the codes for random misfire. And all is fine now, except car is burning so much oil now, about 1 quart every 500 miles, coolant is also low every 500 miles.

Pulled 6 spark plugs, and cylinder number 4 showing oil burning, it is very obvious, in fact I think another 500-1000 miles, the plugs would foul out. I went to Paul from NJ Mechanic, he did a compression test and all cylinders were fine, all is registering the same psi, but it was kind of inconclusive, he said to bring it to Acura to a 2nd opinion before putting another engine in there. Can anyone help me on how to do a compression test on how to disable fuel? I tried doing it but the injectors are spraying fuel and I can smell it. I tried pulling fuses under the steering wheel and also under the hood, still not able to disable fuel.

Thanks in advance.

 

Fuse #8 in the under hood fuse box...

If that doesn't work, just call Paul and ask him. If you have access to an HDS, there is a command that it can send to the ECM/PCM to shut off the injectors.

 

Thanks for the response, tried Fuse #8 and the injectors still spraying fuel. When Paul did the compression test, he was not able to figure out how to disable it either, we went ahead with the test without disabling the injectors. I might have to just go in and take the plenum off and unplug the wire harness of the injectors.

Can anyone chime in on what to do with this car? it's 07 TL-S with 95k miles, transmission is still strong, car is stock and never been modified so everything from brakes, suspension, interior is still very good. Is getting another engine the least costly? I am tempted to bring it to Acura dealer for a diagnostic but I am sure it will cost a lot for diagnostic, they will probably do compression and leak down test and will say in the end that the engine is toast. I am very disappointed as I know thithese motors are strong, maybe something happened to this car that I did not know of or maintenance was not great by previous owners. Even now that it is burning oil, idle is smooth and I can drive the car like it has no misfire or whatsoever, but when I pull plug #4, it shows the oil deposit.

 

Hey, so to me if it ran fine before sitting then afterwards it's now got an issue... good odds imo is like a stuck oil ring perhaps. At that, I my self have had really good luck with sea foam. dump the whole thing in with your oil and run it. next, Do the UPPER engine/INTAKE cleaner from sea foam, you spray it in the intake, need 2 people, 1 to spray and 1 to barely keep the car running from stalling. once can is about empty you let the car stall on its own, if it wont then you will want to shut it off, let sit for a half hour. then drive the hell out of it. My brother had a type S that burned oil. after doing both those it stopped!

next up the coolant issue. when the engine is completely cold, open your hood, feel your rad hose, then fire up the car, feel the rad hose, It really should'nt develop pressure, and definitely not right away, so that's a tell tale of a head gasket. If its fine, then good odds by chance and I do hope for you, that its leaking out say from the water pump, the seal can get stiff perhaps from sitting and its weeping now.

 

Yes, it was sitting for maybe 4-5 weeks and it was very low on gas when my cousin left it with me when he was deployed to Germany. What are symptoms of stuck piston oil rings vs worn out piston rings? Does a stuck ring or worn rings cause coolant consumption as well?

I have been checking the dipstick, and it is clear and coolant and oil are not mixing as far as I can tell from the dipstick. I checked my radiator cap and I also do not see any "milkshake" "latte" stuff as well as the coolant reservoir, so what are the other possible way the coolant is going? Can it go directly out the combustion chamber without mixing in with motor oil?

 

Doh, try pulling BOTH #8 AND #19 in the under hood fuse box.

May need to also pull #19 (fuel pump) in the under dash fuse box, but I don't think so.

Instead of or in addition to the fuses, you could try disconnecting 21, 27-31 of connector E of the ECM/PCM. Those connections drive the 6 injectors.

Pp 11-13 through 11-33 of the service manual.

 

Borrow a coolant pressure tester from AZ and check coolant for any leaks. Pump it up and let it sit, when pressure drops pump again.
There's a fuel pump relay behind the left kick panel, but would think the #19 fuse should work.
Also, if problem with oil control ring or valve seal, the compression could still be excellent and a leak down test won't reveal worn or stuck oil rings.

 

Appreciate the input guys, so if we go the engine swap route, I will let Paul from NJ do it, where to buy a used engine for the type S? I saw one on CL for around $850 . Is there a website where all they sell are used engines like a junk shop?

 

$850 is a great price for the 3.5 engine if it has low miles and can be proven to be good.
Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market has many listed, however, the prices aren't so appealing.

 

I found this guy who said he has 3 engines for the type s , about 1.5hrs from me in freehold, nj. I just hope his engines are not damaged.

https://newyork.craigslist.org/jsy/p...263045461.html

 

If you check craig's list, ny via phone number, you'll see he has what I might call a salvage yard as many parts available. One is a 6 speed Type S.
https://newyork.craigslist.org/searc...-8237&sort=rel

 

Oh, did not thought about this, thanks. Looks like this is the way to go for me, instead of tearing the motor down, doing an engine swap is more economical. Thanks for the input.