Clutch tightened up!!
05-25-2011, 10:54 AM
#1
UA6mt NBP
Thread Starter
Clutch tightened up!!
i just had an underdrive pulley installed and im sure this has nothing to do with it but ever since then it seems like my clutch pedal got more stiff and harder to push down.....any ideas?
07-15-2011, 08:28 AM
#3
UA6mt NBP
Thread Starter
no it actually did it this morning and its a beautiful day if i take off aggressivley and go through the first 4 gears aggressivley the clutch get tight to push in 3rd and 4th. Anyone else ever experience this?
07-15-2011, 08:31 AM
#4
yes. After a hard RPM run, my clutch pedal did get stiff.
I changed out my clutch and problem solved.
either, your pressure plate or flywheel is worn.
My pressure plate had a lot of heat scores, didnt get a chance to measure it..but it def. looked abused.
I changed out my clutch and problem solved.
either, your pressure plate or flywheel is worn.
My pressure plate had a lot of heat scores, didnt get a chance to measure it..but it def. looked abused.
07-15-2011, 08:33 AM
#5
This is what our resident MT guru had to say about my situation:
First, let me try to answer your questions up front.
The "wear mark" on the pressure plate contact surface appears to be a bit of scoring. Assuming the car is not being raced, the prime cause would be improper techniques such as over-revving and riding the clutch, hold the car on a hill with the clutch, and improper downshifting especially into lower gears at high engine speeds. But aggressive driving, such as racing, would be first up.
The small mark on the rim... I don't know where that may have come from. The close up of the end of a pressure plate finger looks like it has been broken off.
Some other members have complained about their clutches being stiff after a run through the gears or after a race. It almost always occurs after high RPM shifts and like you said, goes away after the clutch pedal has been pumped a few times. I have never had this happen to me but my guess is that it is primarily due to the clutch delay valve causing a pressure buildup. I seem to remember reading that when this valve is removed, the problem disappears.
The clutch delay valve is supposed to protect the drive train from the shock of quick and/or aggressive shift by controlling the speed at which full engagement is obtained under these operating conditions. You will note that your friction disk has no torque dissapation springs arrayed around the center splined hug as you would expect to see. This is a solid friction disk. So shock, chattering, and shutter is controlled by the delay valve and the dual mass flywheel, not the friction disk which is generally the case. When making hard shifts at high RPMs in the higher gears, this delay value will slow full engagement enough to create some slip. So this a lot and you wear the disk and get scoring.
I would be a little concerned if your initial engagement point is higher than the factory spec. If you have a new factory OEM clutch and pressure plate then your pressure plate is self-adjusting. And the flywheel is a dual mass unit. If the initial engagement point is too high, it is quite possible that your release bearing may have a constant force being applied to it. This will prematurely wear the bearing.... kinda like resting your foot on the clutch pedal when driving. Check your clutch pedal free play (also called toe play). The factory spec for this is between .39 and .71 inches. Make sure there is sufficient free play.
As for taking it easy for the first 500 miles with a new clutch, this is not really necessary. You can just drive normally from day one if you wish, however I would go with some common sense carefulness for a bit.
Paul
Originally Posted by SouthernBoy
Originally Posted by justnspace
Southernboy,
I know you would appreciate my info and pictures. It's a 2006 with 39,000 miles on her. I bought the car in February and I am the second owner. A combination of the previous owner not know how to properly drive, test drivers, and from me learning how to drive the car.
I came from a Dodge Ram 6 cylinder 5M/T. 150,00 miles. 2nd owner. owned for 3 years.
I learned by just getting into the drivers seat. So, a bunch of bad habits.
Once I started to look for a sports sedan, specifically G35's, I read on forums the mistakes I was making.
I picked up my car, and it took me 3 months to learn the clutch. it was so hard. the engagement point was VERY low compared to the dodge I had. I had trouble finding the sweet spot. I've owned the car for 9 months now and these are the symptoms that it displayed:
- After high RPM runs, clutch would get stiff. it would take a couple of pumps of the clutch to feel normal. After I came to a complete stop, 1st gear had very inconsistent clutch pedal play. always notchy.
- High RPM runs into 5th and 6th. they would slip.
- Driving normal, up to temperature.Sometimes, from a stop I would Over-Rev 1st gear. Felt like it wasn't grabbing. I over-rev'd more-so when I felt rushed.
On wed. I found a shop who would change the clutch for $400, including fly wheel resurfacing. I had previously bought a new clutch set months ago, because of the symptoms.
total came out to be $470.xx because they bought a new gasket. the rear main seal? They also had to buy the measuring tool which was 10 bucks.
Without further adieu....
Now, my main reason for PM'ing you. I want to learn how to drive properly. What causes the wear marks that I indicated in my pictures? What causes the stiff clutch?
I've re-read over your how-to's and I'm taking the clutch easy for the first 500 miles. This means that I don't know if the stiff clutch is resolved.
But from what I noticed upon first impression.
- The clutch is grabbing higher. I enjoy this engagement height.
- I don't as easily over-rev at 1st gear from a complete stop...due to it grabbing.
Thanks for taking the time to read, and I look forward for your insight.
-Justin Myers
I know you would appreciate my info and pictures. It's a 2006 with 39,000 miles on her. I bought the car in February and I am the second owner. A combination of the previous owner not know how to properly drive, test drivers, and from me learning how to drive the car.
I came from a Dodge Ram 6 cylinder 5M/T. 150,00 miles. 2nd owner. owned for 3 years.
I learned by just getting into the drivers seat. So, a bunch of bad habits.
Once I started to look for a sports sedan, specifically G35's, I read on forums the mistakes I was making.
I picked up my car, and it took me 3 months to learn the clutch. it was so hard. the engagement point was VERY low compared to the dodge I had. I had trouble finding the sweet spot. I've owned the car for 9 months now and these are the symptoms that it displayed:
- After high RPM runs, clutch would get stiff. it would take a couple of pumps of the clutch to feel normal. After I came to a complete stop, 1st gear had very inconsistent clutch pedal play. always notchy.
- High RPM runs into 5th and 6th. they would slip.
- Driving normal, up to temperature.Sometimes, from a stop I would Over-Rev 1st gear. Felt like it wasn't grabbing. I over-rev'd more-so when I felt rushed.
On wed. I found a shop who would change the clutch for $400, including fly wheel resurfacing. I had previously bought a new clutch set months ago, because of the symptoms.
total came out to be $470.xx because they bought a new gasket. the rear main seal? They also had to buy the measuring tool which was 10 bucks.
Without further adieu....
Now, my main reason for PM'ing you. I want to learn how to drive properly. What causes the wear marks that I indicated in my pictures? What causes the stiff clutch?
I've re-read over your how-to's and I'm taking the clutch easy for the first 500 miles. This means that I don't know if the stiff clutch is resolved.
But from what I noticed upon first impression.
- The clutch is grabbing higher. I enjoy this engagement height.
- I don't as easily over-rev at 1st gear from a complete stop...due to it grabbing.
Thanks for taking the time to read, and I look forward for your insight.
-Justin Myers
The "wear mark" on the pressure plate contact surface appears to be a bit of scoring. Assuming the car is not being raced, the prime cause would be improper techniques such as over-revving and riding the clutch, hold the car on a hill with the clutch, and improper downshifting especially into lower gears at high engine speeds. But aggressive driving, such as racing, would be first up.
The small mark on the rim... I don't know where that may have come from. The close up of the end of a pressure plate finger looks like it has been broken off.
Some other members have complained about their clutches being stiff after a run through the gears or after a race. It almost always occurs after high RPM shifts and like you said, goes away after the clutch pedal has been pumped a few times. I have never had this happen to me but my guess is that it is primarily due to the clutch delay valve causing a pressure buildup. I seem to remember reading that when this valve is removed, the problem disappears.
The clutch delay valve is supposed to protect the drive train from the shock of quick and/or aggressive shift by controlling the speed at which full engagement is obtained under these operating conditions. You will note that your friction disk has no torque dissapation springs arrayed around the center splined hug as you would expect to see. This is a solid friction disk. So shock, chattering, and shutter is controlled by the delay valve and the dual mass flywheel, not the friction disk which is generally the case. When making hard shifts at high RPMs in the higher gears, this delay value will slow full engagement enough to create some slip. So this a lot and you wear the disk and get scoring.
I would be a little concerned if your initial engagement point is higher than the factory spec. If you have a new factory OEM clutch and pressure plate then your pressure plate is self-adjusting. And the flywheel is a dual mass unit. If the initial engagement point is too high, it is quite possible that your release bearing may have a constant force being applied to it. This will prematurely wear the bearing.... kinda like resting your foot on the clutch pedal when driving. Check your clutch pedal free play (also called toe play). The factory spec for this is between .39 and .71 inches. Make sure there is sufficient free play.
As for taking it easy for the first 500 miles with a new clutch, this is not really necessary. You can just drive normally from day one if you wish, however I would go with some common sense carefulness for a bit.
Paul
07-15-2011, 03:21 PM
#6
UA6mt NBP
Thread Starter
damn i really wasnt tryin to put a new clutch and pressure plate in but if needed ill do so. after the high rpm run i dont have to pump the clutch though the pedel goes right back to normal after i get off the pedel and into lower rpms its just at the inital engage where it gets stiff
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