Clutch issue
08-16-2018, 09:28 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Clutch issue
Have a 2007 TL type S, 6 speed mt, 230k miles. Original owner, still runs flawlessly and by far the best car I’ve ever owned.
the last couple weeks have noticed that the clutch has been inconsistent in how it’s engaging. Sometimes close to the floor, sometimes night and sometimes right in the middle like it’s always been. Also noticed a clicking that appears to be coming from the linkage. No slipping or problems getting into gears.
Took it to my mechanic and he told me that there were no adjustments to be made. Only option would be to replace the entire clutch, which I’m not convinced it needs.
Any thoughts or suggestions?
thanks (in advance)
the last couple weeks have noticed that the clutch has been inconsistent in how it’s engaging. Sometimes close to the floor, sometimes night and sometimes right in the middle like it’s always been. Also noticed a clicking that appears to be coming from the linkage. No slipping or problems getting into gears.
Took it to my mechanic and he told me that there were no adjustments to be made. Only option would be to replace the entire clutch, which I’m not convinced it needs.
Any thoughts or suggestions?
thanks (in advance)
08-17-2018, 09:44 AM
#2
Inconsistent clutch engagement heights is usually a hydraulic problem, whether it's air in the lines, faulty/failing master and/or slave cylinders, or something else related to those components. Easiest (and cheapest) solution to try first is bleeding the system, see if there's any air in the system. 230K on ALL original clutch components?? Not bad at all!!
Also clicking noises, especially while turning, is indicative of failing CV joints.
Also clicking noises, especially while turning, is indicative of failing CV joints.
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emas (08-17-2018)
08-17-2018, 09:17 PM
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thanks for the suggestion. Will try that .
wasn't clear on the clicking .... its occurring intermittently when depressing the clutch.
wasn't clear on the clicking .... its occurring intermittently when depressing the clutch.
08-18-2018, 09:32 PM
#4
Oops I didn't see you said the clicking was when depressing the clutch, my bad. That's def a sign of a failing master cylinder, I'd def start by replacing that first, and you should always replace the master and slave in pairs.
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emas (08-19-2018)
08-20-2018, 02:34 AM
#5
The clicking is not a failing MC. It's a common problem due to a slight difference in the rod length. It comes and goes. MC failure is if there's a leak.
The inconsistency in pedal could be the clutch delay valve. If it happens after high rpm shift, I think it's the self adjusting mechanism.
The inconsistency in pedal could be the clutch delay valve. If it happens after high rpm shift, I think it's the self adjusting mechanism.
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emas (09-02-2018)
09-02-2018, 06:30 PM
#6
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thank you for the advice. I changed the fluid and bled the system last and for the most part the problem seems to have gone away. Had a couple of instances, and hoping that it was just some air bubbles working their way through. Taking a coulple trips in the next week and will know for sure.
Thanks again,
Thanks again,
09-08-2018, 09:16 PM
#7
Instructor
Thread Starter
Problem has not gone away. Not occurring as much, and seems to connected to higher temperatures, 90 degrees +. Somewhere between 1/50 to 1/100 times i depress the clutch the engagement varies to very high or low. Also, have to double clutch, much less frequently, because not going into gear.
What is involved with replacing master and slave??? Parts? Think it would be beyond my mechanical capability.... what would I be looking at for costs?
What is involved with replacing master and slave??? Parts? Think it would be beyond my mechanical capability.... what would I be looking at for costs?
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09-09-2018, 02:16 AM
#8
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Problem has not gone away. Not occurring as much, and seems to connected to higher temperatures, 90 degrees +. Somewhere between 1/50 to 1/100 times i depress the clutch the engagement varies to very high or low. Also, have to double clutch, much less frequently, because not going into gear.
What is involved with replacing master and slave??? Parts? Think it would be beyond my mechanical capability.... what would I be looking at for costs?
What is involved with replacing master and slave??? Parts? Think it would be beyond my mechanical capability.... what would I be looking at for costs?
My own 2006 Acura TL has 215k has the original master and slave and has the same symptoms your Type S but haven’t had the time to replace those parts because I as well insist it isn’t my clutch. And I’m about 100% sure it’s those parts because sometimes my clutch pedal sticks to the floor. This as well has all original clutch and clutch components.
Last edited by MadeYouReadThis; 09-09-2018 at 02:19 AM.
09-09-2018, 11:32 AM
#9
Head a da Family
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The master cylinder is a royal Pain in the Ass! It took Paul, our star master mechanic here in Northern NJ almost 4 hours!
And BTW, I'm at 292K miles now, and she still flies!
.
.
09-12-2018, 05:38 AM
#10
I've done the master cylinder 3 times now.
first time about 3 hours (most of the times taking the heavy duty plastic ties off the metal line)
second and third time about an hour. Add 30 mins to bleed.
first time about 3 hours (most of the times taking the heavy duty plastic ties off the metal line)
second and third time about an hour. Add 30 mins to bleed.
10-07-2018, 07:49 PM
#11
Instructor
Thread Starter
Turned out to be the clutch. The engagement height variable was due to excessive wear on the plate. Just started to slip and had the clutch replaced. Working perfectly now.
thank you all for the great advice.
thank you all for the great advice.
10-08-2018, 12:08 AM
#12
Racer
did you replace the flywheel as well? It's usually a good idea to do both together.
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DMZ (10-09-2018)
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