99vtecaccord

iTrader: (8)

i've notice everytime i get near redline in 2nd gear or 3rd, my clutch gets really stiff. It gets much stiffer than usually only for a few seconds... than returns back to normal when driving normal.

Is this a common thing in TLs? Has anybody else experienced this?

My car is an 04 TL w/ 43k..

SouthernBoy

I suspect what you are describing is due to centrifical force. It this is the case, then it's normal.

phee

iTrader: (5)

my clutch does the same but...

after I have been driving spiritedly (fast shifting) I notice that the clutch pedal gets very stiff even at cruising speed. it takes a few more slow shifts to return to normal.

could Air in the lines be the culprit?

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

My car has developed this as well. After some hard driving the clutch pedal feels VERY hard. after I pump it a few times, the feeling goes back to normal.
I read and read and read and read and read and read and read.
with all that reading, I found that some just replaced their clutch and the problem/feeling went away. Southern boy, correct if i'm wrong...but I suspect it to be the pressure plate being worn/and or worn throw out bearing. or a combination of both.

I bought a clutch set from acuraoemparts.com for $250.00. Part # 22105-PGE-315
will install at a friends shop for another 250.00, after I teach my girliefriend how to drive stick.
I'll update this thread when I do change it out.

SouthernBoy

I don't believe a worn pressure plate or release bearing would cause a really stiff or "hard" clutch pedal. I would have to imagine with our TL's, that the hydraulic control system is the culprit. Since I have not experienced this problem, I have no point of reference and will have to defer to those who have a better suite of knowledge in this area.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

Southern boy, you have been around as far as time can tell.
you've seen alot of these threads, I know becuase while researching I've seen your post as far as 06 maybe even further. (and your join date says 04)

The OP's in those threads have said they've changed out the master and slave cylinder and that still didnt solve the "stiff" clutch feel after high RPM runs. I had read one thread where he changed the clutch and the problem went away.

I dont do any more spirited driving any more, because I hate the way the clutch feels after.
Its fine during normal driving. No slipping, no stiffness, it behaves like a normal operating clutch should.

SouthernBoy

Yep, I joined before I bought my '04 manual TL in 2004. Guess that does go back a ways, eh?

I took one of my sons-in-law out for a quick little ride last Friday night and I got into it in first, second, and third gears. With the VSA off and going from a roll in first, clutch out and fully engaged, I nailed it and immediately the tires started spinning. When I hit second, I spun the tires again and soon thereafter, hit third. My shift point for the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts was 6000 RPM. I experienced no stiffness in the clutch or anything abnormal whatsoever.

I suppose the problem could be strictly mechanical in nature.. there is that possibility. We have a self-adjusting pressure plate that takes up the clearance that would normally be created with a worn friction disk. This allows full clamping pressure as the disk wears. We also have a dual-mass flywheel which is designed to dampen shock to the drive train. Between these two components, perhaps there could be a problem as the friction disk wears - I just do not know and wish I did.

I'm sure someone will weigh in on this soon. You're right, though. There has been a fair amount of discussion regarding this problem.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

I bought my car used in feb 2010. It never did this in the beginning. it had developed after a hard run.

I think a combination of the previous owner, people test driving, and myself learning how to drive this car (I had a 5 speed dodge ram, different engagement points) contributed to my stiffness in clutch feel after high RPM runs.

I'll teach my girlfriend soon, so I can switch out the clutch and take a look at all the components. If I take well detailed pictures, could you spot out the trouble/worn items?

I didn't buy a flywheel, so I'm hoping that my current one is in great shape.

SouthernBoy

Sure, I'll take a look at the photos, but your best friend may be your mechanic who is doing the work assuming he has decent experience in these areas.. although you did intimate that you are the one who will be doing the work.

Generally it is recommended to at least resurface the flywheel when doing a clutch job (but not to remove metal since that can create problems down the road - perhaps resurface was the wrong term to use. It is better to install a new one. If the problem is in the flywheel and it doesn't appear to be damaged, you will not know until you have put everything back together and have put some miles on it that it is still having the same problems. If you are using a mechanic to do the work, hopefully he has experience with these cars since if he does, he will be a valuable source of info for you.

Unfortunately when buying a used car, you really never know how it was driven. What you should always do is ask the owner to take you for a ride before he lets you drive it. The reason for this is you want to observe how he operates things. This will tell you much (very much) how much he knows about operating a manual transmission. However, if there was more than one other owner, all you are going to know is how he operates it.

I looked up the part number you ordered through the website you gave and from the price, I suspected you didn't get too much stuff. Looks like all you got was the friction disk and the pressure plate. What about the release bearing and the pilot bearing? And of course, the flywheel.

I hope everything comes out fine for you.... do keep us informed.

phee

iTrader: (5)

im thinking it may be a fluid issue. it never happened until i did the clutch slave cylinder mod. there may be trapped air in the line that moves position towards the rubber hose during hot cycles

phee

iTrader: (5)

sure enough. low fluid in the res. problem fixed

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

Glad you solved your problem, 50nggas.

At cold, my clutch fluid is in the middle of min. and max.

jc-tl

So, I have a similar, but different issue. Here is the data:

- '06 TL, 54.5K on the clock

- I have the bloody clutch pedal clicking issue, i tried the procedure to spray lithium grease in the MC, but that did no good. The clicking comes and goes. I cannot figure any rhyme or reason to it.

- sometimes, after driving, say 30 mins on the highway, 6th gear, a cool 2500 RPM or so, i go for the clutch and it is stiff. I.e., does not feel like i am getting the full hydrollic assist

- sometimes, when i cold-start the car, i let the clutch out and get engagement IMMEDIATELY, i.e., way low down in the pedal travel versus the normal, higher-up place.

- sometimes, when i am ripping through the gear, not necessarily winding the 3.2L out, by the time i am rolling into 4th, the hydrollic assist seems to weaken. i.e., it is the same as the two above.

these are all three different 'use cases' if you will.

i checked fluid level: good to go.

i am suspecting the master cylinder.

any reason no to? I cannot imagine it is due to the clutch itself, since it is well behaved > 50% of the time. it is the < 50% of the time that is driving me nuts! My P.O.S. '94 corolla never had any issues like this!

lastly, if i go the MC replacement route:
a) where is a good place to get the part?
b) how much of a b_tch is it to replace? I have a lot of experience repairing cars over the years (brakes, engine mechanical, struts, exhaust, etc, etc)

thanks a bunch!
-jc