Check engine light..
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Check engine light..
So my '07 TL check engine light decides to light up on Saturday, and turns off Saturday night, then pops back up this evening. I went by auto zone to get a "scan tool" hooked up to it and came up with 2 trouble codes:
1. P0108- MAP sensor ($169)
2. P0134- 02 sensor "bank 1 sensor 1" ($129)
My question is, do i change both of these sensors or just one, or is there something else wrong with the engine? Any help would be greatly appreciated fellas.
1. P0108- MAP sensor ($169)
2. P0134- 02 sensor "bank 1 sensor 1" ($129)
My question is, do i change both of these sensors or just one, or is there something else wrong with the engine? Any help would be greatly appreciated fellas.
#2
Suzuka Master
change one sensor first to see if the CEL will goes away if not then go ahead and replace the second one.
#4
Race Director
I'd clear the codes and wait a few days to see if it happens again.
If it does, my bet would be the O2 sensor.... (assuming it's the same 2 codes).
If it does, my bet would be the O2 sensor.... (assuming it's the same 2 codes).
Last edited by nfnsquared; 07-23-2012 at 10:32 PM.
#5
Drifting
I would try the MAP first. The O2 is a result of everything that happens before it. A MAP(intake) can effect the exhaust.. But a bad O2 cannot effect the intake.
But even before you buy one, I would find the troubleshooting routine for a MAP sensor. Do whatever the book says. It might ask you to check voltages and connections
But even before you buy one, I would find the troubleshooting routine for a MAP sensor. Do whatever the book says. It might ask you to check voltages and connections
Last edited by Chad05TL; 07-24-2012 at 07:03 PM.
#6
Safety Car
iTrader: (7)
DTC's are simply codes that point you in a direction for diagnostics. It DOES NOT tell you exactly what is wrong. For an example just because you got a code for MAP sensor and O2 B1S1 doesn't automatically mean that it's bad and needs to be replaced.
To find out what is wrong with it, it will require further diagnosing like hooking up a scan tool to view PID data and compare them to what they should be at normal operation. This can also include using a DMM to check the circuit wires for vRef, signal, and ground wires.
It's a $129-$169 gamble if you decide to just simply remove and replace a sensor. It may work, but what if the problem still persists after the new sensor is in place?
Well than that means the sensor isn't at fault. The sensor is fine. The problem may actually be something to do with circuit wiring. Open, short, high resistance, etc.
Good luck and I hope you get this solved. Please do come back and tell us what you did to get rid of the MIL.
To find out what is wrong with it, it will require further diagnosing like hooking up a scan tool to view PID data and compare them to what they should be at normal operation. This can also include using a DMM to check the circuit wires for vRef, signal, and ground wires.
It's a $129-$169 gamble if you decide to just simply remove and replace a sensor. It may work, but what if the problem still persists after the new sensor is in place?
Well than that means the sensor isn't at fault. The sensor is fine. The problem may actually be something to do with circuit wiring. Open, short, high resistance, etc.
Good luck and I hope you get this solved. Please do come back and tell us what you did to get rid of the MIL.
Last edited by vietxquangstah; 07-25-2012 at 08:56 PM.
#7
Intermediate
Thread Starter
I ordered a map sensor yesterday, hope to get it tomorrow so I can try to fix my problem.. good looking out guys.. thanks and keep up the good work..
Will update with results soon..
Will update with results soon..
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#8
Intermediate
Thread Starter
OK good news, I changed out my map sensor then went to auto zone and hooked up the scan tool to my car and cleared the codes and viola, no more check engine light.. thanks again for the helps guys.
#9
Suzuka Master
clearing the codes and awaiting the next code was the best advice. hopefully your choice was correct.
#11
Drifting
what codes now? same?
by the way, I was looking up the map sensor $57
http://www.acurapartswarehouse.com/o...0-PNC-003.html
by the way, I was looking up the map sensor $57
http://www.acurapartswarehouse.com/o...0-PNC-003.html
Last edited by Chad05TL; 07-27-2012 at 09:24 PM.
#12
Intermediate
Thread Starter
I got a map sensor for the same price.. thanks tho.. hmm got back in the car a while ago and the CEL was off this time.. wth??? So its an intermittent issue.. I'm leaving it with my buddy tomorrow to get it fixed along with timing belt, water pump etc..
#13
Intermediate
Thread Starter
OK guys, got some great news, I dropped my car off to a buddy of mine who use to work for Acura to change my timing belt, water pump, tensioner pulley, and drive belt (parts and labor $500) and he also ordered an O2 sensor for me and changed it out and viola no more check engine light.
So, all the parts and labor ended up costing me about $700, but at least now I have o check engine light and new timing belt and friends ;o). And most importantly a peace of mind.
So, all the parts and labor ended up costing me about $700, but at least now I have o check engine light and new timing belt and friends ;o). And most importantly a peace of mind.
#14
Drifting
wow cool. I would have wasted a few bucks then based on my thinking.. Maybe Acura, in their subroutines, decided to just give you all possibilites rather than the actual malfunctioning part? Wouldnt know unless I wrote the firmware for the ecm. Or follow the troubleshooting guide like I mentioned. Sometimes the troubleshooting guide doesnt always say.. I wouldnt know though, because I have not read it. Anyways.. congrats.
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