weskurtz81

So, I am experiencing a problem with my 05 TL, not sure what is causing it.

Basically, during slow acceleration, the whole car seems to shake for a second or two. It's usually in second gear, but can also be felt to a lesser extent in higher gears if driving slow enough.

So, I've replaced the EGR valve, checked for vacuum leaks, changed the plugs, changed the 3rd/4th gear pressure switches, transmission filter (because it needed it), transmission fluid.

This seems to have started after I dropped the tranny to replace the rear main seal. During that job, I also replaced all of the engine and tranny mounts, the rack/pinion (steering problem), power steering pump (leaking), and CV axles.

I have since ordered some raxles because I thought the Oreilly brand CV axles may have been the cause, doesn't seem to have made a difference.

Can anyone help point me in any direction? I've read many threads, tried quite a few different things, nothing seems to have helped. Are there any other vacuum lines that I need to look for other than those that go to the mounts?

Last question, there is a steel line that appears to come out of the transmission, it is just under the intake tube. That line is open, nothing appears to come out of it, doesn't look like any hoses are supposed to connect to it... any thoughts?

Someone, please help, tired of this shudder/vibration.

Thanks in advance!

YeuEmMaiMai

did u pop the cover plate off and check EGR passages? did you get any codes? milage on car?

my car shudders between 2-3 shift and I have some slight vibration at low speed due to bent rims but other than that no issues.. That steel tube is most likely vent tube, someone else will have to chime on that one

weskurtz81

Cover off of the EGR passages? I only changed the valve so I guess that is a no. Only codes I had were 83-1 and 61-1, but my battery was going out at that time (I will check them again). The car has just over 160K miles on it.

Project_CLean

iTrader: (2)

Is it coming from the engine bay? As in the engine itself is shuddering? or do you really mean it's felt in the entire vehicle?

Does it shake during acceleration only? Which RPM's? Is the shaking specific to RPM's? Does it shake in PARK at those RPM's?

Also,why did you change your rear main seal?

*Quick Tip: Check your spark plugs. Make sure they are all still seated snugly. There has been some horror stories of plugs backing out after replacement if not properly torqued. 13 lb/ft IIRC?

weskurtz81

It's the engine or transmission shaking the car, my guess would be the engine partly because I don't want it to be the transmission. It shakes so bad that you can feel it throughout the vehicle.

It ONLY shakes under acceleration, and it's during light acceleration that it's the worst. RPM range is anywhere from 1500-2500 RPM's, but still it's during slow/light acceleration. In park it does not shake..... thought.... could be the the torque converter?

I changed the rear main because it was leaking.

I will check the plugs, but the problem was present prior to and after changing the plugs.

Project_CLean

iTrader: (2)

That's a thought. The torque converter is used mostly at takeoff speeds,basically to get the car off the line..right? lol. Did you use correct ATF? Maybe double check your levels. Sometimes it's better to start with the basics..

YeuEmMaiMai

The top of the intake has a cover plate on it and that is where the EGR passages are

11:47 in this video shows you

weskurtz81

Just to give you guys an update.

Last week I installed the passenger side raxle, didn't have time for the driver side. No noticeable difference after swapping out the Oreilly axle with the Raxle axle on the passenger side.

I picked up the intake manifold gasket as well as the throttle body gasket on Friday, and decided to go ahead and clean out the intake and change the driver side axle today.

After changing the driver side axle, and before cleaning the intake, I test drove the car. It currently appears that the vibration is gone, I felt no evidence of the issue!

After that, I let the car cool and then pulled the intake/throttle body and used about 6 cans of intake cleaner to remove the gratuitous amounts of carbon build up! Holy cow, it was just full of trash! I ran seafoam through a vacuum line a few weeks ago, but clearly that didn't clean the intake out (although, it did help).

The car purrs like a kitten now, it's probably never been this smooth or quiet at idle since I bought it with 60K miles on it, simply amazing the impact it had.

I had one negative side effect which wasn't present prior to cleaning out the intake, I'm now getting code P0401 which is an EGR error saying there is insufficient flow. I guess it's possible that I knocked something lose and it clogged up one of the EGR ports, but it's much cleaner than it was before hand and the ports aren't small enough that the lose carbon would clog them up, so I'm not really sure what's going on.

Vibration- I'm going to call it fixed by replacing the cheap driver axle from Oreilly's with a Raxle.

EGR code- any thoughts on this? Should I pull the intake and clean/inspect it again? Should I pull the EGR valve and spray cleaner in the ports? Suggestions?

Thanks for all the advice btw!

cazio

iTrader: (3)

torque converter is what I would have guessed if urs is an auto. I had a similar issue

I hate cars

Is the EGR gasket on backwards/upside down?

Project_CLean

iTrader: (2)

Good update .

weskurtz81

Negative. I didn't actually remove the EGR when I cleaned the intake. I only took the upper intake off, didn't remove the lower plenums or the EGR (ran out of TB cleaner). I'm going to take it all off again and inspect for issues.

weskurtz81

So, and EGR low flow error code is what happens when you don't keep an eye on your friends work, and he ends up leaving a paper towel in your intake....

I was taking it apart yesterday afternoon to see if I could track the problem down, and what I found was a paper towel sitting at the intake to the EGR valve.

Also, here are some shots of one of my heads with valve cover removed. How does this look for a car with 160K miles on it?

eddiereddie(04 tl,07 mdx)

I had the same problem with mine but every attempt to come to a diagnosis from the dealer they claim they find nothing wrong! Worse yet about 2 weeks ago while driving my transmission just decided to stop working! Now my car will only go into hear when first started, after the engine is warmed up it will not go into gear any ideas and did u ever find the cause of the shudder? After looking at threads I find that Acura has a history of transmission problems! This sucks I've always loved Acura and currently own 2 somebody help!!!!!

Project_CLean

iTrader: (2)

Not too shabby,what kind of oil do you use?

I hate cars

Not bad under the valvecover. Nothing that will affect performance or longevity. There's varnish but that's cosmetic. I'm curious what oil you're using and what your oil change interval is. I've used only Amsoil ACD straight 30 and Redline in this engine since with 3-5k OCIs and under my valve covers it looked like a brand new engine, everything was perfect except for just a trace of discoloration in one spot on the rocker shaft. On the bright side, the front valvecover is the dirtier one. The firewall side is usually cleaner because this is where the fresh air for the PCV system enters and the front cover is where all of the bad stuf exits through the PCV valve.

weskurtz81

I've been using Mobile One 5W-20 since I bought the car with 60K miles on it. I typically change the oil about 500-1000 miles after the indicator comes on (which is @ 3500 miles correct?).

Are you saying that you didn't get the varnishing using Amsoil and Redline? Interesting that one brand would cause the varnishing and another wouldn't.

I was going to adjust the valves, but I think it would be easier to do with another person (and I haven't heard them chattering yet), so I will wait to do that.

Nothing I've done to this car has had the impact that cleaning the intake had. It seriously feels like the car was brought back to life, it's simply amazing.

What else should I consider doing to this vehicle since I plan on keeping it for another 100k-150k miles? Here's a list of the things I've done:

-Regular maintenance
- oil changes every 3500-5500 miles
- 3 quart transmission flush every other oil change roughly (to be on the safe side)
- plugs/timing belt/water pump every ~100K unless symptoms show needed earlier

-Replaced due to wear
- All front rubber suspension components @ 120K
- shocks- replaced stock with Tokico @ 120K(sp?)
- PS pump and rack/pinion @ 150K due to erratic steering problem and leaks
- engine/transmission mounts @ 150K
- CV axles @ 150K because they were stock and I had the car apart so I figured I
might as well swap them out while access is easy... bad decision.. Oreilly axles
caused vibrations.
- Rear main seal @ 150K- was leaking
- 3rd and 4th gear AT switches every 60K-80K miles to be safe.

Is there anything else I need to be doing, other than checking valve adjustment, to help extend the life of this car? It really is in outstanding shape even if you don't take the mileage into consideration, it purrs like a kitten and rides better than it did stock. Of course, there are the little rattles and squeaks inside, but they are very minor and most people don't even notice them.

Edit: I didn't mention things like brakes, wipers, etc, but of course I change as necessary.

ceenite

Thanks for this post. I currently have the exact same issue and this confirms to me what the problem is (axles).. I had my drivers side snap on me while driving and had them both replaced. The vibration came right after that. Oh well.. guess I'll be buying some Raxles in the near future.. The vibration scared me enough to run out and buy 3/4 pressure switches so its all good.. next some Type F and lightweight.