Brakeline Bleeding Question
Brakeline Bleeding Question
Hey guys, first I just want to say thanks for all the advice everyone puts in here. It's a great site and I don't know how I could live without it.
I have a question about brake line bleeding. Yesterday, I used 2 liters of Motul DOT 5.1 fluid to flush the system, but could never get the fluid completely clear. At the end of the flush (when I ran out of new fluid to use), it was clear but still with a somewhat yellow tint. However this was much different than the black shit coming out before. Not sure if this was ever done on the car- it is an 05 MT with 58k.
My mechanic buddy that I did it with thought it would be fine, and always flushed brakes with lines that didnt always come out totally clear as he claimed there would always been some residual gunk in there.
When reading about the procedure on here, however while reading about it on here, a couple of people claimed that this bleed was totally worthless unless it came out totally clear.
Using 2 liters to flush it seems like a lot to me to not get clear fluid. I guess my question is should I go back, bleed with another liter or two of fluid until it is totally clear, or will it be ok? I will probably do it again next year, so would it be smart to just do it again or is not having the fluid completely clear OK?
I have a question about brake line bleeding. Yesterday, I used 2 liters of Motul DOT 5.1 fluid to flush the system, but could never get the fluid completely clear. At the end of the flush (when I ran out of new fluid to use), it was clear but still with a somewhat yellow tint. However this was much different than the black shit coming out before. Not sure if this was ever done on the car- it is an 05 MT with 58k.
My mechanic buddy that I did it with thought it would be fine, and always flushed brakes with lines that didnt always come out totally clear as he claimed there would always been some residual gunk in there.
When reading about the procedure on here, however while reading about it on here, a couple of people claimed that this bleed was totally worthless unless it came out totally clear.
Using 2 liters to flush it seems like a lot to me to not get clear fluid. I guess my question is should I go back, bleed with another liter or two of fluid until it is totally clear, or will it be ok? I will probably do it again next year, so would it be smart to just do it again or is not having the fluid completely clear OK?
I say you'll be fine. To totally expel all the old fluid is quite a job as the new mixes with the old as it enters the calipers and will mix with the old, similar to the 3 x 3 trans fluid change, it's better, but does not totally displace all the old fluid.
You did remember that the front Brembos have 2 bleeders for each caliper?
Main thing is to get the condensation out of the calipers, especially the fronts as the contaminated fluid resides at the bottom of the caliper.
Do it again next year and you'll be good to go.
You did remember that the front Brembos have 2 bleeders for each caliper?
Main thing is to get the condensation out of the calipers, especially the fronts as the contaminated fluid resides at the bottom of the caliper.
Do it again next year and you'll be good to go.
you have to redo the entire bleed job-
the front sides you didnt bleed out are holding crud fluid
Make sure to keep Master Cyl topped up after each nipple and wheel
IMPORTANT NOTE
DO NOT push the pedal to the floor during bleeding- only 3/4 of the travel to floor should be used- just as in normal braking- that much travel or you can damage the master cyl seal
A small block of 2x4 under the brake arm will prevent the prob- make sure to remove the block when finished!!!
Its LF driver front- Outer bleeder till clear- then inner bleeder nipple till clear
then RF passenger front- outer till good then inner
Pass rear RR till good
and Driver rear LR till done
then go do 2 ABS active stops from 45 mph to stopped- accellerate quickly to 45 mph and repeat full application of brakes to ABS kicking the brake pedal under your foot/feet
Gravel or wet one side of the road for this test is easiest way
IF the 2nd try had firmer- stiffer brake pedal- there was air trapped in the ABS controller- now its been sent out and into the caliper- normally found in LF but if air is there- redo the entire car
Better to have awesome brakes than questionable
1.5-2 qts for a 58kMile car is easy to see- can use that much with annual changes!
Buy another qt
the front sides you didnt bleed out are holding crud fluid
Make sure to keep Master Cyl topped up after each nipple and wheel
IMPORTANT NOTE
DO NOT push the pedal to the floor during bleeding- only 3/4 of the travel to floor should be used- just as in normal braking- that much travel or you can damage the master cyl seal
A small block of 2x4 under the brake arm will prevent the prob- make sure to remove the block when finished!!!
Its LF driver front- Outer bleeder till clear- then inner bleeder nipple till clear
then RF passenger front- outer till good then inner
Pass rear RR till good
and Driver rear LR till done
then go do 2 ABS active stops from 45 mph to stopped- accellerate quickly to 45 mph and repeat full application of brakes to ABS kicking the brake pedal under your foot/feet
Gravel or wet one side of the road for this test is easiest way
IF the 2nd try had firmer- stiffer brake pedal- there was air trapped in the ABS controller- now its been sent out and into the caliper- normally found in LF but if air is there- redo the entire car
Better to have awesome brakes than questionable
1.5-2 qts for a 58kMile car is easy to see- can use that much with annual changes!
Buy another qt
Last edited by 01tl4tl; Aug 2, 2010 at 05:32 PM.
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