thorws

Hi all, Got a CPO TL '05 98k like a week ago for $13.5k. The car was serviced at the dealer before putting it up on sales. That includes timing belt, tensioner, water pump, transmission fluid, oil and filter. The dealer also gave me a service record of all those replacements. And they have the brakes checked as well. But I don't know how to read the info though. It says: Brake Wear Front 5.0 mm, Rear 3.0mm. Is this anything to be concerned about? When should I change my brake pads? And, just out of curiosity, did I pay too much for the car? Not that I can do anything about it, just wanna know so I can be a better bargainer in the future (it's my first time actually bargaining with a dealer, fyi)

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Service limit is 1.6mm front/rear, so when the pads acheive this thickness it will be time for a change and depending on your driving habits will determine the longevity of the pads.

As far as price, that is certainly subjective, but if in excellent condition, I'd say a good price especially with the service that was done and if equipped with navigation it's even better.

makk

Here in Canada CPO needs greater than 40% wear for brakes. Yours has much less.

nfnsquared

OP, lot of good info in the service department:

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/brakes-caliper-o-h-pad-repl-hoses-bleed-disc-specs-park-brake-adj-3g-garage-d-041-a-578017/

dcmodels

You should either check your brakes yourself carefully, or have another dealer check them, as a second opinion.

My GM Chevy brake limit is 1/8 inch or about 3mm. The reason to change pads before the absolute miminum set by Acura, is for two reasons.

First, when pads wear very thin, that allows the brake caliper piston to protrude (project) to almost its maximum distance. The piston can 'cock' in its bore, and cause problems when pushing it back in for new thicker pads. This can also cause some small leak at the caliper piston seal under heavy braking.

Secondly, I am pretty sure that your TL has calipers with single-sided pistons like my own RDX - single piston on one side only of the caliper. Which means that the inside pad (next to the piston) can wear faster than the outer pad, which has no piston. This uneven wear can be difficult to check without removing the wheel. So even though your outer pads may be OK, the inner pads may be thinner.

Also, the leading end of the pads can wear faster than the other end. This is generally more of a problem with the inner pad, the one next to the caliper piston.

And leading end means the first end touched by the rotating rotor, which actually means the end toward the REAR of the car, not the front of the car.

Again, one end of the pads can be OK, while the other end has worn much thinner. This can cause the piston to cock, and the seal to leak, or at best, to decrease the braking performance.

In other words, make certain that ALL of the pad surface, on both pads on each wheel / caliper, are the same thickness and of an acceptable thickness. This is unlikely to be the case, and the only way to check, is to remove the wheels and look (carefully).

nfnsquared

^^^^FWIW, on my only front pad replacement so far, I had no wear difference between inner/outer pads on either side and I saw no evidence of leading edge wear either. YMMV...

But to the OP: the point being made by others is that you can learn to do this yourself or you could ask the service tech to show you while he has the wheels off the car. That way you know for sure. There's tons of great info on this forum that you can learn in a short amount of time. Next time, you will know what questions to ask of the service tech and feel confident in doing so or you can do it yourself

thorws

thanks all for the responses. I'd love to be able to check out the car by myself. But living in a rental apartment and parking outside has its disadvantages. I don't have that many tools available to disassemble the car. But I'd definitely take u guys' advises and have those pads checked out.