mhanna

Hello. This is my first post.

My 2007 AT TL Type-S w/3K miles was in for service last week for brake pedal "pulsating" at highway speeds. Diagnosis from dealer was warped rotors, rotors were turned (via on vehicle lathe) covered under OEM warranty. My wife went to pick up the vehicle and as soon as I had the first opportunity to run her at highway speeds, the problem still exists. In fact, under braking at high speeds not only do I get a brake pedal and steering wheel pulsation/shaking, I also get a "fluttering" sound inside the cabin which appears to be coming from the rear brakes. I am NOT a spirited driver, in fact a Type-S was probably overkill for me the way I drive, but I like how it looked! Nonetheless, I'm very dissapointed, having driven Domestic vehicles all my life I didn't expect this kind of problem w/ an Acura.

Any advice would be very appreciated.

Thanks.

csmeance

might be bad pads or a capiler acting odd. I would take it in again and ask them to put on new rotors and new ads to see if the problem goes away because a glazed pad or a dirty pad may do that.

donc

Did you go through the heat and cooling cycles for the new brakes? They may just need to be properly "worn in".

mhanna

Not sure I understand what you mean by heat & cooling cycles?

This is not normal and once metal fatigues due to thermal stress, which is not the case based on driving habits, it will not return to its true run-out.

csmeance

when new pads are installed, the pads need to be broken in. THis is done by speeding to 20 and then slowing down numerous times , giving them a slight break then repeating.

Jesstzn

There is a very good possibility its not the brakes but a tire issue. I have the same thing .. warped rotors will also do it at lower speeds when hot.

You can do a couple things to narrow it down.

A put your spare on the right front and see if it goes away .. if not put the wheel back on and try the spare on the left front. The reason I suggest the front is the steering wheel shake your having .

If it stops when putting the spare on either wheel then you have figured out the wheel.


Or you could rotate the fronts to the back and see if it partially stops it .. on the back it should be less pronounced. If its worse then you know it was a back tire .. and your still going to have to do the process of elimination.

Last find a tire store with a Hunter Road Force Balancer GSP97000 and have them go through the tires.

Good reading here too

tire issues