i have so many problems that i dont even know where to begin.

but i really need some hardcore help so ill give it my best shot to try and explain....

2004 w/ 6MT - never been wrecked, never had any suspension damage, NOTHING!

-6 months ago, i take my car in to get its alignment/camber kits adjusted again after readjusting my veh. ride height. at that time, i was informed of a riipped cv boot- drivers side.

-few months later, my car began to buck uncontrollably hard at the slightest touch of the accelerator while in 1st gear ( and no im not an inexperienced driver w/ MT) and you could really feel the motor or drive train oscillating like a f-in champ through the rest of gears. as i go through the gears it seems to buck less but only to oscillate even more. also, the slower i drive, the more obvious it is. when i floor it, it seems to hide the bucking and f-in god damn jerking a lot better- but thats b.s. and not normal.

no matter how steady i try and go in 1st, it F-ING BUCKS!!!!


when i hold my foot steady on the gas while in Neutral,i cant feel the car bucking-DUH, but i can see how the rpm needle fluctuates considerably for my foot to be dead still.

so anyways. i found my upper trans mount to be completely severed in half and so i replaced all 3 just to be safe. also, swapped out that left cv shaft for a whole new one. i thought that my discovery of broken upper trans mount was for sure the cause but NOPE.

now my car doesnt buck nearly as hard as before in 1st gear but it clearly still bucks and the oscillations are just as jerky, not even close to being fixed. replacing those trans mounts only helped to reveal an even deeper problem at the source.

- now heres where the fun begins-

after i just changed the mounts and cv 2 weeks ago, within the last 2 weeks my CHECK ENGINE LIGHT , VSA INDICATOR , and VSA ACTIVATION INDICATOR lights would SIMULTANEOUSLY come on and then ALL 3 would eventually shut off on their own like nothing even happened. this has happened atleast 5- 7 f-in times in just 2 weeks, never ever before. each time was the exact same- as soon as those 3 lights come on my car oscillates and bucks harder than it ever did before, my car suddenly becomes 10x more difficult to drive. manually hitting the vsa override button does not do anything to make the activation indicator light shut off. ONLY until i turn my ignition off then restart is when those 2 VSA lights will finally shut off. EVERYTIME THIS HAPPENS, my check engine light will then shut itself off while im panicking back home. IT WILL NEVER STAY ON by the time i make it back home. WTF?? for those who are scratching their heads- let me repeat myself- THIS EXACT SAME SCENARIO HAS HAPPENED 5-7 times, i f-in lost count after it happened so many times. but all i know is that its consistent and as soon as the check engine light shuts off, my car will then suddenly go back to driving only half as bad-- which is the norm for my POS TL.

any techs out there seen or heard of a cause for this?

also, when i changed out my left cv shaft, it was kinda stuck in the knuckle/rotor, or wutever the hell you call it and i had to bang it out of there really hard w/o nailing my lugs.. you think that helped anything? i assure you tho my car still wobbled and bucked as much it did before the cv change. so i dont think it did. and its not my balljoints either. this is a mechanical BUCKING, DRIVETRAIN TYPE of jerking, not a chassis vibration. its not speed related either, its more RPM related and its more present when im seriously driving normal like grandma or your mom drives. you can even hear it in my exhaust note. it sounds like a stutter. ive ran gallons and gallons of fuel tank treatment, besides i only buy SUper unleaded fuel from Chevron gas stations that have been built recently and NEVER when i see a tanker truck refilling their tanks. so its not something that is in my tank.
thanks in advance if there is even anyone out there who has the slightest clue or even cares .

 

Have you tried getting the codes read- that will help a lot in figuring out the problems and what is related.
When you find a torn CV boot- it means all the grease to the special axle bearing is going out the tear,,, and inviting in all the grit from the road to destroy it- as it keeps working trying to propel the car.
Immediate replacement is the best plan with cv/axles
Perhaps all that banging on stuff caught a speed sensor wire or otherwise isnt right?
ask autozone to check the codes for you and report back

 

quick question about the codes- if the check eng light turns itself off, are they still retrievable by the autozone folks? and is there a way to manually retrieve the codes using a jumper wire kinda like how civics and integras can?

 

Usually codes will stay stored in the ECUs memory of most cars until they are cleared... even if the light blinked on or off. They should still be able to pull them.

 

Shit Royce...
Got your email. Haven't had to respond.

Codes are stored for a short time. Get them quick and post here.

Email to follow tommorrow.
I suspect wiring/ECU problem

 

Sounds like an ECU issue, like the motor is being starved of fuel. I would unplug the battery for an hour or so AFTER you get the codes read, that will reset the ECU and the drive by wire system. Make sure you have your radio codes and navigation codes with you.

 

k guys, i got back from autozone and heres the code it spit out:

P2138

while looking over the doods shoulder i read something like a TPS sensor ....voltage.....

also, quick question but what does APP sensor stand for?

 

^^ APP stands for Acura Please Pay sensor...must go to dealer.......I have no idea...lol.

 

P2138 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch “D”/“E” Voltage Rationality

Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) module

 

I had a problem with the VSA indicator and warning light coming on. They would turn off after I shut the engine off but then come back. After researching just those 2 lights I found a thread about replacing a brake light switch. I took that information to the dealership and they replaced it (after some diagnostics). Haven't had the problem since (it's been about 3 weeks).

I don't know if this will help you because you have a combination of lights ... however, when you mentioned that the 2 VSA lights go off when shutting off the ignition, I instantly thought of my problem.

Good luck!

 

I had the same problem with my 04 TL. The VSA, Warning Light and the Check Engine
light would all come on, and the engine would lose power, would not exceed 40 MPH. In Dec-07 the dealer replaced the Throttle Body and Gasket for $500. Last week it started doing the same thing. I'm taking it back to the dealer tomorrow.

 

holy shit sounds like your engine is F'd! Did you misshift and overrev? your car is DEF misfiring.

 

For what it's worth, sounds very similar to the EGR valve going bad in my Honda Pilot. But, with the pedal codes you getting, sounds electrical.

 

I had this same problem before. I found a loose and dirty ground cable for the ECU. Have you looked at the repair manual? Look for the main ground and batt for the ECU, then the fuel system. All I did after I found it was to clean it and grease it. Retightened the cable - all was fine after that.....

 

I have an almost similar problem. I have an 07 TLS auto and if I step on the accelerator from a dead stop sometimes it will hesitate a little. Feels like the throttle as the engine still runs smooth. Also if I step on it from a dead stop if feels like I only initially get about 1/2 throttle till for a second or two when I finally get the rest of the power. VSA is off and I know VTEC kicks in later than 3000RPMs and doesn't give it that big of a kick. I'm thinking theres something wrong with the drive by wire. I haven't had any CEL's or lights yet.

 

The hesitation is the drive by wire engaging, its normal. As for the half power, 06+ TL's have a revised ECU map that limits power in the first 2 gears to keep traction

 

I have had the same problem happen 3 times the past month.

Has anyone been able to successfully pinpoint the problem. My mechanic runs the tests but the lights are gone.

What needs to be done to fix the problem?

Thanks.

 

I had a similar problem with the VSA, ! and Check Engine lights coming on as I was breaking for a turn or a traffic light. This was accompanied by the engine RPM being cut which limited speed to a crawl. Turning off the ignition and restarting restored things but the check engine light would remain lit for a day or two. This happened intermittently two or three times over the course of several months.

When I took the vehicle to the dealer and asked them to check the codes they found 61-1 battery voltage failure, 68-1 brake switch failure, 83-1 ECM/PCM failure and 112-1 internal power source failure. The brake switch and battery were replaced and the car drove normally for a week before the same problems occured repeatedly one day.

I took the car back to the dealer and they noted code 82 ECM/PCM relation failure. They updated the control unit/module and reprogram the HIM (Honda interface module).

It's been a week since the repairs were made and the VSA issue has not re-occurred but its going to be a while before I'm confident that the problem has really been solved.

 

Were you covered under a warranty or did they charge you a grip?

I am still trying to find a solution to this problem as my mechanic can't seem to fix it.

 

My warranty has expired. Brake switch replacement was $70 but I was not charged for reprogramming.

 

I have had this same problem for the last 2-3 years. Comes and goes. It just started happening again.
6 Months ago it was happening...dealer said I had the P2138 code talked about here. They "said" they reprogrammed the ECU and reset everything. Went away...but now it is back.
And before I get the 3 lights, it runs rough....seems to be OK after restarting it. To me it seems like a safety issue that Acura should handle before someone gets hurt. The engine cutting out and limiting power at highway speeds is not on my list of fun things to do.

 

i had the limp mode too, good thing it happened when i was home. But for me, the problem comes with my throttle sensors, we replaced the throttle body sensor but now we need to replace the secondary sensor that comes from the gas pedal. Its so retarded but hopefully this keeps my baby from going back to the shop...aka my cousin a mechanic. lol

 

so that explains why the 08 loaner I had was slow off the line.....

 

i too, am another member whose CEL has been coming on for a few hours and off the next time i start the car (mainly afternoons and mornings are when that damn light appears). as i was reading above, even if i schedule an appt with the dealer to 'read' the code and the CEL is off, it will still be abtainable? i know the code but i cant go in there and say, i have the code fix it. fyi the code is P2631, bank2 sensor 1.

 

FWIW came from SAAB's also have drive by wire and traction system.
Any Problems w/ throttle sensors or electrical items in the throttle/traction loop caused limp home condition. I know different make, but the technology has to be somewhat similar.

 

Where is this APP sensor located, I am having nothing but VSA light coming on every 10 mins.

 

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/acceleration-failure-while-driving-726039/

 

I am having the exact same issue here with my 2004 TSX. I'm having the same exact codes pulled and everything. Could you tell me exactly what you had to have done to correct this issue? I'm to the point to where I want to sell the car, but if it's not that expensive, I will get fixed.