HEY!!!

I had the same problem last week end. Searched for "Corroded" or, maybe "Corrosion" and did not find anything.

This is fixable for just a few bucks.

See my thread here: Battery Cable/Clamp Corroded - Car Won't Start



You CAN DIY the whole cable. The part is about $45 and the connections are EASY.

$280 is complete . And the so-called mechanics comment doubley so .

See the linked thread above.

If you decide to DIY and have any doubts, just PM me. Guaranteed if you take the battery out, you can replace the cable.

 

Go to autozone and get some battery terminal cleaner. Baking soda or coke did the job for a couple of days for me and then I was back at it days later cleaning the terminals. Make sure you use vaseline or battery grease on the cables after they're clean. Good Luck!

 

FYI:

Reading through this thread, it sounds as if the OP was trying to remove the battery tray (bottom) in post #23 in order to replace the Starter Cable - thats the "+" side cable on the battery.

This is NOT necessary. The cable is easily removed and replaced simply by removing the battery tie-down, the top cover and the battery itself. From there:

- It's a few clips,
- The connection at the starter (which is a "squeeze clip" on the cable at the starter - you'll see what I mean on the new cable); To get to this you may need to unclip the hose holder for the coolant lines, just so you can slide it over a bit for access.
- And one simple screw off connection at the main relay box.

(I know this is an old thread and the OP doesn't need my help. This is for anyone reading this in the future.)

 

Thanks for the reply Bearcat. I don't know the names of the parts, so I've color-coded an image and uploaded:



So there are three wires (red, blue, green). I'm guessing I have to replace them all? (Not sure if it will be sold as one piece, or three)

From your post, I figured out the relay box is in the upper right and the cable should just click in. Tried to disconnect the current wire, but its in there pretty good and I couldn't figure it out.

To the left, the cables go down, and I don't see where they connect.

Unless I have some breakthrough, I'm thinking the $280 at the dealership is the safe bet.

Thanks again.

 

That cable is one single part. In this parts drawing (which is for my Type-S), it's Item #8:

http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...s=&view=normal


The left side in your picture goes to the starter. On the cable the is a "squeeze clip". It works a little like a seat belt; when you squeeze it, it clips on a "buckle" on the starter. If you buy a new cable, you'll see instantly how it works.

The other side (your "green" side) goes to the main relay box. Just trace the cable and you'll see where it connects. Take the cover off the relay box. There is a 10mm bolt to remove where the cable attaches with a "post". Take the bolt out. The "post" is now disconnected and you can remove that side of the cable.

Beyond that there are just a few simple clips and/or cable stays to keep the cable routed properly.

Again, if you buy the new cable you'll be able to see the "squeeze clip" for the starter side and the "post" for the relay side and it will be pretty clear how it works.

To get access you do need to remove the battery, but that should be it. However, looking at your photo again, your battery sits a little different than mine. Any chance you can get a slightly wider angle picture that shows the cable path to the relay box?


Also, BEFORE YOU START:

- Make sure you have your radio and navi codes.
- Disconnect the NEG battery terminal first.
- Then Disconnect the POS battery terminal.

Whatever you do, please don't pay $280 for this. Absolute worst case, buy the cable at the dealer for $45 - $50 and take it to an indy shop or a regional/national chain (Firestone, etc) and let them do it. If that route costs you more than $100 - $150 total, I'd be surprised.

Then take your wife/GF/family to dinner with $130 you just made.

 

Just a follow up - after some trial and error I found that the inside of the existing battery terminal clamp was corroded and wouldn't come clean to make a good connection with the battery. So I cut it off and attached a store-bought one (like $5) instead. Haven't had a probelm in the two weeks since.

 

Excellent. Sounds pretty much like what I did in the thread I linked earlier (post #41).