hey i got an automatic car starter installed by a really good place near me and no matter how many times they played around with it, when its cold out my car stillwill not start. it will crank everytime but my car wont kick over. but the second i start the car and let it warm up, and turn it off again, then my car starter will work when i try it out. does anyone else have this problem? ive gone through 3 different makes of car starters and all have had the same problem. when we had warmer days the car would kick over on the second time or so, but in colder days below 40degree the car wont kick over at all with the starter. i have to get in my cr and start it myself. its driving me crazy

 

It might need to have the crank time turned up on the remote start. It should have a setting to do that. What kind of remote start is it?

 

You need to have a good tachometer signal --
1) where are they accessing the tach signal?
- they should be drilling a hole in the firewall and running a wire to a black or blue wire at the ignition coil (6 ignition coils to choose from, take your pick); this is the MOST reliable tach signal

2) I suspect your installer is using voltage sensing... installers do this because it saves time... also, some "generated" tach signals (as the one produced from the CAN-SL and CAN-SL module) can be unreliable at times (as in my experience) and once again, the most reliable signal is at the ignition coil.

Best of luck

 

I have been an installer for four years. Voltage sensing is the way we always hooked up remote starts. Yeah it does save a lot of time. That's why we did it. If they did do that take it back and see if they can tap the tach wire... much more reliable.

 

yes thats exactly what they had done i brought it back in and told the guy of my problem and given the advice of you asked him if he had used voltage sencing when installing and he replied yes so i had told him i wanted him to tap to the tech wire. he said he would do it for me free of charge since its my 3rd time going back(which he should) so hopefully it will finally be fixed. also i noticed that after the 1st time he installed it my car would not start first thing in the morning when it was very cold out, but after i had driven it around for the day and the car had warmed up, if i tried to start it then it would start on either 1st or 2nd time. why is this? is that a problem as well or is that normal? i kno plenty of people with auto starts and their cars start in the coldest of weather.

 

because as your drive your car, the battery gets up to its optimal charge and all the circuity in the vehicle is energized and "warmed up," therefore the NEXT TIME you start your vehicle (after the first time) there isn't as big of a dip in charge when it tries to start the vehicle (voltage sensing) and it can use the calibrates delta-voltage (drop in voltage and return to operating voltage) as the signal to stop cranking.

Every r/s I install gets a wire from the r/s brain to the ignition coil or dedicated vehicle tachometer wire, period. I never had a cold start fail doing this with compustar's or viper's, but I have had cold start fails (even using tach mode) with Ultrastarters (ultra-cheap brand, not reliable).

Best of luck with your r/s.

 

i used the tach wire from my idatalink module and i havent run into any problems. around here we get -35'c regularly and i havent had a problem once. Its really nice when you use a moudule that does everything and you dont have to run any wires into the engine bay. makes the install look much cleaner/professional.

 

i've had bad luck with "generated" tach signals... it has always tended to over crank the vehicle just a split second or a whole second too long .. particularly in the cold. I'd rather run the wire to the engine bay.

Glad you had a better experience, cheers

 

well i brought my car back and its still having problems. he lengthened the crank but i dont believe thats the problem it sits there and cranks forever where i feel ima burn out my starter. i had 2 replace one battery bc my car would sit with the music, hear/air, and lights on after i try starting it and it fails. my car sitting so long with all electronics on and car not actually running has drained the battery. its so frustrating, i dont think he ran the wire to the engine bay lik u had said i wish there was a member familiar with a/s that i could meet up with to have him take a look. i cant stand this shop. i wish i could do this myself but i dont know much about this.

 

maybe because u have all the electronics on...might have enough power to start...idk jus a suggestion

GL

 

try taking it to the dealership.

 

you mentioned that your car cranks but it does not turn over...

not sure if this has been addressed yet, but how are you bypassing the immobilizer??? i am assuming that you are not bypassing the signal by burying a key... but you are using a wired bypass unit... i have read that sometimes in cold weather they do not work consistently... on my Corolla that i installed a DEI system last august, i had one occassion this winter that the r/s did not work first thing in the morning when it was ice cold out...

perhaps you have a faulty bypass unit... have you tested to see if the car will remote start with the key in the ignition... i know that when i had a new key cut... when we tried to start the car before programming the immobilizer, the car would just crank and crank...

 

do u have a bypass module??
and where is the tach signal coming from??? most of the time if there is no signal from the cluster or u dont have a bypass module u get it from cylinder one, which is on the passenger side rear of the engine... believe the wire is yellow/green or green/yellow..... most remote starters wont push if it doesnt see more than 600 rpm to start. oh and check the battery if ur seeing less than 12.6 volts (give or take half a volt) u may need to get a new one.

 

If your remote starter is using the "generated tach signal" then battery voltage has a large effect on starting.It determines the RPM by Batt. voltage. If the bypass moodule is faulty and not putting out a signal then the injectors wont fire. like other people have told you there should be 3 things you chould check right now.
1)battery condition(have the battery load tested, it might have 12.6V but doenst mean anything if you dont load it up to see how much its putting out when current is being drawn.sometimes the remote starter will go into valet mode because of low battery voltage.
2)bypass module,if this thing isnt working properly then the remote starter wont be getting the tach signal.And it wont give a signal to bypass the immobilizer.
3) is the tach wire hooked up to a coil or not??? some people have had success with the generated signal from the immobilizer and some like to go strait to the coils. The coil is the most reliable way. but i havent had problems with my "generated" signal yet.

 

Sorry for drifting the thread a bit, but can anyone tell me why DEI (I'm referring in particular to Viper 5901) units don't let you use tach sensing for manual transmissions?

 

Probably so you don't put your car through your garage when you leave it in gear.

 

No, I don't think so. They have a whole procedure you have to go through before the system will go into autostart mode. Basically, it ensures that you're in neutral before exiting the car (with the engine still running) and then the car is turned off after shutting and locking the doors.

 

safety... so u dont leave the car in gear and u dont hit someone if u do leave the car in gear and it jumps forward... thats y the sticker comes in the package that says..... THIS CAR IS EQUIPPED WITH A REMOTE STARTER ETC ETC

 

so what that have to do with tach sensing instead of tapping a coil?

 

How come he listens when George says it and not me?

 

^^^^^Were you talking to me? If not, disregard. If so, I don't think you have a clue what I'm asking.

The newer DEI units can be installed in an vehicle with automatic or manual transmission. However, if installing in a manual transmission, the instructions say not to tach sense from the bus, but run a wire to the coil for tach sensing.

If installed in an automatic transmission, you can tach sense from the bus. (Again, arguably not the best source for tach sensing).

So again my question, does anyone know why can't you tach sense from the bus for a manual transmission installation?

 

I'm not sure why this is occurring -- you should be able to use the BUS (CAN, idata, etc) to use the generated Tach signal or the ignition coil to use THAT signal...

what problem specifically are you having?

 

There's no problem, I haven't done the install yet. But the installation manual (page 29) says you can't use "virtual tach" with a manual transmission. Just wondering why?
Viper 5901 installation manual

 

i know most of the bypass modules give u realtime rpm...the most it can be off by is 100rpm....dei recommmends against remote starters on manuals because of some peoples like of putting the car in gear when its parked. if you do install the remote starter on a manual make sure u dont forget to bypass the clutch with a relay thats activated at the same time the remote starter is about to turn the car over. some dei alarms turn on at a certain temp..... another reason they dont want u to connect it to a manual if the person leaves it in gear and its actually that cold out it'll throw the car forward.

the wires to connect to are as follows for the plugs in order from 1-6
1. yellow/green
2. blue/red
3. white/blue
4. brown
5. black/red
6. brown/white

all the other colors on each coil pack are black and black/white

 

Haha.. dont feel bad, that's cuz George has a degree in this shit..LoL.

Oh and George, we're upgrading my alarm to the new VIPER 5900. Notice how I said "WE"...

 

George is never coming down here so you're gonna have to do that shit when you go back to NY - HAHA!

 

lol nah ill be down friday =) i really dont even think people listen when i say anything lmao.