APP or TPS???
My car recently started hesitating while driving at a constant speed. Eventually I had my first "Limp Mode" experience and it has happened several times since. I have done some research and have learned that there can be a couple things that cause this problem. 1.) TPS 2.)APP Sensor. Is there a way to determine which is causing the problem? I don't have the proper tools to check volts, etc., so i am hoping that there is a way to determine which sensor is creating the problem. Also, if it is the TPS I read something about replacing the whole replacing the whole throttle body. Is this true? Seems to be a common problem so i am hoping someone can help.......
I am also experiencing some other issues: (PLEASE LMK IF ANYONE HAS ISSUES WITH THESES)... Also, where is a good place to purchase these parts (best bang for the $$) Located in Cincinnati Ohio..
-HFL - drains my battery so i disconnected it.
-Alternator - makes a whining noise while driving and at idle
-Cruise Control Switch - I press it and the dash indicator light comes on saying its engaged. As soon as i let go of the button it turns off.
**I will also be replacing rotors, pads and shocks in the near future.
I am also experiencing some other issues: (PLEASE LMK IF ANYONE HAS ISSUES WITH THESES)... Also, where is a good place to purchase these parts (best bang for the $$) Located in Cincinnati Ohio..
-HFL - drains my battery so i disconnected it.
-Alternator - makes a whining noise while driving and at idle
-Cruise Control Switch - I press it and the dash indicator light comes on saying its engaged. As soon as i let go of the button it turns off.
**I will also be replacing rotors, pads and shocks in the near future.
To validate the APP sensor, test using cruise control. If that resolves your issue, replace the APP sensor. I see you have issues with your cruise...so this may not be an easy test method.
HFL - Yep, disconnect, done.
Alternator - Sounds like it is failing and needs to be replaced.
Cruise - No idea.
Where to buy? There are a handful of dealers on here that sell OEM parts...and always rock auto if you ware interested in aftermarket.
HFL - Yep, disconnect, done.
Alternator - Sounds like it is failing and needs to be replaced.
Cruise - No idea.
Where to buy? There are a handful of dealers on here that sell OEM parts...and always rock auto if you ware interested in aftermarket.
To validate the APP sensor, test using cruise control. If that resolves your issue, replace the APP sensor. I see you have issues with your cruise...so this may not be an easy test method.
HFL - Yep, disconnect, done.
Alternator - Sounds like it is failing and needs to be replaced.
Cruise - No idea.
Where to buy? There are a handful of dealers on here that sell OEM parts...and always rock auto if you ware interested in aftermarket.
HFL - Yep, disconnect, done.
Alternator - Sounds like it is failing and needs to be replaced.
Cruise - No idea.
Where to buy? There are a handful of dealers on here that sell OEM parts...and always rock auto if you ware interested in aftermarket.
I also have the "tighten fuel cap" but have read that it can be fixed with EVAP Purge replacement. Great forum and nice people! Glad to be a part of this!
Sensor vs Assembly? That is a cost vs hassle decision you have to make for yourself. I am pretty sure I just bought the sensor when I did mine. It should take you less than 20 minutes to replace the sensor. I spent more time looking for my socket set than I did replacing the sensor.
Fuel Cap....I have had that pop up twice in the past few years and have lucked out just tightening the cap up a few times makes it go away. I have not had to replace the valve yet.
Fuel Cap....I have had that pop up twice in the past few years and have lucked out just tightening the cap up a few times makes it go away. I have not had to replace the valve yet.
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