60K miles...Need new front rotors already?
#1
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60K miles...Need new front rotors already?
My front brakes started to squeak so I took it to the Brakes Plus. I had then take a look at my brakes while doing a full alignment and they said it is time to replace the rotors as they are below minimum.
My question is should I have them replace the rotors already? Seems like it is kind of soon (60,000). Also, should I go to the stealership or have them replaced by local shop? I don't mind taking it to the dealership as long as it is work the quality.
Generally, I don't mind working on stuff myself, but I hate doing brakes. Always have. So I'm not going to do it. Not an option!
All opinions are appreciated.
My question is should I have them replace the rotors already? Seems like it is kind of soon (60,000). Also, should I go to the stealership or have them replaced by local shop? I don't mind taking it to the dealership as long as it is work the quality.
Generally, I don't mind working on stuff myself, but I hate doing brakes. Always have. So I'm not going to do it. Not an option!
All opinions are appreciated.
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#2
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sounds right, hit up our vendor excelerate and get some stoptech slotted rotors with pads, which provide better braking and more life and are a better bang for the buk and have a local shop do it, since acura will tear you a new one with their crappy rotors and prices.
#4
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My front brakes started to squeak so I took it to the Brakes Plus. I had then take a look at my brakes while doing a full alignment and they said it is time to replace the rotors as they are below minimum.
My question is should I have them replace the rotors already? Seems like it is kind of soon (60,000). Also, should I go to the stealership or have them replaced by local shop? I don't mind taking it to the dealership as long as it is work the quality.
Generally, I don't mind working on stuff myself, but I hate doing brakes. Always have. So I'm not going to do it. Not an option!
All opinions are appreciated.![Thumbs Up](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
My question is should I have them replace the rotors already? Seems like it is kind of soon (60,000). Also, should I go to the stealership or have them replaced by local shop? I don't mind taking it to the dealership as long as it is work the quality.
Generally, I don't mind working on stuff myself, but I hate doing brakes. Always have. So I'm not going to do it. Not an option!
All opinions are appreciated.
![Thumbs Up](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
#5
whats the actual measurement of thickness on the rotors?
Without that measure on a smooth looking rotor, or an explanation that the rotors are heavily grooved and wont be thick enough after resurfacing--
Did you wear out the pads down to the metal backing plate?
Get a 2nd opinion from another shop- not a brake shop-who is in the biz of replacing brakes....
a place that services hondas and acuras every day
Look in the phone book under automobile repairing for a small ad with pic of our car or name on it.
Without that measure on a smooth looking rotor, or an explanation that the rotors are heavily grooved and wont be thick enough after resurfacing--
Did you wear out the pads down to the metal backing plate?
Get a 2nd opinion from another shop- not a brake shop-who is in the biz of replacing brakes....
a place that services hondas and acuras every day
Look in the phone book under automobile repairing for a small ad with pic of our car or name on it.
#6
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I've never seen a brake shop accurately measure the rotor on the hub, but if the rotors are warped then I would replace them instead of turning / resurfacing them. Send some pics!
I would stay away from the dealership b/c they'll try to get almost a $1.5k out of you for a $300 job (assuming you replace all 4 rotors). A good independent shop specialized in Honda / Acura should be able to do it in couple hours ~$200. Make sure you buy the parts first (~$300)! so all you pay for is labor.
I've never seen a brake shop accurately measure the rotor on the hub, but if the rotors are warped then I would replace them instead of turning / resurfacing them. Send some pics!
I would stay away from the dealership b/c they'll try to get almost a $1.5k out of you for a $300 job (assuming you replace all 4 rotors). A good independent shop specialized in Honda / Acura should be able to do it in couple hours ~$200. Make sure you buy the parts first (~$300)! so all you pay for is labor.
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#11
Question for you.......
I'm going to get some cross-drilled rotors soon and always wondered exactly how the pattern is supposed to go. For instance, in your picture you installed your rotors the opposite way I would have done mine. Does it matter how they are installed or do they have to go a certain way to dissipate heat?
I'm going to get some cross-drilled rotors soon and always wondered exactly how the pattern is supposed to go. For instance, in your picture you installed your rotors the opposite way I would have done mine. Does it matter how they are installed or do they have to go a certain way to dissipate heat?
#13
Safety Car
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LOL... i was wot-->brake--->wot--->brake when I first got my 2002 TL Type S ... i went through rotors on that like oil ... I've babied my '04 TL in the last 30k miles and so far so good...
I apply a few principles that I learned on this forum:
1) after heavy braking, I make sure I don't let the brake sit one spot for more than a second or two... i.e. if I slammed on the brake cuz the light turned yellow (and i saw a cop in my peripheral vision), I'll just let the car slowly transfer that heat to the entire rotor by allowing about 3 feet of slow travel.
I apply a few principles that I learned on this forum:
1) after heavy braking, I make sure I don't let the brake sit one spot for more than a second or two... i.e. if I slammed on the brake cuz the light turned yellow (and i saw a cop in my peripheral vision), I'll just let the car slowly transfer that heat to the entire rotor by allowing about 3 feet of slow travel.
#14
Safety Car
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Question for you.......
I'm going to get some cross-drilled rotors soon and always wondered exactly how the pattern is supposed to go. For instance, in your picture you installed your rotors the opposite way I would have done mine. Does it matter how they are installed or do they have to go a certain way to dissipate heat?
I'm going to get some cross-drilled rotors soon and always wondered exactly how the pattern is supposed to go. For instance, in your picture you installed your rotors the opposite way I would have done mine. Does it matter how they are installed or do they have to go a certain way to dissipate heat?
#15
Keep Right Except to Pass
#16
how long your brakes and rotors last is directly perportional to how you drive your car.....
constant hard stopping = much faster wear on your brakes
letting off of the gas and coasting down speed = brakes last a lot longer
3rd gen Type S cars have brembos and those wear incredibly fast
I drive an 02 CLS and fronts are still going strong at 80K (yes they are original)
since the rear claipers are a type that do not retract like the fronts do, they wear pretty fast......
constant hard stopping = much faster wear on your brakes
letting off of the gas and coasting down speed = brakes last a lot longer
3rd gen Type S cars have brembos and those wear incredibly fast
I drive an 02 CLS and fronts are still going strong at 80K (yes they are original)
since the rear claipers are a type that do not retract like the fronts do, they wear pretty fast......
#17
Feenin on some 20's
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I drive my car pretty dam hard, lol. I've gone to the 1/4 mile track a couple times before and has done some pretty hard braking on the mountains as well and my brake pads are still OK! Rotors are warpped for sure, but I have not changed them yet. Still got about probably 10k on my brake-pads.
I still don't understand how some of you guys change your pads/rotors so often!
I still don't understand how some of you guys change your pads/rotors so often!
#18
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Thanks all for the opinions. Sorry for delay, work has crazy.
Sounds like I got more life than I should have gotten. I should have specified that I have the 6MT. I certainly don't mind sourcing for rotors, but I only want to change the brake pads and rotors (i.e. I really don't want to replace the calipers). Also, the rears are fine so I am not going to change those out.
I am finding it nearly impossible to source locally for rotors for the manual trans (OEM brembos). Only the Acura dealership has them and they are $137 per rotor. I would pay that IF they were quality, but sounds like they are not that great. For that much money, I might as well go with a higher end performance rotor that will last longer.
I checked excelerate for stoptech slotted rotors with pads, but they seem to only sell with the whole kit including calipers. What rotors and brake pads are people running with OEM calipers? I really have to get this corrected. Thanks!
Sounds like I got more life than I should have gotten. I should have specified that I have the 6MT. I certainly don't mind sourcing for rotors, but I only want to change the brake pads and rotors (i.e. I really don't want to replace the calipers). Also, the rears are fine so I am not going to change those out.
I am finding it nearly impossible to source locally for rotors for the manual trans (OEM brembos). Only the Acura dealership has them and they are $137 per rotor. I would pay that IF they were quality, but sounds like they are not that great. For that much money, I might as well go with a higher end performance rotor that will last longer.
I checked excelerate for stoptech slotted rotors with pads, but they seem to only sell with the whole kit including calipers. What rotors and brake pads are people running with OEM calipers? I really have to get this corrected. Thanks!
#20
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I have only seen one aftermarket rotor in this post and that has a whole kit associated with it. All I want are rotors and pads. In the end, I might end up just getting the OEM rotors from Acura and make this headache go away.
They are squeeking now and it is getting annoying.
#21
That is really the question. I have been happy with the OEM rotors; for the most part. However, $137 a rotor seems a bit overpriced. I don't mind paying that IF the performance or longivity justified that. Perhaps the OEMs are worth it, but just want to see what else is out there before I drop $137 (times 2) plus brake pads.
I have only seen one aftermarket rotor in this post and that has a whole kit associated with it. All I want are rotors and pads. In the end, I might end up just getting the OEM rotors from Acura and make this headache go away.
They are squeeking now and it is getting annoying.
I have only seen one aftermarket rotor in this post and that has a whole kit associated with it. All I want are rotors and pads. In the end, I might end up just getting the OEM rotors from Acura and make this headache go away.
They are squeeking now and it is getting annoying.
#22
Instructor
Something tells me that you are looking in the wrong places to purchase your OEM Acura parts. I have a Mercedes-Benz S-class and my rotors aren't that much...check this site out...www.autohausaz.com. They have great prices on OEM parts and free shipping for order over $75, which is especially important considering that rotors are heavy. They have Brembo rotors for $83.64 or PBR for $31.75....
I'm at 60K, had new rotors and brake pads installed at 35K, and now i need new rotiors, pads, ELK GROVE acura says that I have "warpped" them badly. so i need to cough up $750 to have them install. i said, i can get some REALLY nice after market ones for cheaper installed!!!!! FTW!
Any recommendations on slotted rotors? and brembo caliper pads? HAWK and all those other brands fit OEM BREMBOS right? I have a 06 6SPEED TL.
#23
Interesting thread...my wifes 2005 TL has 76K on it and still running original pads and rotors, front and rear. Just rotated the wheels tonight. Still have good pad in the back, front pads will need replacing soon. Is rotor min thickness stamped or casted anywhere on the front rotors?
#24
I'll be interested to see what happens here. I'm currently fighting with the dealership over my front brakes. They resurfaced the warped rotors when I bought it, and now 5,000 miles later, have already warped again. The dealership claims they're not warped, and that the tires are flatspotted.
Yeah. Right. I bet a caliper is sticking or a pad isn't floating right. They're now telling me if I want them to do anything about the brakes I'd have to get Acura Care involved - as though that's a frightening prospect.
Coincidentally I'm getting new tires anyway in a couple weeks, so I'll wait till then, and then prove to them that flatspotted tires weren't it.
Honda/Acura really does need to police it's stealerships better - bad warranty experiences tends to make us eye other brands when it's time to buy again.
Yeah. Right. I bet a caliper is sticking or a pad isn't floating right. They're now telling me if I want them to do anything about the brakes I'd have to get Acura Care involved - as though that's a frightening prospect.
Coincidentally I'm getting new tires anyway in a couple weeks, so I'll wait till then, and then prove to them that flatspotted tires weren't it.
Honda/Acura really does need to police it's stealerships better - bad warranty experiences tends to make us eye other brands when it's time to buy again.
#25
Always buy good quality rotors! Trust me I work for a auto parts store and you get what you pay for. Budget rotors from over seas are made of a much lesser quality steel than from name brand products. The cheap ones rust up much quicker and will warp quicker than a oem or equalivent brand.
#26
Is there a way you can tell if your rotors are warped or just plain bad? I'm at 72k 5AT 06TL and I haven't replaced my rotors yet... I think Pepboys resurfaced them when they changed brake pads once...
#29
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1) Brake shop measures the rotors and tells you one or more are too thin to cut/machine, or
2) You can use a micrometer to measure the rotor thickness (which the brake place should do before telling you per #1)
Otherwise, there is no way to tell that a rotor is "too thin."
Rule of thumb: If the discs/rotors were machined/cut/resurfaced once before, chances are that new discs/rotors will be necessary on the next brake pad change.
2) You can use a micrometer to measure the rotor thickness (which the brake place should do before telling you per #1)
Otherwise, there is no way to tell that a rotor is "too thin."
Rule of thumb: If the discs/rotors were machined/cut/resurfaced once before, chances are that new discs/rotors will be necessary on the next brake pad change.
#30
Safety Car
Question for you.......
I'm going to get some cross-drilled rotors soon and always wondered exactly how the pattern is supposed to go. For instance, in your picture you installed your rotors the opposite way I would have done mine. Does it matter how they are installed or do they have to go a certain way to dissipate heat?
I'm going to get some cross-drilled rotors soon and always wondered exactly how the pattern is supposed to go. For instance, in your picture you installed your rotors the opposite way I would have done mine. Does it matter how they are installed or do they have to go a certain way to dissipate heat?
I currently have 36k on my TL-S with original pads and rotors. The Pads only have around 5k left in them and I plan to replace those in the next 2 months. The rotors are solid, no vibes, or groves, so I will just continue to use them.
![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Look at TireRack.com for replacement rotors for your car that are OEM style Brembos. Same rotors but cheaper.
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