Hey guys,
This is my first post however i have been using the forum for awhile for some good info. Some background on my TL, Bought the car last october with approx 125XXX on it. She ran good with some noticeable vibration but nothing alarming. The timing belt had not been completed yet so I figured that this would be remedied with this maintenance. Two months ago with about 136 on the car i had the belt, tensioner, wp, serpantine, plugs, and steering pump hose(recall) replacement. The vibration did not go away and seemed to have been getting slightly worse. Sooo.. Friday i was driving to class as normal just crusin... get to school, as i backed into a spot i had stalled it. This would not have been unusual until i had noticed the CEL. (138 miles on it at this point) I figured no issue until i got home and ran the scanner. I had a few codes on it (in order and repeated codes are intentional):
P0303 Cyl 3 misfire
P0305 Cyl 5 misfire
P0300 random misfire
P0306 Cyl 6 misfire
P0304 Cyl 4 misfire
P0303 Cyl 3 misfire
P0304 Cyl 4 misfire
P0305 Cyl 5 misfire
P0300 random misfire

After this the scanner prompts with choosing between temp or permanent DTCs:
Temp:
P0303 Cyl 3 misfire
P0304 Cyl 4 misfire
P0305 Cyl 5 misfire
77-04 (1.Random Misfire 2. A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve b stuck on 3. clutch pressure control solenoid valve b stuck on)

Permanent:
P0219 engine over speed condition
P0303 Cyl 3 misfire
P0305 Cyl 5 misfire
77-04 (1.Random Misfire 2. A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve b stuck on 3. clutch pressure control solenoid valve b stuck on)
77-06 (1.Cyl 6 Misfire 2. clutch pressure control solenoid valve a stuck on)
P0304 Cyl 4 misfire


Can someone help me determine what these codes are pointing towards, The engine over rev did not happen in my possession so i am confused because i am not sure if this code had been stored in the ecu from the previous owner, OR something was trigger during the stall to mistakenly throw the code. What else would cause this code to be thrown?

Now the bad news, i dropped the car off Tuesday and got a call Wednesday from the dealer, Ran compression tests and all cylinders were low except for 1 or 2 of them (service adviser was unclear). Could this have been caused by the service performed by them? or could this be arbitrary to that service? They now want to tear down the engine (7-8 hours of labor @ 125 an hour/ YIKES!) to further analyse...

Can anyone please help me with this? are they blowing smoke? If any one can check these out please feel free to shoot out your opinion, need any advice i can get at this point. If there are questions please ask!

Thanks Guys!

 

I've pulled, researched, and read quite a few fault codes, PIDs, including some specifically within freeze frame data logs. So, I guess I could try giving back to the community for a change...or at least try to, but don't quote me on every word because I have been known to misdiagnose some funky issues in the past. I will do my best to steer you in the right direction, though!

As far as all the codes in general and/or as a whole: the majority of them are "Cylinder [cyl. #] Misfire" (repetitively, which is very common with multiple/random cylinder misfires like yours). It would seem as though in both the Temp and Permanent listings, the code(s) at the end of the list is basically inserted in place of the commonly referred to, "P0300 - Random Cyl. Misfire" code. The only part that is hard for me to say for sure without physically seeing your code-reader (as though different manufacturers of code-readers display the code information with slight variance, all just correlating to that particular brand), is the 2nd and 3rd part/option of the last code: typically, no matter what brand code-reader you own, the manufacturers won't attach "options" (if you will) to any of the "generic" codes. It isn't until you start getting into the Honda/Acura-specific codes when you start to see some of the codes will have multiple different options, as far as which part of that particular system is potentially causing the fault. With that being said, the last two options of the last code doesn't have any sort of correlation to your random/multiple cyl. misfires, so it's fairly safe to make the assumption that the last code on the Temp. and Permanent lists are only specifically referring to the first possibility.

As far as the P0219 code that was logged into the memory of fault codes, that one is pretty simple and straightforward. Long story short: The RPM's (of the crank, obviously...lol) measured by the tachometer has exceeded a predetermined limit set by the manufacturer (Acura). It's pretty simple and common-sense type of details here: we all know what the redline mark of the tach is for and what it means, right? Well, when your RPM's hit redline, that is exactly the same point in time when the P0219 may be logged into vehicle’s powertrain control module.

*****Just for clarification, P0219 isn't "set-off" when you hit redline...a vast majority of the time, the code is logged due to an actual fault in the vehicle's engine speed sensor. Before throwing parts at it, try erasing the code first, then road test/drive the vehicle via your normal routine and see if the code is logged again. If it doesn't show up after being cleared, no further action is needed. If it does resubmerge after being cleared, it's recommended to replace the engine speed sensor, as it is very likely to be the culprit (as opposed to the PCM).


I hope some of that un-Godly amount of info I mentioned helps you in determining the issue and a feasible solution for you. Best of luck to ya!

 

bent valves due to over rev. previous owner screwed you (and you screwed yourself by not checking the codes before buying). good luck.

 

surprised he got 10k miles out of that car with bent valves.
Thats why I buy my used cars from old people

 

 

Have you tried simply pulling the upstream O2 sensors and going for a quick test drive (yes, it will be noisy and other codes will pop)? If the misfire problem clears up, then you have a smoking gun pointing to a clogged cat or two.

 

I have not. I’m out right now for mother’s day activities but will do this as soon as I get home. Would you recommend pulling all 3? I’m not sure of there locations and found that number on google after a quick search from a next forum so not sure if it’s the same. Thank you for the help!

 

I would only pull the two upstream sensors, the third downstream sensor won't really tell you all that much.

 

Wait!! I assume you're referring to the 3rd CAT? If so, there is no sensor for that one.

 

You got me, I was referring to the third CAT. I guess my lack of experience working on cars is showing haha. I was going to pull the O2 sensors that are located on the j-pipe but they both gave a good fight and I ended up giving up on them. I assumed pulling the sensors upstream would allow the back pressure to escape.

While I was working I decided to jack up the car and take a closer look at the 3rd CAT. I noticed just how corroded the flanges and bolts are. I think that removing the 3rd cat will most likely ruin the exhaust.