2005 TL Cold Starting Issues--Battery is new.
10-31-2017, 10:25 AM
#1
6th Gear
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2017
Age: 40
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2005 TL Cold Starting Issues--Battery is new.
Hey I am new here looking to see if anyone has had a similar issue or any insight to what my car is doing.
My TL has like 170k miles so parts are starting to go out. Recently on cooler mornings like 50 degrees my car has been taking 3 or 4 tries to start. I tested the battery it seemed fine but replaced it anyways because it was 4 years old. The car will run fine and also will start on the first time after it has been ran even for a little bit. Yesterday it took like 7 tries to fire up. I went and bought injector cleaner. It didn't seem to do much. Also starter has less then 30k on it and it is functioning.
What fuel failures or issues tend to arise with cooler weather?
Thanks for your help.
My TL has like 170k miles so parts are starting to go out. Recently on cooler mornings like 50 degrees my car has been taking 3 or 4 tries to start. I tested the battery it seemed fine but replaced it anyways because it was 4 years old. The car will run fine and also will start on the first time after it has been ran even for a little bit. Yesterday it took like 7 tries to fire up. I went and bought injector cleaner. It didn't seem to do much. Also starter has less then 30k on it and it is functioning.
What fuel failures or issues tend to arise with cooler weather?
Thanks for your help.
10-31-2017, 10:49 AM
#2
Senior Moderator
How do you know the starter is "functioning well" if the car doesn't start. Warranty it I'd you got the starter at a local parts store
10-31-2017, 11:02 AM
#3
6th Gear
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2017
Age: 40
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Fair enough question. Well I can hear the starter turning, in some cases for 3-4 seconds. I honestly can't remember whether I used OEM or aftermarket so it could be a piece of shit part. Last time my starer was going out it seems that it would hardly turn at all. Also, I could hear the starter starting to go where as this issue seemed to pop up, at least with the cold weather.
10-31-2017, 12:08 PM
#4
Registered but harmless
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Age: 59
Posts: 14,842
Received 1,102 Likes
on
763 Posts
Check for a drain on the battery when the car has been turned off for an hour.
The biggest culprit-- probably 80% of the time-- is a defective HFL/Bluetooth unit that isn't shutting down more than 30 minutes after the car is turned off.
The 2nd most likely drain issue is a defective A/C relay-- at least 10% of the time.
Welcome to AZ.
:IBmoveto3gTLforum:
The biggest culprit-- probably 80% of the time-- is a defective HFL/Bluetooth unit that isn't shutting down more than 30 minutes after the car is turned off.
The 2nd most likely drain issue is a defective A/C relay-- at least 10% of the time.
Welcome to AZ.
:IBmoveto3gTLforum:
10-31-2017, 12:30 PM
#5
Check for a drain on the battery when the car has been turned off for an hour.
The biggest culprit-- probably 80% of the time-- is a defective HFL/Bluetooth unit that isn't shutting down more than 30 minutes after the car is turned off.
The 2nd most likely drain issue is a defective A/C relay-- at least 10% of the time.
Welcome to AZ.
:IBmoveto3gTLforum:
The biggest culprit-- probably 80% of the time-- is a defective HFL/Bluetooth unit that isn't shutting down more than 30 minutes after the car is turned off.
The 2nd most likely drain issue is a defective A/C relay-- at least 10% of the time.
Welcome to AZ.
:IBmoveto3gTLforum:
This thread has been moved to the model specific forum.
10-31-2017, 12:49 PM
#6
6th Gear
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2017
Age: 40
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Check for a drain on the battery when the car has been turned off for an hour.
The biggest culprit-- probably 80% of the time-- is a defective HFL/Bluetooth unit that isn't shutting down more than 30 minutes after the car is turned off.
The 2nd most likely drain issue is a defective A/C relay-- at least 10% of the time.
Welcome to AZ.
:IBmoveto3gTLforum:
The biggest culprit-- probably 80% of the time-- is a defective HFL/Bluetooth unit that isn't shutting down more than 30 minutes after the car is turned off.
The 2nd most likely drain issue is a defective A/C relay-- at least 10% of the time.
Welcome to AZ.
:IBmoveto3gTLforum:
10-31-2017, 01:21 PM
#7
Drifting
More details on the behavior is what others are after here.
- Is the starter cranking the engine at what appears to be the normal speed?
- Does it sound like it is struggling?
- Is it purely just that the engine isn't firing?
My guess here is fuel pump related....this is pure speculation on my part....sound like the fuel pump isn't getting the system primed and up to pressure quick enough on a cold start.
- Is the starter cranking the engine at what appears to be the normal speed?
- Does it sound like it is struggling?
- Is it purely just that the engine isn't firing?
My guess here is fuel pump related....this is pure speculation on my part....sound like the fuel pump isn't getting the system primed and up to pressure quick enough on a cold start.
Trending Topics
10-31-2017, 01:34 PM
#8
Drifting
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
Age: 42
Posts: 3,490
Received 849 Likes
on
605 Posts
I experienced the same sort of thing on my 2009 Pilot for about a year. It would start, but it took 2-4 seconds of turning the engine over. Once it was warmed up, it would start fine. Like if I was in the grocery store or stopping for gas or something like that. It would only do it when completely cold. Didn't seem to matter if it was winter or summer though.
Does the car run fine after it starts? Any misfiring, hesitation, power loss or rough-idle? If so, it could be valves or incorrect timing.
There's a ton of reasons for hesitation when starting, but what it ended up being was out-of-lashes valves. At about 200K, the valvetrain was making quite a bit of noise so I did a valve adjustment. Since then it starts up right away with no hesitation. I wouldn't normally think that the valves being out a bit would cause that problem. I'm still wondering if I did something else that fixed it without knowing.
You might consider doing a general tune-up. It can't hurt, and is usually a good idea before winter. When were your spark plugs last changed? If it's been over 80K or so I'd consider new ones. Use NGK Laser Iridium. Check the contacts on all the coil packs and use electronic cleaner to clean the contacts between the coil pack and spark plugs. CRC makes some good stuff which you can get at auto parts stores. Make sure the contacts on your battery are tight and clean. I use a metal brush to polish the battery terminals and clean the connections to the car. Also make sure your ground is good - the black cable that connects to the car. Take it off and clean the connection between it and the car if needed.
For fuel, fill up with some top-tier fuel. Use premium for the TL (91 or 93 octane depending on where you are). Dump in a can of Seafoam which will help remove moisture if there's any present.
I'm hesitant to tell you to adjust the valves because it's a time-intensive job that a mechanic will charge several hundred dollars for. It would suck to have it done and not help the problem at all. However, if you've never had it done, it might be worth it. You can do it yourself, but I'd only recommend it if you're somewhat experienced with engines and mechanically inclined. It's not something you want to mess up.
Does the car run fine after it starts? Any misfiring, hesitation, power loss or rough-idle? If so, it could be valves or incorrect timing.
There's a ton of reasons for hesitation when starting, but what it ended up being was out-of-lashes valves. At about 200K, the valvetrain was making quite a bit of noise so I did a valve adjustment. Since then it starts up right away with no hesitation. I wouldn't normally think that the valves being out a bit would cause that problem. I'm still wondering if I did something else that fixed it without knowing.
You might consider doing a general tune-up. It can't hurt, and is usually a good idea before winter. When were your spark plugs last changed? If it's been over 80K or so I'd consider new ones. Use NGK Laser Iridium. Check the contacts on all the coil packs and use electronic cleaner to clean the contacts between the coil pack and spark plugs. CRC makes some good stuff which you can get at auto parts stores. Make sure the contacts on your battery are tight and clean. I use a metal brush to polish the battery terminals and clean the connections to the car. Also make sure your ground is good - the black cable that connects to the car. Take it off and clean the connection between it and the car if needed.
For fuel, fill up with some top-tier fuel. Use premium for the TL (91 or 93 octane depending on where you are). Dump in a can of Seafoam which will help remove moisture if there's any present.
I'm hesitant to tell you to adjust the valves because it's a time-intensive job that a mechanic will charge several hundred dollars for. It would suck to have it done and not help the problem at all. However, if you've never had it done, it might be worth it. You can do it yourself, but I'd only recommend it if you're somewhat experienced with engines and mechanically inclined. It's not something you want to mess up.
10-31-2017, 02:25 PM
#9
6th Gear
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2017
Age: 40
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
More details on the behavior is what others are after here.
- Is the starter cranking the engine at what appears to be the normal speed?
- Does it sound like it is struggling?
- Is it purely just that the engine isn't firing?
My guess here is fuel pump related....this is pure speculation on my part....sound like the fuel pump isn't getting the system primed and up to pressure quick enough on a cold start.
- Is the starter cranking the engine at what appears to be the normal speed?
- Does it sound like it is struggling?
- Is it purely just that the engine isn't firing?
My guess here is fuel pump related....this is pure speculation on my part....sound like the fuel pump isn't getting the system primed and up to pressure quick enough on a cold start.
10-31-2017, 02:33 PM
#10
6th Gear
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2017
Age: 40
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I experienced the same sort of thing on my 2009 Pilot for about a year. It would start, but it took 2-4 seconds of turning the engine over. Once it was warmed up, it would start fine. Like if I was in the grocery store or stopping for gas or something like that. It would only do it when completely cold. Didn't seem to matter if it was winter or summer though.
Does the car run fine after it starts? Any misfiring, hesitation, power loss or rough-idle? If so, it could be valves or incorrect timing.
There's a ton of reasons for hesitation when starting, but what it ended up being was out-of-lashes valves. At about 200K, the valvetrain was making quite a bit of noise so I did a valve adjustment. Since then it starts up right away with no hesitation. I wouldn't normally think that the valves being out a bit would cause that problem. I'm still wondering if I did something else that fixed it without knowing.
You might consider doing a general tune-up. It can't hurt, and is usually a good idea before winter. When were your spark plugs last changed? If it's been over 80K or so I'd consider new ones. Use NGK Laser Iridium. Check the contacts on all the coil packs and use electronic cleaner to clean the contacts between the coil pack and spark plugs. CRC makes some good stuff which you can get at auto parts stores. Make sure the contacts on your battery are tight and clean. I use a metal brush to polish the battery terminals and clean the connections to the car. Also make sure your ground is good - the black cable that connects to the car. Take it off and clean the connection between it and the car if needed.
For fuel, fill up with some top-tier fuel. Use premium for the TL (91 or 93 octane depending on where you are). Dump in a can of Seafoam which will help remove moisture if there's any present.
I'm hesitant to tell you to adjust the valves because it's a time-intensive job that a mechanic will charge several hundred dollars for. It would suck to have it done and not help the problem at all. However, if you've never had it done, it might be worth it. You can do it yourself, but I'd only recommend it if you're somewhat experienced with engines and mechanically inclined. It's not something you want to mess up.
Does the car run fine after it starts? Any misfiring, hesitation, power loss or rough-idle? If so, it could be valves or incorrect timing.
There's a ton of reasons for hesitation when starting, but what it ended up being was out-of-lashes valves. At about 200K, the valvetrain was making quite a bit of noise so I did a valve adjustment. Since then it starts up right away with no hesitation. I wouldn't normally think that the valves being out a bit would cause that problem. I'm still wondering if I did something else that fixed it without knowing.
You might consider doing a general tune-up. It can't hurt, and is usually a good idea before winter. When were your spark plugs last changed? If it's been over 80K or so I'd consider new ones. Use NGK Laser Iridium. Check the contacts on all the coil packs and use electronic cleaner to clean the contacts between the coil pack and spark plugs. CRC makes some good stuff which you can get at auto parts stores. Make sure the contacts on your battery are tight and clean. I use a metal brush to polish the battery terminals and clean the connections to the car. Also make sure your ground is good - the black cable that connects to the car. Take it off and clean the connection between it and the car if needed.
For fuel, fill up with some top-tier fuel. Use premium for the TL (91 or 93 octane depending on where you are). Dump in a can of Seafoam which will help remove moisture if there's any present.
I'm hesitant to tell you to adjust the valves because it's a time-intensive job that a mechanic will charge several hundred dollars for. It would suck to have it done and not help the problem at all. However, if you've never had it done, it might be worth it. You can do it yourself, but I'd only recommend it if you're somewhat experienced with engines and mechanically inclined. It's not something you want to mess up.
The car runs perfect after starting, I recently replaced the positive terminal adapter, I spliced on to OEM cable as the original one was done. I guess I need to double check the starting is getting enough power to start, though it seems the starter is spinning quite well.
I put in injection cleaner and seafoam last night. I have always used mid grade fuel, maybe it's time to bite the bullet and shell out for premium. I need to do the plugs they are cheap and easy. And I'll look into cleaning the coils too.
I am afraid it is fuel issues, potentially the pump or pressure like jackass said.
10-31-2017, 02:35 PM
#11
6th Gear
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2017
Age: 40
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
More details on the behavior is what others are after here.
- Is the starter cranking the engine at what appears to be the normal speed?
- Does it sound like it is struggling?
- Is it purely just that the engine isn't firing?
My guess here is fuel pump related....this is pure speculation on my part....sound like the fuel pump isn't getting the system primed and up to pressure quick enough on a cold start.
- Is the starter cranking the engine at what appears to be the normal speed?
- Does it sound like it is struggling?
- Is it purely just that the engine isn't firing?
My guess here is fuel pump related....this is pure speculation on my part....sound like the fuel pump isn't getting the system primed and up to pressure quick enough on a cold start.
For the pump is there any good way to diagnose this. I saw someone on youtube kicking the tank. Overall the car runs fine after starting. Is it true that more fuel pressure is required when starting?
10-31-2017, 02:50 PM
#12
Drifting
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
Age: 42
Posts: 3,490
Received 849 Likes
on
605 Posts
I haven't had to replace or do any diagnostics on fuel issue. However, I wonder if you might try pushing the engine hard up to redline to see if you get any hesitation. If the fuel pump isn't up to par, you might be able to tell by pushing the pump to the max by full throttle at high RPM's.