'07 TL Won't Start or Shift From Park
12-11-2010, 06:29 PM
#41
Team Owner
This thread will be good for future reference for sure.
12-11-2010, 06:31 PM
#42
Race Director
Try cycling your parking brake on and off a few times and then see if it will start...
Do you have a remote start installed? Any electrical mods?
If you're handy with a multimeter and want to do a couple of fairly simple troubleshooting steps while you're waiting for Tuesday to come, I can post the SM scans (2 pages). Let me know...
Do you have a remote start installed? Any electrical mods?
If you're handy with a multimeter and want to do a couple of fairly simple troubleshooting steps while you're waiting for Tuesday to come, I can post the SM scans (2 pages). Let me know...
Last edited by nfnsquared; 12-11-2010 at 06:35 PM.
12-11-2010, 06:34 PM
#43
Race Director
12-11-2010, 06:35 PM
#44
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Try cycling your parking brake on and off a few times and then see if it will start...
Do you have a remote start installed? Any electrical mods?
If you're handy with a multimeter and want to do a couple of fairly simple troubleshooting steps, I can post the SM scans (2 pages). Let me know...
Do you have a remote start installed? Any electrical mods?
If you're handy with a multimeter and want to do a couple of fairly simple troubleshooting steps, I can post the SM scans (2 pages). Let me know...
I'll try pulling the parking brake. I've got a multimeter laying around somewhere...
12-11-2010, 06:40 PM
#45
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Parking brake cycling was a no go. I guess we will have to wait and see what the diagnosis is. I've got an appt on Tuesday at the dealership, trying to get one on Monday with the other Acura dealership in the area.
12-11-2010, 06:46 PM
#46
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12-11-2010, 08:36 PM
#47
Three Wheelin'
12-11-2010, 11:55 PM
#48
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Relax techie boy. I only asked because some techs specialize in certain areas more than another. Didn't doubt your expertise, so no need to shout.
Just like a battery guy telling the OP, it sounds like car's not getting fuel. You know what I mean. No offense intended.
Very good info by the way.
What I've been throwing at the OP is based on my own experience with the TL in more occasions than I care to remember, and it was never a matter of having the keys reprogrammed. Not once.
However that doesn't exclude the fact that It may very well be the case for him.
Just like a battery guy telling the OP, it sounds like car's not getting fuel. You know what I mean. No offense intended.
Very good info by the way.
What I've been throwing at the OP is based on my own experience with the TL in more occasions than I care to remember, and it was never a matter of having the keys reprogrammed. Not once.
However that doesn't exclude the fact that It may very well be the case for him.
12-12-2010, 12:29 AM
#49
Three Wheelin'
12-12-2010, 02:50 PM
#50
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Okay...figured you guys deserved an update. I gave up for the night in diagnosing and all signs point to the Immobilizer.
- Battery is ok
- I can hear the fuel pump kick in
- Key light is solid 2 seconds and then flashes
I found this on another forum:
Hopefully, the dealer can get me that code on Monday so I can at least drive it to them instead of having it towed. Or if someone has access to Acura Tech Line and I can bribe them 
Thanks for all the help!
- Battery is ok
- I can hear the fuel pump kick in
- Key light is solid 2 seconds and then flashes
I found this on another forum:
Can the immobilizer system be cancelled? Yes, only temporarily in an emergency situation, if the customer has lost his key(s) and the car must be moved.
Important: To maintain security of the vehicle, the immobilizer cancel function can only operate with a special VIN based cancel code which can be obtained from The Acura Tech Line.
Procedure:
1. Dealer (or roadside assistance) contact Acura Tech Line with VIN to obtain key No. and cancel code.
2. Customer advised to have a key cut from a regular key blank and enter the cancel code using the ignition switch and foot-operated parking brake as follows: Example - cancel code is 54345.
a) Insert the new key in ignition switch and turn to ON (II) position. Indicator light flashes continuously after the initial 2 sec. indication.
b) Pull and hold the parking brake release lever.
c) Enter the first digit of the cancel code by pressing and releasing the parking brake pedal five times.
d) Turn the ignition to OFF position.
e) Turn the ignition to ON position and enter the second code by pressing and releasing the brake pedal four times and turn ignition OFF.
f) Repeat step (e) for the remaining three codes.
g) After entering the last digit, turn the ignition OFF, confirm that the indicator light flashes five times. If not, repeat the above procedure.
The engine can now start and run until the ignition is turned off. The immobilizer indicator light will remain ON when operated in cancel mode.
Important: The engine will start or re-start if no more than ten minutes have elapsed since switching off. The five digit code must be entered again if more than ten minutes have elapsed. This provides vehicle security.
Important: To maintain security of the vehicle, the immobilizer cancel function can only operate with a special VIN based cancel code which can be obtained from The Acura Tech Line.
Procedure:
1. Dealer (or roadside assistance) contact Acura Tech Line with VIN to obtain key No. and cancel code.
2. Customer advised to have a key cut from a regular key blank and enter the cancel code using the ignition switch and foot-operated parking brake as follows: Example - cancel code is 54345.
a) Insert the new key in ignition switch and turn to ON (II) position. Indicator light flashes continuously after the initial 2 sec. indication.
b) Pull and hold the parking brake release lever.
c) Enter the first digit of the cancel code by pressing and releasing the parking brake pedal five times.
d) Turn the ignition to OFF position.
e) Turn the ignition to ON position and enter the second code by pressing and releasing the brake pedal four times and turn ignition OFF.
f) Repeat step (e) for the remaining three codes.
g) After entering the last digit, turn the ignition OFF, confirm that the indicator light flashes five times. If not, repeat the above procedure.
The engine can now start and run until the ignition is turned off. The immobilizer indicator light will remain ON when operated in cancel mode.
Important: The engine will start or re-start if no more than ten minutes have elapsed since switching off. The five digit code must be entered again if more than ten minutes have elapsed. This provides vehicle security.
Thanks for all the help!
12-12-2010, 03:07 PM
#51
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Update #2!
I disconnected the battery for about 30 minutes. Hooked it all back up, got in, turn the key and the immobilizer light flashed and then went away. I got very excited and cranked the car...IT STARTED! I got a little too excited and put it in drive and the engine cut off. Tried it again and no dice.
Back to square one.
I disconnected the battery for about 30 minutes. Hooked it all back up, got in, turn the key and the immobilizer light flashed and then went away. I got very excited and cranked the car...IT STARTED! I got a little too excited and put it in drive and the engine cut off. Tried it again and no dice.
Back to square one.
12-15-2010, 09:44 AM
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Mine was a worst case scenario...dealer is replacing the PCM (ECU) today for just under $1000. Then they can START troubleshooting. I had no communication with the computer.
Hopefully, yours is just the immobilizer.
Hopefully, yours is just the immobilizer.
12-15-2010, 09:46 AM
#55
Race Director
12-15-2010, 09:53 AM
#57
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12-15-2010, 10:04 AM
#58
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That's crazy how they are telling you that you need to replace the ECM,
My TL is having the same symptoms as yours as well, It wont start and wont shift from park. I wonder if Acura Dealership is going to tell me the same stuff when i take mine there.
My TL is having the same symptoms as yours as well, It wont start and wont shift from park. I wonder if Acura Dealership is going to tell me the same stuff when i take mine there.
12-15-2010, 10:15 AM
#59
Race Director
Did the dealer find additional codes? What led them to the ECM without first performing the immobilizer system trouble shooting steps in the Service Manual?
How do they know it's not the immobilizer unit?
Last edited by nfnsquared; 12-15-2010 at 10:17 AM.
12-15-2010, 10:29 AM
#60
Race Director
Ask them if they've trouble shot the immobilizer system as directed by the Service Manual:
12-15-2010, 10:48 AM
#61
Race Director
It is not part of the emissions system, just like it's not part of any other system it manages....
I think you may be getting the royal BS from the dealer and/or the warranty company....
12-15-2010, 11:45 AM
#62
Three Wheelin'
The dealer is full of shit....
First, $1000 is too much for the ECM. The thing costs around 500 or so
Second, why are they replacing it? How did they determine that?
They plugged in their HDS into the DLC and they couldn't read the ECM, and that doesn't always mean that the ECM is in fact bad. Anything can cause it to disable itself and shut down, and when that happenes, the DLC dies with it, and they don't communicate. So plugging anything in the DLC won't access the ECM.
First they should replace the ECM with a good known unit, reprogram the Immobilizer, and Vin and see if that works...If the same thing happens than its not your ECM, but something else. But not tell you they gotta replace it, then make you pay for it.
They're doing trial and error at your cost.
Even if its not the ECM, they will find the prob, and still tell you it was the ECM, bcs well, its a 1000 fucking dollars.
They should start troubleshooting now, and find out why there's no communication with the ECM, and not do it after. That doesn't make sense to me...replace parts unknowingly then troubleshoot. Instead of troubleshoot, locate bad parts, replace them.
This is why I have 0 respect for dealer service depts. I feel bad for people that swallow everything thrown at them.
First, $1000 is too much for the ECM. The thing costs around 500 or so
Second, why are they replacing it? How did they determine that?
They plugged in their HDS into the DLC and they couldn't read the ECM, and that doesn't always mean that the ECM is in fact bad. Anything can cause it to disable itself and shut down, and when that happenes, the DLC dies with it, and they don't communicate. So plugging anything in the DLC won't access the ECM.
First they should replace the ECM with a good known unit, reprogram the Immobilizer, and Vin and see if that works...If the same thing happens than its not your ECM, but something else. But not tell you they gotta replace it, then make you pay for it.
They're doing trial and error at your cost.
Even if its not the ECM, they will find the prob, and still tell you it was the ECM, bcs well, its a 1000 fucking dollars.
They should start troubleshooting now, and find out why there's no communication with the ECM, and not do it after. That doesn't make sense to me...replace parts unknowingly then troubleshoot. Instead of troubleshoot, locate bad parts, replace them.
This is why I have 0 respect for dealer service depts. I feel bad for people that swallow everything thrown at them.
12-15-2010, 12:21 PM
#63
Team Owner
I admittedly didn't read the rest of this thread but if they're trying to screw you with the emissions thing, remind them that every car is covered to at least 80,000 miles under emissions warranty. It might even be 100,000 now.
12-15-2010, 02:06 PM
#64
Race Director
^^^Another good point. Aaron, I'd get the Service Manager on the phone and get him to explain exactly how they arrived at the conclusion that the PCM had to be replaced at your expense.
12-16-2010, 01:53 AM
#65
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I agree with everyones posts above.... This makes no sense at all.... if we All came to the conclusion that the OP's problem is the immobilizer, which i have the same problem as well... and i know for a fact it is. How in the world does the dealer just tell you its the ECU/ECM ? they are just trying to make an extra buck off of you...
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no
that shows you how much a 2004 TL ECU is 631 dollars, thats OEM price not even STREET price...
I'm pretty sure with everyone else it is your immobilizer that is causing the problem, and the Acura dealer is trying to take advantage of your problem.
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no
that shows you how much a 2004 TL ECU is 631 dollars, thats OEM price not even STREET price...
I'm pretty sure with everyone else it is your immobilizer that is causing the problem, and the Acura dealer is trying to take advantage of your problem.
02-19-2011, 06:27 AM
#67
10th Gear
I know this a two month old thread but what the hell happened i read all two pages to be left in the dark this is wrong i got blue balls know from this thread....
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