Hello all,

This is my first post here, as I just became a new owner of a 6spd 07 TL Type S in Carbon Bronze Pearl.

I was looking for a 6spd in Carbon Bronze for some time before I found this. Got it Certified from a dealer in the DC area. I live in Dallas. Yes, I went almost 1400 miles to get this car (shows how much I wanted it J).

Anyways...I am not too thrilled to have my first post here discussing the problems I am having with it already. But from reading several threads here on/off for the past week or so, I thought I would discuss the issues with you all and get feedback from the current owners/experts. I am especially interested to hear from owners of the same car and see if they have experienced similar issues.

First of all I got the car with 35,000 miles on it for $24,000, how did I do?

Now the issues:
1)Clutch grinding causing the car to vibrate:
I experience this is lower gears, mostly 2nd and 3rd when shifting, more noticeable when shifting down from 4 > 3 or 3 > 2. If I let off the clutch very quickly, I don’t feel it. I only feel it when letting off gently. The issue does not happen when the car is cold. Have to drive it for about 15 mins to really feel this.
2)Loud THUMP type noise from the rear suspension:
This is only noticeable when going over speed-bumps or a very bumpy road.

3)Passenger side windshield trim (the rubber part) being inward and is likely the cause of excessive wind noise at highway speeds.

4)Light vibration when parked but keeping the engine revved to 1,000 RPM

I took it into the dealership last week for the first three issues (not too concerned about the 4th right now). They had the car for about half a day and said no issues found.
I drove it for about another week, and found the same issues. Couple days ago I was stuck in traffic and was constantly shifting in lower gears...and constantly felt the vibration, and it drove me crazy, so I took it back to the dealership. They had it all day today and said they are going to replace the rear struts and fix the windshield trim, however they don’t think anything is wrong with the transmission, although they said one of the two guys who tested it did feel a little vibration. They are going to order parts and have it fixed by Monday and then they asked me to drive it with them so I can show them the vibration issues at that time.
Any input from current owners, or experts would be appreciated.

 

Ok, first the TL has a check valve that makes the clutch engauge more softly to save wear and tear on the parts. If the issue is in the tranny, changing the fluid to the GM syncromesh have help alot of people. The issues with the rear suspension sound like something the dealer should fix.

 

Clutches don't grind - unless there is really something strange and unusual going on. And you should not be letting the clutch engage slowly and gently when downshifting. That tells me you're not double clutching your downshifts (another topic). Can you elaborate a bit more on this problem?

Thumping from your rear suspension? Perhaps a failing strut or such (I am certainly not that well versed in suspension components).

 

Hi Speed: I did read some threads discussing GM fluid, however I am just not too sure why I would need this in my car vs the Acura recommended. I remember, I once put a generic brand tranny oil into my auto accord, and it wouldn't shift into first. I know this is manual but how do I know this wont be harmfull in the long run. Sorry about the ignorance, but I'm still new to this

SouthernBoy: I am definately not double clutching. When downshifting, I engage the clutch and let off the gas. Then shift into the lower gear and while letting off the clutch I apply a little gas. I will test doubleshifting once I get the car from the dealer and see if I notice the same thing. Is the vibration due to the shifting technique or possibly something wrong internally?

 

As far as the GM fluid it is much higher quality and makes the car shift much more easily.
I as well as most of those with 6 speeds on this site are using it. I have been using it since 15k and I'm a 70k now with nothng but good things to say, others have used it since new with no reported issues. Search 3rd gear issue for 3rd gen TL's, many people have switched to the GM stuff to avoid having the 3rd gear syncros replaced.

This is not the thing Acura is going to do for you, but it isn't that hard and the 3g garage has do it yourself directions.

 

OP-

Like everyone is saying, you should def change your trans fluid to GM Syncromesh FM. It can solve a lot of issues with the 3G 6MTs (3rd gear grind/falling out, stiff shifts when cold, ect). If you have any questions, search the topic. It's been beat to death, but there's a lot of good info

As for your suspension, is the sound more like a hollow thunk sound? If so, it's probably a blown strut. Depending on your VIN, you might be within range of the service bulletin for earlier 07 S's with this complaint. I have replaced a few struts at work on them for the bulletin, and a few on some higher mileage 3G TLs (04-06). I personally never had any problem bc I am out of the range for the VIN and plus I have A-Spec suspension anyway.

Is the vibration at idle only when the engine is cold/warming up? Or is it anytime you're at idle?

 

I just had a rear strut replaced in my '07 TL under warranty. Strut failures seem like a common problem based on comments on this forum.

 

If you're doing this you could experience some jerkiness or shuttering, but if the clutch is in good condition, then jerking is the only thing you might expect. Which leads me to suspect, after having just reread your original post, that the previous owner(s) may have been hard on the clutch either through ignorance or deliberate action. You could have some scoring on your flywheel and/or pressure plate and perhaps some damage to the friction material on your friction disk (i.e. clutch disk). Is the clutching action smooth and precise under most every other driving situation?

If you have adapted your "shifting technique" to your car and all is generally well in that area, then the problem is going to be internal.

 

I just went by the dealer as they said the car should be ready by EOD. When I got there, they had already replaced the shocks, but the passanger side trim that runs from the windshiled all the way back had not yet been replaced. They will do this Monday.

I can definatly try this. How about the warranty? If something later on down the road goes wrong with the tranny for other reasons and I dont have records...will that affect the warranty? I have 100K btb warranty so I will want to take full advantange of it if needed.


They have already replaced the shocks, so we'll see how it performs when I get it on Monday. The vibration issue around 1000 RPM is something I need to test again. I will check it out when cold and warmed up and reply.

Once in a while I get a little hesitation with shifting it into gear, like being a little jerkey, but mostly it's good. I also think that either from the begining there was an issue with the tranny or the previous owner did not know what they were doing because I just checked the carfax on it again and found that it was in for clutch checkup at just 4,000 miles, then for tranny checkup at 21,000 and 23,000.

The service manager is going to test drive it with me on Monday. I am hoping they find something, because there is definately something up.

 

There is no way for them to know what fluid you have in the tranny, it's the same color as the OEM fluid and would only fail if it all leaked out. When I was at Chevy picking up some fluid the parts guy said he has people with all type and makes of cars buying it. I have had nothing but luck with it even with the added stress of the supercharger.

Good to hear Acura is fixing it all for you.

 

Actually the GM Syncromesh FM is quite darker then Honda/Acura's MTF. Acura's stuff is almost clear, with a slight yellow hue to it. GM's stuff is much more darker.

But yeah, it's liquid gold for our trans. Took care of the grinds in my old Integras, and took care of the third gear problem in my 07 TL-S as well (put it in at about 5,000 miles? And I have 53,000 on it now, no probs )

 

let us know what the dealer finds on your trans when you ride with them

 

Hey, just another opinion here: I personally wouldn't jump on the GM synchro-awesomeness just yet.
A) my service advisor and head mechanic at the local dealership said that it will void the tranny warranty if they discover that I didn't use honda juice in the tranny.
B) that oil seems to be fix issues with gear shifting (particularly going into 3rd), stuff you feel in the stick. From what I understood, you're having more issues with the clutch gripping/studdering.

good luck with your TL-S

 

Got the car back yesterday. They replaced both the rear sturts and the passenger side trim. I had to jet out of town shortly after that so haven't got a chance to really test the suspension.

The service manager test drove with me and I was able to show him the vibration when downshifing into 3rd and 2nd and he did agree that something was going on. He said to bring the car back when I get back and he'll have one of the techs look at it. The tech can then collaborate with other shops and Acura to see if they've seen this before because he was not aware of what the issue may be.

I'll keep you guys posted....thanks for the replys!

 

I know this has been dead for a few months now, mostly because of work related traveling and just finding the time to take the car into the dealer
But I now have most of the stuff worked out and wanted to update you all.


The suspension is quieter than before, but still kinda loud in my opinion, mostly only when going over speed bumps one side at a time. Maybe that’s just the way it's meant to be , so not worrying about it too much.

For the transmission issue, they ended up replacing the clutch disc, pressure plate, flywheel, and release bearing. For the cause of the vibration/grinding they said is because "the clutch shudders after it gets hot"...does this sound familiar to anyone?? (the issue did only occur when the car was hot). I took some pics of the old parts. Since this is my first time seeing this, idk if someone here can tell by looking at the pics if something was obviously wrong?

The day I got the car back, I noticed a difference from the first time I pressed the clutch. It was very light and the shifts were very smooth. However, over the next couple weeks the clutch got heavier (harder) and the shifts became harsher. It's now been over a month. Although I don’t have the grinding/vibration issue, but the gearbox does not seem right. It's sometimes harsh (clunky) when shifting...just not as smooth as it was first couple of weeks.

So, can it be that it was just smoother because the tranny fluid was new at the time?

 

Got some hot spots on the flywheel which would cause the shuddering you are feeling. Car might have been abused a little or someone who didn't know how to drive a manual very well. I would do the GM fluid now and it should resolve your rough shifting issues.

 

+1 on the GM synchromesh friction modified fluid

 

The flywheel seems to have what appears to be pitting or perhaps rust spots. It's possible, the car could have been driven through relatively high water which could have caused this. This happened to a 1994 Honda Accord EX I once had.

The pressure plate has similar evidence plus possible scoring. I also would suggest doing a drain and fill with the GMSFM fluid. Note, it's part number is 12377916.

 

Thanks!

I've been reading on the forums a lot and it appears most people are using the GM fluid, so I think I'm gonna give it a try. Anyone experience any problems or drawbacks with using it?

Do I get this from a GM dealership?

 

+1 on GM Synchromesh fluid .. it does wonders for Honda transmissions.

 

There have not been any complaints that I can recall with GMSFM fluid. I have used it since 15,000 miles on my '04 TL (I am the original owner). I never had any of the problems others have reported before switching over to the GM product, so I cannot attest to how my car's transmission would have done over the years (I now have 76,450 miles on it). However, I suspect my manual operating techniques are in large part the cause of my lack of problems.

Yes, you should be able to find GMSFM fluid at Chevrolet dealers and maybe even Cadillac dealers as well. If not, you can get it on line. It is expensive and you will need three quarts. A drain and file takes 2.3 quarts - that's 2 quarts, 10 ounces rounded.

 

OK, looks like GM fluid it is. I will try to drain and fill this weekend

 

Please let us know your results!! As a new owner of a 6MT Type-S myself, I will probably be switching fluids when I remove the restrictor valve from my slave cylinder. Good luck.