Hey guys tell me what ya'll think of this spark plug. I have 56,000 miles on my TL and i took this SP out today to look at the condition of them and i don't think they're doing to good. I have never changed them before so most likely these are the orginal NGK's. Let me know guys! Oh, and just so all you know this is my first real new thread, so take it easy on me alrite!

 

They look ok from what I can see in the picture. I would check the gap and put them back in. The gap is supposed to be .044". They are not due to be replaced untill around 100k. Why did you remove them? Were you having a problem?

 

Only reason why I removed that one was just to check on the condition of that particular one. No other reason.
Also, i have lately been burning more fuel then usual so i that's where i should check first, the Spark Plugs.
If I replaced these spark plugs, which ones would i go with? Either Iridium's or Double Platinum's right? I'm not a big fan of Denso's, i had alot of problems with them in my GST.
Thnx

 

lol..... That was a DSM problem not a Denso one. j/k

I like NGK's or Denso Iridiums. The Denso Iridiums are stock on the RSX type S. Your plugs look fine. BTW when you replace them put a small amount of anti-sieze on the threads if you don't do it already you should really start to.

 

100k miles or not. Spark plus are relatively inexpensive. Max you will probably spend is $100 (iridiums) and you can throw in the NGK vpowers for around $15 - $20. I would never wait till 100k miles to change them out.

 

USE ONLY NGK IX IRIDIUM or NGK Platinum
no other fancy names or extra electrodes on the TL please

100k is really stretching it- look at the severe service schedule for most Earth driven vehicles
Many are replacing theirs at 60k and seeing mileage improvements
Gas is expensive- the right plugs are available at major store like Kragen for 6something$ each
Under 40-45$ for the whole set- pays you back fast!
Read and do the Seafoam treatment as per thread Seafoamed the Ol TL in gen2
to clean the whole system- get one can for intake vac and 1 for 1/4 tank of gas to clean injectors- 6 bucks a can- parts store

 

Um, Denso's are really good too. Honda uses them from the factory as well. I love NGK's and personally I think the platinums are a waste of money from NGK. Get the same if not better performance out of the NGK Vpowers for less ( i have run vpowers in all my cars from honda's to subarus). My DC5 came with the Denso's and when it's time to change them they will probably either get the same plugs or the new Denso Racing Iridium plugs. Might not last as long but if you do your own maint. then who cares. If you just drive it like an old geezard and you are worried about gas mileage then go with the platinums I guess. Seeing that they will last longer than the copper Vpowers.If performance is a goal and you are running bolt-ons you can also try going 1 step colder as most turbo owners do.

People need to be careful using seafoam if they have never done it before. You also should change your oil the same day and not drive more than 50 miles with that stuff in the oil. It destroys and breaks down the oil. Not to mention if you have a high mileage car it can break large parts of carbon off and cause problems. Hell even the president of Spoon Sports says you should never flush your engine because it can do more harm than good. I have used seafoam with ok results before on a couple of friends car. Personally I would use the Auto RX stuff myself. Better results with less risk of damage.

 

I replaced mine at 48K. Idled better especially when cold. Gas mileage seems a little better but it's too soon to get an accuarate average. One step colder helped with the surging problem I was having but this car has an appetite for octane for some reason... Got to figure that one out. I would never go 100K on a set of plugs. The car will probably still run but it will be far from it's best.

 

Densos are approved for the TL- but they last about 30k miles and thats it.
The NGKs will go 100k (doesnt hurt to replace after 60k)- the car comes with NGK Platinums - the Iridium is a space age metal that may be better than the Platinum-everyone who tries them likes them

Stick with approved plugs for non turbo modified cars
read the label under the hood
Most people decide leaning over the engine to do the back plugs wasn't that much fun, and never doing it again will be fine~

The type of person who belongs to azine keeps their oil changed and car in good condition, so a Seafoam treatment is not going to hurt anything- we are not talking about an 80 chevy 350 with 300k being held together by carbon and sludge.
Acura now recommends fuel injection system cleaning every 15k, do it at home and save big $. Gas byproducts clog the valve edges and piston tops
It turns out that even the stuff in oil was bad for hi mileage cats- so formulas now say EPA suchandsuch
The crankcase/oil cleaning does not have to be done at the same time.
For this post- I was talking only of gas tank and vac line to manifold method

Oil method does clean the tiny passages in our engines and the filter picks up the crud. Some drive 15 minutes and change oil. I let it idle for 5-10 minutes and then change oil at home. Did it twice when I bought the car and everything looks good and runs nice now a year later.

 

The ~normal~ maitenance schedule says 100
The Severe or Earth driven vehicles it says 60k

What octane are you needing hatecars? we can only get 91 here at sea-level

(crowd in backgound chanting SeafoamSeafoamSeafoam)

 

94 almost cured the surging. 100 took care of it. I'm chasing some other problem right now. Not fuel because the surging is under vtec and it runs fine at WOT. Just wants to ping under light/moderate load and low rpms. Just changed the plugs and oil so I'm going to wait on the Seafoam until next oil change. And also once I take care of the cats....

 

I know how to use seafoam. I have always run it through the vacuum line when I have done it for people. Still don't think I would do it on my car. Like I said Auto RX seems like a better option than seafoam. Pouring seafoam straight into the crankcase could possibly hydrolock the motor. That's why when you put it through the vacuum line you have to keep the car idling at 2500-3k rpm and you do so with a very small atomized amount of fluid as to not stall or hydrolock the motor.

Then again personally if the man whom created Spoon Sports says that engine cleanings aren't a good thing I will take his advice over anyone on a forum do to his experience.

LOL.... at Denso's only lasting 30k miles. There are people all over club rsx and honda-tech that have gotten over 100k miles on their Denso's. Even though I have almost always used NGK's spreading info that denso's are only going to last about 30k miles is total BS.


Platinum plugs don't give you better performance over copper or iridium plugs. They give you longer life. Iridium gives you better life and better performance so a best of both worlds type of thing.

If you are running mods (bolt on) it's not going to hurt by going to a 1 step colder plug. If anything for you unlucky folks that only get 91 octane you could actually benefit from a 1 step colder plug. Especially if you are running mods that lean you out like an intake and high flow cats.

Acura also recommends that you wait at least 5k miles before you change the factory fill. You can do so if you want but UOA's have proven that the factory fill is at the end of it's life by 3k and sometimes even sooner.

 

I will wait for OUR Moderator and Gen2 GURU, fsttyms1, to get around to this thread and inpart his wisdom. I will take HIS word ON THESE PARTICULAR CARS over some guy who started a company

I know the guy who started Redline Oil, and the guy who started Amsoil-Mr Amazutto, so what, dont use either in the TL. The snowmobile and the boat are a different matter~

 

Pouring it into the crankcase WONT hydrolock the motor! Its not going into the cylinders where it would hydrolock it. Ive used it for over 250k on my car no issues. 1 can into the crankcase 30 min before oilchange, one thru the vacuum line (almost never a need to rev motor to keep it going) and one in the fuel tank.

Thats a naive statement. Any proof or reasoning behind his statement? cleaning deposits out of a motor (if its well kept) is a good thing. The motor will run better and last longer.


Oh yea? do a little internet research. Its known that the denso iridiums dont last long. I typically get about 40k out of mine (and thats mostly hwy driven) and thats when the mileage starts to drop, idle gets rougher and responsiveness starts to drop.

 

http://youtube.com/watch?v=6PCbdTO97bA

The entire video is informative and worth it however, if you want to cut to the chase 3:40 into the video it talks about engine flushing. That is essentially what Seafoam does.

 

Maybe you are lucky but we have always needed to keep the motor reved to keep it from dying when we have used seafoam or the BG stuff. I also used a special tool designed specifically for this as to make sure that a small amount enters the motor instead of a lot at one time as to also prevent it from stalling.

Maybe a naive statement. But coming from a man that has nothing but a racing background seems to be a bit more of a reliable source. Wouldn't you say so?

IF IT'S ON THE INTERNET IT MUST BE TRUE!!! lol.... j/k

I've done research. I have also seen many of threads where people are saying that they changed their factory Denso's at 80 and 100k miles and they still looked fine. Needed to be changed but they didn't look all f'ed up.

Most people like myself always change their plugs earlier than the 100k miles that acura claims the plug will go. Then again I drive the shit out of my cars too. Like I said I have pretty much always run NGK's and I prefer the V-powers over all the others due to the performance aspects and cheap cost $3 a plug vs $22 for an iridium plug. I can change out my plugs a few times for the cost of 1 time with the iridium. My experience with Denso's is relatively new but I have read a lot of threads about them and more than enough of them have been positive reviews.

If you get so little life out of them why continue to use them? You don't have to. You can use NGK's just the same.

I'm not new to cars and have built a few cars over the years so I don't normally come in just talking nonsense. I usually only open my mouth or in this case pull the keyboard closer to me when I know what I am talking about or have a strong opinion. Whether that be from personal experience throughout the years or lot's of research.

 

You must shop at the dealer because Kragen and most major parts store carry the correct NGK Iridiums for under 7$ each
thats under 45$ with tax in most states for a set of 6

 

Sorry I should of clarified as I was refering to the Denso Iridiums. Think the cheapest I found them they were around $15 or $17ea.. Cheapest from the dealers online they are around $22ea. Not sure about the NGK iridiums as I have yet to run them. I just assumed they are around the same price. Just went to AdvanceAutoParts.com and they have the NGK Laser Iridiums for about $10ea. Not a bad deal I guess.

 

that video didnt have any real good info in it. All common sense.

racing back ground or not doesnt mean hes the final say. Every one has different opinions on things. Race motors have different needs and are less subject to needing internal cleaning due to deposit buildups from every day stop and go driving. If done routinely you wont have to worry about things being dislodged and causing damage.

I never said because its on the internet its true!!! I said to do some research on the internet. Most will tell you that they done last as long. There is a HUGE difference between looking good and performing at their optimum. Dont get me wrong, They are a great plug, just their life isnt as long as others. I use whats available. I usually get the bug up my butt out of nowhere and decide to change them. That is often on a sat or sun when the dealer is closed and the part store is open(and the part stores around me usually dont have the ngk instock) . Me using them is more a case of me not planing ahead. I prefer the NGK because foe me they typically last twice as long before exhibiting the same symptoms.

I also speak from real life experience. and am not new to cars, ive built up many cars myself, many swaps, logged over a million miles driving already. Look at my background on this forum. (im also a believer in 3k oil changes being a waste of money and oil)

 

I get my densos at autozone for usually under 10 bucks each

 

Not saying he is the final say. I would however say that Spoon and Mugen probably know more and have more experience with Honda engines than almost anyone other than Honda themselves. So that being said as they are Icons in the Honda world their input means a lot more than say something I may have just read on the net. Maybe you see where I coming from with my logic. Now I am not saying that they are the only companies. Because there are numberous tuners and engine builders with an awesome reputation in the Honda community ie, Hytech, J's Racing, Toda, Junk2 (sorry Skunk2), Hondata, Church Automotive, Inline Pro and the list could be endless.

However, I am a believer that doing seafoam is unnecessary as well as long as routine maint. is something one stays on top of starting at day 1. Using top tier premium gasolines doesn't hurt anything either. I have had several friends with Honda's that have gone well over 200k miles with no problems. They stuck to 3k mile oil changes and all the other routine maint. I will probably never see anykind of mileage like this because well I don't keep cars long enough (on my 10th car).


I was being sarcastic when I said if it's on the internet it must be true. Hence the reason I said lol and j/k. Doesn't really matter though.

Sounds like we have some things in common while both being stubborn. I live by the good "old" rule of thumb to change your oil every 3k miles. Maybe it is a waste of money and maybe I could go longer but it gives me a peice of mind changing it every 3k miles that allows me to sleep better. I know oils are better now than the pretty much ever have been and I am constantly looking at UOA's and VOA's to see what dino oil is damn near matching that of synthetics (or coming close to them that is) I have done a couple swappped cars myself and a couple turbo cars. Been modding cars since I could drive basically.

 

When i pulled my motor out at a lil over 200k on the TL for my 6 speed swap, it had dont 8k oil changes for the first 100k on Dino oil then went to 8 to 15k intervals the 2nd 100k on syn. Had the oil tested the the whole time about every other oil change. The results kept me doing it. I pulled the heads off and the original crosshatching is still in the cyl walls. (and i seafoamed every time(except for the times i would send off oil samples id take the sample first then add the seafoam) Over kill?? maybe but the car was better at 200k than the day i bought it. I cant say there was any thing wrong with using it.

 

The problem most of us face is not being the first owner and always using the good gas
Thats what fuel cleaners are for!
Get it in shape and keep that way!

 

Do I have to change the motor oil, the spark plugs and the air filter after a seafoam treatment????

 

^^^ just the oil. yet if you have 100k miles on the plugs or close to it you might as well change them too. How many miles since the last air filter replacement?

Why are you seafoaming the engine in the first place? I could understand doing so on an older car but I wouldn't do so on the TL. Just my

 

I personally don't like seafoam treatments. If the car has a ton of miles and carbon buildup in the combustion chamber causing detonation, maybe. It would be better to keep oil changes regular and add a fuel system cleaner every so often.

 

The engine builders in the group should be the most aware of the normal operation of combustion causes some exhaust blowby - past the rings and into the oil.
Where it cruds up some very small passages, and MAY be of issue to engines where vtec runs off oil pressure changes...
I want all my internal parts clean as possible.
You tube has an interesting boroscope camera view of before during and after using a cleaning system.
There is bad stuff in gas- bad things created as a result of combustion...
A TL even likes to plug the egr ports in the intake manifold!!!!
I use different products- seeing what works for me in this particular car, and my opine is that SOMETHING is better than nothing.

 

Ah, Seafoam in the oil isn't so bad. I was thinking of using it in the intake stream to clean the combustion chambers.

I agree with what you said but with a good quality oil and a decent change interval, seafoam would probably never be required.

From tearing engines down, the worst spot for sludge and debris seems to be on top of the head. I always glance through the oil fill in the valvecover and mine still looks brand new. Usually but not always, if that area looks good, the rest will look as good or better.

As much as we all worry about our engines, the fact is, the body will probably fall apart around the motor lol.

 

Everyone is different- I think using it is good- and watching the borscope videos proves it for me- the seat of the pants dyno says good to do as well
Modern gas is so full of crud that on a TL- its a good idea to do.
More reasons than I care to type now- its all been said-
you dont have to use anything if you dont want to
OR you can use everything and post your results

 

I changed my Iridiums the other day at 94k miles (believed to be original) and i was surprised at what good shape they were in for being that used. The new NGK Iridiums werent cheap at all but worth it imo.

 

how much do u paid for the plugs