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My daughters car was driving and idling rough, it seemed like it was a O2 Sensor because how it was acting. I took it to the auto parts to read the code. and it came back with the following
I am thinking the misfires are because the spark plugs points are almost gone. I hope by changing them with new ones it fixes those misfires. What are the P0762 & P0776, what is the part numbers for these and where are they located?
I really appreciate any help, thanks.
Error codes
P0305 misfire no.5
P0762 Shift Solenoid Valve C Stuck on
P0302 misfire no.2
P0303 misfire no.3
P0300 Random misfire
P0301 misfire no.1
P0305 misfire no.5
P0762 Shift Solenoid valve C Stuck on
P0302 misfire no.2
P0303 misfire no.3
P0300 random misfire
P0301 misfire no.1
P0304 misfire no.4
P0306 misfire no.6
P0776 Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid valve B stuck off
Yup i have check the bat and alternator they are good.
I will replace the spark plugs, but as i mentioned the center electrode at the end were pretty much gone.
I am looking to see where the clutch pressure control solenoid valve and shift solenoid valve are located and part numbers so i can replace them.
I forgot to mention that my the VISA, check engine and the triangle with exclamation point(VSA) was on while driving and the car dash shift indicator "D" was flashing while driving.
I parked and turn off the car then restarted the car and no VISA light and no blinking/flashing of the car dash shift indicator "D" flashing.
I would really appreciate all the help, i need to get this car back on the road for her.
Thanks.
P0776 it would be the Solenoid Assembly, Linear - part Acura (28250-P7W-003)
And the Shift Solenoid valve C is part Acura (28500-P6H-013)
Sorry for multiple post but i am trying to figure out what the part numbers are and the location of these.
Are these right? Not sure where or what the shift solenoid valve c looks like in the engine, anyone?
so how do buy them of rock auto if they are different, they don't see them in a pack just individually as far as i can tell?
I was trying to look in the service manual on how to test the coils but i can't find what page this is on, what is the ohms its suppose to be at?
I am going to test the pressure control solenoid and the shift solenoid valve C but what gauge of wire to need to be able to connect the batter?
so how do buy them of rock auto if they are different, they don't see them in a pack just individually as far as i can tell?
I was trying to look in the service manual on how to test the coils but i can't find what page this is on, what is the ohms its suppose to be at?
I am going to test the pressure control solenoid and the shift solenoid valve C but what gauge of wire to need to be able to connect the batter?
I always pulled connection to the coil pack to see if it's bad.Idk about these coil packs but in most of my other cars I just pulled the coil apart and replace the fuse inside.These are just suggestions thou .best of luck bro!
I just changed the plugs this last June, so maybe 3K miles (NGK 6994). When i took them out i was very surprised on how the electrode was gone. when i changed them in June they look good. Then again i have never changed the coils. I did pull coils until i didn't get a change in acceleration, coil 5 did not had no change in idle when it was pulled all the other coils did change idle when they were pulled.
I also drained my trans fluid, the drain plug has gunk on it like usual but i didn't see any big chunks of metal shavings when i ran the fluid through a painters filter. There were about 5-7 small round metal about the size of 1-2 mm in the bottom of the oil drain pan that i used to catch the trans fluid.
I just changed the plugs this last June, so maybe 3K miles (NGK 6994). When i took them out i was very surprised on how the electrode was gone. when i changed them in June they look good. Then again i have never changed the coils. I did pull coils until i didn't get a change in acceleration, coil 5 did not had no change in idle when it was pulled all the other coils did change idle when they were pulled.
I also drained my trans fluid, the drain plug has gunk on it like usual but i didn't see any big chunks of metal shavings when i ran the fluid through a painters filter. There were about 5-7 small round metal about the size of 1-2 mm in the bottom of the oil drain pan that i used to catch the trans fluid.
Forgot to mention the car has 248K miles.
I'm at 229,000 miles still running strong on rideshare.I would replace that coil thou,but of course a full tune-up is the best.
did you buy plugs online? You may have gotten fakes... I got fake ones that did the same exact thing from ebay. real vs fakes: Real have ///Japan/// vs fakes llll Japan llll
did you buy plugs online? You may have gotten fakes... I got fake ones that did the same exact thing from ebay. real vs fakes: Real have ///Japan/// vs fakes llll Japan llll
That's exactly what mine looked like when I pulled them out. Yup I got that set off ebay but this time i purchased from my local auto parts store.
Thanks for the reply!
I pulled the Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid valve and cleaned it the screen was fine, it was not plugged. I also removed the front Shift Solenoid Valve C(the front one, so i am not sure if this is it, it is hard to tell) and cleaned them. I also tested them based on the how the service manual indicated, connect the plug to a batter. I did here the clicking nose on both solenoids and the both have 5.3 ohms. I took the car for a drive and noticed that the car would only shift to first and second, the car wouldn't shift to 3rd or 4th. I found someone that stated that the car goes into limp mode because there is electrical/fluid issue so the trannie computer detected and changes the tranie to safe mode. So could this be the 3rd & 4th gear pressure switch? even though the code is not telling me this?
P0776 it would be the Solenoid Assembly, Linear - part Acura (28250-P7W-003)
And the Shift Solenoid valve C is part Acura (28500-P6H-013)
Sorry for multiple post but i am trying to figure out what the part numbers are and the location of these.
Are these right? Not sure where or what the shift solenoid valve c looks like in the engine, anyone?
My daughters car was driving and idling rough, it seemed like it was a O2 Sensor because how it was acting. I took it to the auto parts to read the code. and it came back with the following
I am thinking the misfires are because the spark plugs points are almost gone. I hope by changing them with new ones it fixes those misfires. What are the P0762 & P0776, what is the part numbers for these and where are they located?
I really appreciate any help, thanks.
Error codes
P0305 misfire no.5
P0762 Shift Solenoid Valve C Stuck on
P0302 misfire no.2
P0303 misfire no.3
P0300 Random misfire
P0301 misfire no.1
P0305 misfire no.5
P0762 Shift Solenoid valve C Stuck on
P0302 misfire no.2
P0303 misfire no.3
P0300 random misfire
P0301 misfire no.1
P0304 misfire no.4
P0306 misfire no.6
P0776 Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid valve B stuck off
So after testing the Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid valve and Shift Solenoid valve C based on how the service manual indicated i have concluded that the service manual may not be correct.
I did hear clicking when testing both the Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid valve and Shift Solenoid valve C which the service manual states if you hear clicking with Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid valve it is ok, if no clicking the issues is PCM. I took a chance and bought a new solenoid and installed it and now the car drives fine.
The Shift Solenoid Valve C Stuck on error went away once the Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid valve was replaced.
My miss fire was because of bad coil.
Hopefully this helps someone out.
10-23-2019, 09:25 PM
