Snapped a few shots of my TL-S...suggestions on angles/composition?
05-24-2009, 10:45 PM
#43
This car is my commuter, and takes me through several of LA's freeways, so going too low is out of the question, for now - I've got my eyes on another car for a DD.
How's the project Integra? Keeping it stock?
anything transpire with the van?
08-04-2009, 12:22 AM
#48
After a weekend of washing, clay bar, Klasse AIO, Klasse High Gloss Sealant, and Pinnacle Souveran.
Not the "wow" factor I was expecting, even under better lighting conditions.
The dog seems to like it...
Not the "wow" factor I was expecting, even under better lighting conditions.
The dog seems to like it...
Last edited by marmaladedad; 08-04-2009 at 12:24 AM.
08-05-2009, 07:37 PM
#49
Racer
Great looking car there. I'm not a big fan of dark wheels (funny since mine are gunmetal/black), but adding the suspension really makes it work whereas it didn't do anything for me "lifted".
Since you specifically asked for the photog advice, I'll throw a bit out there. I'm no expert, but here are a few things I've picked up on.
-Pick a better location for a background. The background is as much a part of the photo as the car, so don't just park it at the curb and expect to have a nice photo. Parking garage shots are common because an empty one gives enough of an industrial look that goes with cars, some architectural elements of pillars, no distracting things in the background like power wires, random weeds, etc.
-Cir-PL: This filter is a MUST for auto photog for cutting the reflections off the windows or sides as you see fit. I usually set mine so that you can see through the windshield. Some overachievers will even layer two shots with the reflections off the hood/windshield and a second with it off the side. I haven't done that yet myself, but I really should.
-Shoot in RAW. It has made a big difference to me for adjusting white balance and fine tuning exposure when the camera doesn't get it quite right.
-Try to get out of direct sun when possible. So when the sun isn't visable but is still light outside (yes, you'll want a tripod), shade, or cloudy days (a huge softbox covering the entire sky). You will cut down on hot spots, and your color will look more vibrant. Most of the time there is sun, so to expose properly at lease make sure both visable side (ie. front and side) are both in the light. If one is on a shaded side, you'll never get it exposed right.
-composition:
a. This goes back to background. You should include more of the background so that you can use the rule of thirds for the placement of the car. Without a decent background, you will constantly have shots with the car filling the frame. Most of my pics are for car ads, so I'm guilty of doing too many of the car filling the frame myself.
b. When doing a 3/4 angle shot front or rear, always turn the front wheels to left or right so that the camera is looking at the face of the wheel. Don't keep them straight, and don't turn them so that you're looking at tire tread.
-angles:
a. Get lower. One reason cars sometimes look meaner going down the road compared to seeing them in person is your perspective. When you see one on the road, you are lower when looking at it (unless you're in a truck). Just like you get down to a kid's level to take pictures of them, I generally try to get to where the lens is level with the beltline of the car as a starter. Just find what look appeals to you. If you do a shot of a wheel, the lens should be at the height of the center cap.
b. Don't go extreme on angles. That look has played out. No need to give people vertigo trying to look at pictures. I've got my fair share of these myself. Mild angles can work at time, but don't get past maybe a 25 degree angle. When essentially flat, be sure to check your horizon line in your post production and crop the shot to be level unless you intended to have angle.
As a mix of these principles, I see from some that you parked the car and walked around it taking pictures from different angles. Wrong method. Pick the background you want for each angle/shot to keep the light where you want as well as things out of the background that you don't want to show.
Your best shot is this:
I like this angle, and it shows the car well. The good thing about this type of shot is that it works angles to leave the negative space in triangles. The background on this shot is also the best without distracting elements. Keep it up. I'm subscribing in case you have any questions, & I can try to drum up some examples.
Since you specifically asked for the photog advice, I'll throw a bit out there. I'm no expert, but here are a few things I've picked up on.
-Pick a better location for a background. The background is as much a part of the photo as the car, so don't just park it at the curb and expect to have a nice photo. Parking garage shots are common because an empty one gives enough of an industrial look that goes with cars, some architectural elements of pillars, no distracting things in the background like power wires, random weeds, etc.
-Cir-PL: This filter is a MUST for auto photog for cutting the reflections off the windows or sides as you see fit. I usually set mine so that you can see through the windshield. Some overachievers will even layer two shots with the reflections off the hood/windshield and a second with it off the side. I haven't done that yet myself, but I really should.
-Shoot in RAW. It has made a big difference to me for adjusting white balance and fine tuning exposure when the camera doesn't get it quite right.
-Try to get out of direct sun when possible. So when the sun isn't visable but is still light outside (yes, you'll want a tripod), shade, or cloudy days (a huge softbox covering the entire sky). You will cut down on hot spots, and your color will look more vibrant. Most of the time there is sun, so to expose properly at lease make sure both visable side (ie. front and side) are both in the light. If one is on a shaded side, you'll never get it exposed right.
-composition:
a. This goes back to background. You should include more of the background so that you can use the rule of thirds for the placement of the car. Without a decent background, you will constantly have shots with the car filling the frame. Most of my pics are for car ads, so I'm guilty of doing too many of the car filling the frame myself.
b. When doing a 3/4 angle shot front or rear, always turn the front wheels to left or right so that the camera is looking at the face of the wheel. Don't keep them straight, and don't turn them so that you're looking at tire tread.
-angles:
a. Get lower. One reason cars sometimes look meaner going down the road compared to seeing them in person is your perspective. When you see one on the road, you are lower when looking at it (unless you're in a truck). Just like you get down to a kid's level to take pictures of them, I generally try to get to where the lens is level with the beltline of the car as a starter. Just find what look appeals to you. If you do a shot of a wheel, the lens should be at the height of the center cap.
b. Don't go extreme on angles. That look has played out. No need to give people vertigo trying to look at pictures. I've got my fair share of these myself. Mild angles can work at time, but don't get past maybe a 25 degree angle. When essentially flat, be sure to check your horizon line in your post production and crop the shot to be level unless you intended to have angle.
As a mix of these principles, I see from some that you parked the car and walked around it taking pictures from different angles. Wrong method.
Pick the background you want for each angle/shot to keep the light where you want as well as things out of the background that you don't want to show.Your best shot is this:
I like this angle, and it shows the car well. The good thing about this type of shot is that it works angles to leave the negative space in triangles. The background on this shot is also the best without distracting elements. Keep it up. I'm subscribing in case you have any questions, & I can try to drum up some examples.
Last edited by PPower; 08-05-2009 at 07:39 PM.
08-06-2009, 11:37 PM
#51
Racer
Circular Polarizer. Just like how polarized glasses reduce glare, the filter will twist so that you can adjust reflections. Use it for making blue skies bluer, taking reflections off of water surface to see below, and other uses. I don't know if you are on any photography forums, but you may check out www.newschoolofphotography.com Fairly tight knit, and many come from Subaru forum background so there is experience with auto photog.
08-07-2009, 12:00 AM
#52
Safety Car
iTrader: (4)
Very nice pics. So in all the pics where the car is lowered that is the 07/08 Type S A-Spec suspension? Ride height looks perfect I would like to know where you picked the a-spec suspesion up from and how much did it cost? Also, did they already come as a pre-assembled assembly with the spring and shock already mounted ready to install?
Thanks,
james
Thanks,
james
08-07-2009, 06:05 PM
#53
Circular Polarizer. Just like how polarized glasses reduce glare, the filter will twist so that you can adjust reflections. Use it for making blue skies bluer, taking reflections off of water surface to see below, and other uses. I don't know if you are on any photography forums, but you may check out www.newschoolofphotography.com Fairly tight knit, and many come from Subaru forum background so there is experience with auto photog.
And for the info on the forum.
Very nice pics. So in all the pics where the car is lowered that is the 07/08 Type S A-Spec suspension? Ride height looks perfect I would like to know where you picked the a-spec suspesion up from and how much did it cost? Also, did they already come as a pre-assembled assembly with the spring and shock already mounted ready to install?
Thanks,
james
Thanks,
james
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