S is for...
Thread Starter
Nikon Neck Beard Krew
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,922
Likes: 5
From: Clack-Attack, OR.
Thanks
Got the Rotora Street Pads, They are Silver in color...but forget part number.
Here is the best pic i can find that shows how they were before...its kinda shows the difference, especially rears.

Thanks
Here is the best pic i can find that shows how they were before...its kinda shows the difference, especially rears.

Thanks
Got the Rotora Street Pads, They are Silver in color...but forget part number.
Here is the best pic i can find that shows how they were before...its kinda shows the difference, especially rears.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3007/...691c80.jpg?v=0
Here is the best pic i can find that shows how they were before...its kinda shows the difference, especially rears.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3007/...691c80.jpg?v=0
Did you get them from Excelerate? I wonder if they fit the StopTech BBK.
Thread Starter
Nikon Neck Beard Krew
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,922
Likes: 5
From: Clack-Attack, OR.
And yes i got them from Excelerate.
Edit: Just thought about this too, how are your pads held in? On the Rotora kit there are two pins that go through the caliper that hold the pads in. Not sure if it is the same on StopTech.
Last edited by sT04Louis; Feb 12, 2009 at 02:31 PM.
I was looking into a pad from a diff company, and if you email Rotora they will send you the schematic for the pads so you can know exact size.
And yes i got them from Excelerate.
Edit: Just thought about this too, how are your pads held in? On the Rotora kit there are two pins that go through the caliper that hold the pads in. Not sure if it is the same on StopTech.
And yes i got them from Excelerate.
Edit: Just thought about this too, how are your pads held in? On the Rotora kit there are two pins that go through the caliper that hold the pads in. Not sure if it is the same on StopTech.
Thread Starter
Nikon Neck Beard Krew
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,922
Likes: 5
From: Clack-Attack, OR.
Wow interesting, i thought Rotora had that too. Stoptech ftw! jk
From Stoptech:
STIFFER CALIPERS MEAN BETTER PERFORMANCE AND FEEL
Using finite element analysis (FEA) modeling software, we have designed a bolt-in bridge strong enough to stop distortion without sacrificing cooling through the top of the caliper. Distortion is virtually eliminated. The squeeze forged StopTech ST-40 caliper has the least flex of any tested aftermarket and OE caliper. The air channel in the bridge is designed to help air flow through the retainer, resulting in better cooling.
From Stoptech:
STIFFER CALIPERS MEAN BETTER PERFORMANCE AND FEEL
Using finite element analysis (FEA) modeling software, we have designed a bolt-in bridge strong enough to stop distortion without sacrificing cooling through the top of the caliper. Distortion is virtually eliminated. The squeeze forged StopTech ST-40 caliper has the least flex of any tested aftermarket and OE caliper. The air channel in the bridge is designed to help air flow through the retainer, resulting in better cooling.
Thread Starter
Nikon Neck Beard Krew
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,922
Likes: 5
From: Clack-Attack, OR.
I have rubbed in the back, and on the front bumper where it meets the fender, also top of fender liner but thats not because of spacers.
So ive trimmed away part of the bumper, and just dont throw my car into corners that hard.
In the rear im running -1.5, im still on the fence about going to -2 in the rear, and i would like -1 or -1.5ish up front to help clear a bit more.
So for an 06mt/Aspec The numbers are like I said? -1.0 +-.5 ? I just want to know cuz the place I brought my car didn't have the numbers for the rear. It always comes out back light in red. Cuz he doesn't have the numbers in his machine. Thats why I buggin you
so much. So thanks in advance!!
so much. So thanks in advance!!
Thread Starter
Nikon Neck Beard Krew
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,922
Likes: 5
From: Clack-Attack, OR.
Yea when i was having my camber put in spec it was -.5 front and -1 rear, so keep it around there and you should be fine. A little more rear wont hurt, just make sure the toe angle is as close to 0 as possible.
Nothing ive needed to be worried about yet, ill probably look into some hubcentric rings, just need to measure the spacers.
I have rubbed in the back, and on the front bumper where it meets the fender, also top of fender liner but thats not because of spacers.
So ive trimmed away part of the bumper, and just dont throw my car into corners that hard.
I have rubbed in the back, and on the front bumper where it meets the fender, also top of fender liner but thats not because of spacers.
So ive trimmed away part of the bumper, and just dont throw my car into corners that hard.
Thread Starter
Nikon Neck Beard Krew
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,922
Likes: 5
From: Clack-Attack, OR.
Thanks
Dremel with a sanding wheel. At very low speed so it wouldnt melt the plastic.
Also trimmed some of the fender down so it wouldnt have a sharp point.
Also trimmed some of the fender down so it wouldnt have a sharp point.
Thread Starter
Nikon Neck Beard Krew
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,922
Likes: 5
From: Clack-Attack, OR.
What are you gonna use up front??
Thanks.
.. but maybe for the front ill do 5 mm spacer so it would be +35 i know that's weak sauce but i ll see Thread
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