The Revival Project by Guti
#42
A camber kit for the front and some negative camber will help, I would recommend the skunk2 UCAs and have it done right the first time. Ingalls makes adjustable upper ball-joints but they'll end up dimpling the metal in your engine bay near the strut tower bar as they stick up about an inch or so above the UCA and end up smacking into the metal when you hit bumps.
I also trimmed off the fender tab in the front, but there's also another point it ends up rubbing on (see pics). Your fitment is pretty close to mine as far as the poke goes, I'm running 18x9 +30 wheels with 235/40 tires. You have about 1.4mm more poke than me.
My camber is at -1.0 in front on both sides, and I still rub if I hit a good sized dip while I'm turning, but 'just barely'. The fronts are already pretty much rolled from the factory, just that tab is in the way.
When I had my rears rolled the shop that did it rolled them to match the factory roll instead of trying to make the fender completely do a 180. If you look at the rears you'll see its already pretty much rolled half-way. If they try to roll the whole thing 180 to make a lot of room they'll probably crack the crap out of the paint.
I'm at -1.4 camber in the rear and it just clears the fender. Never had an issue with the rear after having it rolled. You might need a camber kit for the rears too with your offset. If my rears weren't at -1.4, it would hit the fender and my rear fenders are rolled.
Pics should help, I know the inside of my front fender isn't pretty but I'm having it taken care of soon when I have the RJ kit I bought put on the car.
No clue what to do about it hitting the mounting point where the bumper mounts to the fender. I've been just letting it rub there, it only does it on good sized bumps. Guess could go more negative to try to keep it away, I was trying to stay in factory specs though, but could always run like -1.5 or something I'm not sure what other people are running on their camber specs that have an aggressive offset that puts the wheel that close to the fender.
My car is at about 24" from floor to the center of the fender, for reference.
Could always just not go that low and try to keep it away from those parts.
Just wanted to give you the heads up before you lower it with that offset.
Just curious what size are your tires? They look to be at least a 245 or 255 to me.
I also trimmed off the fender tab in the front, but there's also another point it ends up rubbing on (see pics). Your fitment is pretty close to mine as far as the poke goes, I'm running 18x9 +30 wheels with 235/40 tires. You have about 1.4mm more poke than me.
My camber is at -1.0 in front on both sides, and I still rub if I hit a good sized dip while I'm turning, but 'just barely'. The fronts are already pretty much rolled from the factory, just that tab is in the way.
When I had my rears rolled the shop that did it rolled them to match the factory roll instead of trying to make the fender completely do a 180. If you look at the rears you'll see its already pretty much rolled half-way. If they try to roll the whole thing 180 to make a lot of room they'll probably crack the crap out of the paint.
I'm at -1.4 camber in the rear and it just clears the fender. Never had an issue with the rear after having it rolled. You might need a camber kit for the rears too with your offset. If my rears weren't at -1.4, it would hit the fender and my rear fenders are rolled.
Pics should help, I know the inside of my front fender isn't pretty but I'm having it taken care of soon when I have the RJ kit I bought put on the car.
No clue what to do about it hitting the mounting point where the bumper mounts to the fender. I've been just letting it rub there, it only does it on good sized bumps. Guess could go more negative to try to keep it away, I was trying to stay in factory specs though, but could always run like -1.5 or something I'm not sure what other people are running on their camber specs that have an aggressive offset that puts the wheel that close to the fender.
My car is at about 24" from floor to the center of the fender, for reference.
Could always just not go that low and try to keep it away from those parts.
Just wanted to give you the heads up before you lower it with that offset.
Just curious what size are your tires? They look to be at least a 245 or 255 to me.
Initially, I was planning to opt out on the camber kits and just get an alignment to get the toe angle right. I wasn't too concerned with the camber, but with your suggestions I'll definitely look into getting the Skunk 2 camber kits as well. In the mean time, I'll just keep the car at an optimal height to prevent rubbing.
#43
Custom fabricated using hardware parts. Allows it to stick out of the car, without any contact at all with the painted finish of my bumper. Probably been installed for about 4 years now and I haven't needed to tighten or reinforce it in any way.
#46
#50
The following users liked this post:
paperboy42190 (09-19-2013)
#53
This is going to look great, but if you slam it, I give your stock shocks a month before they're toast. New shocks will not be cheap, so in the long run, you probably would have been better off buying a full coilover setup instead of the "sleeve" style coilovers.
#56
#60
The following users liked this post:
Guti (10-24-2013)
The following users liked this post:
Guti (10-24-2013)
#65
Tanabe Medalion Touring
#68
Photo shoot anyone?
I went out for a drive this afternoon and found a nice spot for a quick photo shoot. Check the pictures at: facebook.com/perchedphotography
The following users liked this post:
Guti (11-04-2013)
The following users liked this post:
Guti (11-04-2013)
The following users liked this post:
Guti (11-04-2013)
#75
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Jamus22
2G TL Problems & Fixes
24
06-11-2023 10:08 AM
cycdaniel
1G TSX Performance Parts & Modifications
8
12-17-2019 10:58 AM