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hey folks, i just jumped the wagon and joined the TL world with a 2006 TL, coming from a 2000 mitsubishi galant for a daily, this is a big upgrade and by far the nicest/most comfortable car i have ever owned.
this will probably get mild upgrades and i will not go balls to the walls with it since it will be my daily commuter car and i already have another project where i sink all my money.
about the car:
2006 Acura Tl with A-Spec kit
172k miles
6MT
resonator and third muffler deleted
RS Type muffler with blue tips
fully tinted (not sure on the tint darkness)
aftermarket sunvisors
AEM short ram
all those mods were done by the previous owner mainly. the car is flawless inside and outside, has one small tiny dent by the rear driver wheel which is barely visible and the typical paint chips on the hood from commuting on the highway with it.
car as well maintained by the previous two owners so i don't have to do much beside the standard stuff when it is due.
future plans would be:
a set of comfy coilovers
nice wheels
OEM sunvisor
Bluetooth module to allow music streaming
fix the exhaust piping since it hang a bit too low in the back by the passenger muffler
change the transmission fluid to synchromesh (ran that stuff in my galant)
for now here is how she sits
here is my old daily:
2001 mitsubishi galant
5MT swap
brembo brakes (front and rear)
Megan Racing coilovers
Evo 17" stock wheels
custom project headlights done by me (morimoto mini H1 7.0 with RGB halos and RGB demon eyes)
and here is my racecar:
the list for this build is super long so i won't post it but if anyone is interested i can gladly make that list. the car makes 391whp and 365wtq @ 25psi and i'm keeping it there due to traction issues once crossing over 400whp/390wtq. i do plan on doing a full AWD swap to it eventually but for now this is how she sits:
full JDM body conversion
Holset turbo
2.4L engine fully built by me
the whole car is built by me minus the welding and tuning but i just learned how to tig weld and i will be tackling my exhaust to redo my custom downpipe and the rest of the exhaust system all over to my liking.
Lots of potential there. Anthracite Metallic is my favorite color after kinetic blue pearl. But the KBP was limited to the Type-S. The paint looks to be in great shape. Keep it waxed. Considering the age, the clear coat might start failing if it's left unwaxed. I've seen several of the Anthracite Metallic TL's around here with clear coat failure which makes them look
i do plan on getting it detailed inside and outside when spring comes and i will maintain the car washes and waxes after that to maintain the paint. the wife's car needs a detailing as well so both cars will be done.
i bought a foam cannon from amazon and bought the pink shampoo from chemical guys and that stuff is amazing at removing everything from the car but i think it will also remove the was on the car so i need to find new shampoo that does not take wax off after washing the car.
Thanks fellas. I noticed yesterday while cleaning the interior that some rust is showing right near the driver door sill, it's about 1.5" and paint has lifted to expose it. That irritated me a bit. Not sure how to tackle it at this point since I don't want to spend any more money right now.☹️
And since I like to drive my cars like they should driven, I noticed that my clutch slips once I hit 5500-6000 rpm, even if I shift to the next gear, I need to let the rpm settle before it grips again!
😔
can one of the mods change the title please ? i forgot that my username here is different than the other forums.
change Spdracr's to L8rh8r's please.
thank you
Last edited by Steven Bell; 11-14-2017 at 07:38 PM.
Reason: Merged Posts
welcome and congrats, did I told you gona this TL will turn out alright?
I know u did and u were right!
So while I was installing the tags I saw this
Are the top two holes supposed to have threaded studs sticking out? I haven't searched on Google yet so I'm throwing it here to share and get thoughts on this
Right side the bolt receiver snapped right off. You can stick a bolt or screw in there all you want, nothing will catch.
Left side the bolt receiver is still on, but the bolt snapped off inside it.
Your option is to glue/weld on a receiver bolt to the right side, and drill out the broken bolt inside of the left one. I would go ahead and take a wrench to snap off the receiver bolt on the left side anyway and have new receiver bolts on both sides.
Last edited by guitarplayer16; 11-17-2017 at 10:43 AM.
Took to the car tonight to a local muffler shop that a friend of mine works at to look to redoing the exhaust to lift the piping up a notch and possibly add a resonator. Found out I'm leaking oil and the source is my rear main seal, completely not happy about this right now! Especially since the pressure plate requires a special preloading tool!
Well thankfully I'll be doing all the labor, my only worry is the special clutch tool that is needed to preload the pressure plate. I may get a new clutch while everything is out, depending on how the current clutch looks.
Since I'm still in touch with the previous owner of the car, I messaged him and asked if he used authentic oil on the car when he did the last oil change and my suspicions were correct, he used Honda synthetic blend oil. I think at this had caused my rear main seal to leak.
I plan on tackling this job (or at least starting it) this coming weekend and finishing it as time allows. Luckily I have other vehicles I can drive so it's ok if it takes fee weekends to finish.
I may replace the clutch depending on the condition of the disc.
after doing some more reading around here i realized that i never checked the PCV valve when i bought the car. so i just went outside during my lunch break and inspected it and it is definitely clogged. i ordered a replacement that should be here Wednesday. i will replace it. clean the area where the oil leak is and drive it some more and see if it continues to leak. im praying that it stops leaking. im also considering changing my oil back to premium to see if that helps as well.
my base TL leaking on the oil by the oil pump assembly and it still leak even after PCV replacement. I think replace PCV valve help with leaking issue prior to the leak occur.
i cant say i know where our oil pump assembly is located but my leak is coming from where the engine and transmission mate together.
if i replace it and it doesnt stop leaking that means the seal is definitely ruined and it will not stop leaking, i will then jack it up and start the process of swapping the seal and anything else that needs to be done at that point.
the weather isn't ideal for doing this in my carport so if i dont have to do it then i would rather not to.
i cant say i know where our oil pump assembly is located but my leak is coming from where the engine and transmission mate together.
if i replace it and it doesnt stop leaking that means the seal is definitely ruined and it will not stop leaking, i will then jack it up and start the process of swapping the seal and anything else that needs to be done at that point.
the weather isn't ideal for doing this in my carport so if i dont have to do it then i would rather not to.
The oil pump is on the opposite end of the block locate near your crank pulley. Yes I know where your leak, its leak via the metal plate where you can remove and see your flywheel teeth or pressure plate on AT car.
its a hit or miss at this point honestly. i may get lucky and have no leak after replacing the pcv and it may have been too late to save that seal. only one way to find out i guess. if it is still leaking by Saturday then i will start taking it apart.
A quick update. The leak is still there. It's a very slow leak though so I decided to wait till the weather is a bit nicer to tackle this taunting project.
Is there anyone parting out an 07-08 or know someone who is? I bought the back up camera from an 07 off of ebay and plan on buying the DVD rom but I also want the proper connector for the DVD rom to make the camera function properly
there should be plenty of savage yard near you, and if they don't have it check NYC area. Car-parts.com you can find if they have the TL in inventory. But think in your case going aftermarket is a better route.
there should be plenty of savage yard near you, and if they don't have it check NYC area. Car-parts.com you can find if they have the TL in inventory.
i can make some calls around but i figured i can help a member who is parting their car out and buy from here before i spend my money at a yard. ill most likely buy the DVD Rom from eBay with some sort of warranty. installation for that should be straightforward and should take no time. i just want to make sure i get all the wiring for the camera before i attempt that installation because i know there are 2 green connectors needed and jumper wire of some sort.
i bought the camera with the frame for $86 shipped. now i will hunt for a cheaper DVD Rom and buy that and i will hunt for the wiring. im determined to get this cuz i wanted one from the get go.
plus working with a decent member will be less hassle and i can guarantee im getting what i want while working with yards they can be a-holes about stuff like that since i am picky.
The 07 license plate frame with the camera is shipped already. Worked out a deal on ebay with a seller to sell me just the bundle of connectors that goes to the navigation dvd rom so that's on order. Also ordered the 15w HID reserve light kit. Having dark tint and dark driveway isn't good. Scratched the side of my rear under spoiler today backing into the driveway after a long day of work, completely bummed about that so I might order a new painted under spoiler in the spring to replace it.
Well in all fairness I just want to be able to see behind me when backing up. Not looking for any fancy HD camera. Also I like to keep things oem looking. Plus I'll get the upgraded navigation with the newer maps.
not a good idea to run those cone lug nuts on oem wheels. i know everyone does it but it doesnt seat well on oem wheels that need acorn/spherical oem lug nuts.
not a good idea to run those cone lug nuts on oem wheels. i know everyone does it but it doesnt seat well on oem wheels that need acorn/spherical oem lug nuts.
so what you are saying that i need the spherical lug nuts ?
well i didnt like the blue lug nuts to begin with so this gives me more of a reason to look for replacement lug nuts in black. i will search and see what aftermarket options do i have.
There are coloured ball seat lugs on ebay however I heard the colour chips away really easily.
Another option is to find black tuner lugs and use a washer adapter to go from conical/tuner to ball seat.
There are coloured ball seat lugs on ebay however I heard the colour chips away really easily.
Another option is to find black tuner lugs and use a washer adapter to go from conical/tuner to ball seat.
If it is not properly anodized then it will chip easily.
i would rather not use a washer adapter/ if i have to pay more to get the right lug nuts then be it.
i just need to find out which company makes a good set.
11-13-2017, 11:32 AM
