Drilled Sloted ROTORS AND PADS (56k Get some tacos)
03-03-2012, 05:41 PM
#1
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Drilled Sloted ROTORS AND PADS (56k Get some tacos)
Finally got done installing my front drill slotted rotors. Was pain in the ass to remove the rotors screw but got it done. Will do the back ones tomorrow.
Improvement.Yeah i think it is better now. Will really tell if i put the back ones on.
Question. When i am doing 60+ and when i press the brakes i can feel a little vibration. Why is that. Maybe new brakes new rotors...
Also i saw that my brake fluid is gray. It probally needs to bleed.
Here r some pics.
Improvement.Yeah i think it is better now. Will really tell if i put the back ones on.
Question. When i am doing 60+ and when i press the brakes i can feel a little vibration. Why is that. Maybe new brakes new rotors...
Also i saw that my brake fluid is gray. It probally needs to bleed.
Here r some pics.
03-03-2012, 05:52 PM
#3
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did you do the bed in procedure?
03-03-2012, 07:10 PM
#5
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Looks great!
6 pictures don't warrant the 56k warning though
6 pictures don't warrant the 56k warning though
The following 2 users liked this post by CLtotheTL32:
Morrissey25 (03-03-2012),
SharksBreath (03-03-2012)
03-03-2012, 08:01 PM
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03-03-2012, 10:54 PM
#9
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Classy looking, along with the Aspec Wheels.
03-03-2012, 11:06 PM
#10
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Brakemotive rotors?
Love seeing drilled/slotted behind A-Spec rims heheh
Just because they're the rims I run in the summer.
Love seeing drilled/slotted behind A-Spec rims heheh
Just because they're the rims I run in the summer.
03-03-2012, 11:27 PM
#12
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03-03-2012, 11:33 PM
#13
That's the only really hard part about the rotors
FYI, you don't need to reinstall the screws since your correctly torqued lug nuts will hold the rotor in place.
03-03-2012, 11:55 PM
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LOLz... physically i agree but mentally, maybe not as i got my mind on my $$ and my $$ on my mind! thanks tho
This sounds very doable! thanks for the FYI regarding the screws also.
I took a torch to the screws to heat them up really good. Then I got a ball pin hammer, put the "pin" end on the screw and then hammered it really good to loosen the rust. I then took a flat head screw driver (or a really good fitting phillips head) and turned them, they came out pretty easy.
That's the only really hard part about the rotors FYI, you don't need to reinstall the screws since your correctly torqued lug nuts will hold the rotor in place.
That's the only really hard part about the rotors
FYI, you don't need to reinstall the screws since your correctly torqued lug nuts will hold the rotor in place.
03-04-2012, 08:28 AM
#15
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03-04-2012, 09:35 AM
#16
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I had the same problem when I installed my drilled and slotted rotors last week. Vibration at high speeds. I didn't bed them in properly and winded up warping the rotors. Had to take them off and get them turned. No more vibration.
How did you bed them in?
How did you bed them in?
03-04-2012, 09:58 AM
#17
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Until i red that you have to go 60 and stop till 15 but not stop all the way. Doing this 3-4 times to probally bed them in probally
Yeah i think i might have warped my rotors. i guess thats why the vibration is coming
03-05-2012, 12:49 PM
#18
Instructor
^^ Hahaha I did the SAME thing man, I went crazy. I'm almost positive that's what happened man. Take them off and get them resurfaced and bed them in right and you'll be good.
03-05-2012, 01:43 PM
#19
2014 Jeep SRT
I took a torch to the screws to heat them up really good. Then I got a ball pin hammer, put the "pin" end on the screw and then hammered it really good to loosen the rust. I then took a flat head screw driver (or a really good fitting phillips head) and turned them, they came out pretty easy.
That's the only really hard part about the rotors FYI, you don't need to reinstall the screws since your correctly torqued lug nuts will hold the rotor in place.
That's the only really hard part about the rotors
FYI, you don't need to reinstall the screws since your correctly torqued lug nuts will hold the rotor in place.
03-05-2012, 02:11 PM
#20
I have drilled/slotted rotors and I don't have any vibration. You definately warped your rotors. It is so hard to find a place to properly do the bedding process around here. I was sure I was going to get pulled over last time I did it lol
New rotors look good. I would do a flush also, for fluid I have been running Motul RBF 600 and it works great.
New rotors look good. I would do a flush also, for fluid I have been running Motul RBF 600 and it works great.
03-05-2012, 02:30 PM
#21
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^^^ THIS !!!
on the other hand looks GREAT OP !!!
on the other hand looks GREAT OP !!!
03-05-2012, 05:11 PM
#23
IMPORTANT: BREAK IN NEW BRAKE PADS/ROTORS USING THE PAD BEDDING PROCEDURE AS FOLLOWS. PROPER PAD BEDDING CAN PREVENT ROTOR WARPING.
The break in procedure is critical to brake performance. The reason for a proper break in is to establish an even layer of friction material deposited on the rotors from the brake pads. It is very important that this initial layer of friction material is evenly distributed. Break in the pads as follows: 5 moderate to aggressive stops from 40 mph down to 10 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool and do not come to a complete stop. Then do 5 moderate stops from 35 mph to 5 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool. You should expect to smell some resin as the brakes get hot. After this is complete, drive around for as long as possible without excessively heating the brakes and without coming to a complete stop (Try for about 5 minutes at moderate speed). This is the cooling stage. It allows the heated resin in the brake pads to cool and cure. After the brakes have cooled to standard operating temperature, you may use the brakes normally.
The break in procedure is critical to brake performance. The reason for a proper break in is to establish an even layer of friction material deposited on the rotors from the brake pads. It is very important that this initial layer of friction material is evenly distributed. Break in the pads as follows: 5 moderate to aggressive stops from 40 mph down to 10 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool and do not come to a complete stop. Then do 5 moderate stops from 35 mph to 5 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool. You should expect to smell some resin as the brakes get hot. After this is complete, drive around for as long as possible without excessively heating the brakes and without coming to a complete stop (Try for about 5 minutes at moderate speed). This is the cooling stage. It allows the heated resin in the brake pads to cool and cure. After the brakes have cooled to standard operating temperature, you may use the brakes normally.
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