Just wondering. Thats all. I noticed that...along with all the other measurements the G-Timer also reports and was wondering if you were using this to verify your times as well. If these things are not set up right...they WILL report back incorrect information. Those G-Timers are great for comparision/contrast purposes before/after a mod though! You can tell right away if you got a gain or not with your work! But....G-timers do not take into account reaction time whatsoever...therefore your 1/4 mile time will be off by that much at a minimum...plus...if they are not set up properly (frontal area, exact weight, ect) it will not read accurate readings.

 

My situation was similar to yours, but the dyno started about 15 mins after the drive to get there. After the first two runs, the guy waited about 5-10 mins to do the last run. I don't know if that made a difference or not. It was a dynojet, he did had a fan, the open hood and everything.
I don't have track numbers, but should be able to in a couple of months. However I have done some road tests of my own. Tests that I know my car couldn't do before. It is faster!

 

what costs are you guys paying for the dyno pulls? I stopped off at a local shop and they were quoting $90 regular cost for 2 pulls and $45 on dyno days for 2 pulls?

 

Trust me it is calibrated correctly, and I have a second one running side by side. They are the same within .000005%. I would think that is accurate. Time slips at the Englishtown NJ raceway confirmed my findings. I looked for them tonight after the Super Bowl, but have not located them yet.

 

Free to me anytime I want since I have friends in the business.

 

Excellent! I also have a G-Timer and havent got a chance to gauge its accuracy at the track yet. I was wondering how accurate they are...I hear if you set em up wrong...they can be painfully inaccurate as far as HP figs go. I think times is right on right out of the box though...sound like you had all your bases covered anyway?

 

It only cost me $55 regular cost for three pulls.

 

There is NO WAY you or anyone else could tell the two devices were within ".000005%" -- on a 12 second run, that is a difference 6/100 of 1 millisecond--or-- 6/10 of a microsecond. Now just how would you measure that? A difficult task in a multimillion dollar physic lab . . . Give me a break! The fact that you would even say that indicates you have no concept of calibrating a timing device. . .

 

Honestly Rick....I kind of questioned the need for TWO meters as well. Seems as if things are being tossed out just to prove positive without question or something...but not sure why you would spend money and run TWO separate G-Timers. Thats just seems overly odd to me. If you know what you are doing...one should me more than enough.

 

The #'s he has are quite consistant. My 05 6mt did 220hp and 205tq on the dyno I ran it on. The only thing done was the CAI. Each dyno is different, and there are errors in all. You times you have, how where these done? At a track, or with a G-Meter? Unless it was at a track, I have a hard time believing them.

The numbers produced by the original poster are spot on to the range for the car.

 

Oh jeepers...You caught me making a mistake and quoting to many zeros. Sorry. Working 100 hours a week will make one a bit delerious at times. Please accept my appologies.

 

If you must know, I purchased one and a friend of mine gave me his when he did not want it anymore, so I used them both to see how accurate they were to each other. I have used them on the track for comparison and they were remarkably accurate.

 

They were done in several places, but the ones I am posting were done at the Englishtown NJ track. The dyno was done the same day at a local shop nearby the track.

 

2004 TL do you have some stats of your runs without the ProCats and only with the CAI and the Pulley?

thx

 

Yes, the Pro Cats added 19whp and 17 ft/lbs tq all by themselves.

 

Hey guys, I don't want to impede on the thread, but can you guys please just go on this thread and just add your names to the petition even if you guys already have exhausts, whether comptech or not, whether you want an exhaust or not, i need names (bodies) to sign up on the petition so we can get GReddy to manufacture us a catback...Thank you for your cooperation. Here's the website:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=153880

 

what is the base whp of the TL?

 

Just look at post #1 or #47 of this thread.

 

I have every bolt-on except for the procats. Even a lightweight flywheel, which most dont have. Hondata prototyped on my car, and since then I havent said a thing about my #'s. On the dynapacks @ church's automotive, without the wheels on, I put down 274.1 and 247.2 hp/tq, respective. Now I know this is gonna turn into a dyno show-down, but I have my slips. mmcV6 can vouch, he seen it in person. Dynapak dynos are usually about 5% higher than dyno jet, according to doug from hondata. So if its dynojet, maybe possible. If not, your lying to yourself. And dont buy the crap that comes out of that g-tech. "make sure its level" with those stupid ass suction cups! Common bro, be real. I had one of those things, too. The first time I used it, I compared back to back with my buddies stock jetta gli (200 hp, 210 tq factory ratings). It said his 1/4 mile, 0-60, hp and tq were way higher than mine. Right away I thought what a stupid toy it was, and now he owns it! Good thing is, I got mine on ebay for 60 bucks and sold it to him for 50 bucks. For 60 bucks, they must be reliable. Or get the "G-tech pro" for 150 bucks and...

 

Which mods do you have on exactly buddy?

 

I have the G-Tech Pro and I know how to use it. If you look at my previous posts on this thread you will get your answers about the validity of the time to speed measurements. If you are still a naysayer, so be it. I am not going to spend any more time defending it. Have a lovely evening.

 

Dude, these cars weigh roughly 3500 lbs right? Even if you only weigh 100 lbs, to run 104 traps, your car would need 314 WHP. Especially being FWD, it would probably take a bit more, as its hard to ET a front wheel drive car. What kind of 60 fts did you pull? I won't believe any better than a 2.20. With 290 WHP at these weights, you MIGHT get 100mph. My 94 Z28 with 260RWHP and a LOT more toque could only run 101mph, and it weighed in at 3450lbs with me in it. Those G-tech meters are so so for ET, but WAY off for mph. You need real numbers.

 

i got nipples greg can you milk me...

2.0 60' on toyo T1s
105.83 may as well call that 106 and oh ya 13.306 fwd at under 260 whp and 3400lbs and i weighed 220ish at the time...wanna see a slip got a few

 

List Dude! Power to weight ratio is part one. Part two is getting the power to the ground. I have seen idiots drive fast cars slowly, and slow car remarkably fast. Efficiency is the name of the game my friend. Who cars if someone has XXX power if it is lost in wheel spin. I am not some kind of dipshit racing his commuter car to the corner deli. I like the TL and could easily afford something far more expensive, but I am sticking with it because I like how it drives. If you question any data I am noting, so be it. Enjoy the rest of your day.

 

Either the weight of your car is less than you think, or the trap speed was wrong, or your car makes more power than you say, because those numbers do not add up, sorry. Even if you were below sea level or had a -DA that day, it just isn't gonna happen, especially with a 2.0 60 foot.