craigtl35

who has the wilwood bbk? who was thinking about it and decided to go a different route, why did you chose a different route, why did you choose to go with wilwood. i am one click away from purchasing the 4piston 12.6" wilwood bbk just want to hear some feedback since i couldn't find to much info on here from owners.
also which color should i get, red or black?i think those are my only options, here is a link to my pic thread https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-photograph-gallery-96/photoshoot-craigtl35-777787/

princelybug

iTrader: (16)

Red would stand out more, but I'd go with black.

craigtl35

excelerate please chime in, acurahaulic noted in a thread a year ago that the wrong size nuts, or bolts were included, they were 2 threads longer than the required, has this issue been addressed?
and i was leaning towards black, just wanted to hear some feedback

LostSol

I don't have them on my TL, but I had them on my EG and loved them! For the price they're pretty great, although i found the pads they included to be a bit weak sauce so I got some better pads.

And get red!! show em off!

xxbiggie

I have the wilwood bbk setup. I decided to go with them since they're cheap and I needed new brakes. I'm loving them so far. After getting them i went with ATE super blue racing brake fluid as well.

Here's some pics from my old thread.

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/fastbrakes-bbk-756029/

craigtl35

those are the 12.6 correct, did you install yourself or have a shop do it?
lol i commented in that thread, what a memory i have lol

xxbiggie

Yes sir. 12.6 inch. It's pretty straight forward to install.

craigtl35

do you have any pics from further away?

xxbiggie

Nope, not at the moment. i'll try to take some tomorrow.

libert69

iTrader: (7)

I have the 12.6 kit up front also. I also have the rear wilwood 4 pot kit. The rear uses the oem sized rotor.

I installed the fronts first and drove about 900miles before I did the rears. Im also using motul 5.1 fluid. The front install is rather easy if you ask me. I actually had someone do the fronts for me only to learn that he fuked it up really bad. Then I had to remove everything and do it myself. If I would of know it was that easy then I would have done it myself the first time. I learned the hard way that you have to use the washers included with the kit to properly shim the caliper so it sits right smack in the middle of the rotor. Otherwise the rotor will rub on the caliper and chew it up.

Its my understanding that this particular kit is compatible with quite a few cars and the washers are there to space the caliper correctly on different cars. You just have to play with it until it sits right. By that I mean you have to try a few different combination's of washers before you use the locktite and tighten everything to spec. The washers go between the mounting bracket and the caliper.

I also needed 10mm spacers for this kit to clear up front. I dont have stock wheels. The wilwood calipers are a little wider then the 6mt brembos but the wilwood caliper will fit WITHOUT spacers for the oem 5 spoke and aspec wheels.

Another important note to remember is to bed them in properly. I found a tech article from wilwood online that stated the proper bed-in procedure. "Bed the brake pads by stopping aggressively from 60mph to 10mph (DO NOT COMPLETELY STOP OR LOCK UP THE BRAKES) 8-10 times. Cool your brakes between every two runs. After the process is complete drive the car around some more to further cool off the brakes." This is a must do procedure if you want to reach the full potential from this kit.

There are 4 bleed screws for each caliper. When you bleed the calipers you need to do the OUTER bleed screw first then move to the inner. Remember with our cars the proper way to bleed the system is 1st Driver front, Passenger front, Passenger rear then driver rear. Since youll be replacing the brakes lines with ss lines, you will also need to do 2 40 mph hard stops right after each other making sure to engage the ABS with each stop. This will pull any air thats trapped in the lines (since you opened them) to the calipers. If the brake pedal feels mushy after you do these stops then you need to bleed the system again. That means air was stuck in the lines and now its in the calipers. If the pedal stays firm after the ABS stops then you dont need to bleed again.

Braking was DRAMATICALLY improved with the front kit. I have no complaints.

The rear kit was a little more difficult since you need to cut the dust shield so the caliper and bracket fit. The instructions say you need to "trim" the shield. Well Ill tell you right now they are lying. The dust shield can actually be trimmed with tin snips. But you need to go much lower the just the dust shield and youll need a heavy duty cutting wheel since your cutting into cast iron. That was a real pain.

After that was done, you need to shim the rear caliper with the washers again so it sits centered on the rotor. You need to bed the rear kit just like your did the front. And you need to do the ABS stops also.

Its hard to tell if the rear kit made any improvements in braking but I know it runs a lot cooler then the stock setup. I used a heat gun to measure and differences between stock and wilwood (or any aftermarket bbk) are huge.

A few other things. The front kit comes with the 2 little hub centric rings for the rotor. Make sure you install these as well so the rotor doesnt have any play in it and sits snug on the hub.

I would also buy some bleeder valve caps to prevent dust/grime from getting in the bleeder valve. The kit doesnt come with them.

You need to re-use the OEM bracket for the brake line. Remove it from the old line once you remove the caliper and bolt it to the new ss line. Some WD40 will help to remove those bolts.

Make sure you use locktite and DO NOT over tighten the bracket bolts and caliper bolts. Torque specs are pretty low (somewhere around 40ft/lbs) but your working with an aluminum bracket.

So overall I definitely recommend this kit. The price is very good when compared to all the other kits that are available. Stopping distance is greatly improved. Ive noticed that this kit causes must less dust then any other pad Ive tried with the stock setup.

I cant remember anything else at this point. Any questions please ask

also

I had no problems with this. Even if the bolt was 2 threads to long it wouldnt matter. There is more then enough room for the bolt to stick out from the caliper without touching anything.

libert69

iTrader: (7)

I wish mine were as dark black as those. Do they still look that dark now? This is what my fronts look like

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

The kit should not need any modification. We've sold a number of these and have received nothing but positive feedback. We also have two kits available: one kit uses all the Fastbrakes components, our other kit is Fastbrakes caliper, brackets, pads, lines but with our rotors. Our rotors use a power alloy compound. We even have cryo-treated rotors available too.

PM me with your info if you need pricing.

craigtl35

libert great write up, you answered every question i have, and i guess im going with the black, they look pretty good
excelerate, i will be pming you later for more info when i get off work
thanks everyone

libert69

iTrader: (7)

What exactly does that mean?

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

The kit we sell should not need any modification in order to bolt onto the vehicle. If it does something is askew.

libert69

iTrader: (7)

^Like I said in my post, the front kit needs to spaced correctly with the washers so no problems there. The rear kit requires some major cutting of dust shield. Not just snipping them with tin snips.

Otherwise a great kit

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

I was referring to the front kit. And what I mean by modification is cutting bolts or grinding parts down as one of the members asked.

libert69

iTrader: (7)

O ok. Yes I agree

Acuraholic

iTrader: (3)

Hey guys, sorry I haven't posted on this yet. I am still running the Wilwood 12.6" 4 pot system up front....still performing really well...no signs of excessive pad wear yet and still stops on a dime. I am assuming the bolt issue has been resolved as many other users have not had the problem since I was the guinea pig on the front kit. I have been running them for over a year and a half and they look and perform as good as the day I put them on (however I did flat black the rotor hats)

hondazex

iTrader: (1)

where you find rear wilwood caliper ??

stillhere153

iTrader: (1)

Store.excelerateperformance.com

craigtl35

^this