RedLine - WaterWetter.
I searched like 3 times, in different ways. Found nothing on this product here.
I think RedLine is a good company. Love their MTF in my 6MT. Why cant I find any info on this here? I mean if it work's Shouldn't we be using it? Maybe I'm just all wet here , but take a look. Sounds good to me.....

http://www.redlineoil.com./products_coolant.asp

 

Though I asked Michael Wan about using it in my Mustang I think the response will work for this also.

Here it is...

I don't know very much about Water Wetter. One person I knew didn't have a very good experience w/it and Toyota silicate-free coolant, it caused "goop" buildup. You really do not need the water wetter product and I honestly doubt it will make a day and night decision.

Running water alone w/ or w/o water wetter is NEVER a good choice. You will not have the corrosion/rust inhibitors in the system nor will you have the correct water pump seal lubricants. In addition, evaporation might be a problem given that a 15PSI cap may not provide sufficient pressure...water alone is POSSIBLE as I believe some track events do allow that but racers are often running a 24PSI cap from what I was told.

The best thing you can do to ensure maximum cooling efficiency is to ensure all mechanical portions of the cooling system and engine are functioning properly. Drain the system completely since you're taking the engine apart. Drain the block, heater core, radiator, etc.

The key is to have a 50/50 mixture. Stay as close to 50% distilled water/50% coolant as possible as it will allow maximum heat transfer.

If the mixture in the system before hand is already 50/50, and you do not flush the system w/water, it is safe to simply premix a 50/50 coolant/distilled water solution and refill with this when you reinstall the engine.

Since this is a backyard rebuild, I would also add 6 GM cooling system sealer pellets to the lower radiator hose before refilling to ensure maximum protection against coolant intrustion. These pellets are not silicate based, they are simply ground up ginger root/walnut shells. They are factory installed on all Cadillacs that had a high risk of coolant seepage. Same goes for the GM 3.4L V6s up until 03 that were notorious for slow and frequent leaks from the intake manifold gasket. The tablets were part of a precautionary measure for those engines. Be ware though, that the tablets WILL turn the coolant brown, but it is completely normal.

As for which coolant to use, I would use the Zerex G-05 product. It can be purchased a Pep Boys for $10.99/gal and is a Hybrid Organic Acid Technology coolant. It is used in all newer Ford model vehicles and may offer better compatibility in the older vehicles that have brass ?? parts that may have issues w/DexCool or newer type antifreezes. The All Makes/Models variety coolants are very similar to DexCool and may cause issues w/compatibility in some cars. Always premix before installation, blend 1:1 ratio with Coolant and Distilled water.

 

I meant to say "difference" not "decision," I sometimes wonder what I was thinking when I wrote that.

Also, premix the coolant only if you are doing a drain/fill. If you thoroughly flush the system, take your coolant capacity, divide in half, and add that amount of concentrate. Then top-off w/water.

As for Water Wetter, don't worry about it. It isn't necessary. Best thing you can do is to run fresh coolant in the system.

 

I have been running water wetter....works for me? Plus the Pro NDRA drag racer that put it in there? (Joe Demaree) It DOES make the temps lower though....trust me.

 

It does lower the water temp a bit. I had a water temp gague in my 240sx, and it showed about a 10-15 degree drop. If you really want your car to run cooler, change the thermostat (sp) with a lower temp one, so it opens earlier. This might cause a rich condition, because the computer will see the engine has not warmed up to the previous temp. I don't think it will make that much of a difference in our cars. But its up to you...