Sonnick

http://www.virtualdyno.net/

Anyone use it? I was messing around with it last night and it's pretty cool. I'm being E-tuned with someone here and he's been great. I will disclose if he gives me permission The Accord wasn't listed in there so I had to add it to "Custom" cars, and the TL could easily be added as well. You can take datalogs with FlashPro and then upload them to this software and it gives you a dyno plot. Basically what I've found is:

1) Upload a Datalog to FlashPro
2) Options -> Export - Save it as a .csv file
3) Open in Excel and delete the first 3 lines (data/time/etc)
4) Filter on TPedal 99 -> Copy & Paste in new worksheet
5) Save & upload into Virtual Dyno

Check this link out as well, which describes how to log in a little more detail:

How To: Setup and use Virtual Dyno - Mazdaspeed Forums

Happy tuning

UTAH TSX

I have use flashpro tuning's e dyno by VIT Viper tuning

6spd-GERCO

Hey Sonnick, I had the person who was doing my Etune run a comparison for me on an Edyno and real dyno (DynoJet) just for fun. The results were pretty cool, both the Edyno and DynoJet results were very similair. I will have to see if I can share the results on here.

Thanks for sharing!

Sonnick

Cool. I plotted one of my datalogs yesterday and it read low, but it was also a 3rd gear pull & slightly uphill. I think it was ~245/210 or so. I am still on the stock catback though, and currently tuning. I'm not too worried about the peak numbers right now, just changes in the overall powerband.

Atlas.46

what did you use for Drag Coefficient and Frontal Area?

Sonnick

I responded on V6P but I used .29 for the Drag Co & 23.208 ft^2 for the Frontal Area. Credit to Google for the info & formula ha.

Mondo375

iTrader: (3)

I'd like to see if in action. Got any logs you can post or send I can load into the app?

6spd-GERCO

EDyno


Dyno

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

That's pretty close, Gerco. What are your mods?

Sonnick

Gerco that's really close! Lol. Looks like you could use a change in VTEC point. The area around 5K should be much flatter.

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

I have to call the Acura dealership tomorrow and see if they can reprogram my immobilizer next week. I've been sitting on this damn Flashpro since mid June. I NEED to start e-tuning. Gonna be getting my 105k done this winter and seriously thinking about dropping in some Bisi cams simultaneously.

sockr1

iTrader: (5)

for some reason it didn't work for me. i uploaded a 4th gear WOT up to 6k rpms but it said i had 150 hp haha definitely not right. i finished tuning with vit and am almost done tuning with a member on here who is very good and more detail oriented

screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

I plan on taking some logs this weekend since I got the Hondata installed. I had tried wth an ELM bluetooth module but it didn't work. It could have been my data gathering though so just user error. I've been using Virtual Dyno since my Subaru days and it's a pretty accurate tool. Just remember the old GIGO - garbage in, garbage out. It's only as good as the inputs you give it, i.e. accurate weights, road must be flat, etc.

Sonnick

Yea my most recent lot said I make 225/190 lol. No way I lost 20hp/tq since the last datalog. I will have to continue playing with it.

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

On a semi related note, what should I expect when going to the dealer to have them program my '08 ECU? I guess I'll swap it in the parking lot and then can they just bring the programmer outside or will the car need to be pushed inside? I'm a little apprehensive about this whole thing. I keep picturing my car running like shit and me not being able to lock my Flashpro to the car etc etc.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

i have the Honda hds and will be getting a fly100. Lmk if u need to borrow one

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

^^

Is that the tool to program the immobilizer?

screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

hondata says to drive to the dealer and have it sitting in the seat and have them swap it. Some dealers may be hesitant to do that part, so I would do as you say - have an appointment tho or they may make you sit and wait!

It litterally takes longer to unclip the stock ecu and plugin the 07/08 than it does to program it.

You'll want to tell them to do a "Replace ECU" on the immobilizer.

I did mine myself with a Fly100 and it worked perfect. I'd have no problem mailing it around, but you'll need Windows XP - I didn't even try using Win7 or 8 since I didn't want to take the chance in bricking the ecu. I'm waiting on my key to arrive from Taiwan, so it will be a while before I can send it out if people want to use it.

Make sure you have the CAN wires run from the CAN connector to the DLC BEFORE you get to the dealer. Those wires are required to communicate with the 07 ECU.

No need to even bring the hondata with you. You can drive on the stock 07/08 programming until you get home and then load the hondata at your convenience.

I'm sure its placebo effect for me, but just using the canned tune for the 04, I feel like it pulls better. I may do some VDyno logs comparing the stock vs tuned 04. My car is stock right now, tho so eh..

However, I think there is much to be had power wise in the top end by leaning out the fueling. My 05 ran pig rich above 5K and a CAI only leaned it out a bit.

PM me if you have any other questions on the hondata or programming.

screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

Were the logs before and after the final drive? You could indeed 'show' a 20HP loss if that's the case. Just like a dynojet, this is essentially an inertia dyno- albeit a moving one.

It is calculating the time required to accelerate a known mass (the car and you in this case, instead of a drum). It 'calculates' HP and then determines torque from that HP) calculation.

A Mustang will measure torque and calculate HP, similar to an engine dyno.

Lots of domestic guys will lose some power (20HP might be a bit on the high side in your case though, but the cumulative differences in different roads, timing, etc etc) when going to a shorter final drive.

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

Appt set for Tuesday. They're charging me $109 (one hour labor), but I'm ok with that. The guy was cool and knew exactly what I was talking about. He has an Si, so he knew what Flashpro was. The guy I spoke with in the spring before I bought everything was all weird about the whole thing. Just have to wire up the CAN extension this weekend, which shouldn't take long.

One last ?

Do I need to bring all three of my keys with me to the dealership??

screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

Man - $109? You can get the Fly100 for 140 and then be able to go back and forth if you sell the hondata ever, plus make keys.

No need to bring any extra keys - this just maps the ECU to the immobilizer.

I was surprised how easy the CAN wiring was. I was expecting it to be a bigger pain in the ass. The only pain was in getting my big ass upside down by the DLC to connect the pins, lol.

6spd-GERCO

J-Pipe,Cat-Back and CAI

VTEC has been changed, this was an early revision of my Etune. On revision 27

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

yeah it is. I will have both in my hands. So one or the other will have to work. The HDS did not work when I swap the TL ecu into the accord. I tired 2 different ecu and same problem. So I bought the fly100 since screaminz28 recommended it. Really don't want to take it to the dealer and have them not program it and I still have to pay.

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

Damn, I figured all the programmers were $300-400 +. I'm tempted to just order one now.



Those are solid numbers. With HFPCs or PCDs and the 3.7 manifold, TB and ported runners you'll break 270.


Why would they not program it? I know some dealers are weird about doing stuff like this for modding.

Accord325

I just did this over on V6P and it came in 2hp and 2tq of my dyno tune graph.

Also ran it with a nitrous pull and had me at 373whp, 336wtq.

screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

I'll do a test in the morning with win7 and win8 to see if the software will communicate using them.

I loaded up a spare laptop with XP for it, since all the engrish documentation said it only worked with XP or 2003.

I have Win8 on my main laptop that I'll be using with Flashpro Manager so that will be an easy test and my garage laptop has Win7.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

@ anx1300c

they will not program it cuz they are redneck and want 600 bucks to do it. I live in WV

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

$600, WTF is wrong with them?

screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

I did some datalogs. All were done in 3rd gear. I'm not quite sure why datalog1 skews up so high at the end, it was on flat ground if I recall. Datalog4 is skewed higher overall because it was a slight downhill grade. datalog3 is the best, and most accurate I'd say. Flat ground, and the power is right where it should be.



I forgot to turn on torque on my phone to capture the run with it as well. Doing that I could also capture the GPS data which would let me know of any grade and at least be better aware of it.

sockr1

iTrader: (5)

^^ what parameters did you put in for your car profile setup

screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

I put the weight at 3750, drag at .29, frontal area 24.50. The weight is dead on, the drag I found online, and the frontal area I kind of had to SWAG it.

The transmission ratios are:

1st: 3.933
2nd: 2.478
3rd: 1.700
4th: 1.250
5th: .950
6th: .770
FD: 3.21

Tire diameter: 23.80 - dang - here is where my data is off! I had the car profile saved for a while and not sure why or where 23.80 came from. My tire size is 225/40/18 which is a 25.1" diameter.

Interestingly enough, that just skews the numbers higher, but almost 30 HP, which is definitely not accurate.

I may leave it at the 23.80 for now to keep the numbers closer to a dynojet, since 233 is right what is should be. I'm gonna grab some more logs tomorrow (gonna try for 4th gear, but my old age has made me much more conservative, lol - too much to lose now!).

I did find if I change the tire diameter to the correct one, and use Mustang Dyno settings, it's back to 230 HP.

If the results don't end up where we want them, tweak everything else till they do! lol

Atlas.46

i was going to say your tire size is small. You can reopen the logs and change the tire size.

Sonnick

230 on Mustang setting? Damn, that's where I am and I am fully bolted. Didn't you say you were stock with just a resonator removal?

screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

yeah - I would think in reality its about 230 on a dynojet though. My 05 made 220 stock and 232 with a CAI. I know everyone says you don't gain anything with a CAI, but I proved 7 years ago that just running an open throttlebody is worth 7HP over the stock airbox, and that's just peak numbers.

I'm sure that the relocation of the IAT and also perhaps just some turbulence can affect the tuning slightly. My old car ran super rich above 5K, ~11:1, and with the CAI it leaned out a point, which is easily worth some power, even NA.

I'm going to try and do some 4th gear logs today, they will be more accurate.

I thin that final drive is gonna eat some 'reported' horespower from you though too. What size tire are you running Sonnick? 235/45/18? Thats the only 26.3 I can think of that sounds right.

Sonnick

CAI's definitely make power. I gained 5-6whp/tq in the midrange just by upgrading from a 3" to a 4".

How come you think I would lose 'dyno' power with the FD? I wouldn't think it would change at all, the dyno accounts for that. Although, maybe the Virtual Dyno doesn't? I'm not sure. Either way my last log of 263/227 seems pretty close to where I should be, considering I'm still on the stock catback. I made 274/238 on a previous tune on a Dynojet with a 3" catback, so the VD seems pretty accurate, IMO.

I'm running 215/55/17s. I wish I could run a larger tire, but my stock wheels are only 6.5" SMFH. I've ran 225s before, but they had a littleee bit of bubbling in the sidewall.

Below is my (now 2nd) most recent CAL file, which was revision 8 compared to revision 4. Some nice gains Thanks to Dom!

screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

In a nutshell, robbed from a different website, but it explains it succinctly, and applies to any inertia style dyno.

Horsepower is the measure of work over time. 2.73 (or any numerically lower) may do the same work, but takes longer, so results in lower numbers on the printout (dyno).

It is measured by the time to do the work of spinning the drum (the car in the case of VD).

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

What do you have now, an '06 non navi? I'm guessing yes, because you mentioned running the CAN wiring and IIRC, the '06 non navi was the only 6MT base to need the wiring, since the '06 navi, and all 04/05's had it incorporated into the ECU adapter harness. So glad I didn't have to spend $350 on that.

BTW, any tips for swapping the ECU? I have that appt tomorrow and just want to eyeball the ECU tonight. Do I just pull back the passenger side carpet near where the foot well meets the center stack?

screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

No, I have an 04. All of the pre-07 cars need the red/white CAN bus wires run from the DLC to the CAN connector behind the clock. The 06's are better off because the ecu is a direct plugin, while I have to use a jumper harness as well to use the 07 ecu.

I got a HELL of a deal on everything from a guy in Louisiana, which is what made me jump on it.

For the ECU, pulling the carpet back is the easy part. My ecu feels like it was torqued to 900 ft. lbs, and cramming my fat butt upside down under there got tiring, so I've been lazy and just left the ECU in the floorboard so far, lol. I'll probably get the new ECU mounted this weekend when I detail the car.

Atlas.46

Do you not remember me running the Nittos NT555Rs 245/50R16s on the 6.5" 05-06 Base RSX wheels for several months? No excuses for larger tires. Here is a picture to help you remember. And now im running 245/40R17 on EVO 8 wheels. I will be switch to a narrower but taller tire in the future on the 16s

6spd-GERCO

Hey screaminz28. HP on a dyno is calculated from Torque

An inertia dyno uses a large steel drum with a known mass moment of inertia (MID) this times acceleration of the drum equals torque.

The RPM is taken from an RPM pick-up on the engine, not the roller.

Torque=MID x Acceleration

HP=(Torque X RPM)/5252 <- note that once RPM equals 5252, TORQUE and HP are equal This is why the two lines always cross over at 5252 RPM.

This is the bare bones of what an interia dyno is doing.

You shouldn't see a Torque or HP increase on a dyno when you change FD. You will notice the benefits of a higher FD when accelerating through the gears with your "bigger lever". I don't know the inner workings of an Edyno but the FD is probably messing with the calcs or it's just bad data.