UR Pulley personal opinion's

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Old 02-17-2010, 09:20 PM
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UR Pulley personal opinion's

Hey every one i've been reviewing acurazine for a while but this is my very first post Hooray!!! I am considering buying the Unorthodox Racing under drive pulley, I've read pleanty of reviews mainly talking about the accessories not recieving enough power but no one talks about its performance, feel, or their personal opinion after installing it on their car any feedback will be much appreciated. Thanx!
Old 02-17-2010, 09:37 PM
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I don't have it, but I have heard of some members saying it is unsafe and not worth it, and most members saying it is safe and totally worth it. By replacing this one with the old one, you lose about 6-7lbs. and it frees up to 4 horses. I may be wrong on some of those numbers. You will most likely be able to tell a slight difference. The problem is installation is difficult. Also, if paired with a throttle body spacer, it will seem better. Hope this helps. It is a mod I am considering as my next.
Old 02-17-2010, 09:58 PM
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The UR pulley is just under one pound. It's lighter weight transfers to a power gain; you can expect 7-8 HP from this mod. TSX pulley kits resulted in a 10whp/10wtq gain.
Old 02-18-2010, 06:31 AM
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Yes please dont believe the its bad for your engine hype

I have had this UR Stock Diameter on for 2 years or so and it's fine. Also on my integra for 5+ years.

Install can be tricky and i have seen and heard it all but if your dont have access to a lift i wouldnt even bother and just take it to a shop. I was charged $45 and it took maybe 20 mins. Also dont forget the Gates belt which im sure you read about.

And yes Josh (Excelerate) is correct i weighed the UR pully and it was 15oz and the stock pulley if i rememebr correct was almost 9lbs.
Old 02-18-2010, 09:26 AM
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ya everone seems to be 50/50 on the good and the bad, im glad to hear you've had it for a while thats kinda the opinions im looking for but hows the feel is there a difference from before and after are you happy with its performance...
Old 02-18-2010, 09:31 AM
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The UR pulley will basically take off 1/10 of your 1/4.

It frees up too 10 HP.

It "feels" like it loses 100 LB.

Buy it, I actually have one I'm about to sell and local to SA from time to time.
Old 02-18-2010, 09:42 AM
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thats cool just let me know my e-mail is jbud4u@yahoo.com best way of contact, do you have a price in mind
Old 02-18-2010, 10:15 AM
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Get back too you later, don't want to make this thread a "For Sale" thread as admins will have to intervene!
Old 02-18-2010, 05:31 PM
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Overall, I agree that it is SAFE for the car. But I would get the stock diameter one over the underdrive one. I thought I would never add a sub and an amp, but I did, and an underdrive won't be strong enough.
Old 02-18-2010, 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by RonJonTL757
Also dont forget the Gates belt which im sure you read about.
If you get the stock size pulley you don't need a new belt right?
Old 02-18-2010, 06:14 PM
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GET IT!! love mine and the sound it makes
Old 02-18-2010, 06:53 PM
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^sound? I didn't notice a sound after the install unless you're talking about the bolt breaking.

It was definitely one of the most noticeable mods I installed.
Old 02-18-2010, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by AtlM5
If you get the stock size pulley you don't need a new belt right?
Yes, stock doesn't need a new belt.

Stock isn't produced any longer. I'll have one in BM at some point.
Old 02-18-2010, 07:03 PM
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I forgot to add that the install isn't that bad but you definitely need the pulley tool.

The jackstand method worked for me and I didn't use a lift or the blip method.
Old 02-18-2010, 08:29 PM
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does the stock one create the same horsepower gains as the underdrive one because i do have a big amp an a 15in sub and do both make your car draw less power?
Old 02-18-2010, 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by TL Luver
does the stock one create the same horsepower gains as the underdrive one because i do have a big amp an a 15in sub and do both make your car draw less power?
You definitely want the stock size. It will not underdrive the accessories. It gives roughly 1hp less compared to the smaller size pulley. The only place to get the stock size pulley is from excelerate.
Old 02-18-2010, 10:44 PM
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but the sock size will still still give me a horsepower increase by swapping it with the one that came with the car right?
Old 02-18-2010, 11:54 PM
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yes ~6hp
Old 02-19-2010, 07:40 AM
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The underdrive is supposed to free up a little more hp but the stock one will definitely free up some as well.

It's a very noticeable mod. For me, I saw faster revs, smoother acceleration and deceleration.
Old 02-19-2010, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by KN_TL
^sound? I didn't notice a sound after the install unless you're talking about the bolt breaking.

It was definitely one of the most noticeable mods I installed.
Ever since the pulley was installed I have a whinning sound at the higher rpms. Nothing like a supercharger but it's sounds cool. I think it's normal bc alot of other people have the same sound. I have a 6spd if that make a difference. What is the belt size again for the light weight crank pulley?
Old 02-19-2010, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by salu8819
Ever since the pulley was installed I have a whinning sound at the higher rpms. Nothing like a supercharger but it's sounds cool. I think it's normal bc alot of other people have the same sound. I have a 6spd if that make a difference. What is the belt size again for the light weight crank pulley?
I didn't have any additional sounds from installing the pulley. I've got a 6mt as well and used the stock belt since it only had 20K on it and didn't need changing.
Old 02-19-2010, 06:02 PM
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I've had my UR underdrive pulley for over a year with absolutely no problems at all. It will NOT damage your engine as it is internally balanced. If your in to big amps and subwoofers, go for the stock diameter, otherwise get the underdrive size. My engine gets up in the revs so quickly now. Picked up several horsepower to the wheels too.
Old 02-19-2010, 06:29 PM
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I have had it for over a year and love it. I have over 1000 watts and there is no problem.
Old 02-19-2010, 10:55 PM
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The pulley is not about HP gain. Thus, the dyno might not reflect a gain.

The pulley is about dynamic weight loss. The dynamic weight loss is equivalent to removing 100 lbs from the car. And, a 100-lb reduction in weight is good for 1/10 reduction (one car length) in your 1/4 mile ET. It is equivalent to adding 10 HP to the car in terms of the performance improvement.

Don't worry much about stock size or undersize. The gains come from the lightweight, not from the diameter.

The pulley is about dynamic weight loss. There is a weird, inexplicable phenomenon that happens when gaining performance via weight reduction. I can not explain how or why this phenomenon occurs! But from my experiences with removing weight from my car (from small chunks to big chunks), the phenomenon is real. When gaining performance improvements derived from weight reduction, you will feel *less* g-force after the weight reduction mod. Therefore, do not use the sensation of increased g-force (aka, Butt Dyno) to evaluate the performance improvements from the UR Pulley... it won't be there.

This inexplicable phenomenon is "at play" when people say "It revs-out quicker but doesn't feel quicker". I read this comment often in regards to the pulley. I agree that it does rev quicker. However, I do not agree with the attitude in which it is stated. It is implied that "yes, it revs quicker but the car is not quicker." Now, think about this for a second. How can the engine rev quicker without the car gaining the respective MPH too ??? The transmission gearing did Not change. It is quicker.

Do Not use the Butt Dynometer to measure the performance improvements from your TL Diet (click here)
Old 02-20-2010, 01:53 AM
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I have the stock sized ur pulley on my '05 tl. I noticed the difference but barely. It pulls slightly harder at the low end (about 2,500 rpm) and gives slightly better throttle response. For the $ I would skip it and go to a jpipe. Later I bought a rv6 v2 and it made a much bigger difference.
Old 02-20-2010, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by way-acura
I have the stock sized ur pulley on my '05 tl. I noticed the difference but barely. It pulls slightly harder at the low end (about 2,500 rpm) and gives slightly better throttle response. For the $ I would skip it and go to a jpipe. Later I bought a rv6 v2 and it made a much bigger difference.
You posted without even reading anything above.

You will not "feel" a significant gain from the Pulley, but it will be there. Just like Innacurate said, the gain is from the dynamic weight loss. The Pulley has nearly the same gains as the J-pipe at the fraction of the price. You just don't feel it. Its almost like if you were going to take off your front, rear, and side bumpers to decrease weight. From that modification each 15LB would give you a "freed" 1HP. Just say your car was a standard base TL with 258 HP. Disregarding the loss through drivetrain and others, we'll say your 150 LBS, you would already lose 10 HP just because of you. Now if you had the pulley that weight would be reduced to 50 LB, thus, losing only 3-4 HP. 6-7 HP difference.
Old 02-21-2010, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by TheChamp531
You posted without even reading anything above.
No I read it. Are you going to say you can't feel the difference when driving your car with five people in it vs just yourself?

The thread is about your personal opinion about the Pulley. I think it barely does anything.
Old 02-21-2010, 07:33 PM
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but doesnt everything do barely do anything; besides a supercharger~or turbo!...lol i wanna know if it does anything of if you can tell...
Old 02-21-2010, 08:57 PM
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It frees up 100 LB on your car, read innacurate's description. You will free up 6-10 HP.
Old 02-21-2010, 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by way-acura
No I read it. Are you going to say you can't feel the difference when driving your car with five people in it vs just yourself?

The thread is about your personal opinion about the Pulley. I think it barely does anything.
Old 02-21-2010, 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by TheChamp531
Cool guillotine. I still say the pulley barely does anything and that the jpipe makes a much bigger difference, IMHO.
Old 02-22-2010, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Inaccurate
The pulley is not about HP gain. Thus, the dyno might not reflect a gain.
Adding/removing rotational weight will most definitely show up on the dyno. Add 40lb wheels (drive wheels) in place of a 25lb set of wheels and you'll definitely see a difference in power. It's called drivetrain losses. They can be seen.

Years ago I had a UDP on my VQ30 Maxima. The OEM Nissan pulley design is exactly like the OEM Acura pulley design, that means both are two pulleys sandwiched with an elastomer ring. The ring acts as a vibrational crank damper. On the other end of the engine is either a flywheel or torque converter and those parts act as dampers due to the sheer mass. The UDP on the VQ30 weighed 15 ozs and removed about 5.5lbs in pulley weight. I tested the UDP both on the dyno and drag strip. There was no change in power and the car was no quicker. It was, however, harder to launch due to the reduced moment of inertia and more NVH could be felt in the higher rpms because of the lack of damper.

ALL late model engines are internally balanced. The issue here is the explosive twisting forces placed on the rotating assembly. That force create certain order vibrations along the crank and that's what the OEM damper reduces. The vibrations can ultimately wreck engine bearings and basically your engine.

I've always found it amusing that so many on this site put faith in the quoted gains and science of the these UDPs. Show me just one dyno of a TL before and after the install of a UDP. Nothing exists. Nothing. Same goes for a 1/4 mile comparision. Nothing. Why buy into it if the claims can't be substaniated by 3rd party testing?

My recommendation: save your money until valid data is presented that a UDP actually works as advertized.
Old 02-22-2010, 06:30 PM
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I've always found it amusing that so many on this site put faith in the quoted gains and science of the these UDPs. Show me just one dyno of a TL before and after the install of a UDP. Nothing exists. Nothing. Same goes for a 1/4 mile comparision. Nothing. Why buy into it if the claims can't be substaniated by 3rd party testing?

My recommendation: save your money until valid data is presented that a UDP actually works as advertized.


well then why was it invented and why do so many members stand by it?

in my last msg i ment to say doese anything at all...
Old 02-22-2010, 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave_B
Adding/removing rotational weight will most definitely show up on the dyno. Add 40lb wheels (drive wheels) in place of a 25lb set of wheels and you'll definitely see a difference in power. It's called drivetrain losses. They can be seen.

Years ago I had a UDP on my VQ30 Maxima. The OEM Nissan pulley design is exactly like the OEM Acura pulley design, that means both are two pulleys sandwiched with an elastomer ring. The ring acts as a vibrational crank damper. On the other end of the engine is either a flywheel or torque converter and those parts act as dampers due to the sheer mass. The UDP on the VQ30 weighed 15 ozs and removed about 5.5lbs in pulley weight. I tested the UDP both on the dyno and drag strip. There was no change in power and the car was no quicker. It was, however, harder to launch due to the reduced moment of inertia and more NVH could be felt in the higher rpms because of the lack of damper.

ALL late model engines are internally balanced. The issue here is the explosive twisting forces placed on the rotating assembly. That force create certain order vibrations along the crank and that's what the OEM damper reduces. The vibrations can ultimately wreck engine bearings and basically your engine.

I've always found it amusing that so many on this site put faith in the quoted gains and science of the these UDPs. Show me just one dyno of a TL before and after the install of a UDP. Nothing exists. Nothing. Same goes for a 1/4 mile comparision. Nothing. Why buy into it if the claims can't be substaniated by 3rd party testing?

My recommendation: save your money until valid data is presented that a UDP actually works as advertized.
Yes we have proven time and again in numerous threads that your logic is faulty. I'm not going to argue with you again and again in every thread; you have already ruined so many.

See the results in this thread:

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ht=zasker+dyno

Or this thread (which has a lot of great info and feedback):

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ht=zasker+dyno

Or even Stillen (the Nissan/Infiniti experts) shows that most of the Stillen pulleys for the Nissan/Infiniti G35/350Z have seen gains of about 10whp.

http://www.stillen.com/product.asp?i...odel=G35%202DR

Another dyno from Altered Atmosphere (another well-respected Nissan/Infiniti tuner):

http://www.unorthodoxracing.com/imag...dyno_a4_v6.jpg

Here's one from a CL-S:

http://www.unorthodoxracing.com/imag..._cl_type-s.jpg

Here's an RSX-S dyno graph, which looks very similar to the TSX gains:

http://www.unorthodoxracing.com/imag...rsx_type-s.jpg

Here's another from a Maxima:

http://www.unorthodoxracing.com/imag...axima_2002.jpg

And what about the hundreds, if not thousands, of positive reviews on this board alone? But I'm going to assume that all these dynos are conspiracies or fabricated and Stillen, UR, Altered Atmosphere, and all the independent dyno shops and members are liars and Dave_B is the only person presenting truth on this board. I guess all those 2nd gen CL/TL members who have 100k, 150, and over 200k with the pulley are also lying.

And that missing elastomer (rubber ring designed to reduce noise from the pulleys) has caused how many engine failures? Oh, none. Right. Where's the evidence for that one? Funny, when ppl remove a resonator from their exhaust (which is designed to reduce noise) their exhausts don't fall apart and their cats don't fail. When people remove remove the baffles off the intake systems the intake manifold doesn't explode and crack because of the additional noise and vibration so where does the logic come from? The elastomer does not provide balance nor absorb the vibrations you speak; only an aftermarket damper like the ATI or Fluidampr can. And unless you're making 2-3 times your factory hp or you're revving the motor 2-3k higher than the stock redline an aftermarket damper like those isn't necessary.
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Old 02-22-2010, 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Excelerate
Yes we have proven time and again in numerous threads that your logic is faulty. I'm not going to argue with you again and again in every thread; you have already ruined so many.

See the results in this thread:

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ht=zasker+dyno

Or this thread (which has a lot of great info and feedback):

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ht=zasker+dyno

Or even Stillen (the Nissan/Infiniti experts) shows that most of the Stillen pulleys for the Nissan/Infiniti G35/350Z have seen gains of about 10whp.

http://www.stillen.com/product.asp?i...odel=G35%202DR

Another dyno from Altered Atmosphere (another well-respected Nissan/Infiniti tuner):

http://www.unorthodoxracing.com/imag...dyno_a4_v6.jpg

Here's one from a CL-S:

http://www.unorthodoxracing.com/imag..._cl_type-s.jpg

Here's an RSX-S dyno graph, which looks very similar to the TSX gains:

http://www.unorthodoxracing.com/imag...rsx_type-s.jpg

Here's another from a Maxima:

http://www.unorthodoxracing.com/imag...axima_2002.jpg

And what about the hundreds, if not thousands, of positive reviews on this board alone? But I'm going to assume that all these dynos are conspiracies or fabricated and Stillen, UR, Altered Atmosphere, and all the independent dyno shops and members are liars and Dave_B is the only person presenting truth on this board. I guess all those 2nd gen CL/TL members who have 100k, 150, and over 200k with the pulley are also lying.

And that missing elastomer (rubber ring designed to reduce noise from the pulleys) has caused how many engine failures? Oh, none. Right. Where's the evidence for that one? Funny, when ppl remove a resonator from their exhaust (which is designed to reduce noise) their exhausts don't fall apart and their cats don't fail. When people remove remove the baffles off the intake systems the intake manifold doesn't explode and crack because of the additional noise and vibration so where does the logic come from? The elastomer does not provide balance nor absorb the vibrations you speak; only an aftermarket damper like the ATI or Fluidampr can. And unless you're making 2-3 times your factory hp or you're revving the motor 2-3k higher than the stock redline an aftermarket damper like those isn't necessary.
Old 02-22-2010, 08:50 PM
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lol...looks like its gonna take a while reviewing all your proof carefully...lol...thanx everyone for all your input even Dave-B~way-acura for bringing even better detailed info from the other members...

Can't we all just drive TL's togther!!!...lol once more
Old 02-22-2010, 11:45 PM
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Excelerate, you still haven't posted a before and after dyno of a UDP on a TL. What's the big deal? You market the modification so hard, yet you have no 3rd party data to support your claims. All you've ever relied on for proof is a bunch of manufactuer and vendor dynos. Any gearhead knows to NEVER trust quoted gains. Are you afraid to know the truth about this mod and that it basically does nothing? Go spend some time over at Maxima.org, G35Driver.com, or my350z.com and you'll see that UDPs are basically viewed as snake oil, a joke, worthless, etc.

Like said, I've put a UR UDP to the true tests. The car in question made over 100 passes prior to the UDP, 40 passes with the UDP (same track), and then another 60 or so passes again without the UDP. Looking at the slips, the UDP didn't make the car measureably quicker. If anything, it slowed the car down in the first 330' because it was harder to launch effectively. On the dyno, it didn't gain a single HP. The curve was exactly the same from 2000rpms to 7100rpms.

And finally, you so wrong about the elastomer ring that it boggles my mind. It most definitely quells certain order torsional vibrations across the crank.
Old 02-23-2010, 12:06 AM
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Originally Posted by TL Luver
well then why was it invented and why do so many members stand by it?
The import UDP fad and most likely related to UDPs used in older domestic V8s, more specifically, the Ford 5 liter found in the Fox body Mustangs. Many owners would swap out the crank pulley, alternator pulley, and water pump pulley with lightened underdriving pulleys. The important thing to note here is underdrive. The pulleys would significantly underdrive the alternator and water pump in an effort to gain power. The pulleys were light simply because were made cheaply on a lathe and not much concern was given to the OEM crank pulley.

In 1996, a company by the name Unorthodox Racing (UR's) came along and started making lightweight, slightly underdriven aluminum pulleys for sport compacts. The pulleys were cheap to make. UR's claims were that the lightened pulleys created power by reducing rotational weight and that minimal power came from the underdriving aspect. UR is correct in that reducing rotating weight can improve power. Is much the reason why race cars have light rims (it's also from better control and braking, but that's another topic). Where UR failed is that they never considered where the pulley was mounted nor it's size. A pulley is only about 7" in diameter and is mounted directly to the engine therefore it's FAR easier for the motor to spin a 7lb pulley 7" vs say a 26" wheel/tire combo mounted on the end of an axle. The bigger the circumference, the harder it is to overcome the mass. Removing 20lbs from two drive wheels/tires will get you about 10whp on the dyno. A lightened pulley is only removing 5lbs from a 7" spinning object directly from the engine. There's a huge difference.
Old 02-23-2010, 12:20 AM
  #39  
Burning Brakes
 
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Excelerate, one more thing. Your beloved manufactuer Unorthodox Racing now supports what I've been saying all along about the dampers in OEM pulleys. This actually irrates me greatly because I've gotten into it on numerous past occasions with the owner of UR regarding OEM pulleys. He vehemently stated that the OEM pulleys were NOT dampers and that the elastomer ring was there to quiet accessory noise and the engines are "internally balanced". Even you, using UR's statements as your proof, stated the same thing to me on numerous occasions. Now, after all this time, UR is now saying that OEM pulleys are in fact dampers. Interesting. Why would they do such a thing? Why of course, to sell their new upcoming product called the "Ultra Damper". This makes me sick. How can anyone believe a word that comes out of UR mouths now.

What do you have to say now?

http://unorthodoxracing.blogspot.com...ifference.html

There are a number of different types of dampers used. First is the most used type which all the OEM car manufacturers use. This damper is made of two parts, first is the inner section which mounts to the crankshaft and the second outer section (with or without belt grooves or teeth). These two sections are bonded together with rubber creating what looks like a rubber ring. This type of damper is limited in its ability to reduce torsional movement or harmonic frequencies because it has limited motion, uses rubber which causes wild swings in its limited effectiveness due to temperature and lastly the small amount of weight (the outer section). The first problem with the OEM damper is its lack of motion. It moves torsionally, side to side, but is limited in how far it can move due to the thin layer of rubber that bonds its sections together. It has no ability to move with engine thrust and it has no orbital ability. The second problem is the rubber which softens very quickly as the engine heats up. This softening radically changes the dampers ability to control torsional movement and harmonic frequencies. So ultimately this rubber causes the damper to only be useful in a very narrow rpm band. Rubber also degrades very quickly and causes OEM dampers to break apart at the bonding. The thrid problem is weight because with the OEM dampers limited motion it needs significantlyh more weight to function and the OEM's do not include enough weight to help counteract the other two short comings. The only positives of this type of damper are its cheap developemnt and manufacturing cost and its good ability to respond quickly to crankmovement due to the inertia weight being on the outside of the elastomer, this unfotunately is quickly negated by its lack of weight and the variability of the rubber itself.
Old 02-23-2010, 12:41 AM
  #40  
Three Wheelin'
 
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Personally I would not do it.


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