underdrive pulley question?

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Old 05-09-2009, 12:50 PM
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underdrive pulley question?

well im going to pick up my car soon i got the pulley and aem intake done... they called me and told me i got the underdrive pulley and needed to get another belt for it which is fine.. i really thought i ordered the stock size my question is why do most people get the stock size? the fact that you are running a system, just want to keep everything the same size or have there been cases that the underdrive pulley doesnt work as well? (dimming lights, battery failure is what ive been reading) or im i just analyzing this to much?
Old 05-09-2009, 02:56 PM
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650W+ stereo and supercharger are the two reasons you must get the stock size. I ordered the stock size because I was iffy on under-speeding your accessories, didn't require a belt change and it was maybe 1-2 hp diff in the two.

The underdrive pulley is fine. I think a member said if you were at idle with headlights, seat heaters, stereo and a/c running you'd probably see some dimming but under normal circumstances you won't notice a thing.
Old 05-09-2009, 03:14 PM
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thanks for the info ned, just got back intake sounds sweet but i guess ill have to wait a day or two for the pulley to be noticed and i had every going inside the car and nothing really happened kept going strong
Old 05-09-2009, 03:23 PM
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After installing the underdrive pulley, you will notice the air conditoner NO longer chills as well as it used to at red lights.

Originally Posted by NedShneebly
650W+ stereo and supercharger are the two reasons you must get the stock size. I ordered the stock size because I was iffy on under-speeding your accessories, didn't require a belt change and it was maybe 1-2 hp diff in the two.

The underdrive pulley is fine. I think a member said if you were at idle with headlights, seat heaters, stereo and a/c running you'd probably see some dimming but under normal circumstances you won't notice a thing.
Old 05-09-2009, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by 7thGenV6
After installing the underdrive pulley, you will notice the air conditoner NO longer chills as well as it used to at red lights.
funny you say that i need to freon my system anyway
Old 05-09-2009, 05:58 PM
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So, for those of us (mainly me lol) who have no intention on modifying any of the lights, interior electronics or audio system (except for maybe HID fogs), we should be just fine with the underdrive? The new belt is the only thing I'm a bit concerned of.
Old 05-09-2009, 08:18 PM
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that's what they say but, listen to what 7thGenV6 has to say. If you live in the south you may melt at a long stop light.
Old 05-10-2009, 01:26 AM
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Originally Posted by NedShneebly
The underdrive pulley is fine. I think a member said if you were at idle with headlights, seat heaters, stereo and a/c running you'd probably see some dimming but under normal circumstances you won't notice a thing.
knock on wood, never happen to me and i had the pulley on for 3 months so far
Old 05-10-2009, 07:37 AM
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well im kind of glad i got the underdrive now because they had to change the belt and he showed me the belt wow, it didnt look that great- it was missing a rib on the inside and looked dry rotted. greco9885 you should be fine just keep the ac on max !!! ha
Old 05-10-2009, 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by HigdonTL05
well im kind of glad i got the underdrive now because they had to change the belt and he showed me the belt wow, it didnt look that great- it was missing a rib on the inside and looked dry rotted. greco9885 you should be fine just keep the ac on max !!! ha
how many miles? I'm about to hit 50K and have been considering belt change.
Old 05-10-2009, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by HigdonTL05
well im kind of glad i got the underdrive now because they had to change the belt and he showed me the belt wow, it didnt look that great- it was missing a rib on the inside and looked dry rotted. greco9885 you should be fine just keep the ac on max !!! ha
I think some of us are interested in your vehicle year and mileage. I am a little surprised to hear about your belt wear and the fact you are considering recharging your A/C.
Old 05-10-2009, 03:40 PM
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i just hit 88k and i bought it used and the guy before me lived in NY I will take a few pictures of the pulley and belt, the pulley is rusty!!!!
Old 05-10-2009, 04:00 PM
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Old 05-10-2009, 04:15 PM
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Old 05-10-2009, 04:23 PM
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and on a good point theres my intake!!!! aem FTW!!!!
Old 05-10-2009, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by HigdonTL05


and on a good point theres my intake!!!! aem FTW!!!!
AEM FTB (For that Brakes)
Old 05-10-2009, 04:57 PM
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????
Old 05-15-2009, 05:17 PM
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i still dont know what you mean by that?
Old 05-15-2009, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by HigdonTL05
i still dont know what you mean by that?
AEM FTB.. it was a joke.. are you not aware that AEM brake at the bracket. I I am on my 3rd one.
Old 05-17-2009, 09:02 PM
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here's the difference below...


http://www.customcarscentral.com/unr...l--04-up-.html
With Unorthodox Racing stock diameter crank pulleys, the alternator and other accessories spin at stock speeds with NO underdrive. This is also important for stock or aftermarket supercharger systems. These systems are either driven off the alternator, air conditioning or power steering sections of the crank pulley and now you can use our stock diameter crank pulleys with these supercharger systems and have the same boost you had with the factory crank pulley.
100% of the power gains from the stock diameter pulleys comes only from weight reduction versus the factory crank pulley. The reduced weight allows for more power transfer to the drive wheels. Any of our accessory pulleys that are listed individually can be used in any combination with our stock diameter crank pulley or purchased as a set. The stock diameter crank pulleys are available in polished finish only.

http://www.unorthodoxracing.com/faq.aspx#section2
Underdriving/underdrive is slowing the speed of the accessories, or the driven component, from their original factory speed. Underdriving can be done in two ways. First is by increasing the diameter of the accessory pulley/s. The problem with this method is it increases the size of the accessory pulley/s which increases their weight. Weight reduction is the most important key to increasing engine performance and response. This method also eliminates the ability to underdrive the a/c that robs alot of horsepower. The second, which we use, is reducing the diameter of the crank pulley. This allows us to achieve the best ratio of underdriving, and most importantly maximizes the reduction of weight on the crankshaft. This reduction in weight reduces the moment of inertia allowing your engine to respond faster to throttle inputs and perform better at all RPM's. This method also allows underdriving of the a/c we can maximize the performance of our kits by not leaving any accessories to rob precious horsepower from your engine.
Old 05-18-2009, 05:17 PM
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thanks and to the above post about the aem breaking why would you continue to buy if it keeps breaking?
Old 05-18-2009, 06:48 PM
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no problem. i am about to do the same thing to my TL here pretty soon. i already have CAI and exhaust. Headers and a pully are the last two i need.
Old 05-20-2009, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by jguerra23
AEM FTB.. it was a joke.. are you not aware that AEM brake at the bracket. I I am on my 3rd one.


How many miles would you guess you get out of them before the bracket brakes? I've been reading a few threads on that here and it seems like it's more prone to happen to guys with the P2R, which I just added. I'm planning on modifying the AEM bracket to reduce the stress on it. Haven't gotten around to it yet though.....
Old 05-20-2009, 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by 05TLRIDER
How many miles would you guess you get out of them before the bracket brakes? I've been reading a few threads on that here and it seems like it's more prone to happen to guys with the P2R, which I just added. I'm planning on modifying the AEM bracket to reduce the stress on it. Haven't gotten around to it yet though.....
Miles i am not sure... My first one happen after 2 months, I was using the P2R. Got a replacement from them, I cut off the same amount as the width of the p2r.... .Broke in 3 weaks.

I got a replacement prototype....much better welding.... that one is good so far for about 4 months now.
Old 05-20-2009, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by jguerra23
Miles i am not sure... My first one happen after 2 months, I was using the P2R. Got a replacement from them, I cut off the same amount as the width of the p2r.... .Broke in 3 weaks.

I got a replacement prototype....much better welding.... that one is good so far for about 4 months now.

Now I'm nervous, cause I just installed my P2R about a month ago now and have been driving pretty hard, so there's a lot of torque on that mount. I actually haven't checked it for a couple weeks either, guess my custom mount is gonna be my memorial day weekend project (or at least for a couple hours anyways).
Old 05-20-2009, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by 05TLRIDER
Now I'm nervous, cause I just installed my P2R about a month ago now and have been driving pretty hard, so there's a lot of torque on that mount. I actually haven't checked it for a couple weeks either, guess my custom mount is gonna be my memorial day weekend project (or at least for a couple hours anyways).
Anyways... Dont want to jack up this Thread, so here is my final note on AEM... there many threads on this.

U will notice if it were broken. THe car drains gas and u dont feel the pull.. or hear the throttle noise u normal do.

Some have been lucky and have rocked both AEM cai w/ P2r just fine...me on the other hand.. i went trhough two in no time.

New weld desing for AEM


Old 05-20-2009, 02:29 PM
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Have P2R and pre-cats (little rougher at idle and under throttle). Chopped the AEM equal length of P2R. 5K miles with no issues.
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