underdrive pulley question?
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
underdrive pulley question?
well im going to pick up my car soon i got the pulley and aem intake done... they called me and told me i got the underdrive pulley and needed to get another belt for it which is fine.. i really thought i ordered the stock size my question is why do most people get the stock size? the fact that you are running a system, just want to keep everything the same size or have there been cases that the underdrive pulley doesnt work as well? (dimming lights, battery failure is what ive been reading) or im i just analyzing this to much?
#2
practicing nihilist
650W+ stereo and supercharger are the two reasons you must get the stock size. I ordered the stock size because I was iffy on under-speeding your accessories, didn't require a belt change and it was maybe 1-2 hp diff in the two.
The underdrive pulley is fine. I think a member said if you were at idle with headlights, seat heaters, stereo and a/c running you'd probably see some dimming but under normal circumstances you won't notice a thing.
The underdrive pulley is fine. I think a member said if you were at idle with headlights, seat heaters, stereo and a/c running you'd probably see some dimming but under normal circumstances you won't notice a thing.
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
thanks for the info ned, just got back intake sounds sweet but i guess ill have to wait a day or two for the pulley to be noticed and i had every going inside the car and nothing really happened kept going strong
#4
After installing the underdrive pulley, you will notice the air conditoner NO longer chills as well as it used to at red lights.
650W+ stereo and supercharger are the two reasons you must get the stock size. I ordered the stock size because I was iffy on under-speeding your accessories, didn't require a belt change and it was maybe 1-2 hp diff in the two.
The underdrive pulley is fine. I think a member said if you were at idle with headlights, seat heaters, stereo and a/c running you'd probably see some dimming but under normal circumstances you won't notice a thing.
The underdrive pulley is fine. I think a member said if you were at idle with headlights, seat heaters, stereo and a/c running you'd probably see some dimming but under normal circumstances you won't notice a thing.
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
#6
So, for those of us (mainly me lol) who have no intention on modifying any of the lights, interior electronics or audio system (except for maybe HID fogs), we should be just fine with the underdrive? The new belt is the only thing I'm a bit concerned of.
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#9
Racer
Thread Starter
well im kind of glad i got the underdrive now because they had to change the belt and he showed me the belt wow, it didnt look that great- it was missing a rib on the inside and looked dry rotted. greco9885 you should be fine just keep the ac on max !!! ha
#10
practicing nihilist
how many miles? I'm about to hit 50K and have been considering belt change.
#11
I think some of us are interested in your vehicle year and mileage. I am a little surprised to hear about your belt wear and the fact you are considering recharging your A/C.
#19
Looking for new mods
#20
here's the difference below...
http://www.customcarscentral.com/unr...l--04-up-.html
With Unorthodox Racing stock diameter crank pulleys, the alternator and other accessories spin at stock speeds with NO underdrive. This is also important for stock or aftermarket supercharger systems. These systems are either driven off the alternator, air conditioning or power steering sections of the crank pulley and now you can use our stock diameter crank pulleys with these supercharger systems and have the same boost you had with the factory crank pulley.
100% of the power gains from the stock diameter pulleys comes only from weight reduction versus the factory crank pulley. The reduced weight allows for more power transfer to the drive wheels. Any of our accessory pulleys that are listed individually can be used in any combination with our stock diameter crank pulley or purchased as a set. The stock diameter crank pulleys are available in polished finish only.
http://www.unorthodoxracing.com/faq.aspx#section2
Underdriving/underdrive is slowing the speed of the accessories, or the driven component, from their original factory speed. Underdriving can be done in two ways. First is by increasing the diameter of the accessory pulley/s. The problem with this method is it increases the size of the accessory pulley/s which increases their weight. Weight reduction is the most important key to increasing engine performance and response. This method also eliminates the ability to underdrive the a/c that robs alot of horsepower. The second, which we use, is reducing the diameter of the crank pulley. This allows us to achieve the best ratio of underdriving, and most importantly maximizes the reduction of weight on the crankshaft. This reduction in weight reduces the moment of inertia allowing your engine to respond faster to throttle inputs and perform better at all RPM's. This method also allows underdriving of the a/c we can maximize the performance of our kits by not leaving any accessories to rob precious horsepower from your engine.
http://www.customcarscentral.com/unr...l--04-up-.html
With Unorthodox Racing stock diameter crank pulleys, the alternator and other accessories spin at stock speeds with NO underdrive. This is also important for stock or aftermarket supercharger systems. These systems are either driven off the alternator, air conditioning or power steering sections of the crank pulley and now you can use our stock diameter crank pulleys with these supercharger systems and have the same boost you had with the factory crank pulley.
100% of the power gains from the stock diameter pulleys comes only from weight reduction versus the factory crank pulley. The reduced weight allows for more power transfer to the drive wheels. Any of our accessory pulleys that are listed individually can be used in any combination with our stock diameter crank pulley or purchased as a set. The stock diameter crank pulleys are available in polished finish only.
http://www.unorthodoxracing.com/faq.aspx#section2
Underdriving/underdrive is slowing the speed of the accessories, or the driven component, from their original factory speed. Underdriving can be done in two ways. First is by increasing the diameter of the accessory pulley/s. The problem with this method is it increases the size of the accessory pulley/s which increases their weight. Weight reduction is the most important key to increasing engine performance and response. This method also eliminates the ability to underdrive the a/c that robs alot of horsepower. The second, which we use, is reducing the diameter of the crank pulley. This allows us to achieve the best ratio of underdriving, and most importantly maximizes the reduction of weight on the crankshaft. This reduction in weight reduces the moment of inertia allowing your engine to respond faster to throttle inputs and perform better at all RPM's. This method also allows underdriving of the a/c we can maximize the performance of our kits by not leaving any accessories to rob precious horsepower from your engine.
#23
How many miles would you guess you get out of them before the bracket brakes? I've been reading a few threads on that here and it seems like it's more prone to happen to guys with the P2R, which I just added. I'm planning on modifying the AEM bracket to reduce the stress on it. Haven't gotten around to it yet though.....
#24
Looking for new mods
How many miles would you guess you get out of them before the bracket brakes? I've been reading a few threads on that here and it seems like it's more prone to happen to guys with the P2R, which I just added. I'm planning on modifying the AEM bracket to reduce the stress on it. Haven't gotten around to it yet though.....
I got a replacement prototype....much better welding.... that one is good so far for about 4 months now.
#25
Miles i am not sure... My first one happen after 2 months, I was using the P2R. Got a replacement from them, I cut off the same amount as the width of the p2r.... .Broke in 3 weaks.
I got a replacement prototype....much better welding.... that one is good so far for about 4 months now.
I got a replacement prototype....much better welding.... that one is good so far for about 4 months now.
Now I'm nervous, cause I just installed my P2R about a month ago now and have been driving pretty hard, so there's a lot of torque on that mount. I actually haven't checked it for a couple weeks either, guess my custom mount is gonna be my memorial day weekend project (or at least for a couple hours anyways).
#26
Looking for new mods
Now I'm nervous, cause I just installed my P2R about a month ago now and have been driving pretty hard, so there's a lot of torque on that mount. I actually haven't checked it for a couple weeks either, guess my custom mount is gonna be my memorial day weekend project (or at least for a couple hours anyways).
U will notice if it were broken. THe car drains gas and u dont feel the pull.. or hear the throttle noise u normal do.
Some have been lucky and have rocked both AEM cai w/ P2r just fine...me on the other hand.. i went trhough two in no time.
New weld desing for AEM
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