Type S turbo build, remote mount
#287
Advanced
The following users liked this post:
thisaznboi88 (01-17-2015)
#289
Advanced
#293
Advanced
I wasn't, lol. I hooked up a guy in WI with a quick clean up basemap for his 9th gen while I was out there, and his was close to that.
#295
Ordered this actuator last night. The stiffer spring should help with yhe boost tapering. From what im hearing the canister that came with the turbo isnt strong enought to hold the wastegate closed. Especially with a higher displacement engine. And soon a boost controller for even more consistent boost levels
#296
I hope we get the waste gate actuator today so we can continue tuning, I'm ready to turn the boost up and have some fun
#297
Good man, waiting to see what numbers are you guys able to come out with and how that AT reacts to the power, BTW did you by chance took any pics on how you fit the trans oil cooler?
#298
We just used the little clips that came with the kit, they went through the AC condenser, with a piece of foam at the corners to keep the 2 cores from rubbing against each other.
#299
Got the new wastegate actuator on and now im holding the boost a little better.
im peaking at 8 psi, still drop to about 5.5 ish. but thats ok i'd rather it drop a bit than have it creep up as im climbing. and look at these numbers.
not bad for not a lot of boost.
im peaking at 8 psi, still drop to about 5.5 ish. but thats ok i'd rather it drop a bit than have it creep up as im climbing. and look at these numbers.
not bad for not a lot of boost.
The following 3 users liked this post by UTAH Type-S:
#302
Looks like wheel spin to me that's what my car looks like on the Edyno when I get a little wheel spin at higher speeds yeah wheel spin at 70 MPH gotta love it LOL
#304
Ordered this actuator last night. The stiffer spring should help with yhe boost tapering. From what im hearing the canister that came with the turbo isnt strong enought to hold the wastegate closed. Especially with a higher displacement engine. And soon a boost controller for even more consistent boost levels
#305
I was looking at using the EFR8374 like you did but seen that you had some boost controller and wastegate issues got me reconsidering. In your opinion do you think the savings in fabrication and space are worth spending the 2200 on this turbo knowing the issues that you ran into or would it make more sense to go with a different model or even a different brand?
#306
Three Wheelin'
You're gonna need wider tires
Well done dude
Well done dude
The following users liked this post:
UTAH Type-S (01-29-2015)
#308
Three Wheelin'
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=bxo1ueg3P3M
heres the last pull I did. The roads have been too wet to do them for now
The afr target has been 11.3 ish to 12 under boost this pull was 3rd gear from 2000-3500 rpm
heres the last pull I did. The roads have been too wet to do them for now
The afr target has been 11.3 ish to 12 under boost this pull was 3rd gear from 2000-3500 rpm
Isn't Gerzand running almost 500whp supercharged, and before that on nitrous? Is he on stock internals? I believe the drivetrain is still all stock, which is incredible.
#309
I was looking at using the EFR8374 like you did but seen that you had some boost controller and wastegate issues got me reconsidering. In your opinion do you think the savings in fabrication and space are worth spending the 2200 on this turbo knowing the issues that you ran into or would it make more sense to go with a different model or even a different brand?
#311
hope the re-build is going well on your end
#312
Racer
The rebuild is finishing up, the bottom end is reassembled. They were working on the top end today. After that they are installing the water/meth injection and then a retune. I'm hoping it'll be done next Wednesday.
It's interesting to see the difference in spool time between your set-up and mine (when it worked...). I can't wait to get my car back, I'm in turbo withdrawal
Last edited by maddogtheta; 01-29-2015 at 09:29 PM. Reason: added text
#313
This EFR turbo is nuts if you look at the flashpro screen shot above you can see it takes only 2 seconds after punching it to go from vacuum to 8 LBS, it just plants you in the seat instantly and this is a .92 AR housing AMAZING RESPONSE
Last edited by UTAH TSX; 01-29-2015 at 10:14 PM.
#314
Advanced
I know the feeling all too well, lol
If you think it spools fast as is, you should see what I've done in the past with the EFR's using a proper EWG setup. I can bring full boost in a full 1000 rpm sooner. The IWG housings are very lazy in respect to the EWG housings (Treadstone makes some EWG housings).
Check out green vs purple from a few Civic's I did ages ago
Check out green vs purple from a few Civic's I did ages ago
#315
Advanced
AT trans always screws with eDyno graphs (torque convertor mostly), I don't use them as the ultimate source of truth, but they're a good idea of how things have been progressing -- the overall graph keeps shifting up as we've improved the tune and increased boost.
#316
SHIT..............
So i was driving home after work. I start hearing a lot of audible knock. First thought was it was a rocker arm that came loose or broke. So i opened up the valve cover and checked the clearances. Nothing, one of them was a bit tight, so I adjusted it, and that was that, still making noise. My dad remembered that the timing belt tensioner going bad and flapping back and fourth makes that same noise. So we replaced it and the belt and..........nope still making the noise. so i drop the oil pan and find this.
Pistons one and three are gone. What used to be the skirts is now shrapnel at the bottom of my oil pan.
Here is cylinder one.
Luckily the cylinder walls are unscathed. Time for me to save up and get some new pistons made.
Im going to shoot for close to stock C/R still, maybe a little bit less.
If anyone is wondering why these pistons are constantly breaking even with little to no boost.
Here is a piston my dad had laying around from one of his old race cars.
Notice the difference in thickness? Even on the thinnest part of his piston, there is still 20-30% more material (i may be being dramatic). I know its hard to tell from the pic, but the material FEELS weaker too. Like some kind of cheap cast metal.
So i was driving home after work. I start hearing a lot of audible knock. First thought was it was a rocker arm that came loose or broke. So i opened up the valve cover and checked the clearances. Nothing, one of them was a bit tight, so I adjusted it, and that was that, still making noise. My dad remembered that the timing belt tensioner going bad and flapping back and fourth makes that same noise. So we replaced it and the belt and..........nope still making the noise. so i drop the oil pan and find this.
Pistons one and three are gone. What used to be the skirts is now shrapnel at the bottom of my oil pan.
Here is cylinder one.
Luckily the cylinder walls are unscathed. Time for me to save up and get some new pistons made.
Im going to shoot for close to stock C/R still, maybe a little bit less.
If anyone is wondering why these pistons are constantly breaking even with little to no boost.
Here is a piston my dad had laying around from one of his old race cars.
Notice the difference in thickness? Even on the thinnest part of his piston, there is still 20-30% more material (i may be being dramatic). I know its hard to tell from the pic, but the material FEELS weaker too. Like some kind of cheap cast metal.
Last edited by UTAH Type-S; 02-08-2015 at 09:25 PM.
#317
Advanced
Well crap, that's not something I wanted to see happen. The info I had on these motors is they were built "lightweight for economy" appears to be an unfortunate fact
#318
It would appear so. Hopefully pistons should be all I need. I plan on keeping the boost at the same level. Even with built pistons.
#319
Advanced
I know the rods on the motor aren't very strong, I was honestly expecting you to lose a rod before a piston fell apart...