I searched and couldnot find anything really...
so here goes, if a base model TL (2004) were to put a Type-S ECU, cam, cam gear/shaft in their car, would it yield power? would the ECU even be able to work?
sorry if this is a repeated question

 

you are better off putting a lightweight crankshaft pulley- intake manifold/TB heat spacers- maybe headers,
those are the big 3 for power you can measure, not just feel in your butt dyno~

 

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Cam will physically bolt up and there should be gains higher in the rpm range. ECU might be a different story. It would probably overfuel your engine slightly since it's calibrated for the larger motor. I would think it would run rich but I have no idea what all they changed between the ECUs.

 

you would have to reconfigure the pin-outs on your harness since they changed in 2006. Also you might run into transmission issues since the TL-S rev-matches downshifts by itself, and as well has completely different transmissions. Plus with the extra fuel being dumped, you'd get a CEL for running to rich.

 

Yup, even the new 08 Base TL has a the new Transmission.

 

well you could call boomslang up and have them make you a conversion harness

I don't think there will be any foreseable issues but you may also want to run a wideband air fuel ratio gauge just to make sure your car isn't leaning out because of the differences between the displacements

back in the day I saw no problems running a stock b18 ecu on a b16

 

thanks for all yalls help!
i really was not sure what all you would have to do for it to work out but it sounds like something i could see me trying one day, just figure out what it will take exactly to make it work with no CEL, not running too rich and what not.
i would like to drop something type-s into my car to gain a little power along with pulley and J-pipe
also, since the accords are using a J32, do you guys know if they make headers for accords? and if yes, would there be a way to bolt it up to an 04 tl?
i am going to do research on 03-07 accord LCA's, Tie bar and other suspension stuff to see if i can work something out

 

your best bet would be to do some custom motor work:

Ported and Polished intake runners - P2R s
Big Bore throttle body
Port and polish everything else
Balance and Blueprint
5 angle valve job
complete disassembly and hot soak/cleaning of motor
Rehone motor

BTW do you have a mods list so we can better recommend stuff for you?

 

rv6-performance.com

ps. no headers just rv6 package

fyi.
03-07 accords 3.0liter
08-09 accords 3.5liter
04-08 tl 3.2liter
07-08 tl-s 3.5liter

 

all i have done is HKS single exhaust which is straight pipe 2.5 inch from the j-pipe back, Fujita CAI
thats really it for "go fast" mods
i also have D2 coilovers for a 03-07 accord, VIS CF hood, and such


and still here, damn im glad you put that up! for some reason i was thinking the 03-07 accords were 3.2
i appreciate that! i will look into some stuff

 

P2R spacers
P2R Polished Intake Runners
Pre-Cat deletes or High Flow Cats
Corsport shifter bushings (firmer shifts)
Comptech Short Shifter (shorter throws)
UR Pulley

Big Bore Throttle Body
Port and Polish of motor
5 way Valve job
Motor Refresh

that totaled should give you a bit of power.

 

yeah i would really like to go port and polish and valve job, but from what i have heard, if you want that done, you should find a machine shop that has done the same platform, i.e. J-series motor

 

A valve job isn't really necessary. Most modern cars have a multi-angle valve job already. Some basic port matching and bowl work on the heads can be done and any competent machine shop. It doesn't have to be an all out race port, just do the bowl work and smooth and slightly enlarge the ports. You will get 90% of the benefit of a race port for 50% of the work. The extra 10% is what consumes the time and money.

A lot of work you can do yourself with a good Dremel.

On my race car, I have made sure every joint in the exhaust lines up perfectly and I ground smooth any rough edge, welding slag, etc. that could disrupt airflow.

I ported the heads and intake manifold myself but what I did different than most is something you can do yourself. When you bolt the ported intake to the heads, look down the runners to see how everything lines up. Mark what doesn't match perfectly, pull the intake off and do some more clean up. Do the same to every single piece that carries air and you will see gains that most people don't. There's not a single sharp edge in my intake or exhaust, no "steps" where the air transfers from one casting to another.

 

that sounds like an idea. I will continue to look into all of that and see what i can find out. thanks for all of yalls help!