I have had something on my mind. Sometimes my TL feels like it is only putting out about 230-240 hp. I have never understood why.

I have come to a conclusion after all of this time. The car must record and measure temperature, sunlight, throttle input, road conditions, and engine and transmission temperature. With the combination of these- the car simply does its best without putting the engine in any immediate danger. Acura does not want to set the bad impression by having TL's broken down on the side of the highway- or hav to replace transmissions; Nor deal with angry drivers who have meen overcome an overheated engine. Therefore, the ECU limits horsepower output to do what is best for the engine. This is just what I have concluded. There is just no explanation to why sometimes i run 8.75 seconds 0-60 and other times I run 6.2. It's quite rediculous. I'm sure i'm not the only one who has noticed this.

Disagreements, additions, comments... Please give me some input. Again, these are only my assumptions, I am unsure of my accuracy in this situation.

 

how are you measuring your times?

 

Try replacing your IAT sensor. I dont think mine was reading correct from the factory. When I replaced mine, my car felt much more responsive and ran smoother. its only costs abnout $40 Shipped to your door and is real easy to install.

 

I already bought one of those AIT resistors. As far as a NEW IAT sensor- I dont know where to start.

 

I have tested my times with a hand timer. This car is beautiful but unfortuantly lacks lower end torque. VTEC only kicks in fully when between 5000 and 6800 RPMs and only once the engine has warmed up to a certain temperature.

 

i just read you signature...did you do these before you had the 19 in rims and subs? did you get a better battery or grounding kit after the sub install...voltage regulator?...i agree my preform differently but thats because of the air and the humidity...

 

Well yeah. It's a Honda not a Nissan. That should be expected.

Perhaps some of the differences can be attributed to the humidity, temperature, etc. not the ECU causing "horrible performance"?

Now, in 2006 Acura did "adjust the torque steer" by reducing the amount of torque in the lower gears. But this change should be consistent across the board. The differences I have seen in times is due to the weather, inconsistencies in the measurement, driver error, etc.

 

I just took my subs and amp to Cartoyz. They Did it

 

No, i mean did you notice this after the install of these to items as far as the weight, electrical power drainage and rotational mass?

 

Where did you get your IAT sensor from?

 

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no

No 12 in the pic!

 

maybe the ecu is pulling timing. My ecu in the TL went crazy, making the car run lean. I took 2 o2 sensors with it and kept pulling timing, not too mention the fouling of my 2 plugs. The dealer changed it and voila, it ran great.

 

Mine is down on performance as well. I can feel the computer pulling timing and putting it back in. It comes across as surging. It has been 105+ degrees around here so probably normal. I'm going to try some 100 unleaded and see if that gets rid of the surging.

 

Get a fan switch, my tl drove almost like it did in the winters after installing a fan switch.

 

Does this make the fan(s) run all the time?

 

3rd Gen TL's fan is controlled by the computer. No fan switch.

 

Duh, this is switch that turns the fan on before the computer turns them on, allowing the car to run cooler faster. What car do you know that needs the owner to manually turn the fans on? No car, but people put swiches in them or tune them to turn on earlier if they have the tuning capabilities. I had a switch in my TL and have the fans tuned in my Trans Am.

 

Do your telling me you can add a fan switch to our car. Well I am not sure what year TL you have, but on the 2nd gen tl's come with a fan switch. Not the 3rd.
You tell me where to put a switch in at.
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no

 

I'm assuming the computer triggers a relay for the fan. If that is so, all you have to do is run your own trigger wire to the relay. The only question I have is the fan probably comes on right around the thermostat opening temp. Assuming this is right, how can it run any cooler? Maybe I'm wrong in assuming.

 

You can use any universal fan swith and wire it inline with the fans wiring/powere harness. When you switch the fans on manually you bypass the ecu's control, when you turn it off the ecu does its thing. I had one on my 2nd gen and a lot of people have them on newer cars, especially vq owners and e46 m3 owners. Not to mention a lot of the vette and f body crowd. On track days, its a life saver while you are on the lanes.

 

OK lets say that your car is designed to run between 180 to 210 degrees. Having control over your fans can help you stay closer to the 180 degree side, especially in really hot weather/traffic. The tstat wont let you run cooler as it will stay closed once you hit that minimum temp range, but you will be in the cooler end of the spectrum. This is tried and true, i have a functional non dummy guage in my trans am and the temp stays at around 180-190 no matter the weather. In the winter i have the car run a little hotter.

 

That's what I was wondering. I have my race/toy car fan setup to come on right at the 160 degree thremostat opening so it's basically always on. I guess the TL fan comes on a few degrees hotter than what the thremostat opens at.