TL Track Bound
#1
TL Track Bound
Hey Guys,
Thought I would start a thread for those who want to track your TL's. I done some searching and there aren't that many threads talking about it so I thought I could give some before and after track day thoughts. I used to track my rather modded RSX-s quite often but this will be the first track day since I bought the car in December last year. Here's the setup I'll be using for my track day at BIR next week,
Engine/Drivetrain
-CAI
-PCD's
-J Pipe
-Custom 2.5" catback
-Short Shifter
-Shifter Bushings
-Pennzoil Synchromesh MTF
Suspension
-BWR Coilovers (Will review these too in seperate thread)
-Progress RSB
Brakes
-Slotted Front Rotors
-EBC Yellowstuff Race Pads
Wheels/Tires
-OEM Nissan Altima SE-R 18x8 and only 18 or 19lbs I think
-255/40 Michelin Pilots
For anyone thinking of tracking their 6MT TL, I really would consider this a minimal setup for a track day. In setting up the car, I've found the car is a lot more solid feeling in the corners but still could use more rigidity and adjustability. Didn't have time to do some things like to add downforce but the track I'm at has 13 corners so speeds shouldn't be so high as to need the increased downforce.
Here's the car as is today, yes it's dirty as shit.
![](http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff293/vill0169/IMG_1237.jpg)
Track Day is at the BIR short course on Thursday the 1st. I'll be sure to get some pics and video up shortly after the track day. If you have any suggestions or experience with the TL on the track weigh in and let's have some info to share with others.
Thought I would start a thread for those who want to track your TL's. I done some searching and there aren't that many threads talking about it so I thought I could give some before and after track day thoughts. I used to track my rather modded RSX-s quite often but this will be the first track day since I bought the car in December last year. Here's the setup I'll be using for my track day at BIR next week,
Engine/Drivetrain
-CAI
-PCD's
-J Pipe
-Custom 2.5" catback
-Short Shifter
-Shifter Bushings
-Pennzoil Synchromesh MTF
Suspension
-BWR Coilovers (Will review these too in seperate thread)
-Progress RSB
Brakes
-Slotted Front Rotors
-EBC Yellowstuff Race Pads
Wheels/Tires
-OEM Nissan Altima SE-R 18x8 and only 18 or 19lbs I think
-255/40 Michelin Pilots
For anyone thinking of tracking their 6MT TL, I really would consider this a minimal setup for a track day. In setting up the car, I've found the car is a lot more solid feeling in the corners but still could use more rigidity and adjustability. Didn't have time to do some things like to add downforce but the track I'm at has 13 corners so speeds shouldn't be so high as to need the increased downforce.
Here's the car as is today, yes it's dirty as shit.
![](http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff293/vill0169/IMG_1237.jpg)
Track Day is at the BIR short course on Thursday the 1st. I'll be sure to get some pics and video up shortly after the track day. If you have any suggestions or experience with the TL on the track weigh in and let's have some info to share with others.
#3
Road Racer / Solo Addict
Have fun at the track..
Subscribed to read about your experience..
Subscribed to read about your experience..
#4
LIST/RAMEN/WING MAHSTA 짱
iTrader: (16)
You have great rubber, so that's a plus.
Our cars won't need extra downforce, unless you have a straight at the track that's long enough to enable you to go 130mph+. (Just my opinion)
You missed the single most important thing for our cars. Your brakes need racing brake fluid. OEM fluid will have you in the paddock after your 2nd run.
Our cars won't need extra downforce, unless you have a straight at the track that's long enough to enable you to go 130mph+. (Just my opinion)
You missed the single most important thing for our cars. Your brakes need racing brake fluid. OEM fluid will have you in the paddock after your 2nd run.
#5
Hey thanks man. Here's some notes I jumbled down on track pads.
Brake Pads:
I really am not expert here but I wanted to share some info that I have gathered on track pads. I'm going to experiment with these EBC Yellowstuff pads because some consider them to be a pretty good bang for the buck. Most consider them a bit better than the Hawk HP+ and even though EBC says they are streetable, I really wouldn't. If I was serious about regularly doing track days, I would have definitely stepped up to a full race pad like the ST43 or Porterfield R4 or Hawk DTC-60s but being this a rare thing for me I felt the Yellowstuff pad would probably hold up ok, not to mention the full race pads run about $250 for a front set. I paid about $140 for the EBC's and think that with keeping the laps down and letting them really cool down between sessions will make them doable.
Anyone else used a similar pad on the track?
Brake Pads:
I really am not expert here but I wanted to share some info that I have gathered on track pads. I'm going to experiment with these EBC Yellowstuff pads because some consider them to be a pretty good bang for the buck. Most consider them a bit better than the Hawk HP+ and even though EBC says they are streetable, I really wouldn't. If I was serious about regularly doing track days, I would have definitely stepped up to a full race pad like the ST43 or Porterfield R4 or Hawk DTC-60s but being this a rare thing for me I felt the Yellowstuff pad would probably hold up ok, not to mention the full race pads run about $250 for a front set. I paid about $140 for the EBC's and think that with keeping the laps down and letting them really cool down between sessions will make them doable.
Anyone else used a similar pad on the track?
#7
You have great rubber, so that's a plus.
Our cars won't need extra downforce, unless you have a straight at the track that's long enough to enable you to go 130mph+. (Just my opinion)
You missed the single most important thing for our cars. Your brakes need racing brake fluid. OEM fluid will have you in the paddock after your 2nd run.
Our cars won't need extra downforce, unless you have a straight at the track that's long enough to enable you to go 130mph+. (Just my opinion)
You missed the single most important thing for our cars. Your brakes need racing brake fluid. OEM fluid will have you in the paddock after your 2nd run.
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#9
RBF 600 is some good stuff. ATE Super Blue / Type 200 is almost as good but A LOT cheaper. The bonus with the ATE is when it comes time to change the brake fluid, you can clearly see when the old fluid is out and when the new is in.
Have fun at the track! Any chance of getting this on video?
Have fun at the track! Any chance of getting this on video?
#10
RBF 600 is some good stuff. ATE Super Blue / Type 200 is almost as good but A LOT cheaper. The bonus with the ATE is when it comes time to change the brake fluid, you can clearly see when the old fluid is out and when the new is in.
Have fun at the track! Any chance of getting this on video?
Have fun at the track! Any chance of getting this on video?
Definitely, will have a GoPro and another camera mounted between the front seats.
#11
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Nice man!!!... Ive been wanting to set up my TL for the track!... Let me know how the suspension and brakes set up work out with the results!!... Would it be a big issue since mine is 5 A/T?...
#13
![Thumbs Up](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
BTW - what brand are the slotted rotors?
#14
Team Owner
It's not a big deal but I do disagree a little with the automatic comment. There should not be enough difference to really matter and especially not enough for the automatic to find a slower group. There are times when the slip of the torque convertor can actually help on the low speed tracks where you're "in between" gears so the engine does not bog. A memeber here took first place in his region in an auto TL with nothing but a RSB and a-spec suspension. Granted it was supercharged.
#17
I Really don't want this thread to turn into a 6MT/AT battle, so let's not please. My only reasoning for the AT thoughts are the things that are most noticable on a track that the 6MT's have that the AT's are lacking. Of course driver skill is EVERYTHING but it doesn't help that the TL AT's don't have an LSD, have much more limited front race pad selection, thinner oem sways, etc.
Could you do it? Yes.
Would I? No
Would you have been better of with a 6MT in the first place if you were interested in road racing? Yes
But, to each their own.
Update on Brake Pads:
Holy crap make sure you buy these early! All the EBC pads have that stupid Brake-In coating on them and it takes a while to get that shit wore off the pads. I don't know why they'd but that on a pad that aren't really meant for the street but whatever. I think they say that it takes 200 city miles to wear the stuff off but I totally intend to cook that shit off asap. I think I can tell I'm starting to get to the actual pad cuz it's finally starting to squeek and squeel a bit like a normal race pad.
Could you do it? Yes.
Would I? No
Would you have been better of with a 6MT in the first place if you were interested in road racing? Yes
But, to each their own.
Update on Brake Pads:
Holy crap make sure you buy these early! All the EBC pads have that stupid Brake-In coating on them and it takes a while to get that shit wore off the pads. I don't know why they'd but that on a pad that aren't really meant for the street but whatever. I think they say that it takes 200 city miles to wear the stuff off but I totally intend to cook that shit off asap. I think I can tell I'm starting to get to the actual pad cuz it's finally starting to squeek and squeel a bit like a normal race pad.
#18
Drifting
iTrader: (1)
I Really don't want this thread to turn into a 6MT/AT battle, so let's not please. My only reasoning for the AT thoughts are the things that are most noticable on a track that the 6MT's have that the AT's are lacking. Of course driver skill is EVERYTHING but it doesn't help that the TL AT's don't have an LSD, have much more limited front race pad selection, thinner oem sways, etc.
Could you do it? Yes.
Would I? No
Would you have been better of with a 6MT in the first place if you were interested in road racing? Yes
But, to each their own.
Update on Brake Pads:
Holy crap make sure you buy these early! All the EBC pads have that stupid Brake-In coating on them and it takes a while to get that shit wore off the pads. I don't know why they'd but that on a pad that aren't really meant for the street but whatever. I think they say that it takes 200 city miles to wear the stuff off but I totally intend to cook that shit off asap. I think I can tell I'm starting to get to the actual pad cuz it's finally starting to squeek and squeel a bit like a normal race pad.
Could you do it? Yes.
Would I? No
Would you have been better of with a 6MT in the first place if you were interested in road racing? Yes
But, to each their own.
Update on Brake Pads:
Holy crap make sure you buy these early! All the EBC pads have that stupid Brake-In coating on them and it takes a while to get that shit wore off the pads. I don't know why they'd but that on a pad that aren't really meant for the street but whatever. I think they say that it takes 200 city miles to wear the stuff off but I totally intend to cook that shit off asap. I think I can tell I'm starting to get to the actual pad cuz it's finally starting to squeek and squeel a bit like a normal race pad.
#19
Ok brake update again. Finally got that brake-in coating shit wore off the pads but after having my fluid flushed this morning, my brakes are feeling pretty spongy unless I pump them a bit while braking. Why would you say that is? I had the shop swap in the fluid and I watched them bleed them but still the pedal isn't as firm as firm unless I pump the brakes.
HELP! lol track is on Thursday!
HELP! lol track is on Thursday!
#20
Team Owner
It's somewhat normal to bleed the brakes, hit ABS a couple times and have to re-bleed the brakes on these cars.
Air can get trapped in the ABS modulator and it only gets released when it cycles.
There's a recall out for certain modulators which cause a spongy pedal. I'm sure if yours was fine up until they were bled, that's not your problem.
The sponginess is air for sure, assuming you have no mechanical stuff failing which I'm sure it's not. Bleed them again and you should be ok.
Air can get trapped in the ABS modulator and it only gets released when it cycles.
There's a recall out for certain modulators which cause a spongy pedal. I'm sure if yours was fine up until they were bled, that's not your problem.
The sponginess is air for sure, assuming you have no mechanical stuff failing which I'm sure it's not. Bleed them again and you should be ok.
#22
It's somewhat normal to bleed the brakes, hit ABS a couple times and have to re-bleed the brakes on these cars.
Air can get trapped in the ABS modulator and it only gets released when it cycles.
There's a recall out for certain modulators which cause a spongy pedal. I'm sure if yours was fine up until they were bled, that's not your problem.
The sponginess is air for sure, assuming you have no mechanical stuff failing which I'm sure it's not. Bleed them again and you should be ok.
Air can get trapped in the ABS modulator and it only gets released when it cycles.
There's a recall out for certain modulators which cause a spongy pedal. I'm sure if yours was fine up until they were bled, that's not your problem.
The sponginess is air for sure, assuming you have no mechanical stuff failing which I'm sure it's not. Bleed them again and you should be ok.
lol I was hoping you would chime in! Thanks for the tip, as I didn't know that. Any way to engage the ABS other than in the obvious way?
Thanks again.
#23
Burning Brakes
I tracked my car a couple years ago and had my friend in an Evo film me from behind. Definitely a fun car to drive but front wheel drive is not my preference in tracks. ![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CiTFWBKDvMs
![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CiTFWBKDvMs
#24
I don't believe so. Not sure if you have stainless steel brake lines but those will help, not with the air in your lines but you'll have a nice firmer pedal once you get that air out.
#28
Team Owner
They perform excellent. I've been running the Nitto NT05 for over 20,000 miles with a couple track days and they're excellent. I've also run the BFG G-force KDW-2 and Sports in the 255/40/17 size on stock rims.
#31
Team Owner
Check out the Nitto NT05 if you're looking for a tire like that. Most people rate them just a little higher but I've heard nothing but good things about the star specs too.
A local dealer is selling them for $650 out the door, mounted, Hunter roadforce balanced and taxes. I paid $850 for the set I have now.
#32
Pro
iTrader: (1)
Check out the Nitto NT05 if you're looking for a tire like that. Most people rate them just a little higher but I've heard nothing but good things about the star specs too.
A local dealer is selling them for $650 out the door, mounted, Hunter roadforce balanced and taxes. I paid $850 for the set I have now.
A local dealer is selling them for $650 out the door, mounted, Hunter roadforce balanced and taxes. I paid $850 for the set I have now.
I also considered your Nitto because you run them IHC
![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Otherwise i would have got those Nitto if they came in 245.
Dunlop Direzza Star Spec Z1. You wont have any complaints!
#33
Team Owner
Nittos always run a little narrow. These are narrower than my old BFG 255s.
I got them for the stopping and cornering. At 210whp, I have no straight line traction problems.
Starspecs are great. Unless you're tracking it all the time I would go with whichever one you can get the best deal on.
The really good thing about the Nittos is they have a very gentle breakaway point. No worries about spinning the car with these.
I got them for the stopping and cornering. At 210whp, I have no straight line traction problems.
Starspecs are great. Unless you're tracking it all the time I would go with whichever one you can get the best deal on.
The really good thing about the Nittos is they have a very gentle breakaway point. No worries about spinning the car with these.
#35
Check out the Nitto NT05 if you're looking for a tire like that. Most people rate them just a little higher but I've heard nothing but good things about the star specs too.
A local dealer is selling them for $650 out the door, mounted, Hunter roadforce balanced and taxes. I paid $850 for the set I have now.
A local dealer is selling them for $650 out the door, mounted, Hunter roadforce balanced and taxes. I paid $850 for the set I have now.
![Drool](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/drool.gif)
Couple of questions...
how many miles do you expect out of them?
I have 18 x 8 wheels so the recommended tire size is 235/40....would you recommend 245/40? What are the pros and cons?
BTW - These tires will pretty much be track tires only. I may mount them a few days in advance and will unmount them the day after.
#36
Team Owner
Thanks for the heads up. I normally go on tirerack so I never even considered the Nitto's. They look pretty aggressive and the limited reviews I read were all positive. Saw the NT01's as well and those look sick!!! ![Drool](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/drool.gif)
Couple of questions...
how many miles do you expect out of them?
I have 18 x 8 wheels so the recommended tire size is 235/40....would you recommend 245/40? What are the pros and cons?
BTW - These tires will pretty much be track tires only. I may mount them a few days in advance and will unmount them the day after.
![Drool](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/drool.gif)
Couple of questions...
how many miles do you expect out of them?
I have 18 x 8 wheels so the recommended tire size is 235/40....would you recommend 245/40? What are the pros and cons?
BTW - These tires will pretty much be track tires only. I may mount them a few days in advance and will unmount them the day after.
I've got just over 20,000 miles on mine so far. They will last fairly long as long as your alignment is spot on which is the case with most of these types of tires.
I would do a 255 on an 8" rim. I've run 255s for the past 60,000 miles and no negatives.
![](http://inlinethumb62.webshots.com/16829/2091465190060522784S600x600Q85.jpg)
#40
Team Owner
Can't wait to hear about it.
![Thumbs Up](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)