TL motor is toast

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Old 11-07-2011, 02:37 PM
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TL motor is toast

After a 2+ year oil consumption battle with my TL, the motor finally died last Friday I won't bother to explain what the battle means but if you're interested, search my previous posts and you'll get the story. As I await the shops official diagnosis I have been putting together a list of other parts I'll need to replace that would be much easier done while the motor is being rebuilt:
  • oil pump
  • power steering pump
  • master cylinder (not broke but brakes need replacing so why not)
  • crank shaft pulley (not broke but a lightweight upgrade would be nice)
  • clutch set and pilot bearing (also not broke but needs to be replaced none the less...maybe a performance upgrade)
With the 155,000 miles on it and considering that I am now committed to keeping the car for several more years (with this engine rebuild) I figure I might as well replace these other components. I replaced the water pump when I replaced the timing belt at 93K. Does anyone see anything else missing? I should also list the catalytic convertors...although they never really showed a performance issue (only the occassional engine light/oxygen sensor code), I have to assume the oil consumption has had a major effect on them after 2+ years eating oil. I was actualy thinking of those P2R resonated pre-cat deletes as a replacement.


Alternatively, I was thinking it might be more cost effective to just swap the motor with another used one (i.e. less labor). I can handle the small stuff (like the timing belt and brakes) but an engine rebuild or replacement is out of my league without a lift, chain fall and TOOLS! Looking around I have come across 3 used motors listed between $1300 and $1800. The $1800 one said 36K miles while the other 2 listed no mileage. Seems they won't tell me unless I call them.

During my search I began to wonder if I could fit an RL motor in a TL (with minimal hassle)....I'm talking like swapping motor mounts or something small like that. Of course it would mean I would have to replace the tranny too so that installation needs to be considered as well. Does anyone have any expereince or knowledge on this?

TIA to all that reply.
Old 11-07-2011, 03:22 PM
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No, the RL has the j35 engine...it will not bolt up to your transmission.

How much is just the rebuild going to be?
How much is just the labor to remove & replace the engine?

I doubt you'll come out ahead by rebuilding your current motor as opposed to buying/installing a used engine, unless you can do all of the work yourself (minus the machining). Even then, there would be significant downtime while you did the work.

You can probably find <50K j32s on car-part.com for <$1000 (+shipping). You will probably want to do the 105k service while it's out (except for plugs & valve adjustment).

You will want to look inside the precats from above to see if the honeycomb catalyst has been clogged or damaged once you remove them from the engine. If they aren't in good shape, upgrade to HFPCs or PCDs.

...Good Luck!

Last edited by gwiffer; 11-07-2011 at 03:26 PM.
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Old 11-07-2011, 08:52 PM
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Did you ever figure out where the oil was going, ever get a comression test or cylinder leakdown test prior to the failure?
Old 11-08-2011, 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by tommypenguin
Did you ever figure out where the oil was going, ever get a comression test or cylinder leakdown test prior to the failure?
no, never...
Old 11-08-2011, 01:40 PM
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quote from shop

does this quote seem reasonable to you guys? sure is a lot of cash...wish I had a lift and chain fall. The shop normally works on german cars so its likely they have some fluff in their labor to account for the learning curve but they have a very good reputation none the less.

I know I can get the parts cheaper...already checked acuraautomotiveparts.org.
Attached Files
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invoice.pdf (55.1 KB, 285 views)

Last edited by duckengine; 11-08-2011 at 01:43 PM.
Old 11-08-2011, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by duckengine
does this quote seem reasonable to you guys? sure is a lot of cash...wish I had a lift and chain fall. The shop normally works on german cars so its likely they have some fluff in their labor to account for the learning curve but they have a very good reputation none the less.

I know I can get the parts cheaper...already checked acuraautomotiveparts.org.
If you can get the car to chicago I can do it for much less. Depending on the year of the car we're talking about 50% of the value of the car just to change out a engine.
Old 11-08-2011, 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by duckengine
does this quote seem reasonable to you guys? sure is a lot of cash...wish I had a lift and chain fall. The shop normally works on german cars so its likely they have some fluff in their labor to account for the learning curve but they have a very good reputation none the less.

I know I can get the parts cheaper...already checked acuraautomotiveparts.org.
Too much money, especially considering the engine has 92k on it. They're jacking the price on all the parts as well, to the tune of retail plus 50%. And remember, they're getting the parts wholesale, so they're marking up ~100%.
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Old 11-08-2011, 06:01 PM
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WOW...that's a lot of coin for a well used engine & labor.

I would think an independent shop could do:

~$1000 used J32
~$1000 labor
~$1000 misc (TB/WP kit, seals, fluids, etc.)
--------
~$3000

I don't know how realistic this is though.

Last edited by gwiffer; 11-08-2011 at 06:07 PM.
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Old 11-08-2011, 08:27 PM
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Just buy a used motor.
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Old 11-09-2011, 05:25 PM
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thats ridiculous.

The J32 is fairly common, and should be had for between $1000-1500.

I've replaced engines on a bunch of different cars. I've never been charged more than 1000 bucks for labor.

That being said, even 3000$ is too high for just R&R+parts.

I would advise you to buy a used engine from a reputable junkyard WITH A WARRANTY so you're covered. I know you ran into problems with your factory installed engine, but I doubt very many mechanics can replicate the original factory's "craftsmanship." Simply put, i don't think very many mechanics can really rebuild an engine and without creating more problems.

Last edited by quanaman; 11-09-2011 at 05:31 PM.
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Old 11-09-2011, 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by ppypants
WOW...that's a lot of coin for a well used engine & labor.

I would think an independent shop could do:

~$1000 used J32
~$1000 labor
~$1000 misc (TB/WP kit, seals, fluids, etc.)
--------
~$3000

I don't know how realistic this is though.
That's very realistic. Motors these days are literally plug and play. Any shop should be be able to swap a motor within 10 to 12 hours.
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Old 11-10-2011, 03:20 PM
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my car is on its way back to "my garage". I already ordered me a used motor for $1100 and am going to dust off the tools and do this myself. The last motor i swapped was from a plymouth duster about 25 years ago. Can't be that much harder, right...wish me luck guys and thanks for all the feed back.

i'll search after this post but if anyone has a link to a motor swap DIY, please send along.

thanks

Last edited by duckengine; 11-10-2011 at 03:26 PM.
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Old 11-10-2011, 03:27 PM
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Props to you for getting down and dirty!!!!!!!!!!!!
Old 11-10-2011, 03:43 PM
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Goodluck with the work!

Also, You can probably get an engine hoist for 100-200 from Harbor Freight Tools.

They dont have the BEST quality tools but I usually buy stuff that I don't use all that often from them. And its likely you'll only need the hoist once (fingers crossed lol) so it's probably your best bet....or you can probably rent one...lol

Anywho, check the 3G garage for install tips. I doubt there's a whole engine swap DIY but theres others that would probably help you get close.
Old 11-10-2011, 04:38 PM
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Take some progress pics...this would be very cool to watch.
Old 11-10-2011, 07:47 PM
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I would rent a engine hoist. There are some tools you just don't buy from a super cheap place like Harbor Frieght. Floor jacks, jack stands and any other item you need to trust your life with. It would probably be cheaper to rent anyway. Good luck with the install.
Old 11-11-2011, 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Hi speed
I would rent a engine hoist. There are some tools you just don't buy from a super cheap place like Harbor Frieght. Floor jacks, jack stands and any other item you need to trust your life with. It would probably be cheaper to rent anyway. Good luck with the install.
I used the Harbor Freight (Central Hydraulics) 2 Ton Capacity Foldable Shop Crane to R&R the D16/tranny in my EF Civic. I know the J32 is substantially heavier, but I had good results using it.
Old 11-12-2011, 06:35 PM
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We swapped a j30 from an accord in about 6 hrs. Customer purchased a used engine and had us do the timing belt/ water pump/ valve adjust/ all seals.
Old 11-12-2011, 08:41 PM
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Plymouth Duster from 25 years ago, hey this guy is a Mopar fan! Glad to see you are swapping the engine yourself. I wish I were closer, I would be glad to help. Need a garage up there for a job that big. Hope you have a heater. More electrical connectors and metric tools, but you'll be just fine.

Cheers,

Burt 1971 Roadrunner back in the 1980's, 2007 Acura TL now.
Old 11-14-2011, 03:39 PM
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Red face

Originally Posted by quanaman
Goodluck with the work!

Also, You can probably get an engine hoist for 100-200 from Harbor Freight Tools.

They dont have the BEST quality tools but I usually buy stuff that I don't use all that often from them. And its likely you'll only need the hoist once (fingers crossed lol) so it's probably your best bet....or you can probably rent one...lol

Anywho, check the 3G garage for install tips. I doubt there's a whole engine swap DIY but theres others that would probably help you get close.
********
Question
Where is the link to view the 3G garage???
Can someone tell me if it's in any sublinks?

Can't seem to find it on acurazine.
Old 11-20-2011, 09:09 AM
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Quick Progress update

Thought i would jump in and give you guys a quick update.

Old motor is out and on the hoist and I'm swapping parts over to the new motor. New motor arrived in 6-7 days nicely wrapped in plastic and wire tied to a pallet. Motor was exceptionally clean and almost looked new (rebuilt). Upon closer inspection I realized they had done some superficial painting to the block and timing belt covers which made it look shiny and new. Not sure why and admittedly it makes me a little nervous but the motor does "look" pretty good - very clean. They did a good job taking the time sealing all the orifices with fitted caps and duct tape; just not sure why the paint - makes me wonder if they're trying to cover something up. Anyway, had to pull off the intake manifold to remove what was left over from their hack job of the previous engine wiring harness and to swap over my old wiring harness - that requires new gaskets so I'm partially on hold until those arrive.

Thinking of cleaning the intake but not sure what the best approach is or just leave it. Advice?

I discovered the front catalytic converter was toast as it sounded like a tin can with a bunch of rocks in it. Looking up the exhaust port on the motor I could clearly see the valves were badly corroded - obviously the oil burning was quite bad on this side. The rear converter and valves looked ok. Need to order new cats.

As previously mentioned, I'm looking at replacing these with the PCD's. I thought i saw some previous postings on PCD's with a resonator to cut down on the rasp, droning?? I don't mind a little extra noise but I don't want it annoying as i do a lot of highway driving. I'll trade a little noise for increased performance though. Advice?

Thanks!

Here are a few pix:
Attached Thumbnails TL motor is toast-img_0046.jpg   TL motor is toast-img_0047.jpg   TL motor is toast-img_0066.jpg   TL motor is toast-img_0075.jpg   TL motor is toast-img_0078.jpg  

TL motor is toast-img_0082.jpg   TL motor is toast-img_0083.jpg   TL motor is toast-img_0084.jpg   TL motor is toast-img_0087.jpg  
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Old 11-20-2011, 09:23 AM
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This reminds me.....


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Everything is pretty much straight forward, it tooke me about 3 weeks cause i ordered some parts but you shouldnt have any issues. Just make sure you put each plug back in its bracket
Old 11-20-2011, 09:43 AM
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Wow...you guys are balsy...nicely done.
Josiel, Westchester? Or further S and W?
Old 11-20-2011, 11:23 AM
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Nice job so far. They tend to recondition motors externally, it's nothing to Be alarmed about
Old 11-20-2011, 03:05 PM
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you want to sell me your old runners and valve covers? ^^

Good work on the motor swap
Old 11-20-2011, 06:57 PM
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just ordered the RV6 HFPC's...Thanks for the quick turn around Rich!
Old 11-20-2011, 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by thisaznboi88
you want to sell me your old runners and valve covers? ^^

Good work on the motor swap

Let me finish the job and I'll get back with you.
Old 11-20-2011, 07:06 PM
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^ take your time. Probably not going to start on my project till winter break.
Old 11-20-2011, 08:11 PM
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Thanks for the pics!

Did you remove the radiator?
Old 11-20-2011, 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by duckengine
just ordered the RV6 HFPC's...Thanks for the quick turn around Rich!
No problem. I will ship them out tonight or first thing tomorrow.
Old 11-21-2011, 07:46 AM
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Rockstar.. I'm further south I live in hialeah
Old 11-21-2011, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by ppypants
Thanks for the pics!

Did you remove the radiator?
No - just the ac fan.
Old 11-21-2011, 11:44 AM
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HELP! I need tools for the clutch replacement. I just called the stealership…they said they won’t loan me a tool but I could buy them….the pressure plate thingy is $370…the cutch line up tool is $70.

Does anyone know where else I can get these. I could fabricate the line up tool but do I really need the pressure plate tool? Never used one before on my other cars (Toyota).
Old 11-21-2011, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by duckengine
HELP! I need tools for the clutch replacement. I just called the stealership…they said they won’t loan me a tool but I could buy them….the pressure plate thingy is $370…the cutch line up tool is $70.

Does anyone know where else I can get these. I could fabricate the line up tool but do I really need the pressure plate tool? Never used one before on my other cars (Toyota).
$70 is way too much for a plastic piece. Ill check and see if I have a one laying around. I think autozone might rent out a universal set.
Old 11-21-2011, 03:28 PM
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Awesome, once you do a motor swap, you can do anything lol... I helped a buddy swap an H22 into a 2g prelude, it was exhausting but rewarding.

Have fun!
Old 11-21-2011, 05:24 PM
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Here's all of the special tools listed in the manual:

07AAE-P8EA000 Pressure plate compressor
07AAF-P8EA000 Clutch alignment shaft
07AAK-P8EA000 Pressure plate compressor adapter
07LAB-PV00100 or 07924-PD20003 Ring gear holder
07746-0010200 Attachment, 37 x 40mm
07749-0010000 Driver

I saw the pressure plate compressor on Majestic Honda parts for ~$250 and I've heard that it is very necessary to properly install the clutch/pressure plate. You could buy it and I'm sure someone would pick it up from you in the blackmarket later on.
Old 11-21-2011, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by ppypants
Here's all of the special tools listed in the manual:

07AAE-P8EA000 Pressure plate compressor
07AAF-P8EA000 Clutch alignment shaft
07AAK-P8EA000 Pressure plate compressor adapter
07LAB-PV00100 or 07924-PD20003 Ring gear holder
07746-0010200 Attachment, 37 x 40mm
07749-0010000 Driver

I saw the pressure plate compressor on Majestic Honda parts for ~$250 and I've heard that it is very necessary to properly install the clutch/pressure plate. You could buy it and I'm sure someone would pick it up from you in the blackmarket later on.

I've done 6 of these clutches without one. Just carefully tighten the pressure plate down a little on each side with the alignment tool. You want to be able to slide the alignment tool in and out with barely any resistance.

If you haven't purchased your clutch yet this guy is selling the OEM clutch made by LUK with all the alignment tool, and bearings.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LUK-CLUTCH-K...item255fb27e03
Old 11-21-2011, 08:24 PM
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Found it

http://www.clutchtools.com/index.php?productID=37941
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Old 11-21-2011, 10:22 PM
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Is the flywheel in good condition?

Can they be resurfaced?
Old 11-26-2011, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by ppypants
Is the flywheel in good condition?

Can they be resurfaced?
That's a great question. It looks ok...in fact the clutch disk looked really good too. However, the plate mounted to the flywheel is loose. I don't means the mounting bolts are loose; I mean the plate itself. Is that supposed to be that way?


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