Thinking about puttin a button (nos)....
i been looking around the market and seen some things. ive been wanting to put nitrous
for some time now, and im moving closer to my mark. i just dont know which one because theirs a few different ones..
50-80 HP does sound good, but not for a couple months and then have to rebuild the engine. I would recommend running methanol injection too.
IMO for the kit at $800 then installation, then methanol, then having to refill the tank for $~50 every so many runs its cheaper to buy my sc for 3100 and run safely with a few more mods such as methanol, two step colder spark plugs ($40). 4K to have 80hp constant and save your engine more than NO.
IMO for the kit at $800 then installation, then methanol, then having to refill the tank for $~50 every so many runs its cheaper to buy my sc for 3100 and run safely with a few more mods such as methanol, two step colder spark plugs ($40). 4K to have 80hp constant and save your engine more than NO.
hmm sounds good to me.... i was just looking around, i still need some time before i end up buying a sc, but i will definitely have that in mind. thanks for the opinions.
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Why does everyone call it NOS? Thats a friggin company...Its called nitrous. I get irritated as hell when people call it that. Anyway I think it would be nice if you understood how it properly worked. It takes more than a button to get your "power".
+1, thats why I said NO, nitrous oxide.
For the same reason people call trimmers weedeaters and adjustable wrenches cresent wreches and personal watercrafts jet skis.
OP, there are a couple of good, informative threads in the performance mods section. I've been thinking of nitrous or the S/C myself. As the others have said, and what you'll (hopefully) read in the older threads, theres a lot of prep work involved in just readying the engine to safely handle this increase in hp and (spike) in torque!
Hey "sabioj" i see ur in YOnkers lol but yea u can run nitruous reliably but just gotta make sure u take the right steps. First off dont use a dry shot! on our cars and i would start off with a 50 shot! Theres more steps u should u take but if u do it right u should be fine. Also get an A/F ratio gauge to see where ur levels r at and a knock monitor if u can. With the car properly tuned u should be fine.
Ran a 100 wet shot on my TL. It's nice. Except when the nos runs out then spending 50$ to refill it a no no :|
Last edited by taker777; Aug 23, 2010 at 12:27 PM.
Find a used zex kit.
A dry kit and it's really easy to install,set up.
All you have to do is change jets.
The box adjusts the fuel.
You are not going to find a easyier way to make big power.
Up to a 75 shot the only thing you will HAVE to do is get one step colder plugs.
100 shot you will need a bigger fuel pump and should use 2 steps colder plugs.
Anything over 100 shot you are going to need some kind of engine management so you can retard the timing ?
But you can add a 75 shot with no issues and it will add about 50-60 hp.
I pieced my first kit together for less than $300.
It may cost 35-50 to fill but,it's well worth it.
Basically no maintaince.
Don't let anyone steer you away from the nitrous.
It is less abusive than a s/c.
S/C is constintly adding boost,nitrous is when you want only.
Also running down the strip a 100 shot tl will smoke a $4,000 s/c one.
Look into a zex dry kit,
It will be the best money you ever spent.
You will smile from ear to ear the first time you spray it.
Guaranteed
A dry kit and it's really easy to install,set up.
All you have to do is change jets.
The box adjusts the fuel.
You are not going to find a easyier way to make big power.
Up to a 75 shot the only thing you will HAVE to do is get one step colder plugs.
100 shot you will need a bigger fuel pump and should use 2 steps colder plugs.
Anything over 100 shot you are going to need some kind of engine management so you can retard the timing ?
But you can add a 75 shot with no issues and it will add about 50-60 hp.
I pieced my first kit together for less than $300.
It may cost 35-50 to fill but,it's well worth it.
Basically no maintaince.
Don't let anyone steer you away from the nitrous.
It is less abusive than a s/c.
S/C is constintly adding boost,nitrous is when you want only.
Also running down the strip a 100 shot tl will smoke a $4,000 s/c one.
Look into a zex dry kit,
It will be the best money you ever spent.
You will smile from ear to ear the first time you spray it.
Guaranteed
If you're going to run it with basically no experience, start with a 35hp wet shot. I tried my oooold kit that I used back in the '90s to spool the turbo for one race on my TL and that was it. 35hp feels like more than 35hp since it will bring at least 35lbs of torque with it and it will be at whatever rpm you trigger it at.
I've thought about permanently intalling a 35 shot just because my TL is so incredibly slow. I generally don't like nitrous but as often as I would use it, a bottle would last me a few months so I can live with that.
If you get up around a 100 shot, you need to go to a colder plug, monitor knock, and this is where you need to start getting into higher octane fuel.
Check out some of Inaccurate's threads on nitrous. He's doing it the right way with a supplimental nitrous fuel system (methanol) along wtih many safety items to help the engine live for a long time on a decent sized shot.
I've thought about permanently intalling a 35 shot just because my TL is so incredibly slow. I generally don't like nitrous but as often as I would use it, a bottle would last me a few months so I can live with that.
If you get up around a 100 shot, you need to go to a colder plug, monitor knock, and this is where you need to start getting into higher octane fuel.
Check out some of Inaccurate's threads on nitrous. He's doing it the right way with a supplimental nitrous fuel system (methanol) along wtih many safety items to help the engine live for a long time on a decent sized shot.
Find a used zex kit.
A dry kit and it's really easy to install,set up.
All you have to do is change jets.
The box adjusts the fuel.
You are not going to find a easyier way to make big power.
Up to a 75 shot the only thing you will HAVE to do is get one step colder plugs.
100 shot you will need a bigger fuel pump and should use 2 steps colder plugs.
Anything over 100 shot you are going to need some kind of engine management so you can retard the timing ?
But you can add a 75 shot with no issues and it will add about 50-60 hp.
I pieced my first kit together for less than $300.
It may cost 35-50 to fill but,it's well worth it.
Basically no maintaince.
Don't let anyone steer you away from the nitrous.
It is less abusive than a s/c.
S/C is constintly adding boost,nitrous is when you want only.
Also running down the strip a 100 shot tl will smoke a $4,000 s/c one.
Look into a zex dry kit,
It will be the best money you ever spent.
You will smile from ear to ear the first time you spray it.
Guaranteed
A dry kit and it's really easy to install,set up.
All you have to do is change jets.
The box adjusts the fuel.
You are not going to find a easyier way to make big power.
Up to a 75 shot the only thing you will HAVE to do is get one step colder plugs.
100 shot you will need a bigger fuel pump and should use 2 steps colder plugs.
Anything over 100 shot you are going to need some kind of engine management so you can retard the timing ?
But you can add a 75 shot with no issues and it will add about 50-60 hp.
I pieced my first kit together for less than $300.
It may cost 35-50 to fill but,it's well worth it.
Basically no maintaince.
Don't let anyone steer you away from the nitrous.
It is less abusive than a s/c.
S/C is constintly adding boost,nitrous is when you want only.
Also running down the strip a 100 shot tl will smoke a $4,000 s/c one.
Look into a zex dry kit,
It will be the best money you ever spent.
You will smile from ear to ear the first time you spray it.
Guaranteed
WTF? This is waaaay off.
Even properly tuned, the nitrous is going to be harder on the engine than the blower for several reasons. This is well known by anyone who races or builds engines.
Boost is the most reliable way to add hp except for displacement. The two are not in the same league.
The supercharger only creates boost when you're into the throttle. Normal driving it's just freewheeling.
A dry kit, really? Unbelievable.
I've been running the dry for over a year so,what's way off.
I would never pay what it would cost to buy a charger kit with everything needed,install,and tune.
It would probablly be in the neiborhood of 5-6,000+.
dry kit at most 5-600.
Normal driving the sc just spinning freely ?
and at what rpm's is this spinning freely happening ?
If the sc is not getting it's signal from the tps how can it tell when your driving normal ?
Please explain,I would like to know how it can tell the differance.
With out knowing about the said comptech setup I would think the boost builds at a certain rpm's, say 2500+.
I bet the only time the car would not see boost from the charger would be cruising on the highway or looking for a parking spot.
I would never pay what it would cost to buy a charger kit with everything needed,install,and tune.
It would probablly be in the neiborhood of 5-6,000+.
dry kit at most 5-600.
Normal driving the sc just spinning freely ?
and at what rpm's is this spinning freely happening ?
If the sc is not getting it's signal from the tps how can it tell when your driving normal ?
Please explain,I would like to know how it can tell the differance.
With out knowing about the said comptech setup I would think the boost builds at a certain rpm's, say 2500+.
I bet the only time the car would not see boost from the charger would be cruising on the highway or looking for a parking spot.
I've been running the dry for over a year so,what's way off.
I would never pay what it would cost to buy a charger kit with everything needed,install,and tune.
It would probablly be in the neiborhood of 5-6,000+.
dry kit at most 5-600.
Normal driving the sc just spinning freely ?
and at what rpm's is this spinning freely happening ?
If the sc is not getting it's signal from the tps how can it tell when your driving normal ?
Please explain,I would like to know how it can tell the differance.
With out knowing about the said comptech setup I would think the boost builds at a certain rpm's, say 2500+.
I bet the only time the car would not see boost from the charger would be cruising on the highway or looking for a parking spot.
I would never pay what it would cost to buy a charger kit with everything needed,install,and tune.
It would probablly be in the neiborhood of 5-6,000+.
dry kit at most 5-600.
Normal driving the sc just spinning freely ?
and at what rpm's is this spinning freely happening ?
If the sc is not getting it's signal from the tps how can it tell when your driving normal ?
Please explain,I would like to know how it can tell the differance.
With out knowing about the said comptech setup I would think the boost builds at a certain rpm's, say 2500+.
I bet the only time the car would not see boost from the charger would be cruising on the highway or looking for a parking spot.
Now I'm interested in how the setup actually works.
ahh,here come some more knowledge with azine searches.
I drove a friend of mines granprix comp G for
a couple days and it did not seam to be like that.
It seamed like it was boosting at part throttle and not when fully on it.
still rather the nitrous either way.
Nitrous: a box,a bottle,and a couple lines,30 seconds to program.
Super charger : 100 pcs and you kill yourself between install and keeping it tuned.
ahh,here come some more knowledge with azine searches.
I drove a friend of mines granprix comp G for
a couple days and it did not seam to be like that.
It seamed like it was boosting at part throttle and not when fully on it.
still rather the nitrous either way.
Nitrous: a box,a bottle,and a couple lines,30 seconds to program.
Super charger : 100 pcs and you kill yourself between install and keeping it tuned.
Now I'm interested in how the setup actually works.
ahh,here come some more knowledge with azine searches.
I drove a friend of mines granprix comp G for
a couple days and it did not seam to be like that.
It seamed like it was boosting at part throttle and not when fully on it.
still rather the nitrous either way.
Nitrous: a box,a bottle,and a couple lines,30 seconds to program.
Super charger : 100 pcs and you kill yourself between install and keeping it tuned.
ahh,here come some more knowledge with azine searches.
I drove a friend of mines granprix comp G for
a couple days and it did not seam to be like that.
It seamed like it was boosting at part throttle and not when fully on it.
still rather the nitrous either way.
Nitrous: a box,a bottle,and a couple lines,30 seconds to program.
Super charger : 100 pcs and you kill yourself between install and keeping it tuned.
The easiest way to think of it is the intake manifold is always under some sort of pressure.
At idle and light throttle it's in negative pressure or vacuum. As you open the throttle more the vacuum decreases. Ideally at full throttle you want 0 vacuum in the intake manifold. You'll always pull just a little but it should be very close to 0.
Where the turbo or supercharger comes in is when you hit that 0 vacuum. Another way of putting it is the intake manifold at full throttle is at atmospheric pressure (the same pressure everything around you is at). Forced induction forces more air into the engine creating positive pressure also known as boost..
A turbo or supercharger is nothing more than a glorified air compressor. Instead of the engine having to suck the air in, the supercharger forces it in.
This positive pressure is a natural extension of an engine's operating range. There is nothing harmful about it. Instead of 0 psi being full throttle, you'll hit 0 very early on and whatever you have the boost limited to will be your new full throttle pressure. It now has more range. Instead of -18 to 0psi you now have -18 to 5psi or whatever it's set to.
With FI, you will hit 0 vacuum before you hit full throttle and transition into boost. A very lively turbo setup or roots blower can go to 0 vacuum and start making pressure by 1,500rpm.
Like I said, FI helps the engine breathe and it's linear. The more throttle you give it the more boost and power you make. Most people could not tell a turbo car from NA if you did not know already.
Nitrous on the other hand is instant. This is bad for several reasons.
First, you have no time to back out of the throttle should something happen like the fuel solenoid not opening. Damage happens in miliseconds on nitrous.
Second, the instant hit is harder on internals.
Third, since it's a chemical oxygenator it's been known to cause more heat in pistons and the combustion chamber as a whole which leads to a host of other issues.
Racing... It's on or off. If you're making any serious power you have to know when to inject it. There's no such thing as backing out of the throttle when you're on it.
It is a chemical. You're injecting something that was never intended to be injected into the engine. For fear of over simplifying it's "liquid air". Now what do you think is easier on the engine:
Something that increases natural airflow linearly with throttle or something that injects "liquid oxygen" all at once?
I'm not here to argue this point, it's a well known and proven fact that nitrous is harder on parts period.
And a dry shot...
Do you monitor knock, AF, or read your plugs? If not, you're driving a timebomb. Believe me, your fun will be limited. There are many safeguards out there to make it more reliable but something tells me you're not using any of them.
It's funny now but in the old days we used a turbo+ nitrous. I'm so happy for advances in turbo technology so nitrous is not necessary anymore.
Off topic but I was at a friend's shop and watched a 425" C6 Vette put down 470rwhp on motor and 808rwhp on the bottle. Only had the 200 pill but nitrous is funny that way. It had it's own 2 gallon race gas fuel cell in the front just for nitrous. It was fun to watch but just not my thing.
Off topic but I was at a friend's shop and watched a 425" C6 Vette put down 470rwhp on motor and 808rwhp on the bottle. Only had the 200 pill but nitrous is funny that way. It had it's own 2 gallon race gas fuel cell in the front just for nitrous. It was fun to watch but just not my thing.
I have friends that run 400 shots. One in particular in his junkyard 5.0 Mustang. He ran 3 stages. A 50 shot from the start, an additional 100shot when he hits second gear and 150 additional at the top of second. 300hp on a stock 5.0 with only headers and exhaust. It went 10.90s for a month at a time. Since he owned a junkyard, engines were practcally free. This guy used to have the first stage triggered with the throttle, second stage near the shifter, and 3rd stage with a button that he held in his mouth and bit lol. This was one of the few local guys I did not race for money because he didn't care if his stuff only held together for a couple runs.
I actually have 2 stages installed .
I have only used one.
I plan on making one to get it off the line.
And 1 after the wheels wont spin.
Till ecu,injectors,and lower end internals it will probally be
55 first shot then a addional 75.
If I had everything needed ,
I would want 75 first shot 125 2nd.
Both boxes

First injection spot

2nd injection spot

Bottle
I have only used one.
I plan on making one to get it off the line.
And 1 after the wheels wont spin.
Till ecu,injectors,and lower end internals it will probally be
55 first shot then a addional 75.
If I had everything needed ,
I would want 75 first shot 125 2nd.
Both boxes

First injection spot

2nd injection spot

Bottle
rich man. give up. and your setup looks like shit.i tried explaining that running a dry shot was a bad idea in another thread and you still dont get it. continue riding around with that untuned and enjoy your future burn valve (like another member with a 2g before you)
also, 3g guys should read some of this guys threads



