Supercharger for 3g TL?

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Old 06-06-2009, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by tihomirbg
So the tranny would handle the boost but the engine itself would not.

I know you mention to get the meth kit that can hold 100% meth. Wich one was it? Not the snow performance 'cause I know it is 50/50.
Alkycontrol.com is one of the best out there, probably the only one for pure meth. Julio (the owner) will talk to you for hours on the phone until you have it running right.

The engine will hold the power just fine. The problem is the detonation from lack of tuning with the blower. The meth gets rid of the detonation.

Another option to make the engine live is if you have convenient access to 100 unleaded in your area, mix that 50/50 in the tank and you'll be fine.

The trans will physically hold the power but you're going to generate a lot more heat. Once you exceed the stock power level, you're dumping more heat into the trans than it was designed to cope with. There's some overkill built into the stock cooling but you at a minimum want a good synthetic fluid in there to cope with the heat.

One member on here, Michael Benz has been auto crossing his supercharged auto TL for two years now I believe, even took first place in points one year, and I don't think he has a cooler on his. The only difference is the car is taken out and run hard for a relatively short duration and then it sits and cools off in between runs.
Old 06-06-2009, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by I hate cars
Alkycontrol.com is one of the best out there, probably the only one for pure meth. Julio (the owner) will talk to you for hours on the phone until you have it running right.

The engine will hold the power just fine. The problem is the detonation from lack of tuning with the blower. The meth gets rid of the detonation.

Another option to make the engine live is if you have convenient access to 100 unleaded in your area, mix that 50/50 in the tank and you'll be fine.

The trans will physically hold the power but you're going to generate a lot more heat. Once you exceed the stock power level, you're dumping more heat into the trans than it was designed to cope with. There's some overkill built into the stock cooling but you at a minimum want a good synthetic fluid in there to cope with the heat.

One member on here, Michael Benz has been auto crossing his supercharged auto TL for two years now I believe, even took first place in points one year, and I don't think he has a cooler on his. The only difference is the car is taken out and run hard for a relatively short duration and then it sits and cools off in between runs.
There is one gas station that has 110 unleaded. That is fine, right?

That guy that has been auto crossing his S/C TL, do you know by any chance what sinthetic fluid has he been using for his auto tran?
Old 06-06-2009, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by tihomirbg
There is one gas station that has 110 unleaded. That is fine, right?

That guy that has been auto crossing his S/C TL, do you know by any chance what sinthetic fluid has he been using for his auto tran?
Whoa! 110 UNLEADED? I know they make it but that's awesome if you have a pump near your place.

Shoot for about 96-98 octane overall when you fill up. You'll obviously need less of the 110 than 100. More octane is always safer, the only thing it will hurt is the wallet.

If money becomes an issue, you can always run normal pump gas and drive it easy.

I'm not sure what Michael used but I've used Amsoil for most of the car's life and it works great. Check out their "ATD" instead of their "ATF". I've run both but the ATD has been in the car for over half it's life now and it's a bit more heavy duty.
Old 06-06-2009, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by I hate cars
Whoa! 110 UNLEADED? I know they make it but that's awesome if you have a pump near your place.

Shoot for about 96-98 octane overall when you fill up. You'll obviously need less of the 110 than 100. More octane is always safer, the only thing it will hurt is the wallet.

If money becomes an issue, you can always run normal pump gas and drive it easy.

I'm not sure what Michael used but I've used Amsoil for most of the car's life and it works great. Check out their "ATD" instead of their "ATF". I've run both but the ATD has been in the car for over half it's life now and it's a bit more heavy duty.
I was cchcking and even though it says 110, people say it is 100.

We need unleaded not leaded, right.

ATF stand for automatic transmission fluid. What does ATD stand for?
Old 06-06-2009, 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by tihomirbg
I was cchcking and even though it says 110, people say it is 100.

We need unleaded not leaded, right.

ATF stand for automatic transmission fluid. What does ATD stand for?
Definately stay away from leaded. They're not allowed to sell leaded at the pump anyway so you're ok.

Amsoil uses ATF as the designation for their standard universal synthetic fluid. ATD is they heavy duty synthetic made to replace Transynd, the fluid found in Allison transmissions (busses, heavy equipment).

The ATD is slightly thicker at operating temp but it's still thinner and flows better cold than the stock Z1 fluid that came in the car. It has a more robust additive package and will take a higher heat for a longer time than their standard synthetic.

I've used Redline in the past with great results in my other car but never in the TL.
Old 06-06-2009, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by I hate cars
Definately stay away from leaded. They're not allowed to sell leaded at the pump anyway so you're ok.

Amsoil uses ATF as the designation for their standard universal synthetic fluid. ATD is they heavy duty synthetic made to replace Transynd, the fluid found in Allison transmissions (busses, heavy equipment).

The ATD is slightly thicker at operating temp but it's still thinner and flows better cold than the stock Z1 fluid that came in the car. It has a more robust additive package and will take a higher heat for a longer time than their standard synthetic.

I've used Redline in the past with great results in my other car but never in the TL.
So in the TL you use Amsoil ATD now.
Old 06-06-2009, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by tihomirbg
So in the TL you use Amsoil ATD now.
Yep. It's not on the recommended list for Honda ATs but then again practically nothing is. I wouldn't suggest it if I hadn't been running it trouble free for the last 50,000 miles. But at this point I think it's safe to say it has the correct frictional requirements for the TL. If it were still an "experiment" with 5,000 miles I would have a hard time suggesting it. As far as I know I'm the only one who has run it in a TL. Most who use Amsoil use their "ATF".
Old 06-06-2009, 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by I hate cars
Yep. It's not on the recommended list for Honda ATs but then again practically nothing is. I wouldn't suggest it if I hadn't been running it trouble free for the last 50,000 miles. But at this point I think it's safe to say it has the correct frictional requirements for the TL. If it were still an "experiment" with 5,000 miles I would have a hard time suggesting it. As far as I know I'm the only one who has run it in a TL. Most who use Amsoil use their "ATF".
Some were suggesting to change the trany fluid every 10,000-15,000 mi after it has been S/C. Even with the Amsoil ATF or ATD, I think this still applies?
Old 06-06-2009, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by tihomirbg
Some were suggesting to change the trany fluid every 10,000-15,000 mi after it has been S/C. Even with the Amsoil ATF or ATD, I think this still applies?
No way. The factory Z1 breaks down and oxidizes quickly with the extra heat and 10-15,000 is about right. This is one of the big advantages to a synthetic. 50,000 would be a conservative mileage with a good synthetic.

Just keep an eye on it. My ATD hasn't changed color in over 30,000 miles since I last did a drain and refill. If yours suddenly turns dark, you may want to change it.

With the high price of Z1 and the longer change interval with Amsoil or any synthetic, it's cheaper to run the good stuff.
Old 06-07-2009, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by I hate cars
No way. The factory Z1 breaks down and oxidizes quickly with the extra heat and 10-15,000 is about right. This is one of the big advantages to a synthetic. 50,000 would be a conservative mileage with a good synthetic.

Just keep an eye on it. My ATD hasn't changed color in over 30,000 miles since I last did a drain and refill. If yours suddenly turns dark, you may want to change it.

With the high price of Z1 and the longer change interval with Amsoil or any synthetic, it's cheaper to run the good stuff.
Is your TL S/C? 'cause, my tranny fliud needs to be chnaged any way and I am planing to S/C the TL.
Old 06-07-2009, 02:56 PM
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I just found out about AMSOIL Super Shift® Racing Transmission Fluid
AMSOIL Synthetic Super Shift Racing Transmission Fluid is recommended for automatic transmissions coupled to high horsepower, high torque engines. It is also recommended where heavy loads place a high demand on transmissions. Recommended where Allison C-4 or Ford Type F is required. Suggested automatic transmission applications:

• Drag Racing Cars and Trucks
• Monster Trucks
• Stock Cars
• Off Road 4x4 Vehicles
• Street Hot Rods

Does this sound something like for S/Ced Auto TL
Old 06-07-2009, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by tihomirbg
I just found out about AMSOIL Super Shift® Racing Transmission Fluid
AMSOIL Synthetic Super Shift Racing Transmission Fluid is recommended for automatic transmissions coupled to high horsepower, high torque engines. It is also recommended where heavy loads place a high demand on transmissions. Recommended where Allison C-4 or Ford Type F is required. Suggested automatic transmission applications:

• Drag Racing Cars and Trucks
• Monster Trucks
• Stock Cars
• Off Road 4x4 Vehicles
• Street Hot Rods

Does this sound something like for S/Ced Auto TL
Absolutely don't use that fluid in a Honda. It's a synthetic type F fluid. There are no friction modifiers so the frictional properties are waaaay too different for the TL's clutches. Honda's clutches are a high energy type and that's why you need the friction modifiers to make the fluid more slippery. You will kill it in short order with this fluid.

I used to use it on my other car and it makes more of a difference in shift firmness than you could imagine a fluid could make.
Old 06-07-2009, 04:36 PM
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I got ya. I looked at ATD and for 1 gallon it is about $45.
Old 06-10-2009, 12:07 AM
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so is it working finally ??
Old 08-24-2009, 08:11 PM
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Hey guys, I have been away for a while. I see that the experts are all over this place like "I HATE CARS" I love the Monte Carlo/Grand National. I’m in the military so I can’t be on here all the time. Sorry if I don’t read all the posts.

Q: with the supercharger, can I add the intercooler?
Q: I saw on here that one guy put on the turbo, is that a better route to take?

I want more power and but I want to save my car in the process LOL

Right now I have an injen CAI and a Greddy EvoII cat back I’m just trying to get to about 400hp. I have a guy in NC that will build me some headers. But what else can I do to get the HP up?

A lot of my questions come about because I don’t know how to search for s*** on the internet. haha

Your answers are well appreciated!
05 TL 6mt.
Old 08-24-2009, 09:21 PM
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Or better yet just get a turbocharger kit everything included self install , plus power and torque available in low rpm........everything that should have come with s/c is included in turbo kit , if u feel the urge for more power it's just a upgraded motor away , and a tune and you're on your way..
Old 08-25-2009, 11:29 AM
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Pass427, have you heard about TURBONETICS CERAMIC BALL-BEARING turbochargers? can the stock tl engine withstand the s/c and turbochargers, or will it eventually break the motor down?

http://www.turbocharged.com/catalog/ceramic.html
Old 08-25-2009, 11:40 AM
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where are some GOOD websites to find parts for TL's theres like nothing out there unless you are a computer wiz that knows how to find things on the internet
Old 08-25-2009, 11:48 AM
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^^^you could just buy your turbo from pass
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