Stoptech Front Rotor-New Design?
#1
Stoptech Front Rotor-New Design?
The pictures will mostly tell the story. I ordered these rotors from XLR8. I compared them with the same rotors in another thread and the differences are obvious. I checked around and also checked my boxes and these are indeed both Stoptech rotors.
The part numbers are the same... 127.40062R & 127.40062L.
All the pictures of the old rotors are from mmade22's thread and credit is to be his of the older photos. Here is his thread...
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...toptech+rotors
Old Rotor
New rotor
New rotor looks great! Difference are...
The part numbers are the same... 127.40062R & 127.40062L.
All the pictures of the old rotors are from mmade22's thread and credit is to be his of the older photos. Here is his thread...
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...toptech+rotors
Old Rotor
New rotor
New rotor looks great! Difference are...
- More holes. At least double. They are also more beveled than before. Also, there is a new pattern to the number of holes. They go 5,5,5,4,5,4,5,5,5,4,5,4.
- There used to be 8 slots per rotor side. Now there are only 6.
- Surface isn't smoothish. It has, I don't know how to describe it, uhhh, a machined surface.
#7
Hmmm...I got the stoptech pads to go along with these. Hopefully they won't warp. But if they ever do I'll still have my stockers around. I'll just soak the stock ones in WD40 and they should stay rust free.
The pics of them installed won't be up until this weekend.
djbonsu...you have the old ones. Maybe these won't warp.
The pics of them installed won't be up until this weekend.
djbonsu...you have the old ones. Maybe these won't warp.
Last edited by NCTL05; 08-04-2010 at 12:09 PM.
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#8
Son of a bitch!!! I got the passenger side done with no problems. But I could not get the caliper bolts off of the driver's side. My first attempt was using a ratchet and socket with a 3 ft breaker bar. There was a loud pop and I broke the ratchet. All the little gears inside stripped. Then I tried another ratchet with a 3 ft breaker bar and used a jack to raise the bar. POP!! TWIST!! It twisted the little ratchet nub right off. Scratch another ratchet. Then I borrowed my neighbors 1/2" drive SnapOn ratchet, used it and the breaker bar with the jack applying the pressure. Nothing. It turned at least 40 degrees without busting the bolts loose. When I let the jack down it just returned to it's starting position.
I mean what the FUCK!!! That means there is more than 100 ft-lb of torque on both of those bolts. They've never been off since the factory.
It pissed me off so much. I'm still mad. Instead of trying to use an air gun on it myself I'm going to go to the dealership and let them do that side. Whenever a bolt is that tight that means the head is going to twist off or the threads are going to strip out if it is removed. So I'll let the dealership fuck it up getting the bolts out. That way if they do mess it up then they'll be responsible for replacing the caliper and bolts for free.
Has anyone ever had this problem taking the caliper off the car before?? It's a brembo caliper. It's not reverse threaded on the driver's side is it?? I was doing lefty loosey.
I mean what the FUCK!!! That means there is more than 100 ft-lb of torque on both of those bolts. They've never been off since the factory.
It pissed me off so much. I'm still mad. Instead of trying to use an air gun on it myself I'm going to go to the dealership and let them do that side. Whenever a bolt is that tight that means the head is going to twist off or the threads are going to strip out if it is removed. So I'll let the dealership fuck it up getting the bolts out. That way if they do mess it up then they'll be responsible for replacing the caliper and bolts for free.
Has anyone ever had this problem taking the caliper off the car before?? It's a brembo caliper. It's not reverse threaded on the driver's side is it?? I was doing lefty loosey.
Last edited by NCTL05; 08-07-2010 at 11:04 PM.
#9
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
Hmmm...I got the stoptech pads to go along with these. Hopefully they won't warp. But if they ever do I'll still have my stockers around. I'll just soak the stock ones in WD40 and they should stay rust free.
The pics of them installed won't be up until this weekend.
djbonsu...you have the old ones. Maybe these won't warp.
The pics of them installed won't be up until this weekend.
djbonsu...you have the old ones. Maybe these won't warp.
Son of a bitch!!! I got the passenger side done with no problems. But I could not get the caliper bolts off of the driver's side. My first attempt was using a ratchet and socket with a 3 ft breaker bar. There was a loud pop and I broke the ratchet. All the little gears inside stripped. Then I tried another ratchet with a 3 ft breaker bar and used a jack to raise the bar. POP!! TWIST!! It twisted the little ratchet nub right off. Scratch another ratchet. Then I borrowed my neighbors 1/2" drive SnapOn ratchet, used it and the breaker bar with the jack applying the pressure. Nothing. It turned at least 40 degrees without busting the bolts loose. When I let the jack down it just returned to it's starting position.
I mean what the FUCK!!! That means there is more than 100 ft-lb of torque on both of those bolts. They've never been off since the factory.
It pissed me off so much. I'm still mad. Instead of trying to use an air gun on it myself I'm going to go to the dealership and let them do that side. Whenever a bolt is that tight that means the head is going to twist off or the threads are going to strip out if it is removed. So I'll let the dealership fuck it up getting the bolts out. That way if they do mess it up then they'll be responsible for replacing the caliper and bolts for free.
Has anyone ever had this problem taking the caliper off the car before?? It's a brembo caliper. It's not reverse threaded on the driver's side is it?? I was doing lefty loosey.
I mean what the FUCK!!! That means there is more than 100 ft-lb of torque on both of those bolts. They've never been off since the factory.
It pissed me off so much. I'm still mad. Instead of trying to use an air gun on it myself I'm going to go to the dealership and let them do that side. Whenever a bolt is that tight that means the head is going to twist off or the threads are going to strip out if it is removed. So I'll let the dealership fuck it up getting the bolts out. That way if they do mess it up then they'll be responsible for replacing the caliper and bolts for free.
Has anyone ever had this problem taking the caliper off the car before?? It's a brembo caliper. It's not reverse threaded on the driver's side is it?? I was doing lefty loosey.
#11
I just installed my stop tech rotors and pads about a month ago and they look the same as yours. I had a similar problem to yours though. I snapped one of the bolts on the right rear and then had to tap the piece out that was still stuck in there. It then took acura a few days to get in a new bolt but luckily I found a bolt laying around that did the trick for a couple days.
#12
The stop techs are designed to be drilled. None of the vanes have been drilled through.
#15
I just checked the service manual for the torque specs on the caliper bolts cause I was curious. For the Brembo calipers the bolts are torqued to 125 ft-lbs. Why!? The normal calipers are only torqued to 80 ft-lbs. Why such a difference? No wonder I broke my tools.
#17
Here are pics of the one I was able to put on. I haven't broken it in yet. I'm waiting to get the other one on before I do that.
#19
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (1)
They are actually better quality than the ROTORA. That is one of the reasons we have switched to STOPTECH as our primary brake supplier. They use a power alloy compound in most of their discs and their disc for the Auto Base TL actually is a curved vane setup. So, all in all, the compound, design, coating and price are all better than ROTORA. So it was a no brainer.
#20
Yeah. I got these because of Josh's recommendation.
I got the other one installed. I can already tell without breaking them in that they bite more than stock stuff. I'll wait until midnight tonight to give them a thourough flogging. Then I'll report back on how they do.
I got the other one installed. I can already tell without breaking them in that they bite more than stock stuff. I'll wait until midnight tonight to give them a thourough flogging. Then I'll report back on how they do.
#21
Well. I got them all broke in. It's been a couple days so I can give an objective view. They squeal under light use as in stop and go traffic. I'm not one to care about that because they are after all performance rotors. Maybe some more breaking in. Today I gave it a good 65-0 panic stop on purpose to see how they would handle it. Let me say that these brakes have a hella bite! The car stopped way quicker than the stock rotors and pads. I felt like my head was going to pop off my shoulders. It was actually quite surprising that it stopped so quickly that I may not have given full effort to the stop. But still I am very impressed.
#22
Son of a bitch!!! I got the passenger side done with no problems. But I could not get the caliper bolts off of the driver's side. My first attempt was using a ratchet and socket with a 3 ft breaker bar. There was a loud pop and I broke the ratchet. All the little gears inside stripped. Then I tried another ratchet with a 3 ft breaker bar and used a jack to raise the bar. POP!! TWIST!! It twisted the little ratchet nub right off. Scratch another ratchet. Then I borrowed my neighbors 1/2" drive SnapOn ratchet, used it and the breaker bar with the jack applying the pressure. Nothing. It turned at least 40 degrees without busting the bolts loose. When I let the jack down it just returned to it's starting position.
I mean what the FUCK!!! That means there is more than 100 ft-lb of torque on both of those bolts. They've never been off since the factory.
It pissed me off so much. I'm still mad. Instead of trying to use an air gun on it myself I'm going to go to the dealership and let them do that side. Whenever a bolt is that tight that means the head is going to twist off or the threads are going to strip out if it is removed. So I'll let the dealership fuck it up getting the bolts out. That way if they do mess it up then they'll be responsible for replacing the caliper and bolts for free.
Has anyone ever had this problem taking the caliper off the car before?? It's a brembo caliper. It's not reverse threaded on the driver's side is it?? I was doing lefty loosey.
I mean what the FUCK!!! That means there is more than 100 ft-lb of torque on both of those bolts. They've never been off since the factory.
It pissed me off so much. I'm still mad. Instead of trying to use an air gun on it myself I'm going to go to the dealership and let them do that side. Whenever a bolt is that tight that means the head is going to twist off or the threads are going to strip out if it is removed. So I'll let the dealership fuck it up getting the bolts out. That way if they do mess it up then they'll be responsible for replacing the caliper and bolts for free.
Has anyone ever had this problem taking the caliper off the car before?? It's a brembo caliper. It's not reverse threaded on the driver's side is it?? I was doing lefty loosey.
yeah I had to use a lot lubricant and let it 'soak' in for a few minutes, and even after that I used a hammer with a breaker bar. The right side was easier b/c I could just step on the tire iron (it's 19mm, and so are the two bolts holding the caliper). And yes they are tight... 125 ft lbs to be exact (according to the service manual) compared to the back which are about 41 ft lbs (can't remember).
And was Stoptech acquired by Centric Parts or something? I just got mine and they came in a PowerSlot box?
#23
Oh and just to add:
My problem was the retaining screws... used an impact screwdriver (one whack tight to shake off the rust, and one or two whacks loose). I was only successful on two of the four retaining screws, and had to drill the other ones out.
My problem was the retaining screws... used an impact screwdriver (one whack tight to shake off the rust, and one or two whacks loose). I was only successful on two of the four retaining screws, and had to drill the other ones out.
#24
Yeah. I didn't bother trying to save those screws. I just drilled them out too since you don't need them anymore. And I sure wasn't about to spend any money on a new tool to only use it once. My boxes were the same as yours. They didn't say stoptech on them either. Maybe this is why the design was a little different.
#25
Well. The slight squeal in city traffic was driving me crazy. I did another break in period. This time I only did like a 8-10 minute cool down instead of 15min. before I started the final bed-in run. It made all the difference. Now the brakes are nice and quiet.
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