I installed my AEM CAI this afternoon after reading a LOT of posts on installs and CAI's in general. It's interesting how much clearer some of the posts become once you've gone through the install.

Anyway, a lot of people say they installed their CAI (mostly AEM) without removing the front bumper. After doing the install today, I can't imagine how it's possible. For one, the rivets that needed to be drilled out in the stock intake face the front of the car, not to mention that they are inaccessible from the rear because of there is plastic from the connecting pieces covering the rear side of the rivets (hard to explain). Second, I can't imagine trying to remove the stock tubing with the bumper still on. Even with it off it took awhile to get things completely free. I've done CAI and other installs on other vehicles so I'm fairly familiar with working on cars/trucks but I'm by no means an expert like some of those here. It was cold as hell, even in the garage, so I didn't exactly take the extra time to envision other ways of getting the job done.

I was going back through some posts after I had finished and it seemed like most of the install info was from people with Base TL's. I also watched the video in the 3G garage and there were definitely a couple differences in the removal of the stock intake. So, I was wondering if there were differences between the Base TL intake and the Type-S intake. Or, if there were changes made between model years. Anyone? Thanks.

Mods - I put this in the general forum since the actual question wasn't really dealing with the CAI. If it should go in the performance section feel free to move.

 

I installed my Fujita intake on my type-s without taking off the bumper.

 

What did you do to remove the rivets? I am looking at pictures of the stock intake (in this thread) and my Type-S intake (on the floor here) and the riveted connection is definitely different. I can see how on the Base intake the rivets could be drilled out from behind since there is nothing blocking the rivet. Unfortunately I don't have a picture of mine (yours being the same), but it's not the same as the base.

I realize it can be done without removing the bumper. For the most part, anything "can" be done.........like Al, and several following his lead, fitting the V2 in a TL.

 

News release doesn't identify any specific difference and most times, it there is a difference, they'll call it out.

http://www.hondanews.com/categories/735/releases/3747

Parts list & drawing for the intake resonator for the '07 TL-S and '07 Base look exactly the same.

 

Thanks Bearcat. I'm thinking the difference is between 04-06 and 07-08 models and not necessarily Base and Type-S.

 

The Parts search for the resonator chamber kit (the main middle box in the stock intake and connectors) show only '07/'08. Part number is 06172-RDA-305.

Same item, part # 17230-RDA-A00 covers all models '04 - '06.

 

I did as well...

All you need is an air chisel. Mine took about 15 seconds to pop off.

 

I'm with jweb12 on this one. I did the V2 install and there's no way I could have done that through the wheel well. You can't access the rivets from the rear on my stock air box, there are tabs that cover it. I'm on the road right now, but when I return home, I'll be sure to snap a photo of what I mean. Also, I needed some serious leverage to pull out some of those intake parts, and needed to do some twisting and wiggling, so IMHO, the bumper needed to come off.

But then again, maybe it has something to do with the 04-06 vs. the 07-08. There is a "U" shaped tube at the end of the intake that in all the videos and pictures I saw (which happened to be 04-06), just kinda sat there. On my car, it was bolted under the battery tray in the worst, most awkward way to detach that I eventually needed to take a halligan (giant firefighters pry bar) and pop that bitch out.

 

Just looked up the part numbers.

Chamber Assembly, Resonator
04-06
Part #17230-RDA-A00




Chamber Kit, Resonator
07-08
Part #06172-RDA-305

 

I removed my front bumper as well. For me, it would have been virtually impossible to remove all the intake innards without having the front bumper off.

 

I installed an AEM on an 05 TL 6MT two or three years ago for a friend at work w/o taking the bumper off, and I installed an AEM on my 07 TL-S 6MT right after I got it w/o taking the bumper off.

Just my

 

I use wire cutters and snip the back of the rivets... Trick of the trade rofl

 

Since I already had the bumper off I don't have a feel for how much room there is working through the wheel well. I guess I was thinking it would be hard as hell to get a drill in there but like other people have found, there are other ways to get the rivets out. I guess there are better ways to get the stock tubing out too since I couldn't have done it the way I did with the bumper on.

Anyway, seems like the answer to my original question is that there is a difference between the 04/06 models and the 07/08's regardless of base or type-s. Thanks for the scans mglax13.

Had a couple other questions on the install itself:

1. I noticed when securing the tube to the vibra-mount that the tube didn't reach far enough to fully seat on the throttle body. It covers enough to get the clamps engaged but you can't get the reducer sleeve up to the stop where the stock tube seated, not that it needs to be that far up. For now, I pulled the tube out a little extra from the reducer (still enough to make a good connection) so there was plenty of contact with the throttle body. I may add a few washers to the vibra-mount to take up some of this length difference so I can get the additional overlap at the reducer, but after reassembling everything, this may not provide enough clearance with the battery.

2. I didn't relocate the IAT sensor. Actually, the instructions that came with my AEM didn't even include the option like it seems like others have. I haven't determined if I'm going to do it yet or not, doesn't seem to be worth it. Anyway, I plugged the hole in the tube with the supplied bolt and o-ring. For anybody that did this, did the o-ring squeeze out when the bolt was tightened? I had to back it off to keep the o-ring in place so the bolt isn't very tight right now. Would it be ok to ditch the o-ring and just wrap the bolt threads with some teflon tape to make a good seal?

 

i did it through the wheel well and just sawzalled the elbow out... drilling out the rivets from that angle sucks... should have thought of Al's idea to just snip them off...

 

I screwed the bolt in just enough to squeeze the o-ring a bit, but not make it pop out. I think that should be sufficient to keep it in.

 

Wow dude just thinks he is superior cause he owns a type s🤣 intakes are the same is the box shape that changes a bit u can see the difference when removing the filter lol other than that where it’s riveted it’s the same 💩 I’ve removed a lot of stock intakes without removing the bumper regardless of model🤣 sounds like a skill issue on the op side

 

Your 1st post, and you bumped a 15year old thread, just to flame someone.

Get a life dude.

 

 

Wow, amazing. Hoping we could be as magnificent and skilled as you one day. Please stick around here and show us what else you can do