It's not a feeling. The throttle is more responsive. It doesn't generate any more HP but you will have actual full throttle when flooring the vehicle, whereas the factory will limit full throttle below certain speeds and sometimes at all speeds.

 

It's only an amplifier.. it amplifies the input so the response of SB with your foot to the floorboard won't be any different then without SB. WOT in non-WOT applications could compromise stability control.

 

not sure, but, if this is true and ur getting 100% throttle vs. 80-95%, then it should show up on a dyno graph such as the power coming in at a ealier RPM's or even higher overall HP's should be seen on a dyno, I do feel like my MPH is low for my times as if the throttle is not open 100% and on the dyno when my car peaked out the graph just whent straight across (flatlined), most cars peak and fall off, I guess the best thing to do is for someone to dyno there car without the intake boot and study the throttle plate angles

PLEASE NOTE, lots of cars do have this throttle angle problem but not convinced that Honda and Acura's have this problem

 

on a slight side note, where and how do you tighten the throttle cable on a 3G TL?

 

hmmm maybe... but i wouldn't call my CAI and P2R much mods... and i have a crisp response as you...

 

As with the CAI has a ears over matter sensation, so does the wallet over matter in this case. Gotta somehow justify the $300 it just cost for this mod.

 

This is a Drive By Wire car, you really don't adjust the throttle cable like you do on an older Honda/Acura to bring back the throttle response.

 

These 2 mods have already begun to open up the inlet side of the system, which in return will start to increase response. Exhaust side would really help, most notably the cat deletes, if you are in an area were it can be done (no emissions). I would much rather put the $300 toward a j-pipe or cat deletes then toward this. These will produce noticeable gains in power and increase throttle response.

 

Selling mine here: https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...5#post11368625

Need money for basement project.

 

If you do a j-pipe and cat deletes like I had, the Sprint Booster really makes a difference and changes the car into a totally different beast!

 

all the sprint booster does is close the gap required for the APP to send a certain voltage to the throttle...lets say, for a 50% open throttle, pedal has to travel half way down...with the booster, it does the same thing at a shorter pedal travel, which makes it seem as more responsive....in fact it isn't any more responsive at all...ur just simple opening the throttle more at any given pedal travel. you could have WOP now at minimal pedal travel...its like having a short throw shifter.

DBW still sucks as it lacks responsiveness...the throttle is still motorized...at stand still at idle...with my foot on the floor, i could throw it on the pedal, rev it, and my foot back on the floor, then the motor will rev...thats just pretty bad compared with direct cable throttle.... this is done to avoid sudden drivetrain shock...so rather than taking the sudden hit, it will be a bit more gradual...DBW is a lot more noticeable on the 6mt cars and it really fucking sucks...
i wish someone would've made a conversion kit, like they did on the VW... in all honesty, this sprint booster, doesn't really cure anything.

a DBW is still a DBW and a motorized throttle is still a motorized throttle, and the latter could never respond fast enough to your foot speed.

 

and once again, i will take opel's info as truth

 

on my 04TL 5AT, according to my datalogger my TPS is showing 78.8% while i'm @ WOT.
I was going about 140KPH.

 

If this item allows you to reach 100% throttle from the jump as opposed to simply 80%, wouldn't that shave off some time?

 

possibly?? im no expert but i did hear that cars like ours are not made to open the throttle to 100%, because opening to like 70% saves gives better gas mileage. don't quote me on what i just stated just reciting what i heard. if im wrong please post.

 

What Opel is trying to say is that the DBW speed is governed by the speed of the motor attached to the TB. This mod is simply changing the curve at which the motor is being told to open the butterfly so the same opening value as stock will result in less pedal travel with the mod.

What I take from that the motor can only react, open and close at a certain rate and can't be changed. If this mod actually changes the speed of the motor, then it would be more responsive.

The only other benefit I am reading is that it allows 100% opening of the butterfly vs 80% of stock, but no one has actually verified that from what I can see.

 

Didn't catch the edit in time....

I was going to add that it may cut off time based on the 100% vs 80% throttle opening if that is indeed true.

 

OK, I get all the amplifier observations - I'm an EE too. But...if you achieve 100% for the entire distance, as opposed to 80% through 100%, it would seem logical that the amplifier effect is working and it should shave time. I get that the HP has not increased, but if I race myself with the same car, and I floor it in one run and ease into it on another, the floored would seem to be faster, no? If what folks are saying is true and you can't get 100% throttle in a stock car, it seems it would work?

 

OK, I am thick no longer. Check out this whitepaper- perhaps one of the most impressive explainations with corresponding data. Bottom line for me: I'll spend the money on a CAI or other bolt-on...

http://www.peony888.com/VS/SprintBooster.pdf

 

awesome find! if it walks like a duck...

this confirms a point I've been mulling over a couple days with the Sprint Booster. All they claim is it quickens the response. I was pretty certain that there was no way it could open the throttle plate any more than the stock system by just wiring in an amplifier.

 

^ The whitepaper is linked on the first page. It's not complete but it reveals much about this device. I don't buy the 100% throttle argument. This system isn't a reflash of the pcm, it just changes the characteristics of the dbw signal. If putting the accelerator to the floor doesn't make the butterfly valve open up fully then no change in the characteristics of the signal will.

 

except one guy up above said his Data Logger only recorded like 78% throttle opening at WOT.

That does bug me but I feel like I'm getting everything from my engine when I floor it.

 

Unless there is something in the ECU that would prevent this, you should be able to just pull the tube off the TB and have someone floor it while you look at the butterfly (engine off).

 

you can't rev past 5.5k with the car standing lol...at least not on the 6MT
you'd have the be moving, or leave a camera running in there for a minute...
car just has to be rolling....unless u get someone to walk along with the car moving while the hood is open..looking at the butterfly...
now that's a funny sight..

but just jack up the front of the car and try

 

So you're saying that the actuator only works while the engine is running?

 

I remember reading that the throttle plate goes through a test on start up. Maybe when the key is turned to AC ON, it does a range of motion test.

one of the threads regarding "APP sensor" replacement talked about a way you can see if the buttefly plate is responding correctly to pedal movement with the engine off.

 

Remember this thread -
Resetting ECU makes me happy (click here)

I have been wondering if this "ecu reset" is recalibrating the throttle plate (to allow full motion). I looked in the Service Manual and was unable to find any info on this "ecu reset".

Just something to think about

 

I cant believe you guys are still even talking about this product. It accomplishes nothing you cant do yourself with your right foot. Unless you are ankle impaired....it would damn near be a waste of money IMO.

 

not trying to rain on the parade, but since i got the lightweight FW, i can't even tell there's throttle lag. however, the sprint booster is WAY cheaper than what u will have to go through.

 

^ What is FW ?

 

I'm guessing flywheel.

 

yep^

 

i think Spring Booster would be at the very end of my mods...and i mean THE LAST THING I'd do on the car

 

I'll put a NASCAR COT wing on mine first.

 

I agree.

From “Putting the TL on a diet”, page 4, post #152, dated 03-08-2007 -

 

I definitely agree.. [/thread]

 

would the mt SB be more aggressive than the AT SB for an AT tl?

 

i think we're all pretty much saying it's crap either way.

 

First of all, I have been into Hondas for a while and work on my own cars. Eventually I want a newer DD, as I have a 91 Accord M/T now. I have seriously been considering an 04-08 TL M/T in the near future and the only negative aspect I've heard about it is the DBW lag.

I heard of this forum, decided to check it out to see what people have done to counter this. I find this Sprinter Booster product, find this thread, have read through all the information initial pages. Honestly, before getting to the well written and documented whitepaper, I suspected these newer Hondas with DBW had some adaptive throttle system of course controlled by ECU. IMO, it is only logical, as an engineer why would you not want this electronic throttle control with the current direction of the automotive industry? The fact many companies are using this control only tells you there are several advantages. I also knew this vehicle has VSA, etc. and it only makes sense this is all entertwined. I have also read that Honda reprogrammed newer 3rd gen TLs to have less torque steer on the M/T models I believe and I now think it could be very well related to this concept.

Anyhow, thanks to the person that wrote the whitepaper, it confirmed my thoughts. I also appreciate the TBA (throttle body adaption) ECU reset procedure, it only makes sense this can be done. I find it very neat, the new technology.

I can't wait to get the TL and thanks for helping me make my decision on this Sprint Booster product.

 

I'm so skeptical that this sprint booster will actually do something for our cars.