RV6 V3 JPipe, PCDs and HFPCs Black Friday sale. Lowest prices of the year!
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MacKenzie001 (11-21-2013)
#3
Burning Brakes
iTrader: (1)
god damn that's tempting on the J-pipe. My current RV6 j-pipe is like 5 years old now and falling apart. I've been thinking about getting a new one for a year now. Damn tempting.
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#9
#11
Burning Brakes
iTrader: (3)
The part that gets damaged is the flex pipes from hitting things if you're low. If not its really not a concern, the RV6 J-pipe is going to give you better ground clearance over the stock J-pipe.
So if you're lowered and the stock pipe doesn't have a dent in it yet or hasn't scraped then you should be fine.
I've had the RV6 J-pipe on for about 1 1/2 years now and it's still fine, my flex portion is scraped up a bit though.
#16
Former Sponsor
Thread Starter
If you are lowered and scrape it will tear up the flex sections. Otherwise I have never seen a jpipe fail on its own. I have the very first v3 jpipe on my car and its doing fine even with all the salt we get here in Chicago.
#18
Burning Brakes
iTrader: (1)
I have 2 current issues with my jpipe
1) frayed flex pipe, which was mainly due to the fact that this particular j-pipe spent time on my '05 TL before I got my type-s, which had blown motor mounts, which translates into exhaust components absorbing engine movement. That's the fault of notoriously shitty TL engine mounts, not the RV6 j-pipe
2) There is actually a thin crack now in the flange that attaches to the rear pre-cat where the j-pipe tubing meets the flange - I haven't yet gotten a close look at it but it appears to be a crack in the weld. I can see light through it if I look top-down from the engine, though. That said, again I would not necessarily attribute this to RV-6; I'm working out some pretty severe bucking issues with the car right now due to my 3.7 throttle body, which caused one my rear PCD pipe to shear clean in half 7 months ago. It's entirely probable the minor crack in the weld on the j-pipe flange for the rear was due to that environment. Tons of strain was being put on that rear pipe.
This is what happened:
But Richie is totally awesome so when I called him, for just $100 he had his welder put together a customized PCD replacement for me with 3/8" steel bars bracing the pipe, as you can see here:
all the more reason to buy a kit from RV-6. You should have no worries about durability. The current versions of Richie's products have MUCH stronger welds than earlier ones, too. The design has been refined over the years.
#19
KingKong_Dav
i use to have the v3 jpipe and i sold it like a dumbass. i use to have the pcd and i sold that like a dumbass. im rocking v3 hfpc with CBex. i bought pcds n jpipe.neeed moar power
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jrleclerc88 (11-25-2013)
#20
Former Sponsor
Thread Starter
nah, it's a pretty durable product, for the most part. My particular car just has a sordid history with the j-pipe and PCD's - see below, lol.
I have 2 current issues with my jpipe
1) frayed flex pipe, which was mainly due to the fact that this particular j-pipe spent time on my '05 TL before I got my type-s, which had blown motor mounts, which translates into exhaust components absorbing engine movement. That's the fault of notoriously shitty TL engine mounts, not the RV6 j-pipe
2) There is actually a thin crack now in the flange that attaches to the rear pre-cat where the j-pipe tubing meets the flange - I haven't yet gotten a close look at it but it appears to be a crack in the weld. I can see light through it if I look top-down from the engine, though. That said, again I would not necessarily attribute this to RV-6; I'm working out some pretty severe bucking issues with the car right now due to my 3.7 throttle body, which caused one my rear PCD pipe to shear clean in half 7 months ago. It's entirely probable the minor crack in the weld on the j-pipe flange for the rear was due to that environment. Tons of strain was being put on that rear pipe.
But Richie is totally awesome so when I called him, for just $100 he had his welder put together a customized PCD replacement for me with 3/8" steel bars bracing the pipe, as you can see here:
all the more reason to buy a kit from RV-6. You should have no worries about durability. The current versions of Richie's products have MUCH stronger welds than earlier ones, too. The design has been refined over the years.
I have 2 current issues with my jpipe
1) frayed flex pipe, which was mainly due to the fact that this particular j-pipe spent time on my '05 TL before I got my type-s, which had blown motor mounts, which translates into exhaust components absorbing engine movement. That's the fault of notoriously shitty TL engine mounts, not the RV6 j-pipe
2) There is actually a thin crack now in the flange that attaches to the rear pre-cat where the j-pipe tubing meets the flange - I haven't yet gotten a close look at it but it appears to be a crack in the weld. I can see light through it if I look top-down from the engine, though. That said, again I would not necessarily attribute this to RV-6; I'm working out some pretty severe bucking issues with the car right now due to my 3.7 throttle body, which caused one my rear PCD pipe to shear clean in half 7 months ago. It's entirely probable the minor crack in the weld on the j-pipe flange for the rear was due to that environment. Tons of strain was being put on that rear pipe.
But Richie is totally awesome so when I called him, for just $100 he had his welder put together a customized PCD replacement for me with 3/8" steel bars bracing the pipe, as you can see here:
all the more reason to buy a kit from RV-6. You should have no worries about durability. The current versions of Richie's products have MUCH stronger welds than earlier ones, too. The design has been refined over the years.
I see you purchased another set
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