davewhodavedunn

I am interested in cooling down the temps in my engine as my TL is sluggish as hell when it is HOT outside.

Royal Purple offers purple ice, which can cool down temps...has anyone used this, and how do you use it on OUR 3g tl's? mix? or just straight add in?

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

I don't know this will work on the TL. I think these water wetter type additives are made for older cars. The TL uses a dual bypass design, meaning it's very efficent and is more than able to cool the engine. The thermostat really controls the temp.

Doing the ultimate cooling mod would yield a better result and is free.

Inaccurate

Yep, it's getting close to summer time. Time to bring the UCM thread out of it's winter hibernation.

The Ultimate Cooling Mod (click here)

davewhodavedunn

Ok....so do you know how to use royal purple purple ice? just dump it in to the rad?

I hate cars

Read Inaccurate's post above. You're barking up the wrong tree once again.

The thermostat regulates engine temp. I've watched my car on the scanner and it runs 198 degrees in the 110 degree summer and 198 degrees 30 degree winters. It has tons of reserve cooling capacity. Using this stuff will only lighten your wallet and potentially conflict with the chemistry of the stock coolant. Don't use it in a Honda product or in anything that is not having overheating issues.

Heat soak is the problem and that's completely independent of coolant temp. If you really want to go there, install a slightly lower temp thermostat. Only this will make the engine run cooler.

NCTL05

iTrader: (9)

I don't think a regular car would benefit from a water wetter. It doesn't make the coolant run any cooler. It just makes it more slippery. Basically reducing the friction between the radiator material and the coolant. Thereby allowing the coolant to circulate more smoothly. I would use this on a turbo car because the heat cycles can vary so much from one moment to the next.

WOT=hot fast
sit at a light=cooling down
Get to work and park the car=fans stay on until coolant temp. is normal
and blah, blah, blah...Anyways, the WW would be beneficial to the turbo car because heat hurts the performance of the turbos. Same reason people use turbo timers. To help cool the snails off. Most turbos are tied into the coolant circulation of the engine. The quicker they can cool down the better. This would also reduce the time the fans would stay on, which if you don't have switchable electric fans, can take some power from the charging system. This could be used if you have a water intercooled supercharger. If it's an air-air intercooler it doesn't matter cause those superchargers are internally oil cooled.

Then you have a regular N/A engine. Extreme heat cycles don't usually occur. There is no extra load on the engine it can't handle in stock form. No turbos and no superchargers. BTW I don't think this would even be beneficial for those with the CT supercharger since it's not water cooled. So I wouldn't even mess with the stuff.

davewhodavedunn

their has got to be a way to stop this engine from being so sluggish when it is hot out, it's ridiculous how different the engine is when its super hot. I have never driven a car where the performance of the engine alters so differently from hot to cool to cold.

I have the purple ice in my coolant now and I will let you guys know what I think.

Inaccurate

Temps for Ontario, Canada

Typical Low Temps in October = -1 C / 31 F
Typical Low Temps in November = 2 C / 35 F
Typical Low Temps in December = -6 C / 22 F
Typical Low Temps in January = -8 C / 17 F
Typical Low Temps in February = -7 C / 20 F
Typical Low Temps in March = -1 C / 31 F

Typical High Temps in March = 16 C / 61 F
Max High Temps in March = 24 C / 75 F

And you are feeling heat soak already

I am in Texas. We get plenty of 32 F mornings in Texas. So, I am familiar with how the TL performs in 32 F temps, which is fantastic.

However, you have *not* felt real power loss until you have driven your TL in 96 F and 100 F temps

Huge difference in the power loss between 75 F and 100 F.

The power loss with the UCM is nil. The power loss with the UCM is what any normal car would experience due to the thinner, hot air.

I got a new toy if anyone wants to compare oem temps with my UCM temps.


Fluke 62 Mini Infrared Thermometer (click here)

davewhodavedunn

ok so what else can I do to STOP this?

ggesq

iTrader: (1)

have you read post #3?

Timb227

iTrader: (3)

at this thread...

I hate cars

Wow, you really don't listen. You have a bad habit of asking advice and even though it's unanimous you still do whatever you feel like anyway. Once again:

THE THERMOSTAT REGULATES ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE!!!!!!!!!

How do you expect to lower the temperature more? It will not let you.

Inaccurate posted a link with every possible solution and I posted with the idea of a cooler thermostat which is the only thing that will actually lower coolant temps and you go ahead and pour this stuff in there. You better hope that it's free of silicates and compatable with the TL's waterpump or you're looking at a very large repair bill.

davewhodavedunn

I called royal purple and spoke to them regarding the royal purple ice. They know their shit, and if it ruins my car, they will fix it trust me.

I hate cars

That scenario depends on the particular car. If it has very good airflow but an undersized radiator it's going to run cooler while doing down the freeway.

If it has poor airflow and a good radiator it's going to run cooler while sitting in traffic.

WOT heats up many things quickly but the coolant isn't one of them. I haven't gotten mine to rise by more than 2 degrees driving the hell out of it. There's a lot of extra capacity and as soon as you drive it hard, the thermostat allows more water to flow for cooling.

Kind of....

Air to water intercoolers use a separate cooling system of their own. 198F engine coolant would not do a very good job of cooling the hot turbo air.

Water cooled turbos are tied into the engine's cooling system but this is the center (bearing) section which can run over 600 degrees. The real benefit of this design is not while the engine is running but after it's shut off. Any good system will run a small electric water pump to circulate engine coolant through the turbo after the engine is shut off. This prevents the heat trapped in the turbine side from migrating over and cooking the center section. In my experience if you don't run an electric water pump for shutdown use, the water left in the turbo quickly boils off.

What Water Wetter does in increase heat transfer by allowing you to run a lighter mixture of coolant vs water. There's talk that it also decreases the surface tension of the water allowing it to transfer heat better also.

Straight distilled water will always transfer heat better than water with coolant mixed in. However, we need coolant for below freezing temps, water pump lubrication, and corrosion inhibitors. Redline Water Wetter provides these other benefits (except for freeze protection) so you can run almost straight water and improve heat transfer between the engine and water and water and radiator.

In the TL's case, it has a great factory cooling system. My temps stay rock steady from freezing all the way to 110F summer days as verified by a scanner. 198 degrees with a +-2 degrees.

If the temp never goes above the thermostat and fan setpoints, there is nothing to gain by adding modifying it.


Please don't take anything I've said in a negative way, just trying to clear things up.

Dave's problem is heat soak, not coolant temps but I didn't bother writing about it because he doesn't listen to anything and the link to Inaccurate's solutions was already posted.

In addition to Inaccurate's solutions, a thermostat with a drop of 10 degrees would allow a significant difference in overall temps. However someone would have to be the guinea pig. It won't hurt the engine but there's a very small chance of it throwing a check engine light. I'm tempted to try this on mine when I do the timing belt in the coming month or so.

I hate cars

If you believe RP or Amsoil or any of these companies that offer a "warranty" if their products hurt your engine, I don't know what to say. As much as I like Amsoil, I've seen what happens when people make a claim. It's basically "not our fault" and that's the end of it. RP will do the same.

davewhodavedunn

I hate cars, are you saying this will happen to my car because I added royal purple ice, cuz it seems to be what your saying.

By the way I listen to everything everyone posts on here, as for iInaccurate's solution's, they may be ok for some, but I am not down with ripping apart my car to cut the heat soak...

I hate cars

I totally understand that. I won't rip mine apart either.

My only problem is you wasting money on this product. It can't help you because even if it did transfer heat better, the thermostat would just close up a little to make sure temps stayed the same.

For starters, remove the engine covers and put them away until winter.

Run a CAI.

Run a cooler thermostat. I'm currently doing the research right now. It looks like the TL already runs a pretty cool thermostat but I've found plenty of 10 and 20 degree cooler stats. I'm not willing to go 20 under because it can cause other issues but I'm definately going to try the 10 degree stat.

There's a good chance that you will regain some of this loss of power when all gas stations switch back to summer gas. Winter gas in the summer is a very bad thing.

Much of the power loss is due to detonation. Even though you can't hear the pinging, it's there and the computer pulls timing to protect the engine which causes the loss in power. In my other cars in the past I've had very good luck at reducing the pinging by going with a cooler thermostat. We'll see if it works with the TL.

I've already got a lot of data from the scanner on this car in stock form. Once it gets into the 100s I'll take it out again and see of the cooler thermostat makes any difference in detonation and power.

I hate cars

I forgot in my last post, the RP stuff is not going to make your engine blow up. But it can cause leaks, specifically at the water pump. It also has to be compatable with the materials used in your engine and cooling system. The TL and many Japanese cars in particular are a lot more sensitive to what you put in them.

davewhodavedunn

If I remove the plastic panels (which I just painted lol) and the underhood lining and trunk lining will this help? will it rust out?

also is this heatsoak normal for 04-08 tl's? I have read hundreds of threads on this and no one really knows how to solve it, what it is....

I hate cars

The TL really is worse than any other car I've driven from hot to cold. I've found the actual problem. It's detonation. Try running 100 octane unleaded to get rid of the detonation and you will feel the old power come back with the normal small loss for summer.

Don't bother with the trunk or hood lining, it won't make a bit of difference.

The plastic panels are just there for looks and a slight noise reduction. They quiet fuel injector tick but unless you're really paying attention you won't notice.

However, this will just prolong the amount of time it takes to get slow again. Inaccurate's solution of allowing more airflow is the only way to stop it from happening altogether.

I have a feeling a cooler thermostat is going to help a lot. I'll post back in a month or so after I do this mod with the pros and cons.

Keep in mind what you're feeling is nothing compared to those of us in 100+ degree summers. The difference from 85-105 is HUUUUGE. I have to give it 3/4 throttle just to keep up with normal traffic from a redlight.

davewhodavedunn

I pm'd you "i hate cars" with some more questions, as well as to see if you know anything about this j pipe?

NCTL05

iTrader: (9)

Can't wait to see what happens. What thermostats did you find?