Resonator, and mid muffler delete
#1
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Thread Starter
Resonator, and mid muffler delete
What are your views on mid muffler and resonator delete? Im looking for a mean sound even though my TL is just a completely stock 6spd. Will there be any cons to doing this?
#2
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iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by aznbo187
Compilation of all stages of exhaust resonator modification.
So I took the time and made this post so all of the new people don't have to go through 20 pages of discussion.
So far, there are 4 stages of this exhaust mod.
Stage 1.
Least noticeable in exhaust note increase.
Configuration:
Stock exhaust.
Remove mid-muffler. Replace with 2.5" straight pipe. Everything else remains stock.
Cost: Can be anywhere from $30-$60 w/aluminized pipping.
Stage 2.
A tad louder than stage one, a bit more pronounced tone.
Configuration:
Stock exhaust.
Remove mid-muffler. Replace with 2.5" straight pipe.
Remove stock resonator. Replace with Magnaflow resonator part# 10416.
Magnaflow resonator is a 14" long resonator, which dampens and changes the note of the stock exhaust a bit more, thus you get a bit more loudness/tone.
Cost: Magnaflow resonator costs around $60. Install ranges from $60 -$90 w/ aluminized pipping.
Stage 3.
(Tone result TBA)
Stock exhaust.
Remove mid-muffler. Replace with 2.5" straight pipe.
Remove stock resonator. Replace with Dynomax resonator part# WLK-24215.
Dynomax resonator is a 12" long resonator, which is a bit shorter and less dampening than the magnaflow resonator, thus it should give you a bit more loudness/tone than stage 2.
Cost: Dynomax resonator costs around $40. Install ranges from $60 - $90 w/aluminized pipping.
Stage 4.
Loudest setup out of all 3. Has a bit of a rasp, similar to M3 exhaust setup.
Stock exhaust.
Remove Mid-muffler. Replace with a 2.5" straight pipe.
Remove stock resonator. Replace with a 2.5" straight pipe.
Cost: Can be anywhere from $40 - $60.
Note: If you live in a climate that is prone to rain, snow, rust, Stainless steel pipping is highly recommended.
This also does not prevent you from passing smog, as it does not alter the characteristics of the catalytic converters, but it does not mean that this is street legal either as it does alter the stock setup of the exhaust.
Media.
Stage 1: Revving
Stage 1: Revving
Stage 2: Revving
Stage 2: Revving Pt.2
Stage 2: Inside Revving
Stage 2: Drive By
Stage 3: Windows Down Driving
Stage 3: Revving
Stage 3: Drive By 1
Stage 3: Drive By 2
Stage 3: 2007 TL-S all-in-one
Stage 4: Revving
Stock Exhaust Configuration.
Stage 1.
Stage2.
Stage3.
Magnaflow Resonator 10416
Dynomax Resonator WLK-24215
Good luck!
aznbo187
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toddy
Hope this helps. I labeled everything in Red for you
So I took the time and made this post so all of the new people don't have to go through 20 pages of discussion.
So far, there are 4 stages of this exhaust mod.
Stage 1.
Least noticeable in exhaust note increase.
Configuration:
Stock exhaust.
Remove mid-muffler. Replace with 2.5" straight pipe. Everything else remains stock.
Cost: Can be anywhere from $30-$60 w/aluminized pipping.
Stage 2.
A tad louder than stage one, a bit more pronounced tone.
Configuration:
Stock exhaust.
Remove mid-muffler. Replace with 2.5" straight pipe.
Remove stock resonator. Replace with Magnaflow resonator part# 10416.
Magnaflow resonator is a 14" long resonator, which dampens and changes the note of the stock exhaust a bit more, thus you get a bit more loudness/tone.
Cost: Magnaflow resonator costs around $60. Install ranges from $60 -$90 w/ aluminized pipping.
Stage 3.
(Tone result TBA)
Stock exhaust.
Remove mid-muffler. Replace with 2.5" straight pipe.
Remove stock resonator. Replace with Dynomax resonator part# WLK-24215.
Dynomax resonator is a 12" long resonator, which is a bit shorter and less dampening than the magnaflow resonator, thus it should give you a bit more loudness/tone than stage 2.
Cost: Dynomax resonator costs around $40. Install ranges from $60 - $90 w/aluminized pipping.
Stage 4.
Loudest setup out of all 3. Has a bit of a rasp, similar to M3 exhaust setup.
Stock exhaust.
Remove Mid-muffler. Replace with a 2.5" straight pipe.
Remove stock resonator. Replace with a 2.5" straight pipe.
Cost: Can be anywhere from $40 - $60.
Note: If you live in a climate that is prone to rain, snow, rust, Stainless steel pipping is highly recommended.
This also does not prevent you from passing smog, as it does not alter the characteristics of the catalytic converters, but it does not mean that this is street legal either as it does alter the stock setup of the exhaust.
Media.
Stage 1: Revving
Stage 1: Revving
Stage 2: Revving
Stage 2: Revving Pt.2
Stage 2: Inside Revving
Stage 2: Drive By
Stage 3: Windows Down Driving
Stage 3: Revving
Stage 3: Drive By 1
Stage 3: Drive By 2
Stage 3: 2007 TL-S all-in-one
Stage 4: Revving
Stock Exhaust Configuration.
Stage 1.
Stage2.
Stage3.
Magnaflow Resonator 10416
Dynomax Resonator WLK-24215
Good luck!
aznbo187
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toddy
Hope this helps. I labeled everything in Red for you
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/removing-resonator-stock-exhaust-summary-post-1-1811-a-589747/
Last edited by justnspace; 04-28-2013 at 08:12 PM.
#4
Drifting
mean sound get an aftermarket catback, if you are looking for cheap alternate, do stage 3 with 24215 dynomax resonator
#7
Drifting
^ no deleting a CAT will, not a resonator or muffler that is design specifically to deaden sound
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#12
Advanced
iTrader: (2)
I thought I'd throw in my ...
I did a Stage 3 (mid-muffler delete; Dynomax res) together with an RV6 V3 J-Pipe. I love the sound at start-up and idle (especially in a garage/parking garage). Under light throttle, it sounds a bit G35-like. Under moderate throttle, there is a bit of what I would call rasp. Under heavy throttle, it simply sounds great (the rasp comes in and then quickly goes away - seems to be centered on a certain RPM range, but I never took the time to check the RPM's when I hear the rasp). During normal driving (city and/or highway) there is no difference in sound inside the car.
One thing I always find ammusing when doing these mods (looks or performance related) is that I am always the one sitting in the car, so I never see or hear the car from outside. About a month ago, my wife was driving the car and I was driving her car. I was standing in the driveway as she pulled away (normal acceleration in a neighborhood). Even in these conditions, I couldn't help but smile - the thing just sounded downright aggressive and looked bad-ass to boot.
Hope this helps.
I did a Stage 3 (mid-muffler delete; Dynomax res) together with an RV6 V3 J-Pipe. I love the sound at start-up and idle (especially in a garage/parking garage). Under light throttle, it sounds a bit G35-like. Under moderate throttle, there is a bit of what I would call rasp. Under heavy throttle, it simply sounds great (the rasp comes in and then quickly goes away - seems to be centered on a certain RPM range, but I never took the time to check the RPM's when I hear the rasp). During normal driving (city and/or highway) there is no difference in sound inside the car.
One thing I always find ammusing when doing these mods (looks or performance related) is that I am always the one sitting in the car, so I never see or hear the car from outside. About a month ago, my wife was driving the car and I was driving her car. I was standing in the driveway as she pulled away (normal acceleration in a neighborhood). Even in these conditions, I couldn't help but smile - the thing just sounded downright aggressive and looked bad-ass to boot.
Hope this helps.
The following users liked this post:
tweeder82o (05-07-2013)
#13
oops is that your face?
iTrader: (3)
I thought I'd throw in my ...
I did a Stage 3 (mid-muffler delete; Dynomax res) together with an RV6 V3 J-Pipe. I love the sound at start-up and idle (especially in a garage/parking garage). Under light throttle, it sounds a bit G35-like. Under moderate throttle, there is a bit of what I would call rasp. Under heavy throttle, it simply sounds great (the rasp comes in and then quickly goes away - seems to be centered on a certain RPM range, but I never took the time to check the RPM's when I hear the rasp). During normal driving (city and/or highway) there is no difference in sound inside the car.
One thing I always find ammusing when doing these mods (looks or performance related) is that I am always the one sitting in the car, so I never see or hear the car from outside. About a month ago, my wife was driving the car and I was driving her car. I was standing in the driveway as she pulled away (normal acceleration in a neighborhood). Even in these conditions, I couldn't help but smile - the thing just sounded downright aggressive and looked bad-ass to boot.
Hope this helps.
I did a Stage 3 (mid-muffler delete; Dynomax res) together with an RV6 V3 J-Pipe. I love the sound at start-up and idle (especially in a garage/parking garage). Under light throttle, it sounds a bit G35-like. Under moderate throttle, there is a bit of what I would call rasp. Under heavy throttle, it simply sounds great (the rasp comes in and then quickly goes away - seems to be centered on a certain RPM range, but I never took the time to check the RPM's when I hear the rasp). During normal driving (city and/or highway) there is no difference in sound inside the car.
One thing I always find ammusing when doing these mods (looks or performance related) is that I am always the one sitting in the car, so I never see or hear the car from outside. About a month ago, my wife was driving the car and I was driving her car. I was standing in the driveway as she pulled away (normal acceleration in a neighborhood). Even in these conditions, I couldn't help but smile - the thing just sounded downright aggressive and looked bad-ass to boot.
Hope this helps.
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