RDX injector install.
05-26-2012, 03:19 PM
#1
RDX injector install.
I just installed the injectors. The car idles fine. I noticed the increase in post but when i took it to the highway at WOT it the car bgins to stumble at 5000 rpm. I checked the codes and i have pending all cylinder misfires and random missie codes. Any suggestions?
05-26-2012, 03:48 PM
#2
Three Wheelin'
You obviously disconnecnted the injectors..... Did you rest the ecu? Prior to starting the car?
In your other thread, I read that you experienced jerking at around 5krpm.. Did any other lights come on, such as vsa or abs? the reason i ask this is bcs the jerking happened around vtec engagement point. This usually happens when vtec fails to engage.
I'm thinking of something completely different, but if this happened, check your oil level.
Otherwise, try resting your Ecu and let the car run at idle for 10 min, with all accessories off
In your other thread, I read that you experienced jerking at around 5krpm.. Did any other lights come on, such as vsa or abs? the reason i ask this is bcs the jerking happened around vtec engagement point. This usually happens when vtec fails to engage.
I'm thinking of something completely different, but if this happened, check your oil level.
Otherwise, try resting your Ecu and let the car run at idle for 10 min, with all accessories off
05-26-2012, 04:07 PM
#3
I didn't try resetting the ecu yet. I let the car idle after I started it. I changed the oil right after I got done with the injectors. Should I just disconnect the battery drain the voltage then? That's how u reset it right??? Thanks for ur help again
05-26-2012, 07:48 PM
#5
Three Wheelin'
A scanner that can delete/reset codes would help but yea.
How does the car idle? any roughness? flashing cel means misfires, but what's causing them is more important. Keep an eye out and see what happenes. A scanner able to read freeze frame would be really good, to get a reading of other parameters when the CEL comes on.
How does the car idle? any roughness? flashing cel means misfires, but what's causing them is more important. Keep an eye out and see what happenes. A scanner able to read freeze frame would be really good, to get a reading of other parameters when the CEL comes on.
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05-27-2012, 05:15 PM
#13
you need to get your car tuned
yes but did they have the exact same setup? everyone's car is a little different.
simply put, you are not getting the most out of your current setup until you get it tuned.
I made somewhere around 30-40hp & 30-40ft/lbs more after a tune
simply put, you are not getting the most out of your current setup until you get it tuned.
I made somewhere around 30-40hp & 30-40ft/lbs more after a tune
05-27-2012, 05:17 PM
#14
and i read somewhere that you were contemplating installing the underdrive pulley?
don't do it, the smaller pulley under drives accessories (supercharger is an accessory)
someone tried it and had 0 lbs of boost, i don't remember his screen name, if i can find the thread i'll post it up
don't do it, the smaller pulley under drives accessories (supercharger is an accessory)
someone tried it and had 0 lbs of boost, i don't remember his screen name, if i can find the thread i'll post it up
05-27-2012, 06:55 PM
#15
Well thanks for all the help. I'm def not installing the.under drive pulley,iI checked to seen if I had installed the.injectors the right way n everything was just fine. I'm just gonna have to find the money to get it tuned n to get the fic,
One more question, do I have to remove the black box that came with the SC when I install the fic?
One more question, do I have to remove the black box that came with the SC when I install the fic?
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bigg_86 (05-27-2012)
05-27-2012, 09:34 PM
#18
??? RDX ???
Plz move this back to TL section.
Plz move this back to TL section.
05-28-2012, 10:35 AM
#20
Why would you upgrade the injectors and not tune your car?
It is not something simple like a intake.
If you still having problems; take off the injectors and put back the stock ones for now if you can't tune it yet.
Read this - http://www.rceng.com/faq.aspx
When do I need to upgrade the injectors for my car?
The factory fuel injection system operates slightly rich from the factory. Because of this, certain engine upgrades such as low restriction air intake/exhaust systems and/or slight increases in boost pressure can usually be taken care of by the factory fuel injection system.
When airflow increases are substantial and the factory injectors are unable to keep up, larger injectors and/or fuel pressure increases are required. The factory fuel injection system can usually accommodate an injector that flows about 15-20% more than stock without compromising the idle quality or the low RPM drivability. If the air flow increase/horsepower target requires an injector that exceeds a 20% increase over stock, there are several options.
1. Re-program the factory ECU specifically for the new larger sized injectors.
2. Add a piggyback fuel computer that will allow you to control the larger injectors.
3. Use a stand alone engine management system to control the larger injectors.
05-28-2012, 03:14 PM
#21
Unless your tune requires more than what the stock injectors can supply or you find that you are running the stock injectors in the upper duty cycle that may shorten their lifespan, it really doesn't make sense to put in larger injectors. The ECU is just going to lower the duty cycle as required to meet the A/F ratio that the ECU is targeting.
You might be better off going with the stock injectors until you get an FIC along with a wideband controller if you don't have one already.
You might be better off going with the stock injectors until you get an FIC along with a wideband controller if you don't have one already.
05-28-2012, 06:10 PM
#22
"Trees cause more pollution than automobiles do."
-Ronald Reagan
-Ronald Reagan
05-29-2012, 10:25 AM
#24
Why do you want them to do that since it is -
I just installed a TL spoiler on my RDX and my car is lagging like crazy - Seriously can someone please help or do I need someone to move this to the TL section since it is a TL spoiler install problems on a RDX?
I just installed a TL spoiler on my RDX and my car is lagging like crazy - Seriously can someone please help or do I need someone to move this to the TL section since it is a TL spoiler install problems on a RDX?
05-29-2012, 11:52 AM
#25
2008 Acura RDX
Join Date: May 2008
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If the injectors were installed in an RDX that would be relevant to this board!!
Since they are installed in a TL then it belongs in the TL section!!
Your TL spoiler was installed on your RDX, hence ok for RDX boards!
Why is this so hard to comprehend is beyond me.
Since they are installed in a TL then it belongs in the TL section!!
Your TL spoiler was installed on your RDX, hence ok for RDX boards!
Why is this so hard to comprehend is beyond me.
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IntactACK (11-19-2013)
05-29-2012, 12:29 PM
#26
lol - I hope you know I was being sarcastic. =P
05-29-2012, 03:00 PM
#28
06-03-2012, 07:47 AM
#30
Senior Moderator
03-16-2013, 06:47 PM
#31
Im having a similar issue In my 3G T....Car Idles fine and revs fine till 5k rpm, then feels like I hit an Invisible rev limiter. Check engine light flashes about 30 times, then light goes away. No other lights come on before, during, or after that time......At first codes were misfires on all Cylinders, Random misfire code, and P0443 EVAP Canister Purge Valve Circuit Malfunction. Then the motor was stock. Thousands of dollars later and now with a J36 built motor, only thing stock on it is the Intake Manifold, and fuel injectors. Fuel pump was last thing replaced, and still same issue......I dont mind waiting for a tune but im hesistant because i had the problem on the stock motor. I can really use any help offered....
08-24-2013, 10:42 PM
#32
Chapter Leader (NY/NJ)
iTrader: (10)
Bump.just replaced my spark plugs (2 step colder) and fuel injectors and getting the same 5k wall.. gonna install my JnR ecu to see if it goes away. Any other updates from other people?
08-25-2013, 02:17 PM
#33
Chapter Leader (NY/NJ)
iTrader: (10)
Figured out my problem. All injectors are wired wrong. Pin #1 should be the yellow/black wire. I had written it right and still wired it wrong... now i have to go back and re-pin all my Scion TC connectors. For the front head, the yellow/black is on the left towards passenger side and for the rear head, the yellow/black is to the right towards the driver side. Going to re-pin in a few. i'll update afterwards.
Last edited by InFaMouSLink; 08-25-2013 at 02:25 PM.
08-29-2013, 10:21 AM
#35
Chapter Leader (NY/NJ)
iTrader: (10)
Changed the wires around and still got the 5k wall. I also got P0172 P0175 which are rich on both banks.. I think its probably cuz of the new fuel pump putting out more psi than stock and when vtec kicks in, it doesn't like all that fuel. I had my girl read my torque pro while driving and when I hit the wall my computer was reading low 10 afr at the wall. Normal driving was around upper 14
08-29-2013, 12:12 PM
#37
Chapter Leader (NY/NJ)
iTrader: (10)
i have the purchased version of torque pro. do you? and i really dont know. I just added the gauge and thats what it showed. TP has to pick it from somewhere on the odbII in order to display it.
08-29-2013, 12:14 PM
#38
Race Director
iTrader: (1)
It should. But it's not exactly what I would call precise AFAIK
Thats the same one I have, I bought it from "aceplusgear" on Amazon. It seems big but its not in the way once its plugged in. I still bought a "Y" splitter for my OBD port so I can move the BT adapter up under the dash out of sight. I was gonna post a review on here but I forgot until I saw this thread again...
It works great so far (5 days), I only had trouble with it connecting once but I just had to go in settings and upair it, then unplug and plug the unit back in, then re-pair. My password was 1234. Most importantly, because of how the ECU is programmed, not all of the sensors work for the display gauges. I dont have fuel press, oil temp, EGTs, or oil press. It does however have AFR (not accurate at all though due to our O2 sensors), IAT, RPMs, coolant temp, fuel trims for bank 1 and 2, engine load %, boost/vac (dont know about accuracy), and a few more which are pointless. Ill put pics up later today if I get a chance, Im gonna go put my PCDs and J-pipe on
It works great so far (5 days), I only had trouble with it connecting once but I just had to go in settings and upair it, then unplug and plug the unit back in, then re-pair. My password was 1234. Most importantly, because of how the ECU is programmed, not all of the sensors work for the display gauges. I dont have fuel press, oil temp, EGTs, or oil press. It does however have AFR (not accurate at all though due to our O2 sensors), IAT, RPMs, coolant temp, fuel trims for bank 1 and 2, engine load %, boost/vac (dont know about accuracy), and a few more which are pointless. Ill put pics up later today if I get a chance, Im gonna go put my PCDs and J-pipe on
Last edited by maharajamd; 08-29-2013 at 12:20 PM.
08-29-2013, 12:19 PM
#39
Chapter Leader (NY/NJ)
iTrader: (10)
^ true but its better than nothing. Its picking it up from the computer so even though there is probably a good delay for a true reading, the ECU has had to have seen it at 1 point. when i got home i saw i could actually record and graph the AFR vs rpm. Been on a birthday bash so kinda busy right now. Still on vacation next week so i'll try then. I will be connecting my JnR ecu next week as well. Have to find that DIY without looking thru all 1000 pages of it.
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vietkid_2006 (08-29-2013)