well my 3.2 tl engine swap is complete. ive been driving around for a little over a week and my boost gauge is only reading 2-3psi in 1st and 2nd and i get an occasional 4psi in 3rd, but thats it. before the swap, my digital boost gauge always flashed between 4-5 in all gears. ive checked EVERYTHING on the SC and the intake manifold for any leaks, but cant find anything. it it feels a little weak in the top end.
how much boost are you SC'd guys getting with your tl's? or is this normal for a 3.2? i called comptech about this and they said thats average boost for this particular kit WTF?
how much boost are you SC'd guys getting with your tl's? or is this normal for a 3.2? i called comptech about this and they said thats average boost for this particular kit WTF?

ooopps double post. must have clicked it twice. how the heck do you delete your posts around here? can a mod please delete? thanx
ACCURATEin
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My defi boost guage reads max boost at 6.5 psi. My friend says defi's tend to read a little higher than normal.
...so you've noticed a power drop with the new motor?
...so you've noticed a power drop with the new motor?
Hello:
Boost on my 04Auto TL was 4lbs with normal pulley. Went to ProCats and boost dropped to about 3lbs.. when to HBP and now 5.8lbs on Dyno.. No boost gauge..
Also with Hondata reflash
Tim
Boost on my 04Auto TL was 4lbs with normal pulley. Went to ProCats and boost dropped to about 3lbs.. when to HBP and now 5.8lbs on Dyno.. No boost gauge..
Also with Hondata reflash
Tim
Quote:
Boost on my 04Auto TL was 4lbs with normal pulley. Went to ProCats and boost dropped to about 3lbs.. when to HBP and now 5.8lbs on Dyno.. No boost gauge..
Also with Hondata reflash
Tim
Originally Posted by k6biv
Hello:Boost on my 04Auto TL was 4lbs with normal pulley. Went to ProCats and boost dropped to about 3lbs.. when to HBP and now 5.8lbs on Dyno.. No boost gauge..
Also with Hondata reflash
Tim
you lost 1psi after installing the procats? interesting....
so do you think its possible going from 3.0 to 3.2 may have caused my boost to drop 2psi? thing is, i have procats too and i was boosting 4-5 consistantly with them before the swap.
Quote:
hmm.. its really hard to say. it definetely feels like it doesnt have the umf in the top end like it used to, but i could feel alot more torque in the low end. Originally Posted by ACCURATEin
...so you've noticed a power drop with the new motor?
i have an appoinment to get my car tuned a week from monday at church auto, but i dont want to waste my money if there is something causing my car to loose boost. my a/f is running a little lean since the swap, but i expected that with the bigger displacement.
i cant understand why comptech told me that boosting 3psi was normal for this kit? if that were the case, why advertise 4-5??
anyways, i have to get to the bottom of this, even my supercharger doesnt sound as wicked as before.
Hello:
ProCats installed by Shad Huntley, at Driving Ambitions. As you may know, he worked at Comptech and did much of the development of the SC.
Dyno was also done at his place, before the Procats and after.
Although the car lost boost, it ran much better with less back pressure.
I think Hondata may have one more reflash before it's all done.
At this time, torque in low end is great. WHP is a little less than before, but the ran runs great. NO CEL....
And much better gas mileage, about 26 mpg on highway.
Tim
ProCats installed by Shad Huntley, at Driving Ambitions. As you may know, he worked at Comptech and did much of the development of the SC.
Dyno was also done at his place, before the Procats and after.
Although the car lost boost, it ran much better with less back pressure.
I think Hondata may have one more reflash before it's all done.
At this time, torque in low end is great. WHP is a little less than before, but the ran runs great. NO CEL....
And much better gas mileage, about 26 mpg on highway.
Tim
I have car ADD
hey blusap, congrats on the swap. sounds awesome....
usually i tell people to ask you for advice , since u know alot of shit..
if im not mistaken, you have a custom made J-Pipe? 2.5 mandrel bend? maybe try your stock J pipe with the new motor... i think this may have some type of relation to loss of back pressure.... also, try different pullies. HBP, UR or OEM and see the differences... + im sure you need a good tuning with the new swap, that may fix your problems as well..
good luck with the new motor. cant wait to see some #'s
usually i tell people to ask you for advice , since u know alot of shit..
if im not mistaken, you have a custom made J-Pipe? 2.5 mandrel bend? maybe try your stock J pipe with the new motor... i think this may have some type of relation to loss of back pressure.... also, try different pullies. HBP, UR or OEM and see the differences... + im sure you need a good tuning with the new swap, that may fix your problems as well..
good luck with the new motor. cant wait to see some #'s
Quote:
usually i tell people to ask you for advice , since u know alot of shit..
if im not mistaken, you have a custom made J-Pipe? 2.5 mandrel bend? maybe try your stock J pipe with the new motor... i think this may have some type of relation to loss of back pressure.... also, try different pullies. HBP, UR or OEM and see the differences... + im sure you need a good tuning with the new swap, that may fix your problems as well..
good luck with the new motor. cant wait to see some #'s
Originally Posted by BLACKURA_NY
hey blusap, congrats on the swap. sounds awesome....usually i tell people to ask you for advice , since u know alot of shit..
if im not mistaken, you have a custom made J-Pipe? 2.5 mandrel bend? maybe try your stock J pipe with the new motor... i think this may have some type of relation to loss of back pressure.... also, try different pullies. HBP, UR or OEM and see the differences... + im sure you need a good tuning with the new swap, that may fix your problems as well..
good luck with the new motor. cant wait to see some #'s
thanks
the swap turned out great. just have to work out a few bugs
i sold the custom one i had to ussi and im using the stock jpipe right now. im starting to think, maybe this is the normal boost levels for the 3.2.. ive yet to hit 5psi since the swap
312 HP 271 TQ Dynapack
My '06 5AT TL peaks at 6.4 psi. with stock exhaust, e-shift pro cats, and normal pulley. I understand that a high flow exhaust & j-pipe can drop pressure about 2 psi.
Since u still got the exhaust, I think your numbers are OK, IMO.

Since u still got the exhaust, I think your numbers are OK, IMO.

6th Gear
Quote:
usually i tell people to ask you for advice , since u know alot of shit..
if im not mistaken, you have a custom made J-Pipe? 2.5 mandrel bend? maybe try your stock J pipe with the new motor... i think this may have some type of relation to loss of back pressure.... also, try different pullies. HBP, UR or OEM and see the differences... + im sure you need a good tuning with the new swap, that may fix your problems as well..
good luck with the new motor. cant wait to see some #'s
I have a supercharged 04 TL 3.2 engine in my 04 Accord as well and I max out at 5.5psi with the high boost pulley. With the Accord 3.0 engine, I was hitting 6.3psi with the stock pulley. I don't have procats or custom J-pipe so I'm also wondering why the 3.2 would cause such a drop in psi? I was expecting to see 7-8psi with the high boost pulley.Originally Posted by BLACKURA_NY
hey blusap, congrats on the swap. sounds awesome....usually i tell people to ask you for advice , since u know alot of shit..
if im not mistaken, you have a custom made J-Pipe? 2.5 mandrel bend? maybe try your stock J pipe with the new motor... i think this may have some type of relation to loss of back pressure.... also, try different pullies. HBP, UR or OEM and see the differences... + im sure you need a good tuning with the new swap, that may fix your problems as well..
good luck with the new motor. cant wait to see some #'s
Dyno at Church Automotive
288.6HP
261.3TQ
Quote:
Since u still got the exhaust, I think your numbers are OK, IMO.
Originally Posted by mrlunecy
My '06 5AT TL peaks at 6.4 psi. with stock exhaust, e-shift pro cats, and normal pulley. I understand that a high flow exhaust & j-pipe can drop pressure about 2 psi.Since u still got the exhaust, I think your numbers are OK, IMO.
is there a thread i can view your hp + tq numbers? my appt at churches is a week from monday, but might go a little earlier if i can get the time off. even though your auto, i still wanna compare my #'s with yours since i will be using the stock pulley too.
you have hondata right? what were your final #'s?
312 HP 271 TQ Dynapack
yeah, my "hondata reflash" thread;
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ondata+reflash
only mods on the car at the time were s/c, pro cats, & reflash
the charts read 6700 rpm at the top end, but that's a preset value on the charts. The rev limit actually hits at 7200 rpm
294 HP and 260 tq
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ondata+reflash
only mods on the car at the time were s/c, pro cats, & reflash
the charts read 6700 rpm at the top end, but that's a preset value on the charts. The rev limit actually hits at 7200 rpm
294 HP and 260 tq
Racer
Boost is made when you flow air through a restriction.
The more boost you have, the more cork you have in the system.
If you went from a 3.0L engine to a 3.2L engine and no other changes were made and boost dropped off, then that makes sense to me. Boost dropped off since the blower has to fill more space. Volumetric efficiency changed.
If you have a high flow exhaust system and boost dropped off, then you're doing good.
The key to P/D Eaton blowers is to check the vacuum at the throttle body and just before the supercharger inlet. You want to allow the best possible flow to the inlet of any Eaton supercharger. Open the inlet to the blower and boost will go up.
k6biv,
Also more boost means more heat.
A-Train
The more boost you have, the more cork you have in the system.
If you went from a 3.0L engine to a 3.2L engine and no other changes were made and boost dropped off, then that makes sense to me. Boost dropped off since the blower has to fill more space. Volumetric efficiency changed.
If you have a high flow exhaust system and boost dropped off, then you're doing good.
The key to P/D Eaton blowers is to check the vacuum at the throttle body and just before the supercharger inlet. You want to allow the best possible flow to the inlet of any Eaton supercharger. Open the inlet to the blower and boost will go up.
k6biv,
Quote:
Although the car lost boost, it ran much better with less back pressure.
BINGO! You don't want boost you want c.f.m. air flow. The more air flow you have versus just boost, the more potential power you can make.Although the car lost boost, it ran much better with less back pressure.
Also more boost means more heat.
A-Train
Quote:
The more boost you have, the more cork you have in the system.
If you went from a 3.0L engine to a 3.2L engine and no other changes were made and boost dropped off, then that makes sense to me. Boost dropped off since the blower has to fill more space. Volumetric efficiency changed.
If you have a high flow exhaust system and boost dropped off, then you're doing good.
The key to P/D Eaton blowers is to check the vacuum at the throttle body and just before the supercharger inlet. You want to allow the best possible flow to the inlet of any Eaton supercharger. Open the inlet to the blower and boost will go up.
k6biv,
BINGO! You don't want boost you want c.f.m. air flow. The more air flow you have versus just boost, the more potential power you can make.
Also more boost means more heat.
A-Train
ahh, makes sense. we'll see what happens on dyno day.Originally Posted by Atrain
Boost is made when you flow air through a restriction.The more boost you have, the more cork you have in the system.
If you went from a 3.0L engine to a 3.2L engine and no other changes were made and boost dropped off, then that makes sense to me. Boost dropped off since the blower has to fill more space. Volumetric efficiency changed.
If you have a high flow exhaust system and boost dropped off, then you're doing good.
The key to P/D Eaton blowers is to check the vacuum at the throttle body and just before the supercharger inlet. You want to allow the best possible flow to the inlet of any Eaton supercharger. Open the inlet to the blower and boost will go up.
k6biv,
BINGO! You don't want boost you want c.f.m. air flow. The more air flow you have versus just boost, the more potential power you can make.
Also more boost means more heat.
A-Train
hey Atrain, my chargers whine is noticably quieter too. would the lower boost levels be causing this also? cause it doesnt sound loud like it did when i was 3.0
csmeance
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I doubt that the lower boost would cause this. boost is related to the amount of air filled, less air to fill, the more boost. the RPM of the blower is the same. Did you use a high boost pulley on the 3.0 or are you using it on the 3.2? check the blower oil too.Originally Posted by blusap
hey Atrain, my chargers whine is noticably quieter too. would the lower boost levels be causing this also? cause it doesnt sound loud like it did when i was 3.0
Quote:
Originally Posted by csmeance
I doubt that the lower boost would cause this. boost is related to the amount of air filled, less air to fill, the more boost. the RPM of the blower is the same. Did you use a high boost pulley on the 3.0 or are you using it on the 3.2? check the blower oil too.
ive always had the stock pulley, so it is spinning the same rpm. what i was thinking since the engine is bigger, their is less pressure in front of the blower, making it sound quieter.
as for the oil, some say that it never needs to be replaced, unless theirs a leak and ive also heard every 10k, 20k, even 70k.
i havent had a chance to look at the oil yet, but i should. im going about 22k on my supercharger.
csmeance
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Quote:
as for the oil, some say that it never needs to be replaced, unless theirs a leak and ive also heard every 10k, 20k, even 70k.
i havent had a chance to look at the oil yet, but i should. im going about 22k on my supercharger.
hold on a second, i might be wrong, the boost could make a difference with the blower whine. A gettho hypothesis is that the more boost, the more back-pressure on the blower, more back-pressure, louder whine.Originally Posted by blusap
ive always had the stock pulley, so it is spinning the same rpm. what i was thinking since the engine is bigger, their is less pressure in front of the blower, making it sound quieter.as for the oil, some say that it never needs to be replaced, unless theirs a leak and ive also heard every 10k, 20k, even 70k.
i havent had a chance to look at the oil yet, but i should. im going about 22k on my supercharger.
Quote:
now that i have about 600 miles, the ecu finally adjusted itself and the top end felt like it came back, whle the bottom end definetly has more torque. my a/f right now is reading a little lean so i havent really stomped on it for long periods of time. Originally Posted by lookinco
so overall did your car get faster or slower?
im going to get it tuned at church auto next monday. ill compare my dyno sheets and see exactly how much power .2 more displacement gave me. i have a feeling i gained a bit more hp, but i know i gained at least 25 more tq. its got some nutz in the low end.
Quote:
Originally Posted by csmeance
hold on a second, i might be wrong, the boost could make a difference with the blower whine. A gettho hypothesis is that the more boost, the more back-pressure on the blower, more back-pressure, louder whine.
ya thats what i was thinking too. sort of like a shop vac, when it is blowing out, cover the hole with something and the motor gets louder since its working harder.
B A N N E D
next monday.....damn i am in SoCal right now but leaving next monday, or else I could come and check out your car at church. What are you tuning your car with? Is it E-manage ultimate?
ya, i have the emanage ultimate. BTW, what time are you leaving monday? cause my appt is at 10am.




