InFaMouSLink

iTrader: (10)

put them on photobucket or something like that free webhost

acroNtypeS

gotcha thanks!

acroNtypeS

stock exhaust, atlpjpipe, richiesracepipe+precatdelete+injenintake
videos arent that good sorry about that hope u guys enjoy!


http://s479.photobucket.com/albums/r...t=P2100004.flv




http://s479.photobucket.com/albums/r...t=P2100005.flv

acroNtypeS

This one put your speakers up cant really hear it


http://s479.photobucket.com/albums/r...t=P2100005.flv

BLACKURA_NY

iTrader: (6)

where on LI are ya? looks like the northern state parkway behind you... i think i've seen your car at LA fitness once or twice

NedShneebly

acroNtypeS,

video's never fully tell the story as far as sound goes but I heard mostly intake with a bit of a growl, which is all I could hope for with all the RV6 products on stock exhaust. Maybe do a recording from inside the cabin with some rev's and WOT runs.

stillhere153

iTrader: (1)

actually the neutral rev's was wat i was talking bout shit sounds straight fire

CHiNaMaN440

iTrader: (1)

That sounds really good. All I need now are precats to achieve that sound

Sonnick

Yea that does sound good. I need PC deletes ugh

Where on LI are you? I'm off exit 37 on the LIE but am in the Amityville/Copiague area a lot too.

greco9885

iTrader: (1)

^I live in amityville and always around

Sonnick

^^ Oh awesome. When I come home next we should meet up

NedShneebly

Installed RV6 Triple Threat and UR Crank Pulley yesterday. Pre-cats/J-pipe/Test Pipe took about 3 1/2 - 4 hours with help of a rented lift, but I read a lot and had assembled tools days prior. Small, lady-like hands would have made half of this job much easier. O2 Sensor brackets and leads were not a fun way to start the job and the last reat cat heat shield bolt and wriggling that sucker out took a lot of attacks from the top and the bottom.

Crank pulley was much easier this time with the help of a 3 ft lead breaker bar (plus pulley tool). Only suck part of that was when the serpentine belt slipped off a couple pulleys and we sat there like a couple chimps trying to solve an algebra problem before some dude that is working on "putting a rear mounted turbo on a 3.5L TL" routed it in 2 seconds. Kid was totally full of crap but saved our butts.

By the way, never heard it mentioned but the weight savings of gutting the factory exhausts components is insane. After putting all the stock stuff back in the box of RV6 parts, I almost pulled a testicle not expecting how much heavier the box had become. The only heat shield involved with this job that I left on was the main exhaust shield that runs down the spine of the car.

Tone is perfect. Wife won't even notice but I hear the faintest growl when I press the angry pedal now. It's civil enough that I'm ready to straight pipe the 3rd muffler and factory resonator. There is some slight off idle rasp/drone and in the higher rpm it sounds like she's thank you for unlocking her inner demon. Can't say much about quickness yet since I had 200 lbs of parts and tools in my trunk but, a few blasts from rolling stop and I can feel her scrambling to keep my 245/35/19's planted. Very nice, Rich!

alexSU

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the pics and write up! Sounds like it was well worth the money and effort Enjoy it!

NedShneebly

For the DIY'ers, heed Stillheres warning about sliding a piece of cardboard between the passenger fan and radiator. I did so without question and then saw exactly when I probably would have punched a hole right through that thing!

Also, I installed all the O2 sensors on the pre-cats before bolting them on to the manifold, except for the front lower sensor, which blocked us from snaking it into it's resting place.

Be patient with the all the sensor leads and jumper plugs. My pops and I have fat fingers and the little clip release levers are obviously made for another race of humans to manipulate. The jobs starts off smooth with basic removal of crap to get at the cats and then you start messing with all the electrical leads. Maybe their just my kryptonite, but I fricken hate these plugs and I have broken plenty in the past. And both of the upper O2 sensor jumper plugs *must* be removed from their bracket holding them in place before you can actually disconnect the lead. If you breezed over this line in the DIY, you could easily find yourself breaking out the blow torch to go midevil on a stupid plastic connector.

I'll post more pointers as I remember them.

acroNtypeS

can u put up a sound clip very curious with the resonator 3rd cat.

InFaMouSLink

iTrader: (10)

Looks real GOOD. i still have mine sitting in the box rv6x3 and pulley. i'll get to it one day. i saw stillhere install acron precats and totally understand the cardboard as well. WELL NEEDED!!!

Good install. have fun!

pffpffpass

iTrader: (2)

Heyyyy!! Ned!!

You installed the exact same thing I did!!! Cheater!!!

But I feel you on the plastic plugs that hold the o2 sensors.. NOT FUN.. but doable..
You will feel a big difference in about 200 miles or soo.. I didnt believe the hype about resetting the ECU.. But after 400 miles I can absolutely feel the difference between the first drive I took..

About Deleting the midmuff & Resonator I would not recommend it.. It produces a very noticable rasp from 2-3k which is VERY annoying.. I was kinda embarrassed it was so loud.. Thats what I had when I first installed my parts, then I traded another member for his stock exhaust and all rasp went away.. Now sounds just like your car I assume.. So if you want the sleeper look/sound stick with all stock exhaust for now..

I will until I get my ATLP base..

alexSU

iTrader: (3)

I have that right now sometimes it is embarrassing cuz it sounds like you have a tin can instead of a real exhaust hopefully with a few more mods I can have it sounding deeper

NedShneebly

I have a 2 year old and a 3 month, so won't promise anything soon but I'll try.

Pff, didn't you have an aftermarket exhaust at first? I'm thinking about straight piping the stock mid resonator and mid muff but keeping the stock exhaust. Did you have this setup, too? I definitely am not an attention grabber and I don't want my fillings falling out of my teeth when driving at highway speeds. Might not take the gamble.

NedShneebly

So you have full RV6 package --> straight pipe where stock mid muffler and stock resonator were --> stock rear muffler packs? Also, do you have the resonated ('test pipe') or non-resonated ('race pipe') 3rd cat delete?

I guess I was surprised at how minimal the note changed that I could squeeze a few more ponies out with running straight pipe the rest of the way, but I don't want to sound like a rusted out Pinto rolling down the street.

*UPDATE* It was noted in one of the other threads but had my 1st true cold start this morning. Sounded like a handfull of pennies rolling out of the manifold and down the pipes...Nasty - briefly thought I'd screwed up but it went away in less than 30 seconds. ULEV cold start logic strikes again. 4.0 after that.

alexSU

iTrader: (3)

No, I don't have the RV6 package, just the mid-muffler deleted and resonator deleted. I think with a full RV6 package the raspy sound will disappear somewhat...hopefully

MobTownTL

iTrader: (1)

how much do you think an install like this will cost you if you bring it into a shop and will it be worth it? dont want to risk anything since i've never messed with my car like this

anarchy[sear]

iTrader: (1)

Yeah PFFPFF's car was really raspy with the race pipe,richies jpipe and pre cat deletes. But without all those other mods his setup sounds really nice on my car. Thanks again for the set up.

greco9885

iTrader: (1)

Probably 2 hours at their labor rate. They don't go by realtime, they go by AEM's(or manufacturer of product) install time

pffpffpass

iTrader: (2)

They will charge you an arm and a leg..

Prob around 500ish..

Anarchy(Phong) good lookin on your exhaust..

Car sounds really good now.. And pulls hard!!

Rick_TL-S

Depends on the shop. A muffler shop quoted me $50, but the shop thought my TL was some kind of 350Z before they saw it.
Jotech, though, priced me $95/hour and I talked them down to $65.

Ended up having my buddy come & do the pipes instead.

greco9885

iTrader: (1)

LOL no way. $500 = 5 hours of labor, install book time is 2 hours, real time, more like an hour

for $500, they better detail your car, drive you to the guys house, so you can fuck his wife while he installs the intake

anarchy[sear]

iTrader: (1)

Well if your doing precats and all the way back they will probably charge you a crap load of money

Rick_TL-S

Well, of course. Doing a full exhaust system all at once isn't cheap, but I don't think it should really cost more than $300.

greco9885

iTrader: (1)

precats, jpipe = 4 hours
catback = 2 hours
aem = 2 hours
pulley = 2 hours
total = 10hours = ~1000.

my install took 10 hours

alexSU

iTrader: (3)

NedShneebly

A couple guys got quoted from dealers and competent shops in the $90-150 range for the cats and j-pipe. A good shop wouldn't need more than 2 hours labor.

1st time install of pre-cats and j-pipe should be in the 5-6 hour range, if you study before hand and get your tools together prior. I'm just a backyard mechanic and my dad can usually unfuck whatever I'm stuck on, but with the lift and about 3 months of drooling over these posts it was a legitimate 4 hour job. You'll spend a quarter of that on the last fricken bolt on the year cat heat shield.

if you can get the leverage and a long breaker bar on the pulley, that is seriously like a 30 minute job. Ned's Tip: study, draw or have a diagram of the serpentine belt alignment before you loosen the tensioner pulley to get the belt of the crank!

CAI...yeah, removing all that factory junk was a chore but don't remove the front bumper. All you have to take off is the weather guards in the wheels well and under the front left bumper.

TLAdvanced

iTrader: (4)

I installed my precat deletes tonight. I already had ATLP J-pipe, RV6 test pipe, stage 3 exhaust mod and stock Type-S cat-back. I have a VERY annoying rasp. I guess I need to put the stock resonator back in...

NedShneebly

bummer, man. I don't want to be annoying to other people or myself. But I think my next grand laying around will have to go to the new ATLP base exhaust.

pffpffpass

iTrader: (2)

I told you guys that was gunna happen!!!! Stage 3 + precat deletes = rasp..

TLAdvanced

iTrader: (4)

You think I'll be ok replacing the Dynomax with the factory resonator?

tl2slow

iTrader: (5)

i just put mine in, it sounds great with stock exhaust. but when the car is cold i get a lil buzzing sound???? and did anyone have fitment issues with the j pipe...it didnt line up with the cat deletes or the stock ones....whats up with that...but it still pulls hard as hell now....

TheBadS

This thread is awesome. Thanks to everyone that has given input of all your expierences! ive been studying the hell out of this forum.

So pretty much what you guys are saying is if you install the RV6 Pre cat deletes, atlp jpipe,atlp high flow, and all stock exhaust from highflow cat back it will sound great with NO rasp? Do you guys have any problems with check engine lights?? Also any problems with local acura dealers for taking out the pre cats?

I'm torn between doing the PCD+jpipe+highflow cat+stock exhaust, OR stock cats up top, j pipe, highflow cat and atlp quad exhaust when it becomes available. I know the pcd route will prevail best gains. and the other route might be alittle more sound friendly? tell me if im wrong guys, im VERY new to the V6 scene.

How does it sound with PCD all the way back into a atlp quad exhaust? havent heard u guys mention much about that?

Thanks

gerzand

iTrader: (3)

I see how/why you are debating between these two setups.

However, the first thing to keep in mind is the striking difference in the decibel level both IN and OUTSIDE of he cabin with an ATLP quad compared to stock catback with PCD's/Jpipe/HFC. For some people there are reasons which a louder exhaust wont work for them. It all depends how agressive and you want your car to sound on the street/in your neighborhood/ or possibly with family and kids in the car with you. With retaining the stock PC's and using a high flow cat, you wont have rasp but the car is going to be LOUD (even when the exhaust is broken in after ~500 to 100 miles)...... so if you want a relatively tame sounding car, but SOME performance.....go for the PCD+stock catback solution.

Otherwise go all out

1FAST_TL

this weekend i pulled out my cats and cleaned them, it tooks me about an our and half to put them back again so it tooks me about 2 hours for the all thing 2 person, dont spend money in a shop do it youself its really easy, and you learn about what you have, im also installing tomorrow the evo2 exaust, and ur pulley, aint paying no shit to any shop.